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In casing mixes, hydrated lime gives an immediate ph correction, and it lasts as long as the average casing lasts. I use one teaspoon of hydrated lime per cup of peat in my 50/50 casing mixes, along with a tablespoon of gypsum per cup of peat. The gypsum, which contains both calcium and sulphur, helps to moderate the hydrated lime. I have never, and I repeat never had problems with using hydrated lime. It is what I recommend over calcium carbonate due to it's very fast acting properties. If one can't find hydrated lime, then use pickling lime/calcium carbonate. But, in my opinion, it's a second choice, not the first.
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Ok, we must be talking about totally different types of hydrated lime here. What EXACTLY are you and Stamets using? If it's so advanced, why is it not mentioned in his texts? One teaspoon of what I have per cup would drive the pH to 10+ for days if not weeks, surely killing everything eventually. You say hydrated lime? I have 98.5% pure calcium hydroxide (aka hydrated lime). It's called CODEX Hydrated Lime and is manufacturered by the Mississippi Lime Company. Here is a specifications sheet:
http://www.mississippilime.com/produ...4&tabsetting=2
Now, I know exactly what I was using, and I know for a fact that you cannot use a teaspoon per cup. Now what where you and Stamets using? Do you want me to do an experiment to tell you how many weeks the casing pH remains above 9.0 using a teaspoon per cup of the hydrated lime I have? I am willing to do it. My guess would be at least a month before enough was converted to calcium carbonate to bring the pH back down to 9.0.
I am not saying it can't be used. I HAVE used it, but I was really careful with it. I also found the pH holding ability to totally suck compared to calcium carbonate. If you are shooting for one or two flushes, though, it probably doesn't matter.
PS - Oh and pickeling lime is hydrated lime. It's very close to pure hydrated lime too (over 98%).