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  • Go Back   Mycotopia Web Forums > Board Discussions > Botanicals Cactus & Misc. Entheogens & Psychedelics

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    Old 05-01-08, 22:06   #1 (permalink)
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    Ideal Conditions & Solvents for DMT A/B extraction

    A FOAF wants to know ideal conditions/solvents for educational purposes. Think outside of Home-Depot and household solvents. FOAF has accessibility to research-grade solvents.

    First, in acidic bath, what is the optimal pH?
    Second, for defatting, what is the ideal solvent?
    Third, for basic bath, what is the ideal pH?
    Fourth, what is the ideal nonpolar solvent to extract from basic aqueous solution?
    Fifth, what is the ideal solvent/method for recrystallization?

    Please don't limit FOAF's choices from what's readily available or alternatives.
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    Old 05-01-08, 23:56   #2 (permalink)
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    dont bother with checking ph during acid phase, just add 1g ascorbic acid per expected g of yield. make sure you use ascorbic, acetic makes things shitty later.


    i have found that 3 or 4 HOT defats with toluene and then 2 with naptha (just to remove any toluene) is plenty effective at removing most everything that will give you trouble later.

    again don't bother checking PH during basic phase, a good rule of thumb to be totally sure you got enough is 100g lye per 1liter dmt ascorbate solution, this may be a gross excess but lye is cheap and oh boy will you be disappointed if you evap and there aint nothin there.


    only ever used naptha as the nonpolar extraction solvent, works fine.

    to your collected solvent (containing dmt) add 1/4g activated charcoal (gravel style as opposed to cylinders) per gram of expected yield, let it set for an hour with occasional shaking and then filter it out (coffee filter won't cut it, stuff polyfill super tightly in a funnel)
    then do a freeze precip, then an ammonia wash and enjoy
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    Old 05-02-08, 10:39   #3 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    dont bother with checking ph during acid phase, just add 1g ascorbic acid per expected g of yield. make sure you use ascorbic, acetic makes things shitty later.
    I can't suggest that, a FOAF is a scientist and would never subscribe to such practices.

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    i have found that 3 or 4 HOT defats with toluene and then 2 with naptha (just to remove any toluene) is plenty effective at removing most everything that will give you trouble later.
    I heard toluene is hard to evaporate out, and leaves traces.

    Quote:
    again don't bother checking PH during basic phase, a good rule of thumb to be totally sure you got enough is 100g lye per 1liter dmt ascorbate solution, this may be a gross excess but lye is cheap and oh boy will you be disappointed if you evap and there aint nothin there.
    Thanks for the advice but no can do. That's too crude of a measurement for my FOAF's liking.


    Quote:
    only ever used naptha as the nonpolar extraction solvent, works fine.
    there's more effective solvent out there then naptha, and that's what i was asking for. naphtha is the solution for someone who has to resort to Home-Depot solvents.

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    to your collected solvent (containing dmt) add 1/4g activated charcoal (gravel style as opposed to cylinders) per gram of expected yield, let it set for an hour with occasional shaking and then filter it out (coffee filter won't cut it, stuff polyfill super tightly in a funnel)
    then do a freeze precip, then an ammonia wash and enjoy
    How about recrystallizing with hexane. I heard this is the best method
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    Old 05-02-08, 22:41   #4 (permalink)
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    it is my understanding that PH during acid phase does not matter, if theres an acid in there, then it WILL make dmt salts, period, doesnt matter how acidic it is.

    i have evapped toluene in production of other things and it evaps quite fast, just like naptha, stinks more but its quite volatile. but in this case your goal is not to evap it, you just suck it out once its saturated with fats and oils and then its waste, no need for evap, then the 2 naptha pulls after that will remove any significant traces of toluene.

    well checking the PH of basified mimosa syrup with paper strips is NOT gunna happen, its black motor oil style syrup that stains over any color indicators, you'll need a fancy PH probe that can handle extreme PHs, those aren't cheap, and even then, is it expensive enough to where you trust it 100% at that extreme PH of 13+, i don't bother with any of that when i can just throw in another 1$ worth the lye and know damn well i have enough, you can't have too much, but you can have too little, why fuck with it? it may be crude but it has yet to fail me.

    i am sure there are better solvents out there but i can't help ya there.

    look into duats crystal growing tek, works pretty well.
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