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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
![]() | Mescaline extraction gone wrong - need advice
Hello SWIM has attempted his first mescaline extraction and something has gone wrong. SWIM followed waylitjim's tek to the letter and will summarize what he did here: 1. Ground 100 grams of cacti (bought online) using a coffee grinder until powdered. 2. Mixed caustic soda with distilled water, enough to completely immerse the cacti (4.5oz soda to 0.5 pint water) 3. Put this is mason jar and shook it up. 4. Added xylene to jar and shook it up, left it for 1 hour, shook again then left for 24 hours (see pic) 5. Sucked xylene layer from jar and put in new jar. 6. Mixed hcl with some distilled water and added this to xylene (created half inch layer below xylene) 7. Put in freezer until hcl/water layer had frozen solid 8. Poured xylene back into jar with cacti. 9. Allowed hcl/water to thaw and put into glass pyrex tray. 10. Evaporated off the hcl/water using a desk fan. 11. After everything was evaporated - nothing left in tray!?! SWIM is unclear what has gone wrong here. He can't see any steps that he has missed. He thinks the most likely culprit is the hcl he bought is not strong enough. Most of the teks he has read state that the hcl will be very strong and to watch out or you could become over powered by the fumes. SWIM could put his nose by the top of the container and it was not over powering at all. Does this suggest its very dilute? The hcl was bought from a builders merchants (see pic). Could anyone suggest a better product to buy - SWIM is based in the uk. Also, is it possible the purchased cacti may not contain any mescaline? SWIM bought this from a reputable website. Again can anyone suggest a uk based site to purchase from (apologies if this is against forum rules). SWIM would be grateful for any advice on what might have caused this to happen (he isn't a complete dunce, he has done a succesful DMT extraction). Thanks W |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 388
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did you measure the pH of the aqueous layer before decanting the xylene ? you'll have to check the literature to see what pH is needed to completely salt the mescaline . if you don't reach this pH , most of the alkaloid will remain in the organic layer as a freebase . if you sniffed the surface of the HCl and it didn't make you feel like you were about to die , it is very probably too weak . if you can't find concentrated HCl , remember than you can increase the concentration yourself by adding an amount of dry MgSO4 or CaCl2 to remove the water (beware of evolved HCl gas) . |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| It is big and I am clever Join Date: Jan 1970
Posts: 893
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I am not 100% on this but I think your source for HCL is no good. The cleaner I believe has other things in it like surfactants. These are not good for your extraction. 100g is also a very small mount of cactus to be extracting, did you try scraping the dish with a razor? The residue may have been so slight that you can not see it.
__________________ Weeeeeeeee. That is all. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Shadowmancer. Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,861
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Your Hcl is way too dilute is what I am thinking. If the Hcl you used to add to the water didn't burn your nose sniffing it it is no good. When I open my bottle of Muriatic Acid ( HCl ) it almost causes you to react instantly. Like a smelling salt put under your nose. There is no way you would have been able to get your nose close enough to it to sniff it. You should see a white plume creeping out of the bottle. Go to the hardware store and buy some fresh stuff and try again. Luckily, the Xylene should still be good and have all the magic in it still. Yeah man, you'll know when you have HCl! That stuff is overpowering. That being said, be careful w/it when you get it! It's no joke. And have some vinegar on hand to neutralize it in the worst case scenario of a spill. An ounce of prevention...... ![]() I hope all turns out well for you! |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 810
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I would definitely refrain from doing any freeze speration of any kind, heat speeds all reactions and increases solubilty, i do most every step as hot as can be, solvent (or water) will absorb your desirables quicker and hold more.
__________________ only those who risk going too far can find out how far one can go... |
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 810
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good thing you have never had a spill lol
__________________ only those who risk going too far can find out how far one can go... | |
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| Shadowmancer. Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,861
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Pass the Vick's Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 824
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like i've heard on here before, garbage in / garbage out that means the better chemicals you get to work with the better the results. is your caustic soda 100% pure NaOH granules? is your hcl acid 33%? (i believe that's what waylitjim used) if your acid is too weak then it's possible the good stuff is still in the xylene. that happened to me in a dream. |
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Deadhead Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,685
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Shadowmancer. Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,861
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I Don't advise sniffing your bottle of HCl as a test, I only mentioned that the HCl is so strong that you couldn't if you wanted to. That's how strong the vapors are. That if you could sniff the bottle then it had to have been diluted. So no, I don't think one should sniff test it, just that if you can it isn't full strength Muriatic Acid. |
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| | #11 (permalink) | ||
| Shadowmancer. Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,861
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I knew I had misspoke the minute I hit enter. I guess you only have a small time frame to edit, because I see my last two posts are editable, but not any of the older ones. | ||
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
![]() | Stronger HCL
Hello, Thanks for the advice, SWIM has now obtained some stronger HCL. It was bought from a hardware store and is called 'Spirits of Salt'. Its not possible to sniff the contents of the container as the fumes are too strong. Hopefully this will do the trick. SWIM have kept the container with the cacti and the xylene - hopefully the mescaline is still suspended in it. W |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 24
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OH HELL, I just scrolled back up and noticed the "mortar and brick cleaner" This is NOt muriatic acid! It has muriatic acid in it......... Plus....??? People, don't poison yourselves! You're dealing with dangerous chemicals as is. please be responsible and read the TEK's carefully. More impotantly read the lables of the things you are buying. Take some time ...do some research. actions/ reactions (chemicals). |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Pass the Vick's Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 824
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 24
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Not sure what country you're in but in the U.S., muriatic acid is used as a concrete etcher/ cleaner and to regulate the PH in spas and swimming pools. So larger building / concrete or tile suppliers or perhaps swimming pool supply houses (although M. acid is used less and less for this purpose).
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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | i was a brick mason for many years and i can say for certain that brick cleaner is not the same as muratic acid. brick cleaner contains many other chems along with the hcl, these chems will vary depending on the brand. the original poster did not follow the tek to the letter as he thinks. muratic acid is a trade name for a solution of hcl, usually around 33%. it's available at lowe's etc.
__________________ we are not a tribe, we are the HalluciNation |
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| | #22 (permalink) | |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 473
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__________________ we are not a tribe, we are the HalluciNation | |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 24
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Yeah, We use muriatic acid for custom stone work that we do. A couple years ago it became almost impossible to find cuz everyone pulled it off the shelves because of the meth heads. We had to use this other shit and I just found an old bottle out in the shop.......Tell me if you REALLY want to use this in your extractions.....10% muriatic acid. 50% phosporic acid. 40% nitric acid. You can readily find the real stuff at concrete suppliers. And really, same thing goes with your lye. make sure it's 100% lye!!! (AAA- chemicals) did you know that powdered draino contains aluminum!!! |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| HUNAB KU Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 12
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I'd say that your acid was shite..just go and get exactly the right HCI..get yourself a $20 digital PH meter off e-bay and do it properly. The mesc is prolly still in the solvent...so you are lucky but yeah you should prolly use more catus than you are using too. When you evap your mesc HCI it will turn brown, that way you know its in the final evap...good luck its a slightly tricky extraction the mesc one...oh and a good acetone wash after you have salted will help remove any acid or other impurities...don't leave this step out. Happy mescing.
__________________ HUNAB KU |
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