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Old 04-30-09, 23:25   #1 (permalink)
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Question orange goo =good! green goo = good?

first post! a foaf recently extracted orange goo dmt from MHRB using the lazy man tek with Ronsonol lighter fluid naptha. after running out, he grabbed Coleman fuel which the label at wally world said naptha. instead of being yellow or even just mildly off yellow it's green! I assume coleman's is safe but I haven't heard anything of the colour it makes the dmt. I also assume if my foaf attempts to rextal the spice it should all go white (both orange and green) so far there's 1g of orange goo and judging by the amount evapping atm, there should be another g of green goo... anythoughts? sry if this has been answered way back
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Old 04-30-09, 23:36   #2 (permalink)
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Don't ingest the green. Coleman is not safe to use for this. Don't throw out the green just yet, there is probably someone here with enough chemistry knowledge to help you clean it but as it is, the green is poison. The orange can be cleaned and will be OK but do your homework and make sure you have the right ammonia to clean it.

Green=bad
orange=needs work
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Old 04-30-09, 23:41   #3 (permalink)
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I am no expert at all but I would definitely not smoke that shit until you get some expert advice from someone here on this. Did your solvent evaporate cleanly?
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Old 05-01-09, 00:31   #4 (permalink)
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Don't ingest the green. Coleman is not safe to use for this. Don't throw out the green just yet, there is probably someone here with enough chemistry knowledge to help you clean it but as it is, the green is poison. The orange can be cleaned and will be OK but do your homework and make sure you have the right ammonia to clean it.

Green=bad
orange=needs work

I would throw the green away
I'm pretty sure there's no hope for it.

Coleman fuel has a bunch of other crap in it besides just naphtha.
Rust inhibitors and such...
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Old 05-01-09, 00:46   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the headsup. I'd like to avoid death as much as possible I've come across afew cold precip methods. 1g orange goo dissolved in no more than 100mL of warm naptha, then placed in the freezer for acouple hours. (not sure if that'll clean the orange out fully)

foaf evapped abit of the colemans in a dish prior to extracting and it had no residue left behind(same thing as the naptha but it's all gone now ). FOAFs gonna grab ronsonol lighter fluid tomorrow to avoid this mishap in the future. in the meantime foafs just watching the crystals form in poisonous green goo :s gonna take the green extractions and keep em faaar away from the orange goo but not gonna give up on them. hope there's a way to get rid of the green. I found a thread on another site where sumone had the same issue.
http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Defau...g=posts&t=1879
ronsonol seems to be shitty but I don't know if I can find anything else(had a hard enough time with the sodium hydroxide!)
thanks again for the help
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Old 05-01-09, 00:49   #6 (permalink)
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quick note to add. foaf just checked the third extract(second green) and there's ALOT more crystals than the first two :s good lord I hope he can clean it out :s
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Old 05-01-09, 00:59   #7 (permalink)
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damnit, lysergic! I missed your post and was still pumped about saving it! I found, on the web, that there's abunch of extra stuff in colemans to help it be a better burning fuel...not an extraction solvent ohwell foafs still got a kilo of mhrb and at least one "good" extraction lol gotta learn sumhow eh??
and really the third batch is so depressing to see so many crystals and have them all being green

Last edited by zep101; 05-01-09 at 01:03. Reason: sadness
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Old 05-01-09, 01:20   #8 (permalink)
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Go to your local hardware store and pick up some VM&P Naphtha from the solvent/paint thinner section
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Old 05-01-09, 01:23   #9 (permalink)
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Decent cleaner solvents can usually be found easily in a hardware store. Most brands at an a** hardware are decent, and it's a large chain. Mom and pop hardwares often have decent brands of naphtha, too. No need to use some crappy fuel or lighter fluid solvent..
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Old 05-01-09, 02:47   #10 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what the green shit actually is....?
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Old 05-01-09, 08:46   #11 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what the green shit actually is....?
I believe it is just green dye for identification purposes, but with all the other stuff in colemans. like rust inhibitors and such as lysergic said, it is not good. VM&P Naptha is what you want.
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Old 05-01-09, 08:56   #12 (permalink)
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not sure if it's a dye or not. when foaf poured it into a measuring cup, it was clear... the selling point of the colemans was that it was in a 4 litre container but as soon as it was seperated out, there was instant worry as to why it was green. canadian tire sells ronsonol vm&p naptha in that yellow 234mL bottle. two bottles were used on the first extraction after an evap test and that's what gave the first extract, the orange goo. just don't want to look too crazy walking out of a store with 6-7 little bottles :s might just drive around the city to a few stores to look less conspicuous, seeing as I got the EYE when I asked for sodium hydroxide at home depot
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Old 05-01-09, 11:28   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah when one is buying these type of products it is much better to simply look for yourself and try to know which department you need to be looking in prior to going. I went back to home depot twice because the first time I wasn't sure if what I was going to buy was the right stuff but I wasn't about to ask someone there "is this pure lye"? Be careful and good luck
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Old 05-01-09, 11:28   #14 (permalink)
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Gallons or close to 4L containers are often found in the solvent section of any A** Hardware for under $20..
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Old 05-02-09, 11:39   #15 (permalink)
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just an update; foaf started a new batch with vm&p naptha. first extraction looks very crystally yellow(no green yay!) evapped 1 bottle of naptha and had no impurities but used almost two full bottles. now there apears to be almost ripples(caused by the fan blowin super fast) amongst the crystals. whether it's a film from the second bottles impurities or just ripples from rapid evapping I'm not sure but foaf evapped the remaing few drops from the bottles and it did apear to have a residue left. gonna leave it for another night and check. no camera atm but my foaf is gonna try and snag a few pics of the plate AND the evap to show yall. not sure if there's a thread about impurities or if an extraction is salvagable after the fact but I'll start the search TYVM

ps the film on the bottom of the evap test has an almost koleidescopic geometry but is extremely faint. foaf will check it again when he's back home cause it might not have completely evapped when he checked it last before heading out

Last edited by zep101; 05-02-09 at 11:43. Reason: extra long-winded thought
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Old 05-03-09, 00:24   #16 (permalink)
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Coleman Fuel is a combination of Naphtha, Gasoline, Petroleum Distillates, and other additives. Don't clean your green DMT. Throw it away! You could probably clean it with ammonia or acetone, but it just isn't worth a malignant growth 10 years from now.

Great information here, would love to see some pics. Glad you got a hold of some decent Naphtha! Yields?
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Old 05-03-09, 01:58   #17 (permalink)
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well, foaf didn't get a camera yet so I won't be able to show you the cyrstals on this last one, but man they're beautiful! foaf is gonna start scraping and weigh it soon. can a polar wash be done after the fact? redissolve the product in warm naptha then proceed with polar wash??

foaf has another emulsion rolling atm... still unsure of that naptha purity, evapped another small amount to see and there's a BARELY visible film of eskers as the naptha receded
should have sum pics of the next batch
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Old 05-03-09, 03:32   #18 (permalink)
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can a polar wash be done after the fact? redissolve the product in warm naptha then proceed with polar wash??

Yep
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Old 05-04-09, 20:38   #19 (permalink)
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I'd suggest forming aqueous DMT.HCl, and an organic layer to catch the green shit. Separate, and basify the aqueous solution with a fresh layer of organic. You probably won't need much water or organic solvent for this, so you'll probably be able to form some nice crystals if you heat and cool the organic layer the right way.

Let the two layers have a lot of contact time (and surface area) before separating, collect product, and then add a small amount of solvent to the aqueous layer to pull out whatever else might be left. I'd think that since the aqueous solution will have a pretty high concentration of DMT, you should get some clean crystals from the first pull.

Some product will be lost, so try not to use more organic solvent than necessary to remove the green. Save that spice!
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Old 05-04-09, 21:20   #20 (permalink)
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Also, when you redissolve the green goo into your organic solvent, use warm solvent, and only use enough to dissolve the goo. When you separate the solvent ("dirty" with goo), save it. When you're all done, try adding it to another portion of HCl solution. If there's any DMT freebase left, it should migrate into the aqueous solution.
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Old 05-16-09, 13:05   #21 (permalink)
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well foaf already destroyed all the green :s two pie dishes worth:s but thanks for the info anyway!! 1.5 grams after warm naptha redissolve and freezer precip. used container that didn't have a totally flat bottom but got it all after lots of scraping. still have 3 trays evapping that foaf will dissolve in summore warm naptha. still no pix tho :s
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Old 05-16-09, 13:14   #22 (permalink)
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Just a note: for scraping, even on a rounded bottom pan, PLASTIC razor blades (yes, plastic!) can be purchased at auto parts stores. They are for scraping decals off coated windshields.

Resharpenable, too.
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