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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 51
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A few questions about mescaline extraction: 1. When defatting cactus for extraction what PH do I want my mix of base-water and cactus powder to be before I do my xylene pulls? 2. What is the proportion of cactus powder to water that should be used? And how much Xylene should be used for the pulls? 3. If salting via HCL solution, what PH do I want the HCL-water to be before it is added to the xylene. 4. How much HCL solution do I want to add to my xylene when salting? 5. Do I want to put all my xylene pulls together and then salt or salt each pull on its own? 6. Can I put all the HCL solution together for evaporation? Thanks for the help. |
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| | #2 (permalink) | |||||||
| Deadhead Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,685
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Shadowmancer. Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,863
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I agree w/ E.J. Used his ratio and got white to off-white, but am planning to see what my yield looks like using a slightly weaker concentration next time. It was white but 3 drops might be even better. It will take more water but water is easy to drive off so it will be worth the effort. I'll be sure to post pics when the time comes. As for pH. 4-5 drops still lowers the water to between 2-3. I know it is time to put fresh HCl water in the Sep Funnel when this acidified water comes out of the S. Funnel either neutral or even basic sometimes ( the first pulls change pH quickly, it is the later saltings that take a lot more shaking etc to get them neutral ) I stop salting the Xylene when the the last 200 or 150mls of HCl water no longer neutralize. Be sure to have a Sep Funnel or make a DIY one as freezing xylene/water for separation is time consuming and makes one have to do a lot of math to figure out how much water should be added etc. Using E.J.s ratio of 4-5 drops or 1 drop per 75mls has always given good results and I have never gotten any Sanchez. All was usable as is. Although an acetone cleaning did make some good looking stuff even more crystalline and less fluffy which makes for much easier weighing/putting into caps.
__________________ Looking at a cookie is like looking at the future. Until you've tasted it what do you really know? And once you have, it's too late. ~ Merlin |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 51
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Thank you all for the advice. I am really after the PH numbers though. A few drops per cup isn't as accurate as I would like. I am starting with high concentration HCL and wanted to PH accordingly. I guess I'll just have to experiment and find the best values on my own. I'll report back when I do this. |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 319
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It takes a little trial and error to find the best pH for salting because the best pH depends on how much alkaloid one has in the NP. My friend collects all of his NP pulls so that it's consistent and starts salting with a pH of around four and then checks to see how much it's gone up after salting and adjusts from there. |
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Pass the Vick's Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 824
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also, if your hcl is highly concentrated you may want to dilute it, else the ph can drop pretty drastically depending on your addition rate / volume of water you're working with / concentration of hcl. give it about 5 minutes in between checking the ph | |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Mycophage Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 170
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what I do when I salt is start with a very small amount of acid water shake let seperate collect water, usually it comes out basic cause i didn't add enough acid so i add one drop then put it through the xylene again let seperate collect and check again. I do this until it comes out neutrol or just barely acidic then keep to precip. Correct me if I am wrong but if the water comes out basic wouldn't that meen the alkaloids are still in the xylene.
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