DMT tek, need advice

[Raziel]

I have been doing alot of reading on extracting DMT and I still do not know what the best tek is or where to begin. So far I have aquired 250g MHRB, Napha(lighter fuel) and Lye (caustic soda aka drain unblocker). What would a good tek be for a complete extraction virgin but would like a tek that has good yields but would be happy with yellow or white DMT.

There seems to be so many teks in here and on the net I'm abit confused to which one to go with.

[apokalypse]

FOAF just completed an STB and pulled 90% out from STB. They also noticed that there appears to be more solvent that has separated in the jars that could probably also be evaporated off, but they will wait til they do more. FOAF did the "lazyman's tek" which is 15mL water to 1g lye for every 1g powdered MHRB.

whatchamacallit's got a very detailed writeup here (DMT extraction, tap or distilled water? ..troubles raising ph above 12) that you can check out as well.

[UnlearnEverything]

STB is quicker, but Acid/Base works great IMO. Marsofold's TEK is sure fire. For that tek, you don't need to use a crockpot. You can use a stainless steel pot for the boils. And instead of using a glass jar, use a 1 gallon vinegar jug (HDPE2).

How to easily make DMT:
=======================
Break 1-Pound of Mimosa Hostilis rootbark into 1" pieces using new heavy-duty
wirecutters, then grind it all up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time.
------------------------------------
Polar Extraction: Premix in an empty 1-Gallon plastic jug: 1-Quart White Vinegar
& 3-Quarts Water. Put the ground up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crockpot, then fill it
with the water-vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on "high". After 2 hours,
remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off
most of the liquid into a 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container.Add
the remaining water-vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn
it on "high". After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on
slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again.
Discard the rootbark fiber and save the two combined extractions in the 1-gallon
container. Allow the vegetable particles in the extraction in the 1-gallon
container to settle to the bottom overnight. Then pour off the liquid into an
empty 1-Gallon glass wine jug, being careful not to pour off any of the vegetable
sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug.
------------------------------------
Basification: Premix a solution of: 5 heaping Tablespoons (70grams) of Lye
(Lowes Hardware, item# 146450 "Roebic Crystal Drain Opener") SLOWLY added to
1-Pint of warm water. Stir well. Slowly add this solution to the wine jug,then
cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix.
------------------------------------
Nonpolar Extraction: Add 275ml of (Ace Hardware) VM&P Naptha to the wine jug.
Add exactly enough warm water to the jug to raise the liquid level to an inch
below the top. Cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug slowly back and forth for
5 full minutes to mix the contents. Allow the jug to sit undisturbed on a table
for at least 3 hours. There should now be two layers visible in the jug, a lower
dark one and a smaller clear one on top filling the neck of the jug. Use a glass
turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a large glass baking pan. Be
very careful NOT to suck up any of the lower brown foam/black liquid layer.
-------------------------------------
Freeze-precipitation: Cover the glass baking pan with plastic wrap and place it
in a FREEZER for 3 days to precipitate the DMT crystals. Remove the pan from the
freezer and quickly lift the plastic wrap from a corner of the pan. Tilt the pan
and slowly pour off all of the naptha through the exposed corner, being careful
not to dislodge the crystals stuck to the bottom of the pan. Re-seal the corner
of the pan by stretching the plastic wrap back over it. Allow several hours for
the pan to reach room temperature, then remove all of the plastic wrap. Allow
the crystals in the pan to completely dry out overnight in a cool place. Then
use a pair of single-edged razor blades to scrape up the impure DMT crystals.
-------------------------------------
Ammonia Wash: Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart jar and
putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel. Place the impure DMT crystals
into the filter paper. Chill a bottle of NON-SOAPY clear Ammonium Hydroxide
(Ace Hardware Janitorial Strength Ammonia) in a refrigerator. Slowly pour 35ml
of the cold ammonia over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them.
Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals
to COMPLETELY dry out. You will now have 2-1/2 grams of white crystal DMT.
Mix it with some dried parsley and smoke a little in your favorite pipe!
[Updated April 3rd, 2006 to better serve you!] Edited by: marsofold

If you're satisfied with the final product, you can skip the washing. Let us know which tek you decide to use, and ask questions

[Frequency]

Newb-proof STB: http://forums.mycotopia.net/dmt-spic...-easy-stb.html (Clean & Easy STB)

Awesome first-timer tek ftw.

[Raziel]

Wow that is simple and defintaly newb-proof, I think I will attempt that one

[Frequency]

Originally Posted by Raziel

Wow that is simple and defintaly newb-proof, I think I will attempt that one

Can't wait! I must have read that thing about a thousand times before, during, and after dreaming about it. In dreams things stay relatively simple and it's very effective. Lys is that deal.

May the force be with you!

[Raziel]

In that tek, this is said:

"Screens were made out of some wood and some nylon
stockings. They were very cheap to make, and are highly
recommended if one will be going the evaporation route."

Why ?

Also,

When "pulls" are mentioned/done, does that just mean adding more Naptha, shaking the mix and sucking the Naptha layer off with the syringe ??? I always see the word "pull" but it doesn't mean much to the newbies like me. In a few days/weeks time I will be laughing at asking saying the previous sentance like when I asked "can I use BRF as a bulk sub ?" when I first started learning about growing mushrooms

[lysergic]

Originally Posted by Raziel

In that tek, this is said:

"Screens were made out of some wood and some nylon
stockings. They were very cheap to make, and are highly
recommended if one will be going the evaporation route."

Why ?

The purpose of the screens is to prevent particles/dust/bugs from getting into the evaporating solvent.
The frames were made to fit the size of the evaporation dishes

[Raziel]

Ahh ok makes sense, I edited my post and asked another question too you might have missed. Thanks lysergic I will be .... um , I mean SWIM will be using your tek for "their" 1st extraction so I am sure I will be asking lots and lots of questions.

[wildburr]

I've had good results from both STB and Acid\Base extraction.

[lysergic]

Originally Posted by Raziel

When "pulls" are mentioned/done, does that just mean adding more Naptha, shaking the mix and sucking the Naptha layer off with the syringe ??? I always see the word "pull" but it doesn't mean much to the newbies like me.

That is correct.

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by wildburr

I've had good results from both STB and Acid\Base extraction.

I think STB sounds and easier and lysergic tek is very simple and easy to follow. Some teks I have read sound very confusing for someone that has never done attempted something like a extraction. Yous just cleared up another question I was going to ask "what does A/B" stand for ?"... Joke..

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by lysergic

That is correct.

Cool, just checking

[Raziel]

What is difference between A/B and STB, advantages and disadvantages and what do most people prefer ?

[Frequency]

Originally Posted by Raziel

Cool, just checking

Yep, a pull is a portion of solvent that was first mixed with an aqueous layer and then separated from it. This video is useful in understanding exactly what is going on and how to perform the work-up (tek) in the most ideal conditions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciWpS6SetdY/

STB is preferred over simple convenience and lack of strong acids. Some say a cleaner product is produced with an A/B compared to STB, however some prefer the yellow oily spice compared to white. A simple reXtal (freeze precipitation) after an STB would be a proper supplement.

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by Frequency

Yep, a pull is a portion of solvent that was first mixed with an aqueous layer and then separated from it. This video is useful in understanding exactly what is going on and how to perform the work-up (tek) in the most ideal conditions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciWpS6SetdY/

STB is preferred over simple convenience and lack of strong acids. Some say a cleaner product is produced with an A/B compared to STB, however some prefer the yellow oily spice compared to white. A simple reXtal (freeze precipitation) after an STB would be a proper supplement.

Link not working.

[Raziel]

Would the yield be simular to a A/B extraction if I were to use lysergic's tek ? I am guess lysergic's tel would yield more due to the end product not being as pure if you say A/B is cleaner.

[Frequency]

Originally Posted by Raziel

Link not working.

Would the yield be simular to a A/B extraction if I were to use lysergic's tek ? I am guess lysergic's tel would yield more due to the end product not being as pure if you say A/B is cleaner.

Paste the link into your browser instead of using Mycotopia's redirect. Not sure what's up with youtube. I tried to embed it and it's malformed too. If you paste it directly and browse it will load.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciWpS6SetdY

You're right in assuming the oily STB would yield more impure product than a cleaner A/B.

[lysergic]

Originally Posted by Frequency

You're right in assuming the oily STB would yield more impure product than a cleaner A/B.

I think a lot of it has to do with the quality and age of the bark.
My friends have used the same procedure on different batches of bark,
and gotten very clean (evaporated) spice,
and other times they obtained oily spice that needed cleaning.

An A/B might come out cleaner initially,
but it's much easier/less time consuming
to perform an STB and just recrystallize the product.

[Thre365ive]

Originally Posted by lysergic

I think a lot of it has to do with the quality and age of the bark.
My friends have used the same procedure on different batches of bark,
and gotten very clean (evaporated) spice,
and other times they obtained oily spice that needed cleaning.

An A/B might come out cleaner initially,
but it's much easier/less time consuming
to perform an STB and just recrystallize the product.

But it's more fun to do the whole process.

[UnlearnEverything]

Originally Posted by Thre365ive

But it's more fun to do the whole process.

Aint that the truth! The extraction process is so much fun It's great to complete a project, don't get me wrong. But once it's over, I'm anxious to do it again. Oh well, I'll just have to smoke twice as much and finish off what I have. Life is rough...

[Seven-NJ]

Nomans Dmt for the masses STB tek is a no-brainer!!

[apokalypse]

Originally Posted by UnlearnEverything

Aint that the truth! The extraction process is so much fun It's great to complete a project, don't get me wrong. But once it's over, I'm anxious to do it again. Oh well, I'll just have to smoke twice as much and finish off what I have. Life is rough...

I had to stop myself from extracting the rest of mine last night when I was drinking because I knew I'd have too much fun

[UnlearnEverything]

Originally Posted by apokalypse

I had to stop myself from extracting the rest of mine last night when I was drinking because I knew I'd have too much fun

Too much fun. Drinking and extracting, not the best idea! When my friend first extracted he used the gallon of wine-o in a glass jug.... he drank most of the jug before he stated. The kitchen looked like a shit-storm passed through.

Raziel, have to started yet?

[Raziel]

What does this step mean in this tek ?

"3. MHRB was combined with basic H2O in a 1 gal HDPE water jug.
(If the mixture is basic enough, it will turn a slippery black color)"

http://forums.mycotopia.net/dmt-spic...-easy-stb.html (Clean & Easy STB)

What is "basic" and is the MHRB added to the water and lye mix right away ??? I am started my extraction in a couple of hours and I am doing some last minute reading.

Im using the tek above.

Oh and i am using 250g of mhrb so I am halfing all the measurements in the tek.

[lysergic]

Originally Posted by Raziel

What does this step mean in this tek ?

"3. MHRB was combined with basic H2O in a 1 gal HDPE water jug.
(If the mixture is basic enough, it will turn a slippery black color)"

http://forums.mycotopia.net/dmt-spic...-easy-stb.html (Clean & Easy STB)

What is "basic" and is the MHRB added to the water and lye mix right away ??? I am started my extraction in a couple of hours and I am doing some last minute reading.

Im using the tek above.

Oh and i am using 250g of mhrb so I am halfing all the measurements in the tek.

"Basic" just means having a pH above 7.0.
In this case though, the proper pH will be closer to 13 or 14.

The MHRB is added to the water/lye mix like you said.

Halfing the amounts should work fine. You might want to use a tad more lye though.



Good luck!

[Raziel]

Juyst about to mix the lye with water. Water first and goggles on

[Raziel]

I have finished grinding my MHRB and 2/3's is a really fine dust which is what we want but the remaining 1/3 is a really fibreous material that almost resembles sphagnum moss and some tiny crumbs of the remaining root bark. Should I mix this with the powder or put to one side and do a seperate extraction with it ? My hand blender is red hot and about to die.

[Raziel]

Also how hot should the "hot water bath" be ?

[whatchamacallit]

Just as hot as the tap will go, is all SWIM does.. Also, just throw the big chunks back in blender or coffee grinder to get it all ground up finely, then add it to the rest, after the blender is cooled down.. Otherwise, maybe save it to extract later, when you can grind it fully.

[Raziel]

How long do you wait for it to seperate before sucking it up ? I have just come back from work and I left the jar to seperate while I went to work for 4 hours. Before I left there was only 2-3 mm of Naptha and it was seperating very slowly, too slow to see. I just got back (4 hours later) and there is a healthy 2-3 cm of yellow liquid. I sucked the layer of, maybe 30 ml and now I am doing my 2nd pull. Again, it is seperating slowly, does this all sound right ???

I don't minfd waiting at all but only if I am doing it right. Please advise.

Regarding our conversation earlier whatchamacallit, I got a better jug which is bigger so I can add more water which may help it seperate quicker but if it just means I have to wait longer inbetween pulls I will leave it how it is.

Oh and the mix have the texture of crude oil, sound ok ?

[Raziel]

Sorry to keep posting but I have a billzillion questions I want to ask, the new question is:

Is it too late to use a bigger container and add more water or even more water and lye ? I think my mix is too thick and that is why it it taking longer tham expected to seperate. The jar I am using now is to small to add any more liquid of anything.

Please advise

[kcmoxtractor]

No, go for it. Add more lye also. You have to keep that pH high!

[catdaddy]

I like to see a mixture as thin as hot 5W30 drained from a warm engine...

As long as the PH is 13 or 14, the amount of water isn't critical- but a thinner mix should "work" and separate faster.

As I understand it, if you add TOO much lye- all that happens is when the solution is "saturated" it is difficult to get any more lye to dissolve and the solution stays cloudy- so err on the wet and basic side.

The later pulls seem to separate slower, and MAY indicate a need for more lye.

No matter what, you should end up with MAGIC. You will get the "feel" somewhere along the way, and become one with the process...

And when you're done and have DMT, you can "purify" from there... a little heptane does the trick.

You are almost there!

[Raziel]

Thanks guys, I just transfered it to a larger more suitable container. I added more water and lye and already there is a clear layer of at least 2-3 cm

[piggy69]

are you using ronsonol Raz?

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by piggy69

are you using ronsonol Raz?

No, White spirit

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.js...&isSearch=true

[piggy69]

Is there an MSDS sheet or something somewhere?

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by piggy69

Is there an MSDS sheet or something somewhere?

http://www.bartoline.co.uk/Datasheet...x?articleid=50

[Raziel]

I think I am on my 4th pull and I am still getting alot of yellow liquid of the surface. How many pulls should I do and how do I know when all the goodness has been leeched by the Naptha (I guess that is what the Naptha is doing) ?

[kcmoxtractor]

Yellow liquid on the surface of your naphtha?

[Raziel]

No, yellow surface on top of the black sludge which I assume is the Naptha.

[Raziel]

Ok I have done 4 or 5 pulls and on the last pull hardly any seperation. I added some more lye and still no seperation so I guess I am done, now just to evaperate.

What is the freeze prep about ??? Shall I evaperte with a fan or stick the tray in the freezer, I don't understand the freezer bit

Can anything be done with the sludge that is left over or should I dump it down the toilet ???

[whatchamacallit]

Let it sit in a heat bath again, it should fully separate.. For freezing, just evap the solvent until it's cloudy, then put it in a container, and seal it, and place it in the freezer for a day or so.. The crystals will collect in the bottom of the container... Naphtha can't hold the DMT when it is freezing cold, so all the DMT will crash out of the solvent, and then can be poured (decanted) off slowly, leaving the crystals stuck to the bottom of the container. These can then be scraped up, and placed in front of a fan to fully dry.

[buteo]

ah whatcha got to ya 1st try it

[Raziel]

Originally Posted by whatchamacallit

Let it sit in a heat bath again, it should fully separate.. For freezing, just evap the solvent until it's cloudy, then put it in a container, and seal it, and place it in the freezer for a day or so.. The crystals will collect in the bottom of the container... Naphtha can't hold the DMT when it is freezing cold, so all the DMT will crash out of the solvent, and then can be poured (decanted) off slowly, leaving the crystals stuck to the bottom of the container. These can then be scraped up, and placed in front of a fan to fully dry.

Whats the difference in just evaperting it using a heat bath and a fan and the other option freezing it ???

[kcmoxtractor]

For another example of this boil some water. While your water is heating measure out 450g of sugar. When your water boils pour 100mL off into a container and quickly dissolve the sugar into the water by stirring. When the sugar has dissolved into the water just let it sit for a few minutes. As the temperature of the water starts to go down the sugar will start to accumulate on the bottom of the container. If you observe the solution, you will notice that more sugar falls out of the solution as the temperature drops. If you want to recover your sugar (450g is about two cups worth) you can just evaporate the water.

Have you ever made Kool Aid, and noticed that you can make it far sweeter when the water is warm than cold? When you have a water temperature of 100C (boiling point) you can dissolve about 487g of sugar in 100mL of water, at 80C about 362g of sugar in 100mL, at 60C about 287g of sugar in 100 mL.

That is because certain solvents (water, or naphtha) can hold more solute (sugar, or DMT) when warm. Freezing will get a cleaner product. The impurities will stay in the naphtha solution and the DMT will precipitate out, since you have more DMT than impurities in your solution. Be sure and reuse the naphtha that you put in your freezer for your next pull, it still has some DMT in it!

[Thre365ive]

Originally Posted by kcmoxtractor

For another example of this boil some water. While your water is heating measure out 450g of sugar. When your water boils pour 100mL off into a container and quickly dissolve the sugar into the water by stirring. When the sugar has dissolved into the water just let it sit for a few minutes. As the temperature of the water starts to go down the sugar will start to accumulate on the bottom of the container. If you observe the solution, you will notice that more sugar falls out of the solution as the temperature drops. If you want to recover your sugar (450g is about two cups worth) you can just evaporate the water.

Have you ever made Kool Aid, and noticed that you can make it far sweeter when the water is warm than cold? When you have a water temperature of 100C (boiling point) you can dissolve about 487g of sugar in 100mL of water, at 80C about 362g of sugar in 100mL, at 60C about 287g of sugar in 100 mL.

That is because certain solvents (water, or naphtha) can hold more solute (sugar, or DMT) when warm. Freezing will get a cleaner product. The impurities will stay in the naphtha solution and the DMT will precipitate out, since you have more DMT than impurities in your solution. Be sure and reuse the naphtha that you put in your freezer for your next pull, it still has some DMT in it!

That's the simple, practical-for-this-purpose explanation, anyway.

[whatchamacallit]

Originally Posted by Raziel

Whats the difference in just evaperting it using a heat bath and a fan and the other option freezing it ???

Using a heat bath to evaporate often leaves one with a more oily result, and the DMT can take much longer to crystallize. It's best to use cool or cold air to evaporate, and one will see the crystals fall out of the solvent, rather than having to wait for the goo to harden up. SWIM would always advise against using heat when evaporating naphtha with DMT. If one gets it too hot, the DMT will vaporize with the evaporating solvent. DMT has a very low melting point, especially when it has more impurities.