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Old 10-12-09, 21:01   #1 (permalink)
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Best drain cleaner

For cleaning pumpkin pulp out of the drain. I came home from work to find four new jack-o-lanterns and a clogged sink. Guess the kids think you can put anything down the disposal. I have pulled the trap and snaked the line a couple times, the snake I have is only 6ft and the drain is still very slow. Anyone know what chem would work best on pumpkin pulp?

Haha you thought I was asking something else. lol

But really, I am serious, my sink is fubar'd
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Old 10-12-09, 21:59   #2 (permalink)
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Lye is usually used for cleaning out the sink. You can get the drano crystals stuff and it works really well.
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Old 10-12-09, 22:03   #3 (permalink)
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Depending on the style of your sink (overflows or not). You may be able to cover one drain, and plunger the other side.

You might also check to see if the clog is truly on the disposal side. It might be draining slow due to the non-disposal being clogged. It could possibly cause a slow drain, due to the drain not venting out the other side. I have seen this happen a few times with macaronis and rice

You might be able to get your snake to reach a few more feet if you have compression fittings on the larger (2 inch if i recall) by snaking directly into that pipe.

But as far as your question, I have no idea about the commercial drain cleaners. I would think that they are pretty similar though. I think liquid Draino is the only one I have ever used in the past.

I about forgot to mention to check the pipe that exits the disposal. They often get clogged from vegetable matter. In fact, I would probably check there first.

Hope this helps,
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Old 10-13-09, 05:26   #4 (permalink)
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Lye is usually used for cleaning out the sink. You can get the drano crystals stuff and it works really well.
This.

Also, you can try baking soda + vinegar if you want something non-caustic but not as effective.
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Old 10-13-09, 11:22   #5 (permalink)
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Usually one uses lye or sulfuric acid, which should not be used together, but either could be separately. Maybe the kind that has the two chems that mix together when poured to make a foaming snake in the drain, would work well, too. Try one at a time and rinse well with water before trying another, if the first or second try doesn't work.
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Old 10-13-09, 12:00   #6 (permalink)
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Wow, I'd always heard you could use drain opener to open clogged drains, but I never knew anyone actually used it for that purpose! It's like those people who use pressure cookers to make food... wtf is up with that?

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Maybe the kind that has the two chems that mix together when poured to make a foaming snake in the drain, would work well, too. Try one at a time and rinse well with water before trying another, if the first or second try doesn't work.
That's a mix of hydrogen peroxide and lye in one side and bleach in the other. They mix and foam up a lot but don't work at all on standing-water clogs or very well with any other kind.



Anyway, the sulfuric acid type (get at big box hardware or specialty plumbing store) is probably the best chemical drain opener for that problem since it sounds like there's too much mass to plunge out or shove through and H2SO4 has worked a lot better for me in the past than lye with clogs that are not very greasy or contain much fat. Lye is better for greasy clogs.
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Old 10-13-09, 13:34   #7 (permalink)
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That's a mix of hydrogen peroxide and lye in one side and bleach in the other. They mix and foam up a lot but don't work at all on standing-water clogs or very well with any other kind.
Wouldn't lye and bleach create chlorine gas, which is deadly?
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Old 10-13-09, 15:51   #8 (permalink)
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Bleach and ammonia may be what you are thinking of whatcha, liquid plumr is actually bleach and lye mixed together I think. If you have fats stuck in your sink the lye will not usually take care of the clog. Maybe try putting a little bit of a degreasing soap down your drain then pour boiling water in a little at a time. If it is a fatty clog it should dissolve it.

Bleach is usually sodium hypochlorite 6%. Chlorine is what causes the oxidation effect of bleach.
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Old 10-13-09, 16:03   #9 (permalink)
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If the direct drain line is clean there is always a possibility that your air line has been plugged by them pumpkin seeds etc. This can be fixed by running a hose to the top of your house and attacking the proper rubber nozzle on end of your water. Turn on water, if line is blocked the rubber will swell and use water pressure to force out any object blocking your drain lines. you will most likely have to block any drains off so water can be sent directly down the water pipe drain.


Good luck


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Old 10-13-09, 19:05   #10 (permalink)
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Old 10-13-09, 19:48   #11 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear about that. Everything I just read about it indicates you'll need to have someone roto-rooter out your pipes. I was going to suggest an enzymatic cleaner but apparently that pulp hardens to the consistency of fiberglass resin & practically the only way to deal with it is to call a plumber
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Old 10-14-09, 09:30   #12 (permalink)
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Wouldn't lye and bleach create chlorine gas, which is deadly?
There is a vigorous reaction, but it's between the peroxide and the bleach not the lye and the bleach. It gets really warm and foamy but the gas produced is pure O2.

When bleach-mopping my room for mycology or whatever, I keep some peroxide handy as a quick bleach neutralizer. If I spill some bleach on something (like my pants, or the floor), I pour some peroxide on it ASAP and it instantly stops any bleaching and kills the odor. It's a handy trick.
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Old 10-14-09, 10:20   #13 (permalink)
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There is a vigorous reaction, but it's between the peroxide and the bleach not the lye and the bleach. It gets really warm and foamy but the gas produced is pure O2.

When bleach-mopping my room for mycology or whatever, I keep some peroxide handy as a quick bleach neutralizer. If I spill some bleach on something (like my pants, or the floor), I pour some peroxide on it ASAP and it instantly stops any bleaching and kills the odor. It's a handy trick.
Awesome tip, TV, thanks!
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Old 10-23-09, 01:27   #14 (permalink)
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If one has about a half inch of chlorine crystals in the bottom of a dixie cup & pours DOT 3 brake fluid on it just enough to cover the top of the crystals one gets an 8' flame in 5-9 minutes, if one floods the reaction w/too much fluid an impressive amount of chlorine gas is emitted. Measuring exact amounts results in precise reactions, naturally.
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Old 10-23-09, 10:49   #15 (permalink)
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And putting the brake fluid in the freezer first (or dropping some dry ice in it) will increase that delay considerably, which may be an issue for some. I fear we're about to stray into an awkward and off-topic direction here, though I do think it's certainly important to know what reacts with what so we can avoid those combinations and not accidentally kill ourselves while cleaning out our workshop or garage (or trying to un-clog the hell out of our drains).
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Old 11-05-09, 23:08   #16 (permalink)
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Fear not, my propensity for the bizarre is enduring but not (always) malevolent. Not benign either, but innocently mixing household chems can fuck some shit up (especially if you're trying). I admit it's usually intentional when I bother but accidents happen. Now a wonderful method of producing poisonous gas from flushing a toilet doesn't belong here, but shit happens
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Old 11-06-09, 08:20   #17 (permalink)
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Fear not, my propensity for the bizarre is enduring but not (always) malevolent.
As is your propensity for understatement.

Also, IMO our actions don't count as malevolent if 'they' started it, whatever "it" is.
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