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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 8
![]() | DMT TEK--Need Feedback
THE DMT TEK ----Materials One Kilo MHRB powder Naptha (VMP) NAOH water (tap) Vinegar (for neutralization if neccesary) Gallon Pickle Jars Collection Jars ----NOTES I will be doing a couple of extractions with a 15ml/1g/1g (Water/mhrb powder/lye) formula for the basified liquid. Probably one 50 gram extraction than multiple 100-200 gram extractions for the rest of the powder. I will follow the normal STB extractions (a lazy mans, but with smaller changes) please give me feedback as this is just my procedure and not done yet. I will then revise my tek again based on feedback and then proceed with the experiment. ***THE EXTRACTION PROCEDURE*** 1. I will add the lye to the water in its pre-measured 15ml/1g/1g amounts slowly until all lye is dissolved and the exothermic reaction is no longer producing heat. I will do this in a jar that is best suited for the dmt to be extracted. 2. I will cap and shake the jar until all powder is thoroughly mixed and there are no clumps left. 3. I will then heat the basified mixture in a water bath on low heat, just enough to let the naptha mix well with the basified mixture. I will do this by placing metal rings (from mason jars) on the bottom of a pot filled with water and placing the jar on top of the rings. The jar will not touch the bottom of the pot, but will be suspended over the pot atop the rings. 4. I will then add 1ml of Naptha to each 1 gram of bark powder used in the basified liquid. 5. I will then cap the mix after the Naptha is added and turn it end over end until the solvent is thoroughly mixed and I will place the Naptha/Base mix back into the water bath with the cap off to help emulsions settle until there are no emulsions left and there is a definite layer between solvent and base. 6. I will then siphon off the top layer and place in a baking dish or a couple as many pulls as I want from the basified liquid. --I feel there is no harm with pulling many times. Only Naptha could be wasted but spice can be saved! 7. I will fan evap the baking dishes and scrape and smoke. My questions Is it worth the effort to freeze percp?? Does it really cause that much of a difference. If I did I would probably use the excess naptha to create either another freeze percp jar or put it out for evap. Is that an alright way to save all the spice? Can crystals made by freeze processes be touched by fingers without dissolving? or should I use a knife blade for transport and measurements? I might freeze evap what are peoples opinions and yield losses/purity gains etc. Is smoking impurities weather it be jungle, yellow or whatever be bad for you? DMT is pretty much safe by itself because the body can metabolize it easily but can the inhalation of impurity vapors be harmful to you? Please give me any feedback you think will help me. Thanks again |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| suodɐǝʍ ƃuıןıdʞɔoʇs Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 635
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Item #2. Simply stirring your lye water will suffice and be safer. Item #5. You can stir it at this point also. A wooden spoon or dowel works well. This can be done while in the water bath. Give both the evaporating and the freezing a try to see which you like better. By using naptha you will not be able to pull jungle in this process. Many including myself prefer the yellow to the white as it is more colorful imo. Be sure to protect your eyes and your hands. Good luck & welcome to the site.
__________________ Repugnant is a creature who would squander the ability to lift an eye to heaven, conscious of his fleeting time here. -tool |
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| | #3 (permalink) | |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 281
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Everything sounds good. As far as precip vs evap, it all depends on whether one wants to reuse their NP, if they feel like dealing with an evap, have a cold freezer, want white or yellow spice, and on and on. Precip is cleaner and faster if you have a really cold freezer. Evap yields more, is prone to yellow oiliness which many, myself included prefer, and is a pain in the ass. My friend has taken to precipitating the first two pulls and evaporating the second two and then pulling with toluene and evaporating that. This gives him several grades that he can mix and match and clean or not and generally dick around with. I would highly suggest not heating the solution until one has done a pull or two - the ultra high pH of STB's and heat drives so much gunk into the NP, it can often result in a mess. | |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Satan's Helper Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,349
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I cap and shake a jar with undissolved lye in it all the time. I use whatchamacallit's tek. Use 1g milk jugs. You can just release the pressure as it builds because you can feel it in the jug. You really don't have to use that 1/1/15 ratio either. I don't and yield over 1.5% pretty consistently. Read it, it - http://forums.mycotopia.net/botanica...pictorial.html (Whatcha's Easy MHRB STB Extraction, Step by Step Pictorial) ![]() Good luck extracting!
__________________ "It was the straying that found the path direct" - Austin Osman Spare |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Satan's Helper Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,349
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Dont use glass, lye will etch glass and it could possibly break. Go buy a gallon of water from the store and use that. The HDPE2 plastic is a better container by far. You can also throw away the milk jugs when you are done and there isn't a drug lab (in the eyes of the law) in your house. You really should look over that tek that I posted the link to. It is an amazing step by step pictorial of the entire process. BTW Welcome to Mycotopia!
__________________ "It was the straying that found the path direct" - Austin Osman Spare |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Forever Grateful Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 261
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Watcha's tek is bomb. I used it for the first time this week and got about 1.2% yield from my bark. And the freeze precip yielded me 5 grams of almost pure white crystals...the leftover naptha that I evaped had the dark yellow jungle goodness in it, about another gram. So best of both worlds. Good luck wazzeling and try Watcha's tek. ![]() GT
__________________ Embrace this moment. Remember; we are eternal, all this pain is an illusion. ~ TOOL | |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Satan's Helper Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,349
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Here's a picture of what the freezer precipitated typically looks like, without recrystallization. Second is what a jug looks like after about a day and a half in the freezer.
__________________ "It was the straying that found the path direct" - Austin Osman Spare |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
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as far as what's said about the hdpe jugs over glass I highly agree, exept I prefer to use those gallon ones you get at the gas station with windshield washer fluid in them, there only one dallar for a gallon jug and there quite abit thicker, just make sure you rinse them out good first. ps In the end I put my naptha pulls in mason jars and put that into the freezer to precipitate, if you wrap them with seran wrap go to fridge thenn freezer it cools slower and you get a better crystal formation .
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Radioactive Workhorse Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
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SWIM's been reading teks for a while, has the supplies and such and is about to do his first extraction. SWIM's been reading up on the chemical compatability of the plastic Nalgene, which SWIM believes is a type of high density polyethylene (number 2). SWIM believes that the tall skinny Nalgene plastic drink containers you find at sporting and outdoor stores would be great because they seal tightly, have graduations on them, are translucent, and due to being tall and skinny, provide a reduced surface area which would help to maximize the amount of naptha you cal pull off the top of the aqueous mixture, if you're siphoning or using a pipette. SWIM now wants to know if anyone out there has experience using Nalgene containers. SWIM would evap and precip in glass, and just use the Nalgene bottles for the extraction. Please discuss. grassy ass. |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Radioactive Workhorse Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
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SWIM would also recommend distilled water due to the chlorine, fluoride, minerals, and any other chemical which may be inherent to one's local water supply. And if you want to use milk jugs, distilled water comes in those and you don't have to wash the jugs.
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
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I have never seen the plastic nalgene before so I cant say, if it was hdpe it would have to state it somewhere on the container. the hdpe jugs I was talking about with the washer fluid are as well translucent, thick, and they graduate at the top, the last 700ml or so. I use a pippette to seperate, on the first pulls I leave a small amount of naptha, about a cm (no more), and then on the last pull I add more water bringing the naptha to the top where it graduates more, repeat until theres little less then a cm in the cap. this way I get it all for the most part and it's clean, meaning I never suck up any of the basified sllurry. |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Radioactive Workhorse Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 42
![]() | Quote:
graduations are marks along the container to indicate volume. A jug does not "graduate" at the top. I appreciate your willingness to help though, and I think when I do a larger batch I'll be using wiper fluid jugs as I have plenty. For a smaller (128g) batch of bark powder, and also what will be my first go at it, I think I'll use a 32 oz nalgene water bottle. I like the shape and I was looking at nalgene labware online and at room temperature it will not react with lye or naptha, or heptane. At 50 degrees celsius naptha will begin to react to it after seven continuos days of contact, but it can be used to store solvents at room temps. google up nalgene solvent wash bottles and/or nalgene labware. | |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
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[QUOTE=StheNC;794199]Graduate doesn't mean "get skinny" graduations are marks along the container to indicate volume. A jug does not "graduate" at the top. oops dah my bad, not thinkings straight . Yea I use pyrex beakers that have the measures, I measure desireded amount of solvent in there and then poor into hdpe jug. for the gallon size hdpe when doing an a/b, I concentrate the aqueous of a kilo size batch enough to do everything in that one jug (add more bassified water and naptha) when doing a stb I fill 3/4 full of h20, basify and add a pound of mhrb. IF you do decide to go with the nalgene, let us know how it goes . might want to basify in another container or do it really slowly, cause just a little bit of NAOH to water will have a exothermic reaction.
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