trying to convert vovin's tek to 1lb extraction?

[Bkultra]

I have been working on converting vovin's tek to handle a 1lb extraction (or as close to it as i can). I know that i will have to make all glassware 4000ml instead of 500ml. my question is since my glassware is 8x the orginal (500ml) could i just multiply all the chems and bark amount by 8 as well (MHRB,Water,Naphtha,Hydrochloric Acid,Lye,and Sodium Carbonate). I want to make sure that I will have no problems fitting all the solutions into my 4000ml glassware. If you foursee any problems with doing the extraction like this or in this size plz let me know. I also would like to know the main differences between Marsofold's and vovin's extraction. I know that it will cost a lot more for all the things needed to do vovin's compaired to Marsofold's but will one make a cleaner end result? Thanks for all your help as always.


Something like this below (does this look ok do you see any problems)?

[Bkultra]

Step 1: Breaking Down the Root

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used: 400 Grams


It is absolutely essential that you break down the root to as fine material as possible. The result of this process will directly effect the amount of DMT you will extract.

One of the best way's I have found to break down the root is to cut it into small pieces with a pair of scissors. Then freeze the root for 4 hours in a freezer. This makes the root very hard and brittle. Place the root into a blender. I highly recommend a Glass blender (600w recommended, but 450w will work) instead of a plastic. The coarseness of the root will scar the plastic blender a great deal and you will have a small amount of very fine plastic in your bark.

Once you have sufficiently powdered your bark you will end up with 2 materials. One the powder, the second will be a tuft of very fine fibers. Don't handle or disturb the material any more than you have to. The powder gets into the air easily thus reducing the material. You will be using the powder and the fibrous material in your extractions.

Photo 1& 2: Mimosa as it was shipped to me. AA battery has been placed in the image to give a sense of size.

Photo 3: Mimosa before it was put into the blender notice that I have cut it into small pieces to make it easier for the blender to handle.

Photo 4: After several minutes in the blender. Notice that there is powder and fiber. This is normal.


Step 2: Extraction

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used: 400 Grams-Powdered
Distilled Water: 4800ml Adjusted to a pH of 4 using Hydrochloric Acid - 3 batches

In this next step you will be removing the DMT molecule from the bark. To do this you will create an acidic solution and add it to the root bark. It is very important that you do not overheat the bark material. Heat will break down the DMT and cause a loss in yield.

First place around 4800ml of distilled water in a glass or stainless steel cooker (NO ALUMINUM). Once the water has begun to simmer place a couple drops of hydrochloric acid into the pot. It only takes a few drops to get the pH down to 4. Don't overdo it.

Check the pH. If it is too high then add more acid. If it is too low add more water. Your goal is to have a solution with pH 4. If you allow the water to simmer for a long period of time recheck the pH level before adding it to the root bark.

Place the ground up mimosa from step 1 into jar A. Slowly add the acidified water solution to Jar A using a turkey baster. You want it to be enough water to completely cover the bark material but you don't want too much water because it will make latter steps more difficult. You probably won't use all 4800ml. I used a little more then 2400ml for each extraction. But it's good to have the extra water on hand just in case.

Shake the contents vigorously and allow this material to soak for 45 minutes. Occasionally stir the material. While it is soaking make another batch of acidified water the same way as mention before. Have it warm and read to use. To keep the first flask, Jar A warm use a second pot to boil up some regular water. Place the flask into the pot. This is called a heat bath. It will keep a constant warm temperature for a long while. You may need to reheat the water after awhile. Don't place the heat bath on the stove with the Jar A still inside remove it and reheat the water then place it back into the bath.

After 45 minutes strain the material in Jar A into Jar D (Jar D is the jar attached to the Buchner Filter). Place a filter cloth in the buchner filter head and use the hand pump to cause a vacuum in the jar. This will force the liquid down into the jar and the plant material will be caught in the filter. Try to make sure you get as much of the liquid out of the bark as possible. Once the bark has been strained sufficiently place it immediately into Jar B. Add the newly acidified water to jar B. Allow jar B to soak for 45 minutes.

As Jar B soaks prepare a third batch of acidified water same as above. Once Jar B has soaked for 45 minutes place the contents of it on the filter of Jar D and filter the liquid out. Place the bar material in Jar C and add the newly acidified water to is same as you have done before. Allow it to soak for 45 minutes.

After 45 minutes use the buchner filter set up on Jar D to filter the contents of Jar C. The resulting liquid for all 3 extraction's can now be added into one jar so place them all into jar C now. Now to make sure we got rid of all of the plant material we are going to place a round filter in the buchner filter (D) and filter this liquid again. The result will be your bark solution. Slowly pour the contents of Jar C into the head of the filter. Do not put a lot of the liquid into the funnel at once. You will most likely need to swap filters several times as the pores of the filter becomes clogged with sediment. Once you are done filtering place the liquid back into Jar C.

Photo 1: The powder is placed into the first flask

Photo 2: Once the Distilled water is heated and adjusted to a pH of 4 we add just enough of it to cover the bark material in the flask.

Photo 3: The flask is then placed in a pot of hot water. This will keep it warm For the duration of the soak. Notice I have placed a piece of cling wrap on the top of the flask. This ensures no water will evaporate and will prevent accidental spilling. I have poked a small hole in the wrap to allow ventilation. Remove the flask every few minutes and shake. The stove is not on when I have the flask in the pot. I remove the flask and reheat the water in the pot when it cools down.

Step 3: Reducing and Decanting

Acidic liquid

Place Jar C into the refrigerator to sit overnight. This is commonly called fridge decanting. In the morning you will see a layer of sludge on the bottom of your container. This is sediment that was so fine it passed through your filters in the previous step. But now it has settled and clumped together. Set up the buchner filter once again and run your liquid thru it. Since the sediment is all clumped together it will now catch in the filter much easier. Usually after doing this step I get an extremely clear liquid that I can easily see thru. If you don't and you have the time try decanting in the fridge again and re filtering.

Now that you have the acidic liquid decanted you want to reduce it down to a workable size. This step may not be necessary if you have the equipment large enough to handle the amount of liquid you have x 2 (the basifying procedure will make the volume increase roughly times 2). You will need to place all of the liquid in a glass casserole dish and place it in the oven and turn it to its lowest setting. Warm the solution. Again keep it warm do not overheat it. This will be a very slow process and will most likely take an hour or two. You should be trying to wind up with around 4000ml of solution. Check the solution every 15 minutes to make sure it is not getting too hot.

If you get a film forming over your solution you most likely reduced it down too much add a little distilled water to the solution and remove it from the oven.

Once you have reduced the liquid down to around 4000ml you can place it into Jar A. I have found the safest way to transfer the solution is with the turkey baster Just suck it from the casserole dish and put it into the jar. If your try to pour the liquid even with a funnel it can sometimes spill.

Photo 3: After you have filtered the material. You will need to place the extracted water into the fridge to sit overnight. You can't see it well in this picture but at the bottom there is a thin film of sludge. This is tiny particles that made it through the filter.

Photo 1& 2: After removing the sludge place the liquid into a glass baking dish and place it in the oven set on the lowest setting. After it has reduced a decent amount you can put it back into a flask and measure how much liquid you have. I was able to reduce down to just a little over 4000ml.

Step 4: Defatting

Extracted liquid
Naphtha 800ml X 3

Some people choose not to defat their extractions. Usually this is the reason why you get an oily result instead of crystals. To get pure crystals you have to defat. You will be doing 3 defats. The process is the same each time.

Place your extraction into the separatory funnel. Add 800ml of warm naphtha. DO NOT warm the naphtha directly it is very flammable. The best way to do this is put it into a flask and place that flask into hot water for a few minutes, a heat bath.

Once the naphtha is added you will need to stir the mixture. You can do this by turning the separatory funnel end over end making sure that the cork at the top is in control and will not fall out. I usually tape it on rather thoroughly; keep in mind you will need to allow the air to escape every couple minutes. What I usually do is turn the funnel upside down and open the valve at the bottom for a couple seconds to vent. Do not shake the separatory funnel. If you do you will trap air in the naphtha and it will be very difficult to get a separation. Turn it end over end for around 5 minutes.

After you have sufficiently mixed the contents sit it in a stand and let it sit still until there is a distinct separation between the naphtha and the extract. This could take up to several hours sometimes. To speed up the process try running hot water like in a shower or sink if it's big enough, over your separatory funnel and allow the mixture to sit for a few more minutes. This should get the separation to work. Make sure none of the water gets into the separatory funnel. You will also need to remove the cork and allow air to escape from the container. I usually put a piece of cling wrap on the top with a couple small holes punched in it. This allows venting without evaporation.

Once the materials have separated place a flask at the bottom of the funnel and open the valve. You will need to close the valve quickly when it reaches the naphtha. You should now have your extraction in a flask and the naphtha in the funnel. You can discard the naphtha and begin the process again. You will need to do this 3 times. Be sure to clean your funnel well between defats.

After you have finished the third defat you are ready to continue on to the next step.

Photo 1: A picture of the separatory funnel with naphtha just added. I haven't mixed the liquids yet.

Photo 2: One of the first things I do is tape down the cap of the funnel so that I don't have to worry about it falling off as I tip it to stir the liquids together. I prefer to tip end over end instead of shaking because it creates a whole lot less bubbles.

Photo 3: After mixing the liquids for a few minutes you can see that there are quite a few bubbles in the naphtha. Running the funnel under hot water for a few minutes will help get rid of these pesky little troublemakers. If you’re separatory funnel won't fit into the sink use the shower.

Photo 4:
Once the liquids have separated sufficiently I will open the bottom valve of the separatory funnel and drain out the extract, cutting it off right when it reaches the naphtha.

Step 5: Basifying

Defatted extraction
Distilled Water
Lye crystals

You will need to prepare a base solution by taking 1600ml of warm distilled water and adding lye to it. Lye is a very volatile material so be very careful with it. Add very small amounts of lye to the water and stir it well. Test the pH often. You are aiming for a pH of 13.4. Once you have the pH at the desired level. Bring out your extraction and place it into the separatory funnel. You will now be adding this lye water to your extraction. Do so in small quantities. Very slowly and while stirring the extraction. I usually hold the funnel in one hand rotating it so as to create a whirlpool effect in the funnel and use the other hand to add the base.

You will notice that the liquid will become gray in color and will eventually turn black, this is normal. Check the pH of your extraction. You are trying to reach a pH level of 13.4. Keep adding the lye water to the extraction until you reach this pH, but stir well to ensure an accurate measurement.

At some point you will probably need to split your liquid because the volume has gotten too big and you cannot add any more base solution. It's totally fine to do this if you need to. This is what I had to do between steps 4 and 5 in the pictures.

Once you have gotten a pH level of 13.4 you will need to shake the container by turning end over end. Every couple of seconds stop and release the air that has built up.

The extraction will now look like a thick black tar like liquid. Double-check the pH level of your liquid and make sure the pH level is 13.4. You have now completed the basifying procedure.

Photos 1-7: Here are some images of the basifying procedure as the process carries on. You can easily see where the liquid turns from dark red to gray than to a brownish black.

Photo 8: After adding the base solution to your extract you will have quite a bit of liquid. It over doubled my extraction size which was previously only 4400ml. Now it takes up 2 flasks.

Step 6: Extracting the DMT

Basified liquid
Naphtha 800ml X3 (6 if you had to split your liquid in half during basification)

The time has now come to extract the DMT from the solution. You will be doing this step 3 times to make sure you have gotten all of the DMT you can. Keep your fingers crossed your in the home stretch now.

Place 800ml of warm naphtha into the separatory funnel. Tape the cap down and mix the liquids by turning the funnel end over end. Release the bottom valve every few seconds to let off any built up vapor. You need to make sure the liquids are thoroughly mixed and that the naphtha has come in contact with all of the extract. At this point the DMT is making a move from the extraction to the naphtha.

After stirring well allow the funnel to separate until you can see 2 distinct layers. On top will be the naphtha that now contains the DMT. On the bottom will be your basified extract. Usually it takes some time before the liquids separate completely and a definite line can be seen between the two. You can help this process along by doing a hot bath. Place the funnel into the sink or shower and run hot water over it for about 10 minutes. Then allow the funnel to sit for awhile and you should get a good separation. If not reheat the funnel again and perform the same procedure.

You will now need to drain off the extraction. One very important thing here is to get all of the naphtha you can without getting any of the extract. If you get the black extract in the naphtha then this will end up in your final product and this is not good. I usually cut the valve off a little late in the first two separations just to be safe. Any naphtha that is left in the extractions on the first 2 will carry over into the third and thus there is no worry of loss. The third separation is where you will need to be very careful to get all the naphtha as possible without getting any of the extraction.

Once you have drained off the extraction place another flask at the bottom of the funnel and drain off the naphtha. This is one of the few times I do not recommend cleaning your funnel between processes. Some naphtha will stick inside the funnel and this time it has DMT in it so try to keep it. Now re insert the extract and add a fresh batch of naphtha and repeat the process.

Once you have all 3 of the naphtha liquids extracted from the process let it sit and see if any of the black extraction has made it into your product. If it has then you need to get it out.

You are now ready to do a wash.

Photo 1& 2: After adding the naphtha to the basified solution and mixing I ran hot water over the funnel for several minutes. This really helps get the separation. After that I let it set for about 15 minutes. Look how sharp the line between the naphtha and the basified solution is. There are still a few big bubbles but they can be popped with a copper wire easily.

Step 7: Washing

Naphtha from step 6
Distilled Water
Sodium Carbonate

This is a somewhat new process that is not found in many of the older tek's. This process will try to remove as many of the foreign chemicals from the naphtha solution as possible. Especially the lye that was added in a previous step. The goal here is to leave only the DMT in the naphtha so that when you evaporate you end up with pure crystals.

Begin by taking about 400ml of Distilled water and placing it into a flask and adding sodium carbonate to it. Just add a pinch to the water. It doesn't take much. You will only be using this mixture for the first wash. Do not use it for the second and third washes.

A little dab will do yah here, add only a small amount of the water/sodium carbonate solution to your naphtha. If you have 2400ml of naphtha then you want to put around 200ml of the sodium carbonated water. Mix the 2 together and then place them in a separatory funnel. Shake the hell out of it this is the only mixing step where the liquids separate almost immediately so no worries about too much agitation. Separate the water from the naphtha and discard the water.

For the second and third washes you want to use only distilled water nothing should be added. 200ml per wash is sufficient. Perform the same procedure as above. You should not leave the water in the naphtha for too long. This means no sitting for hours letting it 'soak' you need to get it in and out.

Photo 1: After a healthy shaking the water and the naphtha almost immediately separate. Only if all separations were this easy. The water is on the bottom of the funnel.

Photo 2: After 3 washes the naphtha is clear as glass.

Step 8-A: Evaporation

Naphtha from step 7

Note: There are 2 ways to get the DMT out of your solvent. This step will have a higher yield but the other will result in a purer product as well as enable you to reuse the naphtha. The other process is below.


This is the final stage. Pour the naphtha that you have collected into a glass baking dish. You will now need to let this stuff evaporate. I do not recommend attempting to speed along the process by having a fan blow over the dish. This will cause dust and small insects to get caught in the naphtha.

Patience is a virtue. You need to take your time on this step and let the naphtha evaporate naturally. Lately I have placed a cloth T-shirt over the baking dish. Tape the sides down so that it doesn't fall into the naphtha. This doesn't cause much of an issue with the evaporation as the cotton is porous, and it guarantees that there will be no dust or bugs in your final material. I have heard some people taping a paper towel over the dish to keep out this stuff.

When looking for a place to evaporate remember to keep it away from any and all electrical devices such as motors. These items give off sparks which can ignite the fumes. And of course keep the naphtha out of reach of open flames as well.

The bad thing about evaporating the naphtha is that it smells. So if you are trying to do this in a house or apartment where you don't want others to know you are in for a challenge.

Depending on the volume of naphtha and the size of you evaporation dish it can take anywhere from a few day to 2 weeks for the naphtha to evaporate. Once the naphtha has completely evaporated you will need to take a razor blade and scrape all of the crystals off of the baking dish. Get them all now.

If you are impatient you can speed up the process by using a fan and a large Rubbermaid storage container. The containers are usually 5-10 dollars at Wal-Mart. People use them to store clothes usually. Cut 2 holes in each end and cover the holes with a thin cloth. Place the fan and the evap dish in the container and close the lid. This will keep out any foreign particles and still speed up the evaporation. This can be placed outside so the fumes can dissipate easily.

Photo 1: Now comes the hard part, Waiting. I have placed the naphtha in the casserole dish to evaporate. Keep your fingers crossed.

Step 8-B: Freeze Seperation

The following process was discovered by 23. The process is relatively simple to perform and basically results in a recrystallization process which is known to yield a very pure final product.

The only big issue here is that you need to use as little naphtha as possible during your 7th step. When crystallizing there needs to be a degree of saturation in the solvent or super saturation. If there is more solvent than product not all the DMT will fall out. So the key is to use as little solvent as possible 800ml or less per extract, maybe the last extract use 400ml. So during step 7 make sure your chemicals are very warm this will increase their ability to absorb DMT. Cold solvent won't absorb as much as warm solvent.

After you crystallize out of the solvent and filter out the crystals put the solvent back into the fridge to extract a second yield. After placing a flask with the spent solvent in the freezer that there are more crystals in there now. So do this a few times till there are no more crystals forming in the solvent. Maybe if you just leave it in the freezer for a few days all the crystals will solidify out, but always double check. You can reuse this solvent for 3 or more extractions. This will save you money as well as at a later time you can evap it off to get any of the remaining DMT although it will most likely be less pure than the original.

As you can see in step 1 you need to place all of the solvent in an airtight container. This is essential if you place it in the freezer open ice will form and as it melts it will get into your naphtha.

After 24 hours in the freezer you can remove the container. Then use a metal object to break the crystals from the side of the container. You must keep the fluid cold as possible. If it begins to warm place it back into the freezer. If it gets warm then it will redissolve the DMT.

Once you have filtered all of the solvent you can scrape the DMT off the filter paper. If you want you can allow the paper to dry this makes the crystals easier to remove.

Place the solvent back into the freezer for 24 hours and see if any more crystals will fall out. If so repeat the separation process.

After the separation store the naphtha in a container. You can use this at a later time for your next extraction.

Photo 1: After the solvent is removed from the freezer. Pour the solvent off quickly now or it will redissolve the DMT as it warms.

Photo 2: You can see that the DMT has fallen out of the solvent.

Photo 3: Take a small metal item and break the crystals loose from the edge of the container.

Photo 4: Now you will use a buchner filter to separate the DMT from the solvent. If the liquid has begun to warm too much. Place it back into the freezer. You want it to stay cold so the DMT does not redisolve.

Photo 5: Place the solvent into the filter and perform the separation.

Photo 6: Scrape the crystals from the filter paper.

Photo 7: All Done

Step 9: Solvent Wash

This is something I have just recently developed. Even if you follow the tek above perfectly a small amount of basified solution will make it into your final result. This basified solution contains LYE which is extremely harsh to smoke. By doing this solvent wash after you have scrapped up the crystals you can virtually eliminate all of the lye in your final result as well as many other contaminants.

Once you have scrapped up your result from step 8 place it in a small glass container. In another container place a small amount of Naphtha and run hot water over it. You want the naphtha to be warm to the touch.

Once this is done add about 400ml of naphtha to the flask holding the crystals. If this is not enough to dissolve all of the crystals then add a little more. The goal here is to put just enough naphtha into the flask to dissolve the DMT but not too much because you want it to evap quickly. Stir the flask by swirling it around. Do not place anything in the flask as you will disturb the sediment that should build up on the bottom. If the crystals do not want to dissolve then place the flask in a pot of hot water (heat bath). This will make the basified junk gummy and it will loose form and sink to the bottom adhering to the bottom of the flask.

Allow the flask to sit for one minute. Then pour off the naphtha. Once you have gotten all of the naphtha add about 80ml more to the flask and swirl it around. This is to make sure you have gotten all of the spice. You can then add this 80ml to the other 400ml making sure that no sediment from the bottom makes it over. If you feel you still may have DMT in the flask by all means add more naphtha and attempt to dissolve it. There's no rule to how many times you can add naphtha the sediment after being in the heat bath should be stuck to the bottom quite well. So use as much naphtha as you feel is necessary.

You can now evap off the naphtha and recollect your crystals. They should be much cleaner and show a more defined crystalline structure.

If there is still junk you can do a second wash. You should loose very little DMT on each wash so do as many as you need to get a good final result.

Photo 1: I placed the DMT into a 400ml flask to dissolve. When I first acquired this DMT it was very white but over the period of 10 day's it has taken a yellowish tint.

Photo 2& 3: As you can see after the wash there is a layer of crud that has formed on the bottom of the flask. This is base solution that was caught up in the naphtha from step 8 and also some dust from the evap process.

Photo 4: Here is a shot after evap. It's not easy to see in this pic but instead of white crystals they have a much more transparent quality. They also do not turn to powder when scrapped.


The End

[Elf Salvation]

Well i think you will do well with your glassware.

Personaly i use xylene for defatind, It picks up more gunk, do 2 defat's with xylol and 2 with naptha to clean it even more.
Also one could do a preextract with denatured alchohol to lesen volume.

However, foaf, has done ectracts with kilos by freebasing managable amounts of lighuid at a time.

yall do well

[marsofold]

You'll need lotsa jars since the dry fiber volume is gonna be around 2.5-liters.
The somewhat excessive amounts of acidic water won't hurt anything. Just keep the ph at 4 and you'll be OK.
Basifying: 1600ml of water to dissolve the lye is much more water volume than is needed. 400ml is fine. Just keep the final ph at 13.4
Nonpolar extraction with naptha: 2400ml is 10x what is needed for a pound. 300ml total is fine. Don't go over 300ml total unless you're definitely gonna evap it down.
Wash: you gotta use a very BIG pinch of Na2CO3 to scale it up. Like a heaping tablespoon of Na2CO3. The 2nd & 3rd DI water washes must be very COLD to avoid major losses.
For freeze separation with a pound of MHRB no more than 300ml total naptha must be used or the yield will definitely drop.
For the solvent wash no more than 300ml total naptha is necessary, but more can be used if evaporated down.
-------------------
If you get a volume of polar extract over 3000ml, you'll either have to divide it into two parts so it will fit in your 4000ml separatory funnel or boil it down to fit. The final solvent process you use should be freeze-precipitation instead of evaporation if you don't want to risk having a lower-quality product. I'd reverse the order of the last two steps. Solvent wash, THEN freeze-precipitate...

[condo_pygmy]

I'd personally go with mars's tek, It's much faster.
But instead of an ammonia wash do a Soda wash using the sep funnel.
A good soda wash will result in a very clean product.
the naptha alkaloids are poured into the sep funnel at room temp, then the solution of chilled washing soda is added at a 10 to 1 ratio. so if you have 250ml of naptha alkaloids use 25ml of chilled soda wash. the sep funnel is shaken for a few seconds then there're be seperation, the wash being at the bottom, drain the wash then repeat same procedure twice with only chilled distilled water. Once this is done the cleaned alkaloid solution is put into a jar, let sit at room temp for an hour, then into frig for a few hours, then freezer a few hours, back to frig then freezer overnite. this will produce translucent crystals.

[Elf Salvation]

MArs THe man has done extracts on a pound using 800ml np then frove, decanted jar leaving dmt with alittle solvent in jar. He would get very much dmt to pracipitate leaving little or no tryp in the decanted solvent.
Dmt precipitate is left at room temp or warmer to dry. once dry he would redisolve in fresh warm np, addition with a buret funnel . This went into a clean Container to cool and crystalize, such as in a test tube.
After cooling to room temp the container with dmt recrystalizing in it, is place in freazer.
Containner for crystalization is covered during proscess to slow cooling and acheive heavier crystal

[Elf Salvation]

http://dmt.lycaeum.org/wwwthreads/pe...hreads.pl?Cat=


This link gets to the point and has some +++info-- http://dmt.lycaeum.org/wwwthreads/pe...collapsed&sb=5

A little rescource Ye All might be interested in.

[Bkultra]

Ok since everyone has stated "use marsofold's tek" here is what i came up with. Thanks to Marsofold and PissyBee. I have tried to rewrite it so i would understand how to work in all Marsofold's optional tips that were at the end of the tek orgianly.And I also tried to write in when and where to use a sepratory funnel. I also changed to soak time to 30mins (since i have read in alot of your posts that is better). I added a solvent wash (this is a rough draft and I must thank PissyBee here for going the extra mile tring to help me on this one, not sure if i got it right yet ) I did not worry about defatting since his tek does not call for it and most agree it is not needed. condo_pygmy and elf salvation i am intested in your ideas. i do want to get the purest/clearest crystals. So how does this look as a rough draft? Should i still do the soda wash even though i have a solvent wash?

How to easily make DMT:
=======================
Break 1-Pound of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into 1" pieces using new heavy-duty wire cutters, then grind it all up in a glass-topped blender (600w recommended but a 450w will work), a little at a time. (Grind the root bark up to 1mm diameter or smaller. Finer is better)
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Polar Extraction: Premix in an empty 1-Gallon plastic jug: 1-Quart White Vinegar & 3-Quarts Water (shooting for a pH of 4). Put the ground up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crock-pot, and then fill it with 50% of the water-vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on "medium-high". After 30mins, remove the crock-pot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off most of the liquid into a 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container. Add the next 25% of the water-vinegar solution to the crock-pot. Stir well and turn it on "medium-high". After 30mins, remove the crock-pot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again. Repeat one last time using the remaining 25% of the water-vinegar solution. Between each extraction press out the fiber to squeeze the last bit of liquid from it (you might need to let it cool for 20mins). Discard the root bark fiber and save the three combined extractions in the 1-gallon container. Pour this solution into your separatory funnel and allow the vegetable particles to settle to the bottom overnight. Open the valve of the separatory funnel and allow the bottom, dark layer, to pour out. Close the valve once you see a small amount of the clear liquid comes out. Then pour out the clear liquid into an empty 1-Gallon glass wine jug, make sure you don’t have any of the vegetable sludge in the 1-Gallon wine jug. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug.
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Basification: Premix in advance a solution of: 5 heaping Tablespoons (70grams) of Lye (Lowes Hardware, item# 146450 "Roebic Crystal Drain Opener") SLOWLY added to 1-Pint of warm water. Stir well. Slowly add this solution to the jug, and then cap it. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix. Basify to a ph of 13.4. Under basification is the most common reason for a poor yield. If you don't have pH papers or a pH meter, basify till it turns black, then add an additional 25% of whatever amount of basification solution you used. This is to guarantee that you're at a ph of 13.4. The brown foam you see floating on top of the basified extract after tilting the jug should flatten out to a thickness of no more than 1/2" after 45 minutes or so if you've used enough lye. Add a bit more lye and re-tilt the jug to mix if it's thicker than that.
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Nonpolar Extraction: Add 300ml of (Ace Hardware) VM&P Naphtha to the wine jug (add this 100ml at a time in three pulls). After you add each batch of 100ml naphtha gently tilt the wine jug slowly back and forth for 5 full minutes to mix the contents and place this solution into the separatory funnel and allow it to separate (about 4 hours). There should now be two layers visible in the sepratory funnel, a lower dark one and a smaller clear one on top. Again open the valve of the sepratory funnel and allow the dark layer to pour out. Once only the clear top layer remains allow it to pour out into a mason jar. Be careful NOT to get any of the dark layer into the mason jar. -------------------------------------
Solvent Wash: This process will try to remove as many of the foreign chemicals from the naphtha solution as possible. Especially the lye that was added in a previous step. The goal here is to leave only the DMT in the naphtha so that when you evaporate you end up with pure crystals. Add sodium carbonate until it is saturated with the solvent. Gently shake the solution, once you notice that the sodium carbonate is no longer being absorbed then add a little water. Place this in your separatory funnel and separate the two layers (you will be able to tell the water from the solvent very easily). Repeat this and allow it to separate one last time. After this solution is washed take some Epsom salt and spread it on a glass plate very thinly. Then place the plate in the microwave for about 5mins until you see all the moisture bake out, it will get white and fluffy. Remove the plate with a pot holder and use a knife to scrape the salt into a jar. Now shake the jar to get the salt to turn somewhat powdery. Now add this salt (about ½ a tsp) to the solvent. Shake it around and watch it absorb the excess moisture. Now filter it through a coffee filter into a clean dry glass baking pan. Allow this solution to evaporate to 1/3 of its original amount.
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Freeze-precipitation/wash: Cover the baking pan with saran wrap and place it into the FREEZER for 3 days to precipitate the crystals. Quickly lift a corner of the Saran wrap off the pan to pour off all of the naphtha from that corner (the crystals stick to the bottom), quickly reseal the exposed corner with the Saran wrap to keep out moisture, allow the pan to completely warm up to room temperature, remove the Saran wrap and allow the moist crystals to completely dry out, and use a pair of new single-edge razor blades to scrape up all of the crystals from the bottom of the pan. *(Optional wash if you did the solvent wash). Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart mason jar and putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel. Place the crystals you scraped from the glass baking pan into the coffee filter. These crystals may appear to be an impure yellow-white. Allow the crystals to completely dry out on the filter paper in the funnel. Weigh them and use 14ml of chilled ammonium hydroxide per gram of crystals. Chill a bottle of NON-SOAPY clear Ammonium Hydroxide (Ace Hardware Janitorial Strength Ammonia) in a refrigerator. Slowly pour the cold ammonia over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them. Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry out. You will now have 2-1/2 grams of white crystal DMT. Mix it with some dried parsley and smoke a little in your favorite pipe!...Marsofold
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"Add sodium carbonate until it is saturated with the solvent."
Should read, add sodium carbonate or sea salt to water until you have a concentrated sodium carbonate or brine solution (depending on which one you use)... Then you use this to wash your solvent containing your DMT... Everything else seems to look fine... Keep us updated!

Edit: Also, after the three soaks and squeezing out the bark to get all the juice, I place it in the fridge overnight and all the tiny particles that are still soluble in the hot water sink as it cools... You can then pour the juice off of the top slowly through a t-shirt filter and your solution will be much cleaner and the emulsions will settle out much easier, later in the seperating process...

[marsofold]

Here are my last-minute recommendations:
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Polar extraction:
#1 Always turn the crockpot on "HIGH" under all circumstances. The power level on crockpots is limited and every watt is needed.

#2 I don't disagree with the 30 minute soak, but this time interval assumes that the water is already at or near simmering temperatures. That just won't happen in 30 minutes using any crockpot. You should begin the time count AFTER the water is visibly simmering. I believe that won't begin to happen for around an hour on "HIGH". Which will probably total to around 90 minutes. The 2nd and 3rd pulls will probably be faster since the crockpot is already hot, and the total would probably be closer to 75 minutes. In any case, I'd recommend watching the crockpot for simmering, THEN start timing off the 30 minutes for that pull.
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Basification: you only need to add the 25% if you don't have a scale to weigh the lye. 70 grams is correct. Here is the math to reach a ph of 13.4... the lye's reaction with the acidic acid is: HC2H3O2 + NaOH --> NaC2H3O2 + H2O. The molecular weights of acidic acid and lye are 60grams and 40grams respectively. So for the prior equation the acid neutralizes 2/3 of its weight in lye. A liter of white vinegar weighs about 1000grams. At 5% acidity that equates to 50grams of acidic acid. Which neutralizes 50grams x 2/3 = 33grams of lye. So actually, of the 70grams used for basification 33grams is lost to the reaction with the vinegar. That leaves for the ph change: 70grams - 33grams = 37grams lye. Since after basification you end up just under a gallon of liquid and since a gallon is 3785ml, you basically have 37grams of lye in a solution of 3.7Liters volume. The following web site automatically calculates ph values for you:

http://www.sensorex.com/support/educ...alculator.html

If you select "sodium hydroxide" and input values of 37grams and 3.7Liters, it calculates for you a ph of: ta-daaa... 13.4!!! So 70grams total lye is correct.
Generally better to err on the side of slightly more lye, not less.
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Non-Polar Extraction: 300ml is OK. Not worth arguing about, but I thought you'd like to know the history of the method. The person who first posted the freeze-precipitation method (on Vovin's site) was "23", the moderator there. He also posted that he recommended using 600mls of naptha with a kilogram of MHRB. That calculates out to 273mls for a pound of MHRB (600ml/2.2 = 273ml). So the original discoverer of this method actually recommends 273mls for a pound. I recommend 250mls with newbies because they usually underextract, which brings the optimum amount down a little. 273mls is probably perfect for experienced extractors.
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Solvent Wash: your method is actually taken from Loki, the former mod of DMTworld. The only thing I'd recommend (never having tried it) is to limit the wash volume to 10% of the naptha volume. If you use 300mls, that's 30mls of solution per wash. Condo_pygmy has done alot of washing by this method and recommends using 10% of the naptha volume and I trust his judgement. The epsom salt thing is entirely Loki's method and I have no personal info on it. It should be OK.
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Boy, and I thought that I was a worrywart! You've got me beat on that hands-down. Actually, I'll be very interested to find out your yield and hear your subjective quality report. $21 a pound for MHRB is suspiciously cheap. If all comes out well I might order some myself...

[Bkultra]

just got up and thanks for the proff reading guys i will make the changes PissyBee and Marsofold. What do you think about doing a soda was as sugested? Do you think it will make for a purer product or would it be ok kil since i have a solvent was added into the tek.

[Bkultra]

Originally Posted by pissybee

"Add sodium carbonate until it is saturated with the solvent."
Should read, add sodium carbonate or sea salt to water until you have a concentrated sodium carbonate or brine solution (depending on which one you use)... Then you use this to wash your solvent containing your DMT... Everything else seems to look fine... Keep us updated!

Just a guess but once i add the sc/brine solution to my solvent but do i have to turn the container end over end again to mix the two solutions?

Originally Posted by pissybee

"You can then pour the juice off of the top slowly through a t-shirt filter and your solution will be much cleaner and the emulsions will settle out much easier, later in the seperating process.

would'nt i just pour all the solution through the t-shirt and not just the top layer since im straining it through the shirt?

[marsofold]

Sodium Carbonate is much preferred over the use of brine for washing the naptha. This is because, although both are sodium ion solutions, sodium carbonate raises the ph up to around 11, which helps keep the DMT in freebase form and maintains the yield. The reason you want to decant (pour off the water from the sludge) and filter the liquid first is that the sludge will clog the filter (the t-shirt) if it is immediately poured into the filter with the liquid. After you've filtered all of the liquid, you can put the sludge in the t-shirt and squeeze out whatever liquid you can through it to get a little more extract...