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| | #53 (permalink) |
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| Jackal, i dont at this time have a ruffobrunea specimen, if i get one youre first on my list- re: grey morel live tissue.....i consulted a friend and i think overnight shipping you a fresh picked specimen is the best idea...pm me and we will work out the details- re: the types of morels i sent in your prize package- i sent all three kinds, blacks , greys and yellows. I basically gave you everything i had saved from last season. If you like spread them out and take a picture, email it to me and i can point out the different types for you. if i remember correctly there should be 1/2 a dried grey in the mix thats huge....even dried. it may have been the largest grey i ever personally picked. anything else i can do to help- just ask ![]() |
| | #54 (permalink) | |||
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
Quote:
One open question for the morel gurus is why it is that you apparently cannot go straight to LC with the dried morel tissue and must use agar instead. FYI, here is a helpful technique from Morelman at the shroomery regarding how to clean infected morel LC: Quote:
Cheers! | |||
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| | #56 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
"Morels do very well in LC. The growth rates are phenomenal. Adding activated carbon to a Morel LC helps a lot. I've seen dessicated tissue, completely re-hydrated in peroxide, sprout mycelium within a week." would seem to suggest you could go directly to LC from re-hydrated morel tissue. | |
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| | #60 (permalink) |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | The morel jar seems to be getting cob web mold. The morel mycobag has growth that is off white and almost pinkish. Not sure if this is also some sort of contam. The morel LC liquid became non-clear also indicating bacterial cotam, but then somehow seems to be recovering. |
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| | #62 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
As far as the mycobag, the color maybe orange-ish, instead of pink-ish. It's not green (yet), but definitely not a bright white, which is what I was expecting. Worst case, will try again, as I have plenty of substrate that can be prepared. | |
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| | #66 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | Yup TheJackal, no worries there. That is Morel mycelium. It sure looks to be the same color as the test tube I have of Black Morel culture. Great going. ![]()
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| | #69 (permalink) |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Thanks guys! The bag is colonizing slowly it seems at the prescribed temp of 70F, but the prescribed incubation run is 4-6 weeks ending at 6/2-6/16, so I will remain hopeful. Of course this is the first of many more complicated steps to come, so my chances of success are still minimal. Bad odds have never stopped me before and I will keep you posted. The next step is to prepare the "supersoil" for the spawn run. Also, considering using the data I have captured with the computer to determine the timing for timers for running the cool mist, a/c, etc., so that during any of the critical stages I will not have to rely on the computer, which can and does take a dump every once in a while. Cheers! Jackal |
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| | #70 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Here is a comment received at the shroomery regarding the morel jar looking contamed: Quote:
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| | #71 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | As far as I know he is correct. You're doing a great job. Hell getting a morel culture to run is a task to say the least. But with your determination, I'm sure you'll do fine.
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| | #73 (permalink) |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Let the morel agar work begin! Just ordered some: Rose Bengal Agar Plates Description: 1.0% Glucose, 0.5% peptone, 0.1% potassium phosphate (monobasic, anhydrous), 0.05%magneium sulfate, heptahydrate, 0.003% Rose bengal, and 2.0% agar. Applications: Used for isolating fungi. Designed to suppress bacterial growth. Hope these work out! |
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| | #74 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | The antibiotic agar is a great thing to have. You can be sure after a run in that the culture should be pretty clean. And I'm really waiting to see the outcome of this experiment. I have so many "irons in the fire" so to speak that I just don't have the time or space for an experiment like this. And as I said before if this doesn't go well and you need a culture, just PM me and there'll be one coming your way.
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| | #75 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
BTW, nice new lab set up you have! Cheers! Jackal | |
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| | #77 (permalink) |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | I will need some guidance on long term storage of isolated myc from agar plates. My understanding is that you keep transferring good myc candidates until no more sectoring occurs and then store and/or use that isolated myc for substrate innoc, etc. Read about storing culture slants, but was wondering if the agar plates could just as easily be stored instead for later use. All help appreciated and thanks in advance! Cheers! Jackal BTW, running the simulated rain version 2.0 24/7 to help keep the humidity up in the greenhouse and that works great. Now, have no problem maintaining 90% RH at 70F with this method and the ultrasonic and cool mist do not have to work very hard. The problem was that the A/C kept flushing out all of the humidity to maintain 70F. The problem now is that when I sit next to the greenhouse the sounds of the simulated rain makes me want to take a leak! |
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| | #78 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | Well, I only take the strongest, fastest colonizing plates for transfers. Usually it's 1 0f the best 3 of 10. As to "slants" I use antibacterial Malt Extract Agar. and use only 1/2 the amount of water. That way you have a good nutrition base for your culture, and it's protected a bit from contams. Plus it sets up nice and holds it's "slant". Plates, even when covered with film will last about 3 - 4 months with a GOOD chance of viability under proper conditions. Now I know it can last longer, but that is a fair estimate. A slant can last well over 3 yrs, but viability begins to decline about 16 - 18 mos in. But at a much slower rate. When sealed and stored at 34°F. Hope that helps.
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| | #79 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
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| | #80 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | Not to sure if a sponsor here sells it. But I get mine from xxx. That's FungiPerfecti's site. And when you do it. Fill the test tubes first and then sterilize them, then just lean them up against something till they solidify.
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| | #81 (permalink) | |
| Cunning Linguist Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 684
![]() | Quote:
What kind of test tubes are you using? I have some with rubber self sealing injection port tops. Looks like I need the screw cap type? Details of your procedure would be most helpful in view of my agar newbness. I do have a PC and the above-noted rubber stopper test tubes. Was thinking of using polyfil during the PCing of the tubes and then putting back on the rubber stoppers, which also will be PCd. However, lack of air exchange may be a problem with the rubber stoppers. | |
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| | #82 (permalink) |
| VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 868
![]() | Slants Well I use test tubes that are 125x25mm with screw on caps. I think the pressure in the tube would blow the rubber stoppers off. But I'm not sure. Then I mix 40gms of the Antibiotic Malt Extract Agar with 500ml of water. I use our tap, but our well is in a spring. Then use a turkey baster to fill the tt about 1/3 of the way. There is no need for sterilizing the baster, as long as it's clean it's OK. I then screw the caps on kinda tight. I then sterilize for 45 min @ 15psi. When it comes down to pressure and cools enough to handle. I wash my hands, then use 70% alcohol to kind rinse them again. I then take the rack, or what ever you have to use, and tip it in front of the Laminar flow hood. You can also do this in any clean area where you do your work. I use 2 canning rings and it holds it at about 55° angle. There you have a good surface area so grow your culture on. Then after inoculated I seal the tubes with parafilm and store in the refrigerator.
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