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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 286
![]() | I just found out that FOF aquired some pan cyans spores a couple months ago. Said they haven't been exposed to any heat or anything and they look like some of the spores have clumped together in the syringe or something. I decided that I couldn't pass this strain up. Question 1: do you think they're still good? Question 2: I read on the shroomery that with some adjustments they can be inoculated using the pf tek method then cased. Can someone verify this? I've only used the pf tek with B+, so any tips would be appreciated. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| The Lost Join Date: Apr 1972
Posts: 1,359
![]() ![]() | spores if properly stored can last years if you go into the archives.. find waylitjim's pan cyan tek it's basicaly brf cakes with poo already mixed in it is probibly the easiest pan tek you'll find or you can grow them out on plan brf cakes and use that as spawn for bulk substrate, but they will not fruit off plan brf cakes, they require some sort of bulk substate also pan cyan require a bit more attention then cubies, if you are working with a tub setup then you will need to increase fanning, probibly 2-3 times more often then you are doing with cubies, that is one reason green houses are recommended for this species. lost
__________________ Plant a seed, It will grow, So it's been, Sow the show To think outside the box, sometimes it is nessecary to step, outside the box |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Mushroom Muncher Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 496
![]() | I've heard equine (donkey/horse) manure is a bit better for this than the standard bovine manure. Shouldn't be hard to get, tho... just find a stable in your area and ask to go shovel some to take home for your garden. It's what I do... if they're not doing anything with it, they'll surely not mind giving some up.
__________________ "Why" is the only question that bothers people enough to have an entire letter of the alphabet named after it. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I have a question WayLitJim, I am attempting to fruit some Pan Cyan Australian's from straw in one cased aluminum foil bread pan, and your Modified PF Tek recipe w/h-poo cased in another. I have been trying for a while to get the cased straw to pin and eventually fruit. I am growing in a 64qt Sterilite Container kept at 83f with a RH of 93%, it is forced humidified and air exchanged with a TropicAire and a 60 Gallon Air Pump. I just put the Tray in the terrarium with your PF Method after incubating 48 hours. I am using a 60/40 Verm/Coir Casing with no buffers. With my cased straw recipe I cannot get it to pin for the life of me. Should I keep this tray and keep trying? I applied some new casing to the tray, being as the prior casing had been taken over. Am I spinning my wheels, or will I be able to salvage this with a transfer to H-poo/Verm/BRF mix? Thanks to all ![]() |
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 67
![]() | Quote:
Last edited by Hippie3 : 01-23-08 at 14:01. | |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | Cool, and thank you rip I have 3 large bags of Pan Cyan spawn that Im about to case in some trays, I will try the Verm / Peat Moss Casing. Coir seems to work great with Cubes ime, but I am venturing into new territory. Thanks again! |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Grateful Mod Join Date: Sep 1972
Posts: 3,936
![]() ![]() | For the casing I used a 50/50 blend vermiculite and cactus soil. The casing layer contained quite a bit of nutrient, and performed better than a non-nutritious casing. It was a blend of peat moss, earthworm castings, bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and alfalfa meal. Calcium carbonate was also included. Everyone has different results, this is just what worked for me. |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I am pastuerizing in those kickass Reynolds Aluminum pockets, I have one large one sitting inside of my PC with the top off, filled with water a fifth of the way (a lil more than a gallon). The bag is kept off the bottom with the canning rack (and buoyancy), the water temp is kept around 170 for 2 hrs, which I monitor with a thermo. |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| The Lost Join Date: Apr 1972
Posts: 1,359
![]() ![]() | pans require alot of fresh air how many times a day is the air getting circulated?
__________________ Plant a seed, It will grow, So it's been, Sow the show To think outside the box, sometimes it is nessecary to step, outside the box |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I would imagine it is getting fully refreshed a few times an hour, I am running a 60 gallon aquarium air pump with a 55 gallon capacity reptile Air Exchanger/Humidifier 24/7 into a 64qt terrarium. If I knew the (cfm) I would be able to tell you exacts. |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I have a question regarding how you water the casing for Pans, with cubes I have always watered the sh** out of the casing after applying a thin layer, incubating for 48 hrs. then, I water it really good again when it goes in the terrarium. If I see an abundance of overlay I tend to water it really well again then I leave it be. When Pinning I would inject water into the bottom verm layer roughly 10cc at a time, and continue to inject throughout the fruiting with out spraying the casing. I know there are many schools of thought on misting pins and when to stop if/and how much to mist them. I am looking to get a nice pinset and not ruin this batch, or else back to sporeworks for Goliath this time instead of the Aussies. |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 286
![]() | due to a shitty work schedule I am still getting my shit together. I picked up some bagged composted cow manure mixed with humus at the garden store. My question is, do I still need to soak it overnight? It seems plenty moist to me. Also, I couldn't find hydrated lime so I bought "garden lime" it says it's safer than hydrated somehow. But other than that I decided to go with waylit's tek, except I'm going to borrow the concept from hippies' "casing for dummies" tek and use gladware containers instead of fruiting them from the jars. So we'll see how it works. Waylit, I'm also curious of the details of your pasturization technique. |
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| | #21 (permalink) | |
| Grateful Mod Join Date: Sep 1972
Posts: 3,936
![]() ![]() | Quote:
Very simple, using a pillow case, submerge the casing mixture in a hot water bath for 1 hr. Keep the water temp around 160 F. | |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 286
![]() | it's called Espona Garden Lime, and I just found out it's dolomitic. FUCK! Thanks for the info about the past. technique though, This is why I check with the mycotopiates. Is it worth trying the bagged shit in your opinion? I want to get it right the first time. |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | ime, the bagged poo is either too high in nitrogen, or too high in sodium (steer manure usually). Many have tried the bagged stuff with mixed success. I live in the Desert and I have no problem finding the h-poo from local horse owners, I tell them its for my garden. Also, I have heard of others looking around Craig's List and local papers for free poo, if they have it they definitely want to get rid of it |
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| | #27 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | Best of luck on your search! I have some pics of the progress since casing the Pan Cyan Aussies on Saturday afternoon. The Panaeolus' are the two foil trays on the bottom right and the third in the top left corner. You can see the mycelium peeking out through the casing. Should I just let it be? -The others are PESH and Malabar Coast. All Cased h-poo with the exception of the Double Cased PF Cakes. |
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| | #30 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I wanted to give everybody an update on the Aussie Pan's. Day 5 and no visible pins; I do have very beautiful, slight overlay on the casing though. RH is 98, temps are an average of 82. Should I apply the normal (cubes) pinning teks, lower temps, avoid direct misting...? I will include pics tommorow. ![]() |
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| | #31 (permalink) | |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 67
![]() | Quote:
I think temperature cycling might help pinning but too low temperature too long certainly will make more damage than good. Try that only after you have tried a good clone. | |
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