Eatyualive's Chamber of Shrooms

[eatyualive]

BTW, whoever made this pic below. thanks you rock!

Steel Work Storage:

The Construction of

Eatyualive's Chamber of Shrooms

Reasoning:

You never know when a fire will happen or an emergency and the police or
fire department barge into your place when your not around. This is going to be a step by step detailed explanation from start to end. I try to give as many details as possible but my scatter brain just has trouble organizing threads. Hopefully this one, will be a bit more clear.


LCD Track Lighting or LCD Battery Stick Ons: Under 20$ for the plug in, 8$ for the stick on battery powered.


This is 8$ at lowes. It has a velcro strip and sticky tape on the backside.
You can hang these anywhere. But, the batteries will run out far
before the light will. The batteries run AAA and it takes 3 per each one of these lcd. They will last approximately a week for 4 hours a day. You can get a rechargeable battery pack for AAA's and you should be fine. So, if your using the lcd battery light for direction only.
Otherwise the batteries will run out quite fast. Or you need to get the plugin set. The prices range from 18-30$.

They have all kinds of designs and colors to choose from.
This will in turn be plugged in and wired through the back of the cabinet.

It can plug in and you can run wires behind this utility closet, making
it difficult to see. but this one won't have any wires going in
or out. real simple. old skool. you could even run a fan in there.
small cpu fan would work. but not necessary. just air out if the temp
builds up too much. 6 foot tall 3 foot wide and 18" deep. thats the downfall
of this one, but one of the sturdiest ones.

Lcd on


The cabinet does have slight cracks. At the top of the chamber where
light escapes as well as holes on the sides where the shelves
go. you could close them easily but the door is a bit difficult. It is very
hard to see even in full dark.

This is it stuck to the top of the chamber. you could also potentially line
this with 5ml plastic stick the plastic just below this light, then
make a mist machine below on the lower shelves pumping it directly into your
5ml, pvc pipe grow frame. just for ideas. but this is just real
simple boxes stacked.

Also, not real sure if this lcd thing will work.


But it is worth a try.


This thing is about 200$ and probably the best value for its price of what
was available without shipping. potentially you can stack 6 of these iris bins.
which are 12"x24"x17.5". this cabinet is pressing real tight when
the lids are put on. so the lids have to go. press n seal will be used in place of
this. test runs going soon. keep this updated!

lcd

This thing below is going to be called the

Honanator:Big mother 24" wide.

Available at office depot.

Ok to something a bit more economical. Here is a study done to test sizes. All inner dimensions obtained from manufacturer. Every 1/16th of an inch counts. Make sure you account for the lid dimensions as well. Use your worst case scenario by measuring the length and with of the lid.

Now its a Reality

The 24" wide hon won the comparison test along with iris clear stack 12 gallons. Shape and space wise, they take the cake. The ikea chambers came in 2nd but the problem is, the lids are flimsy and weak. They don't stay on unless you buy the extra accessories to lock them. They end up costing the same amount as the iris clear stack but these things lids pop off easily. It is quite annoying and you would have to tape the lid down to get it to work the way you want it. And it has a smaller volume of space than the clear stack. If you can see very closely in the study it has volume, cost, number of containers, and interior dimensions. Everything was well thought out before anything was bought or tested.
This was several weeks in the planning stages and some tedious measuring
and climbing up on walls at home depot, lowes, target and walmart.

24" depth x 36" wide x 72" height. 12-12 gallon containers fit in here. these are small iris clear stack. they stack easily and are very sturdy. 11$ each at office depot.

If you get something like this, make sure you find out the interior dimensions from the manufacturer first. Then make sure you have accurate measurements of your bins. Take a measuring tape to walmart and ikea, target, big lots. You can't go wrong. It takes time, but you can find it. This fits nicely. A little pricey but does the trick.....



Tub Construction: 12 gallon Iris Clear Stack

15 3/4"Wx21 3/4"Dx10 5/8"H.

Holes per bin: 16. 5 on long sides 3 on short sides


Tools Needed:


1) Iris Bin Clear Stack 12 gallon. 11$ office depot online. best bin you can find. very sturdy these things can carry more than 50lbs.


2) 1" Drill bit or 1" hole saw. this will make life easier!

look a few posts below for some information from coyotemesc and tv casualty for details.


3) drill with good torque

4) tape measure


5) sharpie pen

Total Time Required: 1 hour


Procedure:


This is fairly self explanatory. You have 5 holes going on your long side and 3 on your short.
The holes will basically zigzag from bottom to top. For every 2 bottom holes you have one top hole between. if there are 3 bottom holes, then you have 2 top holes between them.


1) First of all you want to figure out your volume of substrate you will be using. Easily done using a trash bag. Simply fill a turkey tin worth of substrate (this is a personal measuring tool. one turkey tin of sub=1 bin. this included 2-3 quarts of spawn will hit the sub depth of 3.5"). this is also the method used to pasteurize turkey tins. so fill your turkey tin with vermiculite by volume. then add 3 quart jars full of vermiculite into your trash bag. rearrange it in your bin and level it out. This is a quick way of judging your sub depth. do it however you want, this is just how it was done to illustrate the idea.

2) Take a sharpie and your tape measure and mark each spot on the bin where the center of the circle will be.

Roughly the height of these iris bin chambers are 12". we are placing the lower holes near the substrate or casing level at 4". This means that 1/2" below that 4" spot is where the bottom of the hole will be.
this allows for a 3.5" sub depth at all times.

The sub depth will never be deeper than this for these tubs. this is because that one turkey tin of volume fills this height perfectly. if you have deeper sub depth give yourself room for leeway. so say 5"
because you never know when you need to bulk it up a bit. this is all relevant to the size chamber you use, the height, the volume everything. personally the higher your chamber is the better
this gives it much more volume. just like a dub tub. if you could get a double high chamber, that would be the best you can get. but lets work with what we have now. however, it may not fit in your storage chamber to keep stealthy. try measuring all of this out before you go and buy everything. save
yourself the headache.

So, your lower holes at 4"

And your upper holes at 7".

Then eye it horizontally and try aligning your holes directly in the middle of your two lower holes and directly horizontal with the other upper holes you drilled.

3) Drill your holes. Make sure you do this slowly. If you do it too fast you may crack holes you don't want or break parts of the plastic off. It will happen but the more patient, the better.

So total time for all drilling and measuring. 1 hour. Not to shabby for 192 holes! this along with a steel combination lock box can fit in a small fridge. good stuff!


Test run #3


is coming along nicely on a 2nd flush. This is multispore pesh. a clone was taken via 9er tek two days ago
and is on grain now. also coming is two varieties of tex strain. one has a more orange cap the other has a yellow white cap. trying to revive this old characteristic. had one flush on hip's donkey doo but prints weren't taken only this clone that is about to be slurried in a hurry is left. so wish us luck...also this has the above light cycle set. so this is the 3rd test run with this light cycle.

Everything looks extremely healthy with both these clones. and with tv's slurry tek. damn.. watch out!

Cloning Done Via 9er Tek Cloning Method

http://archives.mycotopia.net/discus...tml?1073960464

http://archives.mycotopia.net/discus...tml?1005797715

This is also a collective thread to gather ideas about 9er tek. I worship this tek likes its made by the gods themselves. By hand of Zuess it come. I am sure everyone has something good to add. Please feel free.


http://forums.mycotopia.net/fungi-gr...additions.html

After the clone was taken into syringes. One 10 cc syringe was injected into 2 -1/2 pint brf jars. This ended up colonizing in a few days. Once it colonized. The 1/2 pint cake was then used as a Slurry IN a Hurry and grown out on 20 quart jars wild bird seed spawn.

If you haven't seen it, this is the 3rd step you want to add to the 9er tek. This is freaking awesome!

http://forums.mycotopia.net/holding-...hree-days.html

Follow TV's steps and learn it before you innovate. there are ways ofdoing it more simplified and it works well. But, first learn the tek, then experiment.


My Ratios for Slurry Tek

I do a ratio of 1/2 of 1/2 pint cake blended to 1/2 pint distilled water. This is 1/4 of a pint of mycelia. This is all blended in a 1 pint jar with a small mouth lid.

This half cake, is enough lc for 50 jars. Usually I'll do 25 jars per sitting. and half of the cake is always thrown out and even half of the solution is also poured out. yes, thrown out! A little bit, goes a
long way. You can likely get 100 jars off one half pint cake using this method. Where if you scrape the 1/2 pint with a fork, you may only get 10-12 quart jars. You can simply pour the blended jar like your g2ging your jars, but pour it for just a split second. You don't want too much lc.

I am in experimentation now and you will see it in Tv's thread. I tried 1:1 ratio of cake to distilled water. basically 1/2 pint to 1/2 pint. It ended up turning to mud. But its colonizing well now.

This is a thread of the previous grow with this clone. This is a very rocking clone of Treasure Coast. 4 More Strains Are about to be tested now. Tex Clone Yellow Cap, Tex Clone Orange Cap, Mazatec
clone and PES Hawaiian clone.


http://forums.mycotopia.net/photo-ga...ast-clone.html (Treasure Coast Clone)


http://forums.mycotopia.net/photo-ga...t-bigguns.html (Bring out the bigguns!)


Spawn Run


This spawn run took 5 days. it was allowed to colonize for two more days after that and birthed.
all the rhizos are pointing up like tree trunks. each bin looks like this.

Incubation/Fruiting

Lets say you have 8 chambers going but you have 4 other that are spawned a week later to keep a rotation going. In order to get this to work, you need black plastic available at paint sections of walmart and home depot. Simply cover up the chambers your incubating and place them at the bottom of all the other chambers. then when they are birthed, take off the black plastic and place them at the top of the stack closest to the light.

A note about Condensation Buildup


Here is a picture of when the condensation on the lids gets too high. Pay attention to this. This is bad.
You do not want this. And notice this is right after full colonization. Often if nothing is done and your using the lid, without fanning. you will get contams easily. if you gently and quickly wipe down the top so that the condensation is gone, this will help out when you get closer to fruiting. personally this is where most
of the problems are caused if there are any. so if you make sure you catch it at this point, all should be well. 1 out of 8 of these bins did this. most likely it was the bin that had the triple spawn ratio compared to the other 8. it just worked out that way during spawning. nothing will be fanned until a day or two after pin development happens.

This is with no casing layer.

The substrate

1:1:1 ratios of strawnet:
coco coir: vermiculite. It was then topped off with a
10% dusting of horse field apples. Or shall we call them gold nuggets. That sounds better!


Condensation Woes

You will notice in this picture that there is just a tad bit of condensation on the substrate itself. this is tolerable on a substrate. but if you have a casing, you do not want this at all. when you begin to see more than tiny speckles of water on the substrate that means there is too much condensation on your substrate. this may happen when you have a 4" deep substrate. this means, either you have to fan, you can tilt your chamber to allow the moisture to run down the casing, or you can vent if you using press n seal or saran wrap on your tubs as lids.

relative humidity regulation

if you are using your lids for your lids, and they are air tight. then you have to deal with this at that point.

anymore time spent with a drenched substrate may be room for contams. you can open up a few polyfil holes to allow moisture to escape but you don't want too much moisture to escape so keep it under 4 hours. this is in turn regulating the relative humidity slightly. you can get a gauge for this, when you figure it out. it depends on your substrate depth, ratios and such to adapt it to your own tolerances. but foaf will find opening two polyfil holes for 4 hours does the trick usually. usually when the pins start to develop and fruiting occurs. the moisture condensation will be at its peak. By this point, the fruits will produce their own moisture and it can certainly contaminate the hell out of your bin, if you don't do this correctly.

this is why you try and drop your rh 10% when fruiting occurs. so if its out of hand, open more polyfil holes. foaf has actually left the saran wrap lid off at times and the entire bin fruited open air with all the moisture escaping. the moisture kept under the substrate was enough to fruit it and allow the fruits to mature.
so being in this closed space storage. you may be able to get away with allowing the lids to either sit loosely or just take them off. this is just an idea but it did work in a closet. the moisture would most likely be kept in better from this cabinet so if this is experimented with, it will be noted later.

at times, the condensation buildup can get out of hand. so much that even if you soak up the water, your still having to soak it up a few times a day. foaf will use paper towels to quickly soak up excess moisture on the top of the substrate by gently and quickly swabbing the surface trying to soak up the extra moisture. not much pressure is added so that no damage occurs to the developing primordia.

if none of this works. you can add a slightly dryer casing layer to soak up the extra moisture and then wait till it colonizes before birth. or you can do a late casing method by fahtster.

you can even add sterile dry vermiculite as well. this is if, the moisture is completely out of control.




Full Test Run Treasure Coast Clone 1


here are a few of them after spawning.

Lighting Notes: Lighting Cycle


The bins will receive natural light for roughly 4 hours a day. This will be later in the day closer to sunset. They will receive exactly 1 hour early morning light. The lcd lights will be turned on for a few
hours just for directional purposes. This will be natural daylight but will be very indirect. Only enough light that it cracks into the space between the blinds. 2 bins have been tested with 100% success and no warped growth either. When the lcd lights were on, it made the fruits reach upwards for them. so conserve your batteries or get rechargeable batteries if your not wanting modern technology attached to this storage cabinet. This cabinet will be all natural no strings attached, good ole stone age fun...
well not stone age but you get the drift. not automation.The pesh are fruiting very nicely with minimal light. the daily fannings will be enough light along with the 3 extra hours for Pinning . the fanning will occur early in the morning and early evening. so two times a day.


Primordia 4 days in

Pinning: 6 days in

Pins formed. Fanning has begun. Two times a day. Once in the morning, once in the evening. For 10 seconds each so a total of 20 seconds of fanning is going to take place daily.

This picture below is what the substrate will look like when it is just about to pin. Pins should form in the next 12 hours or so. It has one or two pins on it, but this is generally what it looks like.

2nd day pins, condensation is starting to increase. not a bad pinset for 4 hours of light a day. and minimal daylight. only cracks of light coming in through the blinds. the room appears very dark when your in it.

side view for a different perspective

Condensation as an Indicator That Fruiting has begun

This picture is 2 days into pinning. Just before the pins are going to start to mature. This is generally when fanning begins, or polyfil holes are taken out to allow a bit of the rh to drop. If your using saran wrap lids you most likely won't have to do this unless your using older spawn past 3 generations. You will notice in this picture that the condensation on the sides looks misty and scattered. And very random. Its even and there are no drips yet.

In this picture below you will notice that this bin is just a step ahead of the above bin. This happens. They were done at the same time but there is about a days difference in growth between the two. You will notice how the condensation started to drip. This is an indicator that fruiting is beginning. This is when you really have to either start giving some fanning, simply open up some polyfil holes, or even tilt your chambers for a few hours. It is all dependent upon what method you use. But here lies the real problem. This is the sensitive spot. If you allow the rh to get out of hand, the condensation on the substate or pinning surface will really cause problems. So tilt, lower rh, or fan real heavy. You could do combination of all of these things. But if your lazy, well you may just want to open the poly holes. Disregard any of this if your using automation this is strictly for single tubs with lids on them. You can generally judge by the amount of condensation on the substate when you will want to lower your rh. If you see drops then you want to lower your rh. If it looks like a fine mist. Your fine.

Starting to Pop

One thing. Treasure Coast never fails to be very slow from pin to fruit. I feel as though it should have popped two days ago lol.

Sending good vibes your way my girls





top left corner a small portion was surgically removed. probably just over paranoia but surgery was done very quickly.

Fanning is Too Much Work

Well after a week of going back to fanning. Conclusion is This sux! Too much work. Will most likely go back to saran wrap or pns lids.



Pin Porn: Almost There

wow this is an eternity. come on tc, hurry up, hurry up girl.....just creepin along. now creeper were even slower than tc. but so far, tc takes the cake on slow fruiting.....wow!

Pins to Fruiting 6 days

Condensation During Fruiting

You can see the condensation on the sides increase dramatically from pins to fruit. notice it on the lid as well again. there wasn't any condensation on the lids until last day of fruiting.

Final Update

Ready for printing!

Conclusions

Test Run 1 Success. Subs were a bit dry this round probably need to up the moisture content. Other than that, a good 8 hour dunk will be done on each tub to prepare them for the 2nd flush. May do a few of these late casing experiments to mess around with the timing.

BTW, this is nothing special. Its just a storage locker with bins in it. But it just looks so damn cool with the lighting! oh yeah!

They love me!

[dizzydank]

hells yes bro. thas sick.

[Freaky]

I've used a cabinet before, only I made mine into an incubator which worked really really well for me.

That will be nice and stealthy for you! I like the stacked tubs

[mycobri]

wow beautiful creation man

[eatyualive]

got something really cool coming soon similar to this! in the works...

[Sunstar]

nice work Eats

[CoyoteMesc]

Awesome thread eats.
If you dont mind a suggestion?
I dont want to step on your toes in no way.
You have kick ass ideas and the thread
is proof of that for sure.
Have you ever tried a hole saw bit?
The small bit holds the saw in place and cracking
would be less of an issue?

[eatyualive]

Originally Posted by CoyoteMesc

Awesome thread eats.

If you dont mind a suggestion?
I dont want to step on your toes in no way.
You have kick ass ideas and the thread
is proof of that for sure.

Have you ever tried a hole saw bit?

The small bit holds the saw in place and cracking
would be less of an issue?

well, too late now lol. that was alot of drilling. but. next time... lol. just have a power drill is all. didn't even look at home depot but will pick one up next time. and any suggestions are always appreciated.

[TVCasualty]

Hole saws work well on plastic bins, but it takes a careful touch. I found that starting the pilot bit at higher speed is fine, but as the bit gets through the plastic and the teeth of the saw start to bite, they have a tendency to grab the plastic and just about make the bin do a cartwheel. That problem also is conducive to making cracks in the bin.

I found that after the pilot bit pokes through, holding the drill at a slight angle and keeping it at a fairly slow RPM starts a channel for the saw teeth that prevents grabbing (drill the pilot hole straight in, only angle the drill after that). I then carefully twist my wrist around, just barely cutting into the plastic, until the entire diameter of the hole is outlined by the saw (takes 2-3 seconds in real time after some practice). Once you get to that point you can crank up the RPM's and finish the hole real fast. Be sure to not put much pressure on it as you drill since it can grab the plastic. I've found it takes me about 5-10 seconds per hole (>1" dameter) when using a hole saw. Definitely expect some practice blunders at first. You can often drill 5-6 holes before you need to poke the cut pieces out of the hole saw, which can sometimes be a pain in the ass.

You'll also probably have to take a utility blade or something and clean up the edges of the hole, especially after the hole saw gets a little dull. When it gets a lot dull, definitely get a new one otherwise you're essentially melting your way through and the hole edges get ugly.

[eatyualive]

Originally Posted by TVCasualty

Hole saws work well on plastic bins, but it takes a careful touch. I found that starting the pilot bit at higher speed is fine, but as the bit gets through the plastic and the teeth of the saw start to bite, they have a tendency to grab the plastic and just about make the bin do a cartwheel. That problem also is conducive to making cracks in the bin.

I found that after the pilot bit pokes through, holding the drill at a slight angle and keeping it at a fairly slow RPM starts a channel for the saw teeth that prevents grabbing (drill the pilot hole straight in, only angle the drill after that). I then carefully twist my wrist around, just barely cutting into the plastic, until the entire diameter of the hole is outlined by the saw (takes 2-3 seconds in real time after some practice). Once you get to that point you can crank up the RPM's and finish the hole real fast. Be sure to not put much pressure on it as you drill since it can grab the plastic. I've found it takes me about 5-10 seconds per hole (>1" dameter) when using a hole saw. Definitely expect some practice blunders at first. You can often drill 5-6 holes before you need to poke the cut pieces out of the hole saw, which can sometimes be a pain in the ass.

You'll also probably have to take a utility blade or something and clean up the edges of the hole, especially after the hole saw gets a little dull. When it gets a lot dull, definitely get a new one otherwise you're essentially melting your way through and the hole edges get ugly.

ive used this 1" drill bit for 10 years and it hasn't dulled yet. and i only cracked two holes and that was because i got impatient. and... it doesn't really need to be cleaned up much after the drill bit just a few pieces of plastic being pulled and that is all. either way it works. and it all depends on your preference. i have no experience with hole saws but they look good. will try next time. more updates coming soon. 8 chambers were filled with treasure coast clone. the rest will be filled with mazatec clone and pes hawaiian clone.

[CoyoteMesc]

Once the drill bit gets through the plastic bin you put the drill in reverse. That prevents the 'grab' and still cuts through. Kinda like putting the blades in backwards when using miter and skill saw while cutting tin.

[oibchip]

Great ideas!

[the jesus]

CM the drill in reverse is a nice tip, and I am pleased to hear that you are anal enough to reverse the blade in a miter box.


I have always used paddle bits myself:





I find you can use them at any speed and they won't crack even the hardest plastic.

eatyoualive your friends must love you.

[oibchip]

[Freaky]

I love this Eats!

[hyphaenation]

Inspiring

Thanks

[mycobri]

............................. .............................
.................great timing and planning .....................
i foresee an abundance of shrooms in your future

[livewire420]

another great thread. may i suggest a fan on a timer for fae or does that press n seal work better for you meaning no fanning?