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  • Go Back   Mycotopia Web Forums > Board Discussions > Fungi: Growing Edible Medicinal & Magic Mushrooms

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    Old 07-28-08, 12:18   #1 (permalink)
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    would you say this dpoo is ready for FC?

    looks pretty good to me, but i've never done a poo run before. when it is ready it will be going into a monotub. had to wick up some of that myc piss. so would you fruit it or give it some more time? if more time, how much? should it all look like the right side? thanks
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:20   #2 (permalink)
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    Are you going to case it?
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:21   #3 (permalink)
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    no i'm not, sorry should have said that
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:25   #4 (permalink)
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    Well if you aren't gonna case i guess you might ass well fruit it. But IMO you should case it with like half an inch of verm/peat or verm/coir or something. Then let it colonize that for a few days till you just barely see the myc coming up in the valleys, then fruit. You would be amazed what that little bit of moisture being held right at the surface of that casing would do for even pinset, and greater yield.
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:31   #5 (permalink)
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    Stop messing with it and wait for a few more days for it to completely finish colonizing.
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:32   #6 (permalink)
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    i think next time i'm going to case. i just tried a casing with the left over spawn i had from this and it's not going very well
    http://forums.mycotopia.net/fungi-gr...-too-good.html (casing not looking too good)
    i'm sure i did something wrong in the process, but as for now i just wants some fruits and i'm hoping that going without a casing,this time, will help guarantee results. not better results, just results.
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:33   #7 (permalink)
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    I see the myc just starting to come up in most spots, then the parts that are solid white seem over layed to me. Thats how it goes when you case it i know, you want to fruit it when the myc is right below the surface, not after it forms a big thick mat on top.
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:37   #8 (permalink)
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    This is my experience with 50/50 verm coir casing on colonized coir.
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:38   #9 (permalink)
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    hmmm, so if i'm reading this right, 1 vote for it's ready and 1 vote for leave it.

    guess i'll what other advice i get by the time i get home tonight. thanks
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:39   #10 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by IntotheLabyrinth View Post
    This is my experience with 50/50 verm coir casing on colonized coir.
    hmmm, like the looks of that! maybe my mind isn't 100% made up about not casing lol
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:40   #11 (permalink)
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    I'm tellin ya dude. Just make sure the casing layer is "field capacity" Then fruit it right when you see the myc in the valleys. Mist if it is drying out, but if you FC is right it shouldn't dry out too much...
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:47   #12 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    Stop messing with it and wait for a few more days for it to completely finish colonizing.
    This reply was from someone with a whole lot of experience & knowledge...
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    Old 07-28-08, 12:49   #13 (permalink)
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    good point. Like i said, I've never done a casing without a casing layer. So I was just making a semi educated guess.
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    Old 07-28-08, 13:34   #14 (permalink)
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    http://forums.mycotopia.net/mushroom...technique.html (A simple casing technique.)

    Here lately i've been having trouble with mold in my soil. Even after a hefty pasteurization at 170 degrees for a few hours, the damn casing soil gets this odd green bread mold in it. That obviously shouldn't happen and never really has to me until lately. I'm thinking it's the potting soil setting outside in the hot sun waiting to be purchased. It must be have been a little old as well, as people are really tightening up because of the economy.

    Anyways, if I were to advise in using potting soil right now, I would say to pasteurize it to near sterility @ 200 degrees, or would go with peat moss pasteurized properly @ 150 degrees. Peat moss is stored dry, so bread molds blooming from it aren't a problem. I'd hate for this crap to happen to anyone else.

    Of course you can always allow that to barely finish colonizing and then can intro it to fruiting conditions un-cased if you're concerned with a casing.
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    Old 07-28-08, 15:05   #15 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Lazlo View Post
    Here lately i've been having trouble with mold in my soil. Even after a hefty pasteurization at 170 degrees for a few hours, the damn casing soil gets this odd green bread mold in it. That obviously shouldn't happen and never really has to me until lately. I'm thinking it's the potting soil setting outside in the hot sun waiting to be purchased. It must be have been a little old as well, as people are really tightening up because of the economy.

    Anyways, if I were to advise in using potting soil right now, I would say to pasteurize it to near sterility @ 200 degrees, or would go with peat moss pasteurized properly @ 150 degrees. Peat moss is stored dry, so bread molds blooming from it aren't a problem. I'd hate for this crap to happen to anyone else.

    Of course you can always allow that to barely finish colonizing and then can intro it to fruiting conditions un-cased if you're concerned with a casing.
    peat is kinda bad due to companies putting trich in it as well as potting soil due to trich being benifitial to plants so if you waant to get around that when you mix your soil add 2 teaspoons bleach to a gallon of water then use that to hydrate your casing mix. This will help greatly to prevent contamins (the ol green monster). IMHO
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    Old 07-28-08, 15:19   #16 (permalink)
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    That's incorrect. Peat isn't inoculated with mold.
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    Old 07-30-08, 14:39   #17 (permalink)
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    this is how it looks today,2 days later. i'm starting to think it's ready even though it's not 100% yet. i'm not too familiar with overlay, but i've noticed in some of the heaviest spots that there are little white balls forming. the closeup that shows them didn't come out too good and i don't want to open it again, but it looks to me like it's just 2 "arms" of the myc conecting. i don't know if that's a bad thing or if it can get out of hand if allowed to continue too long. this will not be cased, can anyone see why it shouldn't be fruiting within the next 24 hours? thanks
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    Old 07-30-08, 15:26   #18 (permalink)
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    you can find coir with trich in it from grow stores. think that is what your think of.
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    Old 07-30-08, 15:37   #19 (permalink)
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    The more you fool with it, the more it wants to switch into a fruiting gear and will never colonize.
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