Shroom wizards casing question

grimes390 · 08-17-08, 03:27

Hey I been reading trying to find the right casing for me and I like the shroom wizards casing tek. I juz have one question. It doesnt say anything about sterilizing it It just says mix 50/50 verm/soil with enough water to make it ball up w/o dripping water. It then says to just put on bottom then put myc chunks ontop with another layer of casing on top. Is this right? Should I put it in pillowcase in boiling water for an hour? Or will this mess it up? Is it necessary?

Thx

Phx · 08-17-08, 04:01

I don't actually don't know, but every where I look sterilizing/pasturing is the only way to go. I don't think "I" would not make sure all contams are completely gone. But if you go that route than please keep us updated. I would love to know if myc can withstand contams at this level. Just my 2 cents.

The Old Man · 08-17-08, 07:07

You have too pasteurize at the least. If mixing with spawn as a sub
it's very wise to sterilize then pasteurize the casing. I have such a
problem where I'm at with tric that I get better results sterilizing my
casing also. Just my 2cents worth. You'll need to experiment with
different controls and find what works best for you in your particular
situation. Try what works on the average and adjust perimeters from
there.

blonthedl · 08-17-08, 07:36

if you pasteurize there is no need to try to get an accrurate water content (cause you're just dunking it in water obviously)-if you went with the pillowcase tek. Also the verm/soil I suspect would become massive mud ball, clumping together too thick to be an efficiant casing.

an easy tek that I've used with success is just microwaving the casing for 10 mins. I used a 60/40 verm/coir mix added distilled water to what I thought was right content, put it in microwave safe bowl cover with saran wrap then put the lid on it, I put tape around all sides of the container cause when that stuff gets hot it pops the lid off. I let it cool overnight so I don't really know the exact time you need to leave it sit before you use it.

I found all the information I needed in the archives, one thing is for sure I would do something to sterilize your casing. putting something on you cakes that might/might not have contaminates is a gamble and in some states is myc abuse!

good luck.

by the way, I am switching the coir part of my casing to either a soil mix or peat moss, the coir seems to colonize the casing too fast. so it is definately not a must to use coir, you can use lots of things for the casing....in my experiance

TVCasualty · 08-17-08, 08:46

Quite a few people have mentioned using coir without any kind of pasteurization, and had no problems (this doesn't apply to peat moss). I've got a little trial going myself at the moment (50/50 coir/verm). I got both from brand-new sealed bags, used bottled spring water, and mixed them in my clean room in front of my flow hood, but I didn't do any pasteurization. I just applied the casing yesterday, actually, so it'll be a few days before I have anything to report back.

RITTER · 08-17-08, 08:55

I tried the "shroomWizards" tek when I first started this hobby & had "zero" results. Mabey it was me ! but since Ive been a member of this absolutly "AMAZING" site MY projects always produce!

grimes390 · 08-17-08, 15:30

Thx guys

TVCasualty · 08-22-08, 13:08

Well, several trays cased with unpasteurized 50/50 verm/coir are looking perfect.

Not having to pasteurize is a wonderful thing. Now I'm waiting to see if it pins (light was introduced yesterday).

grimes390 · 09-01-08, 02:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by TVCasualty

Well, several trays cased with unpasteurized 50/50 verm/coir are looking perfect.

Not having to pasteurize is a wonderful thing. Now I'm waiting to see if it pins (light was introduced yesterday).

Hows that coming man? Thats tight. Hope it works out for you bud!

Pce

TVCasualty · 09-01-08, 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by grimes390

Hows that coming man? Thats tight. Hope it works out for you bud!

Pce

Well, they came up big and fast in a full canopy that was pulled the day before yesterday. It kicked all sorts of ass over peat-based casings and I did not pasteurize or measure the pH though I did toss a half-teaspoon of lime in with each brick of coir. A drop of jet-dry helped hydrate the coir faster, btw.

I only waited this long to try coir because I was finishing off a 4 cubic foot bag of peat-based soil mix I had been using. It took me a loooong time to go through that much casing soil (about two years). I can buy coir in small bricks as I need it, so score another point for coir over peat.

husharbors · 09-01-08, 20:44

is it safe to assume that the coco sold in pet stores for reptile bedding would suffice?

TVCasualty · 09-01-08, 22:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by husharbors

is it safe to assume that the coco sold in pet stores for reptile bedding would suffice?

Bed-A-Beast is what I used. Be careful of coir marketed for horticulture/plant mixes since it might be pre-inoculated with trichoderma! It should say so on the package if it is, but reptile bedding to my knowledge is not.

30 minutes from opening the brick of coir to applying the mixed and hydrated casing layer is where it's at IMHO.

grimes390 · 09-02-08, 01:39

Awsome man congrats

Thats awsome info, very easy

. You mind going through the steps you did? Kinda like a tek

How much water to coir..where and how u hydrated ext...? I like the sound of this casing. What bulk substrate did you use? Congrats again man!!

Pce

TVCasualty · 09-02-08, 09:34

Put brick in large pot (3 gallon or so I think), poured spring water from a new bottle on it, added a drop of jet dry and a teaspoon of hydrated lime, poured more water until I used about 1/2 gallon, let sit 10 minutes. I swirled it around and broke it apart w/my hands (wearing gloves) as it softened and added water as necessary (I ended up using almost the whole gallon). I'd let it sit a few minutes then break it up and mix it some more. When it was sopping wet and no more hard spots could be felt I added the vermiculite from a new, sealed bag. I just slowly poured a bunch in (wearing a dust mask) and mixed it up, added a little more, mixed, etc until it looked good. At some point I just think it looks "good" and I'm not sure how else to describe that. When I squeezed a handful it there was a very short stream of water then a few drops (I think I hydrate a little more than most recommend).

goldenteacher1163 · 09-02-08, 15:27

Foaf always uses pet store coir with great results

he boils spring water for about 10-15 min then lets it cool for 5 min then hydrates the coir in a 5 gal bucket then puts the lid on it so it can cool. With this method Trich is not much of a problem at all

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08-17-08, 03:27	#1 (permalink)
grimes390 Sexologist since age 13 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 255	Shroom wizards casing question Hey I been reading trying to find the right casing for me and I like the shroom wizards casing tek. I juz have one question. It doesnt say anything about sterilizing it It just says mix 50/50 verm/soil with enough water to make it ball up w/o dripping water. It then says to just put on bottom then put myc chunks ontop with another layer of casing on top. Is this right? Should I put it in pillowcase in boiling water for an hour? Or will this mess it up? Is it necessary? Thx __________________ CFL Growers Motto...."I Do Because I Can, I Can Because I Want To, I Want To Because You Said I Couldn't"

08-17-08, 07:07	#3 (permalink)
The Old Man OldStyle Chevy HorsePower Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 48	You have too pasteurize at the least. If mixing with spawn as a sub it's very wise to sterilize then pasteurize the casing. I have such a problem where I'm at with tric that I get better results sterilizing my casing also. Just my 2cents worth. You'll need to experiment with different controls and find what works best for you in your particular situation. Try what works on the average and adjust perimeters from there. __________________ 47, thought I wouldn't make 40

08-17-08, 08:46	#5 (permalink)
TVCasualty Embrace Your Damage Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,937	Quite a few people have mentioned using coir without any kind of pasteurization, and had no problems (this doesn't apply to peat moss). I've got a little trial going myself at the moment (50/50 coir/verm). I got both from brand-new sealed bags, used bottled spring water, and mixed them in my clean room in front of my flow hood, but I didn't do any pasteurization. I just applied the casing yesterday, actually, so it'll be a few days before I have anything to report back. __________________ The danger of an adventure is worth a thousand days of ease and comfort- Paulo Coelho

08-17-08, 15:30	#7 (permalink)
grimes390 Sexologist since age 13 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 255	Thx guys __________________ CFL Growers Motto...."I Do Because I Can, I Can Because I Want To, I Want To Because You Said I Couldn't"

08-17-08, 04:01	#2 (permalink)
Phx Mycotopiate Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 247	I don't actually don't know, but every where I look sterilizing/pasturing is the only way to go. I don't think "I" would not make sure all contams are completely gone. But if you go that route than please keep us updated. I would love to know if myc can withstand contams at this level. Just my 2 cents.

08-17-08, 07:36	#4 (permalink)
blonthedl Mycophiliac Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 32	if you pasteurize there is no need to try to get an accrurate water content (cause you're just dunking it in water obviously)-if you went with the pillowcase tek. Also the verm/soil I suspect would become massive mud ball, clumping together too thick to be an efficiant casing. an easy tek that I've used with success is just microwaving the casing for 10 mins. I used a 60/40 verm/coir mix added distilled water to what I thought was right content, put it in microwave safe bowl cover with saran wrap then put the lid on it, I put tape around all sides of the container cause when that stuff gets hot it pops the lid off. I let it cool overnight so I don't really know the exact time you need to leave it sit before you use it. I found all the information I needed in the archives, one thing is for sure I would do something to sterilize your casing. putting something on you cakes that might/might not have contaminates is a gamble and in some states is myc abuse! good luck. by the way, I am switching the coir part of my casing to either a soil mix or peat moss, the coir seems to colonize the casing too fast. so it is definately not a must to use coir, you can use lots of things for the casing....in my experiance

08-17-08, 08:55	#6 (permalink)
RITTER Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 35	I tried the "shroomWizards" tek when I first started this hobby & had "zero" results. Mabey it was me ! but since Ive been a member of this absolutly "AMAZING" site MY projects always produce!

08-22-08, 13:08	#8 (permalink)
TVCasualty Embrace Your Damage Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,937	Well, several trays cased with unpasteurized 50/50 verm/coir are looking perfect. Not having to pasteurize is a wonderful thing. Now I'm waiting to see if it pins (light was introduced yesterday). __________________ The danger of an adventure is worth a thousand days of ease and comfort- Paulo Coelho

09-01-08, 20:44	#11 (permalink)
husharbors Mycophiliac Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 1	is it safe to assume that the coco sold in pet stores for reptile bedding would suffice?

09-02-08, 01:39	#13 (permalink)
grimes390 Sexologist since age 13 Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 255	Awsome man congrats Thats awsome info, very easy. You mind going through the steps you did? Kinda like a tek How much water to coir..where and how u hydrated ext...? I like the sound of this casing. What bulk substrate did you use? Congrats again man!! Pce __________________ CFL Growers Motto...."I Do Because I Can, I Can Because I Want To, I Want To Because You Said I Couldn't"

09-02-08, 09:34	#14 (permalink)
TVCasualty Embrace Your Damage Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,937	Put brick in large pot (3 gallon or so I think), poured spring water from a new bottle on it, added a drop of jet dry and a teaspoon of hydrated lime, poured more water until I used about 1/2 gallon, let sit 10 minutes. I swirled it around and broke it apart w/my hands (wearing gloves) as it softened and added water as necessary (I ended up using almost the whole gallon). I'd let it sit a few minutes then break it up and mix it some more. When it was sopping wet and no more hard spots could be felt I added the vermiculite from a new, sealed bag. I just slowly poured a bunch in (wearing a dust mask) and mixed it up, added a little more, mixed, etc until it looked good. At some point I just think it looks "good" and I'm not sure how else to describe that. When I squeezed a handful it there was a very short stream of water then a few drops (I think I hydrate a little more than most recommend). __________________ The danger of an adventure is worth a thousand days of ease and comfort- Paulo Coelho

09-02-08, 15:27	#15 (permalink)
goldenteacher1163 myco guru Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 279	Foaf always uses pet store coir with great results he boils spring water for about 10-15 min then lets it cool for 5 min then hydrates the coir in a 5 gal bucket then puts the lid on it so it can cool. With this method Trich is not much of a problem at all __________________ "A man shall never be enriched by envy." -Thomas Dreier

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