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| Fungi: Growing Edible Medicinal & Magic Mushrooms Ask and answer questions and share experiences related to mushrooms. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
![]() | Manure as substrate?
So, I learned via craigslist that someone nearby is offering 'free' horse manure, now I ask if someone can give some good, authoritative (ie, you've used it before) advice on using it. Since there is a continuous supply, would it be better to just use all manure, without straw as an additive? How would I best prepare it? I've never worked with dung before and am truthfully a little reluctant to, but since it's nature's way...
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Magik Mod Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,901
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Manure, especially horse, works great for magik fungus. Read up on pasteurizing techniques in the Vaults to help find the way that will work best for you. Start building some spawn via grain or pf jars while you work on reading about spawning teks and pasteurizing. If you need some links to vaulted threads let us know and we'll throw some up for you.
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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More than likely that manure has straw in it, along with sawdust. When you go to pick it up, look for areas in the pile where there's a lot of manure. Some places just let you go there to shovel it for yourself, so you can be more picky while you're shoveling.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Harvester of Sorrow Join Date: Apr 1972
Posts: 1,970
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yea the best is a pile of dried 100 % nuggets. most piles are heavy in bedding, woosdhips, and urine. Find a good source and dont lose it. shred it, mix 70/30 with verm for da best sub imo.
__________________ Dreams are real. But they are made of viewpoints, of images, of memories and puns and lost hopes |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
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Well, I sent the lady an email, and she says she has "plenty," an endless supply, some composted, some fresh, I can take as much as I like. Does straight manure work better than straw/ straw mixed with manure? Also, I'm living in an apartment right now, are there any feasible ways of doing it in this setting (ie with no yardspace)? I have an offer for a house to move in, a little cheaper than the apartment in fact, so if the yardspace makes a big difference, I'll probably end up moving...
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| celtic tiger Join Date: May 1972
Posts: 1,095
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I'm using straight hpoo in an apartment right now. http://forums.mycotopia.net/fungi-gr...ice-rocks.html (Whole Brown Rice rocks) To pasteurize I use my oven (don't tell the girlfriend). Water baths are too messy for my liking since I can't go out in my backyard to rinse the stuff out. You need very little water to bring it to the right moisture level (field capacity). I used only two cups in that grow. For oven pasteurization use a meat thermometer in the centre of the substrate. Keep it in the oven until the centre of the substrate reaches 150 then turn off the oven. Leave it in the oven overnight. It will cool for several hours at the right temperature to pasteurize. Burn incense and good luck |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| celtic tiger Join Date: May 1972
Posts: 1,095
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Not so bad. It does smell different but not putrid or anything like that. Like I mentioned, just burn incencse and you're fine. I find water is a bigger problem as it creates a huge mess with all that liquid poo running around. Not so bad in the back yard but in an appartment it's a real pain.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
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Does it matter what the horses have eaten to determine substrate suitability? Also, would I be better off going with composted manure, or the 'fresher?' I thought about asking the lady some more questions, but I don't really want to make her too suspicious when I drive by to pick up several pounds of manure for "gardening projects." Just to clarify, manure straight works better than straw, or manure/ straw compost?
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| thirsty for more Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,482
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You definitely want the composted stuff. You would for gardening as well, so don't be afraid to ask questions. IME manure works better if you fluff it up with something like straw or coir. That improves the water retention as well as making the texture less dense. The mycelium will move through it easier and get better air exchange.
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
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A few more long-winded questions-within-questions... 1. I'm leaning towards oven pasteurization now, oven bags seem to be the most commonly prescribed way, but I thought, maybe it'd also work to use the cheap aluminum deepdish baking pans, "heap it up" so that it sort of forms a dung dome and then wrap with foil? Then, I could stick a meat thermometer through the foil... I think I'd prefer this, because with oven bags, I'm afraid I'd have to invest more $$$ on big pans which would support the bags; at least, I guess it isn't safe to leave them on the oven racks naked, since they're plastic... 2. I inoculated quite a few quart wbs jars, and a few of them are colonizing much faster than the others. They, five or six I'd say, are over half finished, whereas all the others aren't even 1/4 done, and a few haven't done anything yet. I want to do greenhouse grows, but I'd also like for the growing cycle to be "synchronized." Maybe if I took the early bloomers and put them in a rubbermaid tote... if I mixed the manure up in a tote with 5-6 spawn jars, what would be the best depth for filling? Also, shouldn't I drill holes in the tote lid and micropore tape, for ventilation? And, if I did the earlybird tote like a ghetto incubator, with a fish tank heater... would the heat generated by the heater be sufficient, if it's in the same room as the greenhouses? I'm going to heat the room with a portable heater/ac, and I'm afraid that the heater/ac might "override" the fish tank heater... |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Amature Mycologist Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 155
![]() | I just tried to spawn
A tub of horse poo with nothing else added and its takeing a very long time My advice is to add something to it wether it be sawdust straw verm or coir try ne of each as an experament to see just what will work best for you the best way to learn is trial and eror if you fail you just learned one way not to do it. Keep on trying never give up. Karma.K
__________________ Karma.K Mushrooms are my Job, Mushrooms are my Hobbie, Mushrooms are my Life. I Love Mushrooms. |
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| | #20 (permalink) | |
| Magik Mod Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,901
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
I used to find spreading it out in a garage or small area, it'd dry out quicker.
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 149
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not for sure but probably want to pick out the pine needles. Dont worry about the bugs. If you properly pasteurize the sub it will be ok. Might wanna give it an extra 30 to make SURE you get those nasty little fuckers
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
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Well, it's been 5 days since spawning, and rhizomorphic tufts are poking through... when would be the best time to case? Am I waiting for the entire substrate to be engulfed with mycelium? Also, what would be the best depth for the casing layer, assuming that the substrate is between 5 and 5 1/2 inches deep? Would it be okay to microwave the casing for sterilization? I don't have an oven right now, plan on casing with plain vermiculite. How long should I microwave, if that would work (hope it does)! Thanks again everyone, I couldn't possibly have come this far without your help! |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| celtic tiger Join Date: May 1972
Posts: 1,095
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My bulk subs generally take 10 to 14 days to fully colonize. Since it's been only 5 days since spawning I'd wait until the sub is fully colonized before casing. If you are using straight verm then I'd go with no more than a 1/4 or a 1/2 inch for the casing. I've DEC cakes b4 with straight verm that hasn't been steralized. I think that you would be ok but you might want another opinion. good luck
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