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| Fungi: Growing Edible Medicinal & Magic Mushrooms Ask and answer questions and share experiences related to mushrooms. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
![]() | First time bulk. Please give your input
Hi All, So SWIM is going to try to up the yield. My man, SWIM has done small grows coming right off the cake before but feels like he should tackle on a bulk project. SWIM has 6 pint jars of Argentina cubies, 95% colonized so far and was hoping to get some advice. SWIM is planning on a 50/50 verm/coir substrate with some worm castings. SWIM has reviewed various teks but he still has some questions. 1. What kind of coir should SWIM get? Is one brand better than another? 2. SWIM is in a very dry place, almost no humidity, should he use perlite to keep the humidity strong? 3. Does SWIM need conduct various air exchanges? As he has read both no and yes. 4. How deep should the substrate be? Thanks in advance and Ill make sure to post some pics with the results.
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Modtastic Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,034
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1. any kind of coir designed for pet/reptile bedding would be fine, any brand. make sure you don't get coir for plants - it's full of trich! 2. are you using a dubtub or monotub for this bulk? in that case, no perlite is required - they hold their humidity very well. perlite should really only be used if you're putting a bulk tray inside a larger fruiting chamber. 3. air exchanges are good, yes, but don't need to overdo it. i keep FAE pretty low during colonization and pinning, then increase a bit during fruiting, but even then only 1-3x per day for about 30 seconds each. you can also put more holes in your tub to decrease amount of fanning needed. 4. 3-4" is a good substrate depth.
__________________ tonight your ghost will ask my ghost, who put these bodies between us? |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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I agree with Mydarling. Good advice all around there. I like a monotub setup - no perlite - little fanning I use Eco-Earth coir. As a suggestion, if you can get some old pasture collected Horse Manure you'll do much better. I think worm casting contam too easy.
__________________ "...we'd like to help you learn to help yourself..." |
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| Dr. Durgs Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,456
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
I think that's how I shot myself in the foot so many years ago.. I bought coir from a hydroponics store ![]() Some like their subs deep, others go for surface area. Depends on how much fruiting you want done at which time.
__________________ "Soo, babies don't come out the butt?" | |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Prone to ranting... Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,050
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IMHO, coir and worm castings both work better if they are sterilized in a PC run instead of Pasteurized. I like about 3.5-4 inches for a substrate depth.
__________________ Banzai Institute for Higher Education (a collection of growing Teks & threads) |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Mycophage Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 813
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You have to make sure you get the organic kind; i specifically asked the dude at the store if it had any additives such as anti-fungals or trich mold spores, etc and he showed me a little picture on the bag stating it to be approved by some environmental agency as "pure" (kinda like USDA approved meat I guess). The only reason I got it at the hydro store is because absolutely NO pet stores around here stock coco coir as bedding.
__________________ "Go then. There are other worlds than these" | |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Addicted to Invitro Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,877
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That is weird about the coir. I know that PetSmart and Petco both stock it--although you may live in a very rural area that does not have the big box stores. If you are just using coir (the non-trich type) and not mixing with poo or whatnot, you don't have to do anything to it except soak it in hot water for 15-30 minutes, let it cool, and use it.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
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So a few days ago, SWIM opened his bulk substrate with a nightmare of contaminants taking over the almost fully colonized substrate .... SWIM was so bummed out. So he has one cake left that he did not crumble, it is fruiting its first flush....He was thinking he could make some more bulk substrate and put that cake in there after its first flush. What do you guys think? Also SWIM would be use the pc this time to make sure the baddies are all killed. How long should the coir, castings, and verm be pc'd for?Here's a quick pic his last remaining cake
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates |
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Mycophage Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 813
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
Also, that one cake is not going to be very much spawn, maybe just do a mini bulk? Like a Tupperware?
__________________ "Go then. There are other worlds than these" | |
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
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Ok this is what he'll do. but SWIM wants to know how one gets the right water threshold if it has been soaking??? Do you let the substrate dry out then mix??? Thanks for the help
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates | |
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Addicted to Invitro Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,877
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
To answer your question on moisture content, you always want your substrate at field capacity, wherein you can only squeeze a few water drops from a fistful--that's for casing material, bulk material, or cake mix. Sorry about the contams. Good luck. | |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Addicted to Invitro Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,877
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Ish, I have never worked with castings. Buck swears that sterilizing them is the way to go. And if you look at his results, he must be on to something. I have read of others pasteurizing successfully. God, contams can be caused by a lot of different things. I always seem to realize what I screwed up after the fact, lol. |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| We Get Lifted Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 585
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Not to thread jack. But as far as coir goes; I have used, and exclusively use coir from hydoponic stores. Before I put the coir to use I always bring the water up to a boil before hydrating it. The only reason I mention this is because of price. As coir is already quite expensive; "bed-a-beast" brand cost about 5.00 a brick. I can get my coir from a local hydo retailer at 2.00 a brick. I have used both and I know from experience.... that as long as you pasteurize or sterilize the coir first........ trich is not an issue. Just trying to save people a few bucks.......
__________________ I live life like the captain of a sinking ship................. |
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| | #17 (permalink) | |
| We Get Lifted Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 585
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
2. This would depend on how big your trying to go. Bu judging from the amount of cakes. I would say go dub tub or something of the sort. I myself went the way of the green house, cool mist ect. 3. In my experience the more air exchange the better. Although you must be able to maintain humidity. As for my setup I have fresh air exchanged 24/7 via a coolmist. 4. Substrate depth normally anywhere from four to six inches deep.
__________________ I live life like the captain of a sinking ship................. | |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| -=Seeker=- Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 201
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This is a good source of coir. And happens to be on sale right now. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6016+6040+6494&pcatid=6494 |
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| | #19 (permalink) | |
| and sniff Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 313
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The surface of that cake has already been exposed to the elements. Very likely that contaminants have landed on the surface. That won't hurt the fully colonized cake, but, add fresh nutrients for the contams to grow on and you'll have trouble. Instead, let that cake grow out. Collect some spore prints and perhaps take a clone or two for future studies. Good Luck! | |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Prone to ranting... Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,050
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I use American Agritech / Botanicare coir. I love the bales. Huge amount of coir for $25-$30 and virtually zero shipping. Great stuff. Hydro stores put it on special all the time... I also use General Hydroponics coir in a pinch. I ALWAYS sterilize coir. The Botanicare coir I mention is treated with trich spores (this is a *very* good thing for plants). I always sterilize it for use with mushies. The weird thing about coir is that it just never seems to contaminate (when it is by itself). Even sawdust and wood chips will contaminate if you leave them lying around wet in a closed up container for long enough. Not coir. I have never seen coir alone spontaneously contaminate (and I have been playing with coir for 10+ years - seriously, it is a great soil additive). I also always sterilize worm castings. But they also don't seem to ever spontaneously contaminate. I use Wiggle Worms castings from 30lb bags - very reliable, always the same results (good).
__________________ Banzai Institute for Higher Education (a collection of growing Teks & threads) |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
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Hi all. So Swim finally got another project going, 2 days into colinization of bulk substrate. Decided to use h poo instead of castings and all seems well. When should a casing be applied though? Should swim wait until the substrate is fully colonized or should it be cased right now. Also should the casing be dry or to yeild capacity? Going to use 50/50 verm/coir. Very excited about this one.
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates Last edited by sluis88; 10-20-09 at 01:28. Reason: added pics |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Addicted to Invitro Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,877
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No need for a casing layer if those are cubensis. You already have plenty of moisture in the substrate, and a casing layer would just slow things down at this point. If you do case, make sure the casing mix is at field capacity moisture-wise (a few water droplets from a squeezed fistful), and since your tray is rockin' you should make it fairly thin (less than 1" thick for certain). It looks great. Good luck! |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 696
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Yeap, I can confirm ehehe No case is needed =] Nice tub, wait a little more to induce it to pin, so youŽll have plenty results ^^ Good luck
__________________ I donŽt know the key to success, but the key to failure is trying to please everybody. |
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
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Hi, thanks for the advice guys. I decided to case it. Not in a hurry and want to have a good yield with these guys. I'll submit some pictures when I get home later today. Just had two quick questions, do flourscent lights work to I induce pinning? And also should I dunk my substrate after each flush? I got cubies
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Addicted to Invitro Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,877
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Yeah, dunk it for a few hours between flushes. Just flood the sub with water, put something heavy on top to hold it underwater (I use a couple paving stones), and drain it off after a few hours (I find 2 hours to be enough, but many dunk longer.
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| | #29 (permalink) | |
| Psychedelic Fan Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 71
![]() | Quote:
cant wait!
__________________ The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates | |
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