Outdoor "Victory Garden" vs. surveilance methods

[FDK]

So I'm planning on starting a lil' Victory Garden in my efforts in the War on drugs and have a pretty straightforward question about the surveilance methods employed by the Fun-Nazis to find the aformentioned Gardens.

Thanks to FLIR tech. I wont be doing a hothouse, but I'm wondering if anyone has heard of any sort of thermal or MRI type imaging equipment which they can use to spot plants directly other than with standard observation thru normal optics (Scopes, Zoom lenses etc.)

The idea I'm toying with is pretty simple, based on a "Low-stress method" Tek I read wherein the plants get pegged down to the ground so as to not only give them the appearance of a ground-hugging shrub or vine to the naked eye (At a distance) but also turning all the branching points into pseudo-tops where according to this Tek I read (from http://www.rollitup.org ) are supposed to produce nothing but Cola buds. Not sure how well this works in practice however.

The garden plot is on some fairly remote property (Fairly certain I've been the first person to set foot there in over 3 years) and the trees provide a fair amount of air cover along the rock wall where I intend to grow my "Vines" so I should be ok as long as the Cop-Choppers which do frequent fly-by's in the area dont use some sort of special imaging technology which would make the labors of my green thumb stick out like a sore thumb.

Granted the local Fun-nazi's are quite busy looking for meth-labs (They pop up about as often as the Mushrooms here), but they have been known for spotting the occasional field or two. I'm just trying to cover as many saftey-corners as possible with my project. Only planning on having about 12 or so plants stretched and scattered across a 300'x30' area.

Any thoughts or additional precautions anyone might have to add?

**Edit**

On a side note to those who have tried this low-stress method of growing,,, Have you tried going as far as to make small cuts into the plat at the tie-down points and dust the area with rooting hormone in hopes of giving the plant another rooting point? Not sure if it would give any great benefit to the growth / potency of the plant really, just an interesting idea which crossed my mind.

[twoguysupnorth]

lst does work well either outdoors or indoors. as far as hiding them make sure they are in small clusters that dont look like rows. 3-4 in a bunch and try not to disturb the area too much. a freshly dug patch is visable because of the heat it can put off but just try and not make it too big so it might be an animal bed or something.

[suckerfree]

FLIR can't see your plants. If you are standing in the field at night, the FLIR will see you, but not your plants. In the day time FLIR does not work. If you hear a chopper fly by during the day and you are out there -don't look up- the sweat and shine of your face will point you out.

Like Twoguys says, don't plant them in rows, use random patterns. Don't leave shit like white foam cups laying around because they stand out like sore thumbs. Don't wear paths from your watering hole (like going to a lake back and forth) the trails are visible from the air.

[FDK]

Sweet, just what I was hoping to hear.

"Trailblazing" isn't too big a concern as the area is part of the rural 2 acre stretch where I live. There is another dwelling close to the grow area which has been uninhabited for about 3 yrs so I'd hope any paths will be viewed as "natural" for the environment. Where I'll be doing "Other things" and the area has an abundance of undergrowth which I'm hoping will provide a nice hiding spot for the crop.

I wasn't planning on really digging up much beyond the 3 or 4" spots to plant in and theres a 3" thick layer of pine needle and oak leaves mulching away that I can use to hide any black earth. Basicly so thick a layer, most mushrooms never make it thru and sadly the few I've seen were Destroying Angels and other unedibles.

As far as watering goes I was thinking of simply leaving it to nature to handle as the area is pretty much at the bottom of a hill, close to a natural drainage path (8' or so) unless ofcourse I see that the plants are in dire need.

There is a chance as mentioned that a Deer or two might decide my garden is a good spot to nap in however, any thoughts on a good method of discouraging this?

As far as desired quality at the end, I'm not lazy by any means and hope for a nice batch of hermaphrodites as iir all the seeds from such will produce female plants (folklore b.s. or fact?) so if anyone has a tip on encouraging them I'd be much appreciative.

Some of my ideas on this may seem a bit backwards but then to date Smoking has been my only hemp-related hobby.

[TVCasualty]

Nothing like planning a garden in mid-June!

"Trailblazing" isn't too big a concern as the area is part of the rural 2 acre stretch where I live. There is another dwelling close to the grow area which has been uninhabited for about 3 yrs so I'd hope any paths will be viewed as "natural" for the environment.

Don't count on it. Uninhabited houses tend to look that way, and a path next to one would raise some questions if seen. Plus abandoned houses are "attractive nuisances" so I'd avoid planting near one, but I don't know your specific situation so it might be fine.

If you do have to cut vegetation to get to your area, make random zig-zags in the trail so the switchbacks obscure it (no long, straight runs), and spraypaint the cut ends of branches flat black or brown. Don't make a 'good' trail, make it barely passable.

Besides trails and garbage, another thing spotters in helicopters look for is "the hand." It's the unique shape of cannabis sun-leaves. They stick out as very obvious to a trained observer, and a large area can be scanned for the shape fairly quickly. If they spot the pattern, they circle around and try to zoom in with a stronger scope, and if it still looks probable they'll call in the ground team.

Some growers are removing these leaves after budding is underway, and without the big leaves the plants will most likely not be seen at all. There are other tricks (one is cannaflage; very fine, light netting draped over the plants w/ fake vegetation woven in randomly; I've never used it though) and some places lend themselves to unique strategies, like growing in buckets way up in trees (be creative).

I've kept rabbits away from my young 'uns outdoors by using small plastic containers I cut some holes in and filled with mothballs. Not sure if that would work for deer. The containers keep rain/water off the mothballs so they last longer and don't leach into the soil (I tucked them into the ground very close to the plant). I spraypainted the containers flat black first.

FWIW: The single most successful outdoor grower I ever knew planted about one or two trees away from interstate shoulders. In hilly stretches along the interstate he'd plant one or two up high and just inside the treeline. He'd put one or two on each suitable hill for a stretch of about a mile. Never had a single plant get discovered over many years. A few got eaten though...

Good Luck!

[FDK]

Well I'm hoping for the sake that this 1/4 acre grow plot is fairly wooded with 30+ft. tall Pines and Oaks further surrounded by thick forest, and the undergrowth is pretty dense that by pegging the plant down so as to keep it about a foot from ground, the local flora will help to keep my plants from waving hello or flipping the bird to the Fun-nazis (Fingers crossed) The majority of undergrowth is nearly at my waist and I'm 6'5. I'm also one of those oddball nature freaks who even feels a tinge of guilt when trodding on plants so I tend to try and walk on the boulder tips and large flat rocks which are pretty well scattered around the area.

But I'm really curious now as to the concept of getting the plant to root at multiple pointslike a creeping vine would by treating the tie-down points with rooting hormone. If it works it would sure help cut down on watering runs.
I'm definatly going to try it if no one says it's not possible (Probably test on a few regardless), but if someone has any experience with such a technique I'd sure not mind hearing about it.

[trolldom]

Originally Posted by suckerfree

FLIR can't see your plants. If you are standing in the field at night, the FLIR will see you, but not your plants. In the day time FLIR does not work. If you hear a chopper fly by during the day and you are out there -don't look up- the sweat and shine of your face will point you out.

Like Twoguys says, don't plant them in rows, use random patterns. Don't leave shit like white foam cups laying around because they stand out like sore thumbs. Don't wear paths from your watering hole (like going to a lake back and forth) the trails are visible from the air.

Just for the record, FLIR does work during the day. Remarkably well actually. I worked on several sensors in the military, AAQ-26 IDS, (infrared detection set) being one of them. Which is basically FLIR, just a different acronym.

Just wanted to clear things up.

[suckerfree]

Originally Posted by trolldom

Just for the record, FLIR does work during the day. Remarkably well actually. I worked on several sensors in the military, AAQ-26 IDS, (infrared detection set) being one of them. Which is basically FLIR, just a different acronym.

Just wanted to clear things up.

Thanks for clearing that up...
Damn the cheapest FLIR camera i've found so far is $12,000
to rent - about $700 a week!

anyone find cheaper?

[FDK]

Just for the record, FLIR does work during the day.

So are you saying you think that Sunlight would be enough for the plants to give off a unique therkmal signature to the FLIR unit or just that it's just as possible to spot waste heat?

[BuckarooBanzai]

Can't comment on the FLIR, but I do see one problem:

LST requires a decent amount of hands on work, bending, weighing down branches, spreading growth. If you let it go two weeks without training, it will be growing straight up again.

You might consider one of the autoflowering strains, like Lowrider. They only get so big and then they flower automatically - regardless of day/night length.

[FDK]

Oh thats no problem, I'm just lazy and dont feel like running that much hose or running down buckets. I'm burning enough energy digging up clay & sandstone boulders.

[FDK]

And on a side note for the "Zone 6" climate, what would a "last chance" plant date be? I've heard July-ish in most cases. Correct?

[twoguysupnorth]

zone 4 plants planted late, like now can produce an ounce or more by oct. lots of variables though. end of sept. is good but if you have to and can go to the middle of october. you are much warmer than me so i think you will get something, sunshine kicks hid's ass every time.

[FDK]

Yay! Time to find that stack of wire hangers I never use

Thanks for the support.