DMT tek compilation (quite unorganized but could be helpful)

[AndyLandy420]

this is not so much a specific tek but a compilation of information i found useful in extracting DMT from mhrb, hope it helps someone...



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Vovin’s Tek (mod) -<o></o>

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Step 1: Breaking Down the Root

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used: 200 Grams


It is absolutely essential that you break down the root to as fine material as possible. The result of this process will directly effect the amount of DMT you will extract.

One of the best way's I have found to break down the root is to cut it into small pieces with a pair of scissors. Then freeze the root for 4 hours in a freezer. This makes the root very hard and brittle. Place the root into a blender. I highly recommend a Glass blender (600w recommended, but 450w will work) instead of a plastic. The coarseness of the root will scar the plastic blender a great deal and you will have a small amount of very fine plastic in your bark.

Once you have sufficiently powdered your bark you will end up with 2 materials. One the powder, the second will be a tuft of very fine fibers. Don't handle or disturb the material any more than you have to. The powder gets into the air easily thus reducing the material. You will be using the powder and the fibrous material in your extractions.

Photo 1& 2: Mimosa as it was shipped to me. AA battery has been placed in the image to give a sense of size.

Photo 3: Mimosa before it was put into the blender notice that I have cut it into small pieces to make it easier for the blender to handle.

Photo 4: After several minutes in the blender. Notice that there is powder and fiber. This is normal.
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Step 2: Extraction

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used: 200 Grams-Powdered
Distilled Water: 2400ml Adjusted to a pH of 2-3 using Hydrochloric Acid - 3 batches

In this next step you will be removing the DMT molecule from the bark. To do this you will create an acidic solution and add it to the root bark. It is very important that you do not overheat the bark material. Heat will break down the DMT and cause a loss in yield.

First place around 2400ml of distilled water in a glass or stainless steel cooker (NO ALUMINUM). Once the water has begun to simmer place a couple drops of hydrochloric acid into the pot. It only takes a few drops to get the pH down to 4. Don't overdo it.

Check the pH. If it is too high then add more acid. If it is too low add more water. Your goal is to have a solution with pH 4. If you allow the water to simmer for a long period of time recheck the pH level before adding it to the root bark.

Place the ground up mimosa from step 1 into jar A. Slowly add the acidified water solution to Jar A using a turkey baster. You want it to be enough water to completely cover the bark material but you don't want too much water because it will make latter steps more difficult. You probably won't use all 2400ml. I used a little more then 600ml for each extraction. But it's good to have the extra water on hand just in case.

Shake the contents vigorously and allow this material to soak for 45 minutes. Occasionally stir the material. While it is soaking make another batch of acidified water the same way as mention before. Have it warm and read to use. To keep the first flask, Jar A warm use a second pot to boil up some regular water. Place the flask into the pot. This is called a heat bath. It will keep a constant warm temperature for a long while. You may need to reheat the water after awhile. Don't place the heat bath on the stove with the Jar A still inside remove it and reheat the water then place it back into the bath.

After 45 minutes strain the material in Jar A into Jar D (Jar D is the jar attached to the Buchner Filter). Place a filter cloth in the buchner filter head and use the hand pump to cause a vacuum in the jar. This will force the liquid down into the jar and the plant material will be caught in the filter. Try to make sure you get as much of the liquid out of the bark as possible. Once the bark has been strained sufficiently place it immediately into Jar B. Add the newly acidified water to jar B. Allow jar B to soak for 45 minutes.

As Jar B soaks prepare a third batch of acidified water same as above. Once Jar B has soaked for 45 minutes place the contents of it on the filter of Jar D and filter the liquid out. Place the bar material in Jar C and add the newly acidified water to is same as you have done before. Allow it to soak for 45 minutes.

After 45 minutes use the buchner filter set up on Jar D to filter the contents of Jar C. The resulting liquid for all 3 extraction's can now be added into one jar so place them all into jar C now. Now to make sure we got rid of all of the plant material we are going to place a round filter in the buchner filter (D) and filter this liquid again. The result will be your bark solution. Slowly pour the contents of Jar C into the head of the filter. Do not put a lot of the liquid into the funnel at once. You will most likely need to swap filters several times as the pores of the filter becomes clogged with sediment. Once you are done filtering place the liquid back into Jar C.

Photo 1: The powder is placed into the first flask

Photo 2: Once the Distilled water is heated and adjusted to a pH of 4 we add just enough of it to cover the bark material in the flask.

Photo 3: The flask is then placed in a pot of hot water. This will keep it warm For the duration of the soak. Notice I have placed a piece of cling wrap on the top of the flask. This ensures no water will evaporate and will prevent accidental spilling. I have poked a small hole in the wrap to allow ventilation. Remove the flask every few minutes and shake. The stove is not on when I have the flask in the pot. I remove the flask and reheat the water in the pot when it cools down.
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Step 3: Reducing and Decanting

Acidic liquid

Place Jar C into the refrigerator to sit overnight. This is commonly called fridge decanting. In the morning you will see a layer of sludge on the bottom of your container. This is sediment that was so fine it passed through your filters in the previous step. But now it has settled and clumped together. Set up the buchner filter once again and run your liquid thru it. Since the sediment is all clumped together it will now catch in the filter much easier. Usually after doing this step I get an extremely clear liquid that I can easily see thru. If you don't and you have the time try decanting in the fridge again and re filtering.

Now that you have the acidic liquid decanted you want to reduce it down to a workable size. This step may not be necessary if you have the equipment large enough to handle the amount of liquid you have x 2 (the basifying procedure will make the volume increase roughly times 2). You will need to place all of the liquid in a glass casserole dish and place it in the oven and turn it to its lowest setting. Warm the solution. Again keep it warm do not overheat it. This will be a very slow process and will most likely take an hour or two. You should be trying to wind up with around 1000ml of solution. Check the solution every 15 minutes to make sure it is not getting too hot.

If you get a film forming over your solution you most likely reduced it down too much add a little distilled water to the solution and remove it from the oven.

Once you have reduced the liquid down to around 1000ml you can place it into Jar A. I have found the safest way to transfer the solution is with the turkey baster Just suck it from the casserole dish and put it into the jar. If your try to pour the liquid even with a funnel it can sometimes spill.

Photo 3: After you have filtered the material. You will need to place the extracted water into the fridge to sit overnight. You can't see it well in this picture but at the bottom there is a thin film of sludge. This is tiny particles that made it through the filter.
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Photo 1& 2: After removing the sludge place the liquid into a glass baking dish and place it in the oven set on the lowest setting. After it has reduced a decent amount you can put it back into a flask and measure how much liquid you have. I was able to reduce down to just a little over 1000ml.
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Step 4: Defatting

Extracted liquid
Naphtha 100ml X 3

Some people choose not to defat their extractions. Usually this is the reason why you get an oily result instead of crystals. To get pure crystals you have to defat. You will be doing 3 defats. The process is the same each time.

Place your extraction into the separatory funnel. Add 100ml of warm naphtha. DO NOT warm the naphtha directly it is very flammable. The best way to do this is put it into a flask and place that flask into hot water for a few minutes, a heat bath.

Once the naphtha is added you will need to stir the mixture. You can do this by turning the separatory funnel end over end making sure that the cork at the top is in control and will not fall out. I usually tape it on rather thoroughly; keep in mind you will need to allow the air to escape every couple minutes. What I usually do is turn the funnel upside down and open the valve at the bottom for a couple seconds to vent. Do not shake the separatory funnel. If you do you will trap air in the naphtha and it will be very difficult to get a separation. Turn it end over end for around 5 minutes.

After you have sufficiently mixed the contents sit it in a stand and let it sit still until there is a distinct separation between the naphtha and the extract. This could take up to several hours sometimes. To speed up the process try running hot water like in a shower or sink if it's big enough, over your separatory funnel and allow the mixture to sit for a few more minutes. This should get the separation to work. Make sure none of the water gets into the separatory funnel. You will also need to remove the cork and allow air to escape from the container. I usually put a piece of cling wrap on the top with a couple small holes punched in it. This allows venting without evaporation.

Once the materials have separated place a flask at the bottom of the funnel and open the valve. You will need to close the valve quickly when it reaches the naphtha. You should now have your extraction in a flask and the naphtha in the funnel. You can discard the naphtha and begin the process again. You will need to do this 3 times. Be sure to clean your funnel well between defats.

After you have finished the third defat you are ready to continue on to the next step.

Photo 1: A picture of the separatory funnel with naphtha just added. I haven't mixed the liquids yet.

Photo 2: One of the first things I do is tape down the cap of the funnel so that I don't have to worry about it falling off as I tip it to stir the liquids together. I prefer to tip end over end instead of shaking because it creates a whole lot less bubbles.

Photo 3: After mixing the liquids for a few minutes you can see that there are quite a few bubbles in the naphtha. Running the funnel under hot water for a few minutes will help get rid of these pesky little troublemakers. If you’re separatory funnel won't fit into the sink use the shower.

Photo 4:
Once the liquids have separated sufficiently I will open the bottom valve of the separatory funnel and drain out the extract, cutting it off right when it reaches the naphtha.
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Step 5: Basifying

Defatted extraction
Distilled Water
Lye crystals

You will need to prepare a base solution by taking 800ml of warm distilled water and adding lye to it. Lye is a very volatile material so be very careful with it. Add very small amounts of lye to the water and stir it well. Test the pH often. You are aiming for a pH of 13.4. Once you have the pH at the desired level. Bring out your extraction and place it into the separatory funnel. You will now be adding this lye water to your extraction. Do so in small quantities. Very slowly and while stirring the extraction. I usually hold the funnel in one hand rotating it so as to create a whirlpool effect in the funnel and use the other hand to add the base.

You will notice that the liquid will become gray in color and will eventually turn black, this is normal. Check the pH of your extraction. You are trying to reach a pH level of 13.4. Keep adding the lye water to the extraction until you reach this pH, but stir well to ensure an accurate measurement.

At some point you will probably need to split your liquid because the volume has gotten too big and you cannot add any more base solution. It's totally fine to do this if you need to. This is what I had to do between steps 4 and 5 in the pictures.

Once you have gotten a pH level of 13.4 you will need to shake the container by turning end over end. Every couple of seconds stop and release the air that has built up.

The extraction will now look like a thick black tar like liquid. Double-check the pH level of your liquid and make sure the pH level is 13.4. You have now completed the basifying procedure.

Photos 1-7: Here are some images of the basifying procedure as the process carries on. You can easily see where the liquid turns from dark red to gray than to a brownish black.

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Photo 8: After adding the base solution to your extract you will have quite a bit of liquid. It over doubled my extraction size which was previously only 1100ml. Now it takes up 2 flasks.<o></o>
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Step 6: Extracting the DMT

Basified liquid
Naphtha 100ml X3 (6 if you had to split your liquid in half during basification)

The time has now come to extract the DMT from the solution. You will be doing this step 3 times to make sure you have gotten all of the DMT you can. Keep your fingers crossed your in the home stretch now.

Place 100ml of warm naphtha into the separatory funnel. Tape the cap down and mix the liquids by turning the funnel end over end. Release the bottom valve every few seconds to let off any built up vapor. You need to make sure the liquids are thoroughly mixed and that the naphtha has come in contact with all of the extract. At this point the DMT is making a move from the extraction to the naphtha.

After stirring well allow the funnel to separate until you can see 2 distinct layers. On top will be the naphtha that now contains the DMT. On the bottom will be your basified extract. Usually it takes some time before the liquids separate completely and a definite line can be seen between the two. You can help this process along by doing a hot bath. Place the funnel into the sink or shower and run hot water over it for about 10 minutes. Then allow the funnel to sit for awhile and you should get a good separation. If not reheat the funnel again and perform the same procedure.

You will now need to drain off the extraction. One very important thing here is to get all of the naphtha you can without getting any of the extract. If you get the black extract in the naphtha then this will end up in your final product and this is not good. I usually cut the valve off a little late in the first two separations just to be safe. Any naphtha that is left in the extractions on the first 2 will carry over into the third and thus there is no worry of loss. The third separation is where you will need to be very careful to get all the naphtha as possible without getting any of the extraction.

Once you have drained off the extraction place another flask at the bottom of the funnel and drain off the naphtha. This is one of the few times I do not recommend cleaning your funnel between processes. Some naphtha will stick inside the funnel and this time it has DMT in it so try to keep it. Now re insert the extract and add a fresh batch of naphtha and repeat the process.

Once you have all 3 of the naphtha liquids extracted from the process let it sit and see if any of the black extraction has made it into your product. If it has then you need to get it out.

You are now ready to do a wash.

Photo 1& 2: After adding the naphtha to the basified solution and mixing I ran hot water over the funnel for several minutes. This really helps get the separation. After that I let it set for about 15 minutes. Look how sharp the line between the naphtha and the basified solution is. There are still a few big bubbles but they can be popped with a copper wire easily. <o></o>
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Step 7: Washing

Naphtha from step 6
Distilled Water
Sodium (bi)Carbonate

This is a somewhat new process that is not found in many of the older tek's. This process will try to remove as many of the foreign chemicals from the naphtha solution as possible. Especially the lye that was added in a previous step. The goal here is to leave only the DMT in the naphtha so that when you evaporate you end up with pure crystals.

Begin by taking about 100ml of Distilled water and placing it into a flask and adding sodium carbonate to it. Just add a slight pinch to the water. It doesn't take much. You will only be using this mixture for the first wash. Do not use it for the second and third washes.

A little dab will do yah here, add only a small amount of the water/sodium carbonate solution to your naphtha. If you have 150ml of naphtha then you want to put around 13ml of the sodium carbonated water. Mix the 2 together and then place them in a separatory funnel. Shake the hell out of it this is the only mixing step where the liquids separate almost immediately so no worries about too much agitation. Separate the water from the naphtha and discard the water.

For the second and third washes you want to use only distilled water nothing should be added. 13ml per wash is sufficient. Perform the same procedure as above. You should not leave the water in the naphtha for too long. This means no sitting for hours letting it 'soak' you need to get it in and out.

Photo 1: After a healthy shaking the water and the naphtha almost immediately separate. Only if all separations were this easy. The water is on the bottom of the funnel.

Photo 2: After 3 washes the naphtha is clear as glass.
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Step 8-A: Evaporation

Naphtha from step 7

Note: There are 2 ways to get the DMT out of your solvent. This step will have a higher yield but the other will result in a purer product as well as enable you to reuse the naphtha. The other process is below.


This is the final stage. Pour the naphtha that you have collected into a glass baking dish. You will now need to let this stuff evaporate. I do not recommend attempting to speed along the process by having a fan blow over the dish. This will cause dust and small insects to get caught in the naphtha.

Patience is a virtue. You need to take your time on this step and let the naphtha evaporate naturally. Lately I have placed a cloth T-shirt over the baking dish. Tape the sides down so that it doesn't fall into the naphtha. This doesn't cause much of an issue with the evaporation as the cotton is porous, and it guarantees that there will be no dust or bugs in your final material. I have heard some people taping a paper towel over the dish to keep out this stuff.

When looking for a place to evaporate remember to keep it away from any and all electrical devices such as motors. These items give off sparks which can ignite the fumes. And of course keep the naphtha out of reach of open flames as well.

The bad thing about evaporating the naphtha is that it smells. So if you are trying to do this in a house or apartment where you don't want others to know you are in for a challenge.

Depending on the volume of naphtha and the size of you evaporation dish it can take anywhere from a few day to 2 weeks for the naphtha to evaporate. Once the naphtha has completely evaporated you will need to take a razor blade and scrape all of the crystals off of the baking dish. Get them all now.

If you are impatient you can speed up the process by using a fan and a large Rubbermaid storage container. The containers are usually 5-10 dollars at Wal-Mart. People use them to store clothes usually. Cut 2 holes in each end and cover the holes with a thin cloth. Place the fan and the evap dish in the container and close the lid. This will keep out any foreign particles and still speed up the evaporation. This can be placed outside so the fumes can dissipate easily.

Photo 1: Now comes the hard part, Waiting. I have placed the naphtha in the casserole dish to evaporate. Keep your fingers crossed.
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Step 8-B: Freeze Seperation

The following process was discovered by 23. The process is relatively simple to perform and basically results in a recrystallization process which is known to yield a very pure final product.

The only big issue here is that you need to use as little naphtha as possible during your 7th step. When crystallizing there needs to be a degree of saturation in the solvent or super saturation. If there is more solvent than product not all the DMT will fall out. So the key is to use as little solvent as possible 50ml or less per extract, maybe the last extract use 25ml. So during step 7 make sure your chemicals are very warm this will increase their ability to absorb DMT. Cold solvent won't absorb as much as warm solvent.

After you crystallize out of the solvent and filter out the crystals put the solvent back into the fridge to extract a second yield. After placing a flask with the spent solvent in the freezer that there are more crystals in there now. So do this a few times till there are no more crystals forming in the solvent. Maybe if you just leave it in the freezer for a few days all the crystals will solidify out, but always double check. You can reuse this solvent for 3 or more extractions. This will save you money as well as at a later time you can evap it off to get any of the remaining DMT although it will most likely be less pure than the original.

As you can see in step 1 you need to place all of the solvent in an airtight container. This is essential if you place it in the freezer open ice will form and as it melts it will get into your naphtha.

After 24 hours in the freezer you can remove the container. Then use a metal object to break the crystals from the side of the container. You must keep the fluid cold as possible. If it begins to warm place it back into the freezer. If it gets warm then it will redissolve the DMT.

Once you have filtered all of the solvent you can scrape the DMT off the filter paper. If you want you can allow the paper to dry this makes the crystals easier to remove.

Place the solvent back into the freezer for 24 hours and see if any more crystals will fall out. If so repeat the separation process.

After the separation store the naphtha in a container. You can use this at a later time for your next extraction.

Photo 1: After the solvent is removed from the freezer. Pour the solvent off quickly now or it will redissolve the DMT as it warms.

Photo 2: You can see that the DMT has fallen out of the solvent.

Photo 3: Take a small metal item and break the crystals loose from the edge of the container.

Photo 4: Now you will use a buchner filter to separate the DMT from the solvent. If the liquid has begun to warm too much. Place it back into the freezer. You want it to stay cold so the DMT does not redisolve.

Photo 5: Place the solvent into the filter and perform the separation.

Photo 6: Scrape the crystals from the filter paper.

Photo 7: All Done <o></o>
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Step 9: Solvent Wash

This is something I have just recently developed. Even if you follow the tek above perfectly a small amount of basified solution will make it into your final result. This basified solution contains LYE which is extremely harsh to smoke. By doing this solvent wash after you have scrapped up the crystals you can virtually eliminate all of the lye in your final result as well as many other contaminants.

Once you have scrapped up your result from step 8 place it in a small glass container. In another container place a small amount of Naphtha and run hot water over it. You want the naphtha to be warm to the touch.

Once this is done add about 100ml of naphtha to the flask holding the crystals. If this is not enough to dissolve all of the crystals then add a little more. The goal here is to put just enough naphtha into the flask to dissolve the DMT but not too much because you want it to evap quickly. Stir the flask by swirling it around. Do not place anything in the flask as you will disturb the sediment that should build up on the bottom. If the crystals do not want to dissolve then place the flask in a pot of hot water (heat bath). This will make the basified junk gummy and it will loose form and sink to the bottom adhering to the bottom of the flask.

Allow the flask to sit for one minute. Then pour off the naphtha. Once you have gotten all of the naphtha add about 20ml more to the flask and swirl it around. This is to make sure you have gotten all of the spice. You can then add this 20ml to the other 150ml making sure that no sediment from the bottom makes it over. If you feel you still may have DMT in the flask by all means add more naphtha and attempt to dissolve it. There's no rule to how many times you can add naphtha the sediment after being in the heat bath should be stuck to the bottom quite well. So use as much naphtha as you feel is necessary.

You can now evap off the naphtha and recollect your crystals. They should be much cleaner and show a more defined crystalline structure.

If there is still junk you can do a second wash. You should loose very little DMT on each wash so do as many as you need to get a good final result.

Photo 1: I placed the DMT into a 400ml flask to dissolve. When I first acquired this DMT it was very white but over the period of 10 day's it has taken a yellowish tint.

Photo 2& 3: As you can see after the wash there is a layer of crud that has formed on the bottom of the flask. This is base solution that was caught up in the naphtha from step 8 and also some dust from the evap process.

Photo 4: Here is a shot after evap. It's not easy to see in this pic but instead of white crystals they have a much more transparent quality. They also do not turn to powder when scrapped.

<o></o>
Marsofold’s Tek-<o></o>

How to easily make DMT:
=======================
Break 1-Pound of Mimosa Hostilis rootbark into 2" pieces and grind it all up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time.
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Polar Extraction: Premix in an empty 1-Gallon plastic jug: 1-Pint White Vinegar & 3-1/2 Quarts Water. Put the ground up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crockpot, then fill it with the water-vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on "high". After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off most of the liquid into a 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container. Add the remaining water-vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn it on "high". After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again. Discard the rootbark fiber and save the two combined extractions in the 1-gallon container. Allow the vegetable particles in the extraction in the 1-gallon container to settle to the bottom overnight. Then pour off the liquid into an empty 1-Gallon GLASS wine jug, being careful not
to pour off any of the vegetable sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug.
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Basification: Premix in advance a solution of: 4 Tablespoons (50grams) of Sodium Hydroxide ("Red Devil" lye) with 1-Pint of HOT Water. Stir well. Slowly add this solution to the wine jug, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix the contents.
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Nonpolar Extraction: Add 200ml of (Ace Hardware)VM&P Naptha to the wine jug, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 3 full minutes to mix the contents. Allow the jug to sit undisturbed on a table for 3 hours. There should now be two layers visible in the jug, a lower dark one and a smaller clear one on top. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top layer into a pint mason jar. Be careful not to suck up any of the lower brown/black layer into the mason jar.
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Freeze-precipitation/wash: place the sealed mason jar in a FREEZER for 3 days to precipitate the crystals. Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart mason jar and putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel. Shake the naptha in the mason jar strongly to stir up all the crystals at the bottom and quickly pour while still very cold into the funnel for filtering. Impure yellow-white DMT crystals will be seen on the coffee filter paper. Allow the crystals to completely dry out on the filter paper in the funnel. Chill a bottle of NON-SOAPY clear Ammonium Hydroxide(Ace Hardware Janitorial Strength Ammonia) in a refrigerator. Slowly pour 35ml of the cold ammonia over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them. Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry out. You will now have 2-1/2 grams of white crystal DMT. Mix it with some parsley and smoke a little in your favorite pipe!

(chilled ammonia updated 4 aug 05 loki)

------UPDATE! Added june 8:

Here are some tips for improving the yield:
#1 Grind the rootbark up to 1mm diameter or smaller. Finer is better.
#2 Use three water-vinegar extractions rather than two. Divide up the water-vinegar mix so that you roughly use 50% for the first extraction, 25% for the second, and 25% for the third extraction. After the last extraction press out the fiber to squeeze the last bit of liquid from it.
#3 Basify to a ph of 13. If you don't have ph papers, basify till it turns black, then add an additional 25% of whatever amount of basification solution you used. This is to guarantee that you're at a ph of 13. The brown foam you see floating on top of the basified extract after tilting the jug should flatten out to a thickness of no more than 1/2" after 45 minutes or so if you've used enough lye. Add a bit more lye and re-tilt if it's thicker than that.
#4 Naptha: the freeze-precipitation technique is a double-edged sword. Very convenient and high quality, but highly dependent upon knowing the approximate amount of DMT expected to be precipitated. If you use too much naptha, then only a little bit precipitates out. If you use too little, then it doesn't extract it all out of solution. It is the simplest case of recrystalization. The best way using it if you aren't very sure of the yield is to use a slight excess to extract, then evaporate it down to 10% of the original volume. THEN freeze it. This will pretty much guarantee excellent results. For example: For a pound of rootbark use 500 milliliters of naptha to extract. Then evaporate it down to 50 milliliters. Then freeze it and filter out the crystals. By the way, you must very quickly filter it within a minute or two after removal from the freezer so it doesn't have any time to warm up. And your freezer can't be marginally cold. If it doesn't freeze ice cream HARD,then it isn't cold enough. -20C is about where it should be.
#5 Washing: Be sure that the crystals are absolutely DRY before washing. An alternative to the ammonia-water wash is to use 25 milliliters of ICE COLD distilled water to wash. <o></o>
<o></o>
<o></o>


Rundown-<o></o>

- Grind 200g MHRB as fine as possible.<o></o>
- Mix a gallon of distilled water with acid to get a gallon of PH=2-3 solution.<o></o>
- Cover the root powder with acid solution and allow it to sit in heat bath for 1-2 hours (do not boil the acid, barely simmer).<o></o>
- Strain the acid solution out and recover the root powder with fresh acid a total of 3 times.<o></o>
- On the last polar extraction, squeeze the powder into filter to get every last drop out, discard the plant material and combine all 3 acid ‘pulls’.<o></o>
- After all acid pulls are complete, depending on how many mls you have, you will need to boil it down to less than 1000ml.<o></o>
- Allow acid solution to sit in fridge overnight and run through a coffee filter to get every last bit of plant matter out.<o></o>
- Defat with 100ml (or 10% of total) naptha 3 times, add 100ml warm to hot naptha into the separatory funnel with acid solution, mix well without getting bubbles into the naptha and allow to separate, discard naptha and defat twice more, be sure to release pressure in separatory funnel often.<o></o>
- Add sodium hydroxide until it turns black and reaches a PH higher than 13.4, MUST have PH higher than 13.4, stir well when adding base to get accurate PH measurement .<o></o>
- Add 100ml warm/hot naptha to the basified solution and mix well without getting bubbles into naptha,(turn sep funnel end over end for at least 5 mins) release pressure in sep funnel often, separate layers and do a total of 3 (100ml) pulls with hot naptha. DO NOT allow any basified solution into the naptha that is being separated.<o></o>
- Evaporate the naptha all the way and you should get yellow, perhaps gooey crystals, scrape them up and put them in a jar, add just barely enough hot naptha to dissolve all the crystals and stir this mix up, (use a heatbath and mix it) you should have a yellow goo that wont dissolve, pour off the naptha and leave the yellow goo, add one or two more washes of hot naptha to be sure you get all residual DMT but not the yellow goo.<o></o>
- Mix up a batch of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and distilled water, just a pinch of baking soda per 100ml of distilled water, if you have 200ml naptha/DMT then use 20ml sodium bicarbonate solution, so that’s about 10%. Mix the two and shake the hell out of it, allow it to separate and discard the water, then do two more washes the same way only NO baking soda, just distilled water.<o></o>
- Allow the naptha to evaporate until it looks cloudy (super-saturated with DMT) then begin the freeze precipitation.<o></o>
- Put in freezer for a few days, many crystals should be noticeable, shake or scrape the crystals off of the container walls, and pour through a coffee filter (make sure the naptha is cold as shit), allow them to dry and wash them with the same baking soda solution as before, once with baking soda solution and then twice with distilled water, make sure all three washes are cold as shit and not very much liquid is required, very little.<o></o>
- Evap the filtered naptha to almost nothing and then freeze it again and see if any more DMT comes out of solution. <o></o>
<o></o>
<o></o>

Details/Tips –<o></o>

<o></o>
- DMT is soluable in naptha at about 1gram (dmt) per 100ml (naptha)<o></o>
- 1 kilogram of MHRB can contain over 10g of DMT if it’s really good, 5g is avg. <o></o>
- If too much naptha is used to dissolve the DMT, some DMT will not precipitate out of the solution in the freezer and it will be lost.<o></o>
- Good section = (Vovin's DMT extraction...)http://forums.mycotopia.net/showthread.php?t=2600<o></o>
- evaporate to the point that the naptha begins to get cloudy. Any further evaporation after this and I start to have flaky crystals drop out of solution. I have found that once I have this super saturated naptha, putting it into the freezer results in a nicer crystal structure precipitating out.<o></o>
- Put all of your (naptha evapped) crystals in a jar, and slowly add warm naptha. Dissolve all of the crystal in the warm naptha. Shake it up, and keep the naptha warm. You should have a ton of DMT dissolve in naptha, and some yellow goo on the bottom. Separate the layers, and put the DMT naptha into a separate jar. Add more warm naptha to the goo, shake, and separate. Repeat one more time. Take your jar of naptha containing DMT and put it in the freezer. Check on it three days later, and you'll have crystals all over the jar. Use a coffee filter to catch the crystals and dump the naptha into a jar. Let the jar evaporate down to almost nothing, and try to freeze precipitate again. Three days later, check on it, and see if you got anything else.<o></o>
- The liquid from the polar extraction was hot. Basification calls for adding lye to hot water, this hot solution was then added to the hot strained polar extraction. This is only mixed for 1 minute, so it is still hot when the naptha is added. Separation also happens quickly when it is warm. I didn't have to wait any longer than about 10 mins for the naptha to seperate. I believe this is key. Adding naptha to a large amount of hot liquid will make the naptha hot allowing it to hold/extract a larger amount of goodies than if done the next day at room temp. If you allow the large vessel of liquid to cool down and then you add room temp naptha, you aren't maximizing the extraction with naptha, even with multiple pulls.

<o></o>
<o></o>

[abaca]

A couple things. The solubility in naphta of 1g/100ml is at room temp, if you bring the temp to 125 it goes to about 1g/10ml. IMHO you should let the lye solution cool to room temp, at least under 100f. Also we've never had problems with the first and second solvent pulls seperating; the third can be a little stubborn and it usually end up in a warm water bath. When cleaning up with warm naphta no need to shake it, just swril it around. Also there is no need to wait 3 day in the freezer. We crank up our freezer to the coldest setting and put the jar under the cold air inlet. 30-60 minutes will precipitate most of the freebase.

[eezdharma]

Thanks Andy.

My FOAF is going to be placing a new order with BBB at the end of the month. I'll let you know his results.

[condo_pygmy]

I agree abaca, the tempurature has alot to do with quality yeilds, seems like right around room temp up to 100f will produce a cleaner product...

[AndyLandy420]

yo condo, do you mean the temp when freebase is dissolved by naptha? i have tried a few at room temp and a few as hot as my sink goes and i prefer hot, even if it is more gooey after first evap by the time i redissolve and then freeze precip its absolutley white, why do you prefer room temp? also i cant see how 10ml hot naptha could dissolve a full gram of freebase, seems like barely enough to get it soggy abaca?

[condo_pygmy]

The room temp up to 100f was for the straight base tek,
if doing the A/B tek then yes a hot water bath is the way to go...

to disolve the freebase you also need a hotwater bath.

[patshibby]

How can i see the pics?