Drano as a source of sodium hydroxide LYE

[hiimt0ny]

I found some of this drano kitchen crystals and it says that it contains sodium hydroxide but it doesnt list anyhting else. would this be okay to use in a mescaline extraction?

http://drano.com/clogged-kitchen-drain/default.aspx

[synth]

absolutely not.

every drano product that i've ever seen has lots more than NaOH in it.

get roebic brand crystal drain opener from lowe's or go to ace hardware -- many ace's have [nearly] pure lye products.
open the cap. if you see anything but white, crystalline solid inside, look elsewhere.

or get KOH.

KOH and NaOH are available online.

[Al kemmy]

ALthough one uses about 1.5x KOH than NaOH it has the unique abilty to resist emulsion. It also is readily available via a quick seach for soapmaking supplies or biodiesel supplies. One reliable otc source of 30% KOH solution is a hydro store for pH up. be sure it is a simple KOH solution some also use KCO3. Allowing the basified cactus a 4-6 day rest helps break down the cellular structures. and frees the FB from the plant material for much quicker and easier pulls once extraction has begun.
Alkemmy

[Doctor D]

Originally Posted by hiimt0ny

I found some of this drano kitchen crystals and it says that it contains sodium hydroxide but it doesnt list anyhting else. would this be okay to use in a mescaline extraction?

No way. The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Drano Kitchen Crystals lists the following four ingredients:

Sodium hydroxide
Aluminum
Sodium nitrate
Sodium chloride

Don't bother with the Zep crystals either, if you find them. I see a lot of Zep products; only one that is 100% sodium hydroxide is Zep Heavy Duty Drain Opener. It's always a good idea to check the MSDS for all the chemicals you use if you are unsure of their content.

[cheech]

good info bro! msds sheets are our friend.

[doobydoobydoo]

I have seen some at ACE hardware that says right on the bottle "100% Pure LYE". Didn't know I found something good till I read that and was like BINGO!

[quiksilver98]

I have been looking for a pure lye product for a while now. Im in BC Canada.....the closest ive gotten is the Drano chrystals. Does anyone know of any canadian stores that sell pure lye or even calcium Hydroxide


ps: I have d-limonene

[lysergic]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

I have been looking for a pure lye product for a while now. Im in BC Canada.....the closest ive gotten is the Drano chrystals. Does anyone know of any canadian stores that sell pure lye or even calcium Hydroxide


ps: I have d-limonene

Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
is used as a pH up for swimming pools
and can be used as a replacement for NaOH

edit: d-Limonene will work for your NP, but you'll end up with an oil rather than crystals.

Good Luck

[quiksilver98]

Thanks for the reply, I have the limonene for the other part of the procedure, im not using it as a replacement to lye or Calcium hydroxide. I will deftly try to get some KOH. Once I have he gooey DMT can I dissolve in naptha and then freeze to precipitate xtals?

you can check out the limonen tek at the DMT nexus, search it up on the ggogler.

[StheNC]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Thanks for the reply, I have the limonene for the other part of the procedure, im not using it as a replacement to lye or Calcium hydroxide. I will deftly try to get some KOH. Once I have he gooey DMT can I dissolve in naptha and then freeze to precipitate xtals?
you can check out the limonen tek at the DMT nexus, search it up on the ggogler.

if I read this right you plan to base your bark with potassium hydroxide, then pull your DMT using d-limonene as the non-polar solvent and then recrystalized using naphtha?

Swim hasn't read the dmt tek that uses potassium hydroxide as the base, but it is his understanding that as long as the ph of the basic aqueous solution is in the 11 to 13 range that should be sufficient to freebase the molecule. I am unsure if KOH will give you the ph you need, but I can't say for sure either way. I'm no expert.

If you have naphtha, then why do the NP pulls with the d limonene? Save yourself a step and pull with naphtha and you won't have the goo to worry about. I believe you will wind up with a much nice product from the word go, and recrystalization will be simpler if you choose to do it.

Hopefully someone else will chime in on the use of KOH with MHRB, as I've only seen it used in cactus work.

[SpiritMolecule]

Soap is manufactured on every continent...do a little research into soapmakers supply companies, and they will be glad to help you out.
I have one that I absolutely LOVE and their lye is 100%.period.
Cheaper, too. The Roebics brand has just been restocked by our fave hardware chain, but now costs thirteen dollars. Up almost seven dollars from the original retail price. Screw that. L**** can shove that right up thier asses.

Absolutely NEVER use drano. PLEASE. Two fundamental safety rules for any extraction are: try not to use drain shit. If you do, make ABSOLUTELY sure that it ONLY contains lye.
and second: Dont ever use 'fuel' as a non-polar solvent for extraction. Fuels contain dyes, rust inhibitors, and other solvents and synthetic things you DONT want. Only use pure solvents, such as Varnish Makers and Painters solvents.

[whatchamacallit]

KOH will work, but the point of the food safe is to use a weaker base so as not to get such a high pH which may damage other alkaloids in the cactus. By using sodium carbonate or calcium hydroxide to base the cacti mix, you will ensure a pH of 12, which will pull the full range of alkaloids from d-limonene. These can be salted out with various acids to yield the full alkaloid spectrum of the cacti you are extracting. Check out the extraction posted by kcmoxtractor, called the food safe mescaline extraction.

[SilvrHairDevil]

I found a few BC sources for lye...

http://www.sudsandscents.com/Merchan...ory_Code=SALTS

and

http://www.soap-making-essentials.co...rs.html#Canada


But, Googling "lye BC" brought this little nasty up. Seems they're trying to unite retailers into watching for large purchases of various chemicals.

http://crystalmethbc.ca/modules.php?name=CM_Methlabs

Be safe - spread out your shopping.

[director of sound]

drano or liquid plumber wont work, i did an experiment with 50/50 water and drano added some naptha and it all turned to stinky jello! i would not let that stuff come with in a mile of my extractions. i use ebay to get my lye. its real cheap too i ended up getting 10lbs for around $18 with shipping! the guy i got it from sells KOH too all for biodiesel and soapmaking. ill pm you his ebay store if you want.

[quiksilver98]

Thanks for the help! I am going to go to Home Depot to get some KOH, hopefully they have it! IF anyone knows of a tek using KOH and limoene/napthja please link it! Anyone know of good srouces of calcium hydroxide.

Ordering off the net is my LAST resort, its a little heaty

[Phineas_Carmichael]

http://forums.mycotopia.net/botanica...naoh-salt.html (Create NaOH from salt!)

Check it out, it might make your lives much easier!
-P

[whatchamacallit]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Thanks for the help! I am going to go to Home Depot to get some KOH, hopefully they have it! IF anyone knows of a tek using KOH and limoene/napthja please link it! Anyone know of good srouces of calcium hydroxide.

Ordering off the net is my LAST resort, its a little heaty

Calcium hydroxide is also known as hydrated lime or pickling lime. It shouldn't be hard to find, and as a last resort, check Kerr, as they make it for pickling.. You can easily find it online, if not locally.

[quiksilver98]

Thanks for all the help. Heres what I did, I did a A/B Extraction with Sodium Carbonate and now im at the freeze precip part. I got a chrystal at the bottom of my glass, like one big chunk, but as soon as i pured the naphtha into another glass and scraped the chrystal is melted/dissolved, could this be due to redual naphtha? It is completely white chrystal

[whatchamacallit]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Thanks for all the help. Heres what I did, I did a A/B Extraction with Sodium Carbonate and now im at the freeze precip part. I got a chrystal at the bottom of my glass, like one big chunk, but as soon as i pured the naphtha into another glass and scraped the chrystal is melted/dissolved, could this be due to redual naphtha? It is completely white chrystal

Residual naphtha on the crystals will redissolve them as it warms. Putting a fan with cool air blowing on them should dry em up and make them recrystallize..

[quiksilver98]

Thanks, further more do you think the big chrystalline looking thing could jsut be frozen residual fats?

SWIM had a hard time getting the napthta outta the jar with the main mmix (Polar) because when I shaked the jar as it described it would fom up and SWIM could never get rid of all the bubbles making the naphtha syphoning impossible. SWIM tried adding more naphtha and water/vinegar solution and managed to get about 50% of the naphtha out before getting frustrated with it (2-3 hours....)


SWIM tried to do another pull from the same bark today and could clearly smell the dmt in the acidic water but when it got to the napththa point and the shaking it bubbled as did the previous day and now SWIM jsut had the jars sitting beside the stove in hopes they will go away so he can finish the process. I think the yield on this one big because yesterday he didnt have any smell of dmt, today the kitchen reeked of it.

[StheNC]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Thanks, further more do you think the big chrystalline looking thing could jsut be frozen residual fats?
SWIM had a hard time getting the napthta outta the jar with the main mmix (Polar) because when I shaked the jar as it described it would fom up and SWIM could never get rid of all the bubbles making the naphtha syphoning impossible. SWIM tried adding more naphtha and water/vinegar solution and managed to get about 50% of the naphtha out before getting frustrated with it (2-3 hours....)
SWIM tried to do another pull from the same bark today and could clearly smell the dmt in the acidic water but when it got to the napththa point and the shaking it bubbled as did the previous day and now SWIM jsut had the jars sitting beside the stove in hopes they will go away so he can finish the process. I think the yield on this one big because yesterday he didnt have any smell of dmt, today the kitchen reeked of it.

Vinegar to break emulsions? Are you doing an a/b? An STB? Defatting? Pulling spice? It doesn't sound like you really had a handle on the process before you started. Vinegar is acidic, and if you are trying to capture spice in your solvent, your aqueous solution needs to be basic. I can't tell what the hell you're doing from your posts.

[quiksilver98]

SWIM is doing as A/B tek. Please let me know what you think because SWIM knows there is a lot of spice in this pull because SWIM smelt it strong even when I was cooking it. Its basified with Sodium Carbonate and SWIM is now at the point of removing the non-polar naphtha from the top but there are too many bubbles to do this, its really frustrating.

Whe SWIM gets home from work he will typ his whole tek process out. He saved the root bark from the tek he did yesterday and re-used it today andd this is the tek i am talking about. Its Lexteks AB extraction. SWIM is at initial shellite extraction. You can read this tek at DMT-nexus.com

[quiksilver98]

Here is everything SWIM did.

He simmered the bark water-vinegar solution for 3 hours then he filtered it throught a coffee filter. He then added Sodium Carbonate (45g for 250ml solution) it made a lot bubbles but it subsided very quickly. He then added 7.5ml of Naptha, closed the jar and shaked. Alot of bubbles (emulsions) formed and this is where he is at. He tried adding a shit ton of salt but that just created its own emulsion.

As a ditch effort he siphoned some of the solution below the emulsion out into a speerate cup and treated that with naptha and is thinking about doing this to save the spice but he doesnt know what will happen with the original naptha that is trapped in the emulsions.

[StheNC]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Here is everything SWIM did.
He simmered the bark water-vinegar solution for 3 hours then he filtered it throught a coffee filter. He then added Sodium Carbonate (45g for 250ml solution) it made a lot bubbles but it subsided very quickly. He then added 7.5ml of Naptha, closed the jar and shaked. Alot of bubbles (emulsions) formed and this is where he is at. He tried adding a shit ton of salt but that just created its own emulsion.
As a ditch effort he siphoned some of the solution below the emulsion out into a speerate cup and treated that with naptha and is thinking about doing this to save the spice but he doesnt know what will happen with the original naptha that is trapped in the emulsions.

In a prior post you said you added vinegar after the naphtha?

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Thanks, further more do you think the big chrystalline looking thing could jsut be frozen residual fats?
SWIM had a hard time getting the napthta outta the jar with the main mmix (Polar) because when I shaked the jar as it described it would fom up and SWIM could never get rid of all the bubbles making the naphtha syphoning impossible. SWIM tried adding more naphtha and water/vinegar solution and managed to get about 50% of the naphtha out before getting frustrated with it (2-3 hours....)
SWIM tried to do another pull from the same bark today and could clearly smell the dmt in the acidic water but when it got to the napththa point and the shaking it bubbled as did the previous day and now SWIM jsut had the jars sitting beside the stove in hopes they will go away so he can finish the process. I think the yield on this one big because yesterday he didnt have any smell of dmt, today the kitchen reeked of it.

This is the part I do not understand. You make no mention of a defat in your last post, so I can't see why you would add an acid after adding the base. I think your Ph may not have been high enough due to not using NaOH. Sodium carbonate is a much milder base.

[SpiritMolecule]

Youre having emulsion problems. Use lye if you can....sodium carbonate wouldnt be a great thing to basify with. You got a PH meter? Handy lil gadget to have when doing these things. Before doing naptha pulls, you wanna make sure your basified solution is between 10-13ph. If after adding naptha, you get that cloudy pink/brown/orange/purple layer of foam and it doesnt seem to wanna separate, spoon a little bit of lye in there while stirring slowly over a hot water bath. And when adding NP pulls, dont shake the container, just tilt back and forth to mix without agitating it too much. Think of it as kinda like a pop.

[quiksilver98]

SWIm did 2 extractions, on the first one he had the same problem but managed to semi-sort it out and freezed it and he sees a chrystaline solid at the bottom but it quickly melts and is clearly seperate form the NP.

As for the second extractions problems, the emulsions, he doesnt have access to lye and sodium carbonate is a good enough base for it as it bring the ph to 12-13~ . He is going to try and get a ph meter but where he lives all the stores seem to be lame. If he were to add more base does the mixture have to be hot? should he add more non-polar NP? he is very worried about this batch because this second batch actually reeked of spice!

[SpiritMolecule]

This is why we love the internet. you can buy and sell things pretty quickly and have them shipped right to your door. If you need a good source for good lye, let me know. Also, I have a nice source for decent 20 dollar PH meters

[quiksilver98]

yeah for sure..... but there is there anyway to fix SIms current problem(s)?

I did some reading and there is a guy who uses sodium Carbonate in his A/B and gets the same yields as when he used lye soo I might jsut stick to the sodium carbonate because its easy to get, but Swim will probably try lye in the near future.

[SpiritMolecule]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

yeah for sure..... but there is there anyway to fix SIms current problem(s)?

Im guessing here, that your problem is the thick emulsion layer that keeps you from separating your naptha from the base solution, right? If that is the case, simply add more of your base(I use lye), alittle at a time, while stirring slowly. Do this while your vessel containing the base solution is heated in a hot water bath...

[quiksilver98]

Originally Posted by SpiritMolecule

Im guessing here, that your problem is the thick emulsion layer that keeps you from separating your naptha from the base solution, right? If that is the case, simply add more of your base(I use lye), alittle at a time, while stirring slowly. Do this while your vessel containing the base solution is heated in a hot water bath...

DONE and WORSE.....SWIM more of a emulsion now and soo is trying to filter it out of a coffee filter into another jar. Like I said he really wants to save this batch. Keep in mind he has added a lot of salt too from previous insructions..

[whatchamacallit]

Okay, first of all, without using lye, those emulsions will take forever to settle, and your yields will drop. Adding excess lye breaks emulsions and helps free DMT from the bark.

Also, if you are trying to use 7.5 mls of naphtha, I don't see how the heck you could even see any separation. Depending on the width of the container, of course, even a 100 mls isn't all that thick of a layer in a quart jar.

After you freeze your naphtha, and the DMT falls out of the solution, it won't all stick to the bottom, and as soon as it's pulled out of the freezer, the temperature begins to rise and redissolve any DMT. It must be poured off quickly and left to dry in front of a fan or it will redissolve.

Some like to filter the naphtha with a coffee filter, but if that coffee filter has naphtha run through it, then as it warms the DMT will begin to redissolve into the filter and will be trapped in the filter fibers.. It should be poured onto a plate or baking dish so that a fan may evaporate the rest of the naphtha, and the crystals can easily be scraped up.

[quiksilver98]

At this point sraining through coffee filter seems to be doing the trick. I have about 300ml of solution. Hopefully I can then add more naptha and then away we go.

As for the freeze precip, I think what im seeing is fat at the bottom fo the cup from an impure defatting stage? How long should it freeze for?

[whatchamacallit]

SWIM has never seen fat precipitate from naphtha, unless it was within the crystals of DMT... SWIM also says that defatting MHRB doesn't pull out much of anything, so it's highly doubtful that it would have made much difference.. Freezing for 24-72 hours is plenty, and SWIM often sees his fully precipitated at around 12-18 hours, but it might depend on how cold your freezer gets..

[quiksilver98]

Should SWIM then skip the defatting stage?

[StheNC]

I'd like to call attention to this statement that you made.
I think it is where much of you problem lie.

SWIM had a hard time getting the napthta outta the jar with the main mmix (Polar) because when I shaked the jar as it described it would fom up and SWIM could never get rid of all the bubbles making the naphtha syphoning impossible. SWIM tried adding more naphtha and water/vinegar solution and managed to get about 50% of the naphtha out before getting frustrated with it (2-3 hours....)

I've tried to address this with you but you don't seem to want to aknowledge it or provide any clues as to why you tried to break an emulsion with vineagar.

As whatcha said, 7.5ml of naphtha is no where near a sufficent quantity unless your doing an extraction on ten grams of bark and only plan to extract one dose. Using sodium carbonate because "some guy did it" is obviously not working for you either. How many teks recommend sodium carbonate? How many recommend lye? If sodium carbonate was sufficient then everyone would use it because it won't give you a chemical burn, dosent get hot enough to crack a mason jar, and won't dissolve your eyeballs.

If you followed a tek to the T with good bark then you'll have dmt. If what your doing isn't working either the tek sucks or you deviated from the proven process. Follow the most often recommended and consistently proven methods precisely or you will not succeed. If you want to experiment with the process don't be surprised when the results are less then ideal.

[quiksilver98]

Originally Posted by StheNC

I'd like to call attention to this statement that you made.
I think it is where much of you problem lie.



I've tried to address this with you but you don't seem to want to aknowledge it or provide any clues as to why you tried to break an emulsion with vineagar.

As whatcha said, 7.5ml of naphtha is no where near a sufficent quantity unless your doing an extraction on ten grams of bark and only plan to extract one dose. Using sodium carbonate because "some guy did it" is obviously not working for you either. How many teks recommend sodium carbonate? How many recommend lye? If sodium carbonate was sufficient then everyone would use it because it won't give you a chemical burn, dosent get hot enough to crack a mason jar, and won't dissolve your eyeballs.

If you followed a tek to the T with good bark then you'll have dmt. If what your doing isn't working either the tek sucks or you deviated from the proven process. Follow the most often recommended and consistently proven methods precisely or you will not succeed. If you want to experiment with the process don't be surprised when the results are less then ideal.

First of all, SWIM assumed that by adding more vinegar-water solution that it would dilute the mixture allowing the emulsions to dissolve. As for lye and sodium carbonate, I would have to order lye online because I cant find it here in BC. Swim assumes that sodium Carbonate is a good enough base becuase it provides a ph of 12-13~ . Everything went according the plan until I read on Lextek Tek's that you must shake the jar after you put naphtha in it. SWIM did so and thats when the emulsions formed.

[SpiritMolecule]

stop shaking. Tilt. Shaking is gonna make anything foam, especiall a nonpolar solvent in the same container as a basic solution. If you can order lye online, why not do it? I do, and I love my lye source. Ive got great chemical sources if ur interested....

[whatchamacallit]

SWIM doubts that emulsion will ever fully settle without some lye. The yield will be decreased, too. If you'd like to use a weaker base, you should use a different tek. There is one using d-limonene, and a weaker base, and you could do that, but with what you have done, your best way to save it, is to get the lye, add enough, and the emulsions will settle in less than 20 minutes, and it won't matter if you shake it or not.. You can save it and get it all out, if you do just that. You could also easily do more naphtha pulls, and get even more if you just add enough lye. Good luck!

[quiksilver98]

Well SWIM filter the solution into another jar througha coffee filter and that has worked like a charm. Is defatting necessary with MHRB?

Should SWIm's naphtha be clear even after being pulled?? Its not tinted in the slightest.....

Spirit please let me know of your sources

I cant get pure limonene either unless its form the net.... ahaha

[whatchamacallit]

In an acid/base extraction the solvent often pulls much less color. Also, using no heat to speed separation can help pull out less color, too. Your yields will probably be low, unless you use lye. Something about the magic number of pH 13.5 seems to make everything happen quick and easy with proper yields, and SWIM doesn't think sodium carbonate will do that..

[quiksilver98]

SWIM should try it and let me know.

Is defatting necessary for MHRB? SWIM has now saved the solution fromt heemulsion and is now succesfully dong the naphtha pulls and the next step is either freezing or defatting first, he used MHRB.

[Mr. Kush]

necessary - NO
helps alittle - Yes
doesnt matter your to late...
get some lye.

[whatchamacallit]

No, defatting isn't necessary. But if you have made your solution basic, then added naphtha, and shook it, and separated it, it is way too late to defat it.

One defats before adding a base, as once the base is added the DMT turns from it's salt form (probably DMT tannate and/or acetate if you added vinegar to the water to soak it) in the acidic solution, to it's freebase form, which is then soluble in the non-polar solvent. That is how you extract it.

What you did was added an acidic solution to your bark and soaked it, and squeezed out the juice, several times and collected it all (should contain most of the DMT as it's acidic salt form). Then you either reduced it by boiling some away, or could have done your defat, or both. You would have mixed naphtha, xylene, or toluene with your acidic water MHRB solution. Then you would shake it and separate it, and repeat 2 more times. This in theory would remove whatever is in the acidic solution that is soluble in the solvent, before making it basic, to make it cleaner before proceeding. However, you can try it next time, then evaporate your defat solvent, and you tell me if it's worth it..

Then you attempted to add sodium carbonate to make the solution basic. This probably only got your pH to around 12, which is enough to ionize the DMT but doesn't seem to be enough to break stubborn emulsions or help the freebase be freed from the bark particles as easy as with lye (sodium hydroxide, aka NaOH, or even KOH), which will easily bring your pH up to 13.5. You also apparently added vinegar, further lowering your pH, rather than raising it as you want to do.

pH 13.5 will be sure to convert all the DMT to it's freebase form and keep those emulsions from forming. This can then be separated as soon as it's totally separated and there is no emulsion layer. With enough base, and even a bit of heat (hot water bath), this can happen in as little as 5-30 minutes.

This solvent can then be separated from the basic water solution, and will contain much of the DMT. Doing a few more pulls with more naphtha can pull out the rest of the DMT.

This solvent is now ready to either polar wash, then dry (covered in the tek I posted), or if you separated it well enough and would like to skip extra cleaning procedures it can be freeze precipitated or it can be evaporated.

If freezing, the DMT will crash out of the solution in several hours, depending on how cold your freezer is. If you evaporate it in front of a fan, do not use heat at all, as it will not allow your DMT to crystallize properly. Just a fan blowing over it to give it a nice ripple would evaporate it fairly quickly, and surface area obviously plays a role in this, too. Freeze precipitation will come out cleaner, though, and won't stink up your house.

Now I hope this is enough info to help you understand what it is that you are doing exactly, and check out the STB tek I posted here, to see step by step photos of probably the easiest way to extract MHRB.

Best of luck!

[StheNC]

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

First of all, SWIM assumed that by adding more vinegar-water solution that it would dilute the mixture allowing the emulsions to dissolve. As for lye and sodium carbonate, I would have to order lye online because I cant find it here in BC. Swim assumes that sodium Carbonate is a good enough base becuase it provides a ph of 12-13~ .

You can't defend your action by saying that you assumed it was the right thing to do. You just stated that you made two assumtions that have had a critical impact on your extraction. IS this your first extraction? I thought so. Stop making assumptions. Follow proven methods for success.

Why would you assume that vinegar would break the emulsion? Vinegar is an acid that will lower the pH and form the acetic salt of DMT making it soluble in water, a polar solvent, not naphtha, a non-polar solvent thus it is a really shitty idea to add vinegar if you're trying to get your DMT to migrate into the naphtha.

How do you know that your aqueous solution was at a ph of 12-13? DO you have litmus? A meter? Read this:
PHYSICAL STATE White powder or granules
MELTING POINT 851 C (Decomposes)
SPECIFIC GRAVITY 2.53
SOLUBILITY IN WATER 45.5 g/100 ml
pH 11.6 Aqueous solution

Here is my source for the information:
http://chemicalland21.com/industrial...0CARBONATE.htm

11.6 is not exactly 12-13. Each level of pH is a magnitude of ten times greater than the one before it, so 12-13 is a GREAT DEAL stronger than 11.6. Also, unless you had a meter or litmus you have no way of knowing whether or not you even added enough to reach 11.6 and litmus won't exactly give you the most perfectly accurate results especially when working with such a dark fluid. Even if you reach maximum saturation in water with sodium carbonate, MHRB being slightly acidic in it's natural state you may not even be able to reach 11.6 pH much less 12-13. Possibly someone with a college education can back me up on this.

Now that we have covered your two assumptions, lets move on to:

Originally Posted by quiksilver98

Everything went according the plan until I read on Lextek Tek's that you must shake the jar after you put naphtha in it. SWIM did so and thats when the emulsions formed.

If you hadn't read the TEK yet than where the hell did you get the plan? And if you started with a different tek then why did you switch to a different tek mid-extraction? Did you bother to find out whether or not many others have had success with the tek you used? Did you pick a tek that is suported by many testimonials of positive results? Did you follow one tek, develop a full understanding of every step before you began, and follow every step exactly as the tek laid it out?

Or did you just wing it and assume that you'd make a big pile of pure DMT without any trouble?

Come on man. The info is out there and people are trying to help you.

[SpiritMolecule]

Man, my first extraction was a DISASTER. This was like four years ago before whatchas tek, hell STB extractions werent even very popular when I first got into it. I used the old Quantum Tantra tek (LAWL) and got but a little tiny shred of crystal in the middle of a big gooey yellow pool. I had no idea what I was doing, or how it worked....My second is where I got it. It was good 'ol Marsofolds tek and by talkin to the good folks here at the 'topia, I figured out how it works. After that my yeilds have consistently been big ol piles of translucent evap crystal and pure white freeze precip powder....
Good times....
My advice is to read a little document that I found at the Nexus a couple years ago, its called The DMT Handbook. It explains everything real simple and easy to understand, and if you follow it to the T, you get decent results. In it, they use Acacia bark, but it can be substituted for MHRB, and in fact, they say that in the book.

[quiksilver98]

SWIM manmaged to find lye at home hardware!

soo SWIM is now going to add it to the batch and heat it up in a hot sink of water and thjen do some np pulls??? any recommendations?

[SpiritMolecule]

Do this:

Slowly add the lye to the water, stirring to dissolve. You want to dissolve the lye without dissolving too much at once, or the result will be an exothermic reaction that boils and bubbles everywhere and is hot and caustic...so just add it slowly until you start noticing that the water wont hold any more and the lye starts just falling to the bottom.
Now wait a few minutes for the lye to wind down its reaction, and add the bark powder to your base solution. Swirl it around to mix it in good, and then let it sit for a minute.
Meanwhile, boil some water in a stock pot and turn off the stove (helps to have a double boiler) and bathe the jar or flask containing your naptha pull, and wait till its nice and hot. At this point, add the naptha to your bark/base solution and close the lid. Tilt the container back and forth (slowly opening the lid to release pressure) for a minute or two, and set it down and allow the layers to separate. Remove the Naptha layer and thats your first pull.

[quiksilver98]

Thanks Spirit. But sWIM is only starting a new batch tomorrow, he wants to revive his current batch. He added lye to the above solution and heeated it up in a double boiler style pot setup with the jar inside instead of the kitchen sink method. He then started his naphtha pulls, he waited about 5-10 minutes stirring vigourasly during and now he is freeze precipping. He still has other left over solution that hasnt been pulled yet because its too late for today. He has about 3 jars of solution because he kept adding acidic water to fix the said emulsions but all seems to be going wel now, the lye heats the solution up moderatly.

[quiksilver98]

-BUMP_

[quiksilver98]

SWIM has had much success with his next extractionw ith 50g bark and lye......but he has done about 8 np pulls using about 20ml each time and it is still coming out tinted yellow, does this mean there is still DMt in the mix???
SWIM says switching to LYe was the best move this week!