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Grow Chambers & Clean Rooms [terrariums] Terrariums, Greenhouses, Rubbermaids, monotubs, dub tubs, etc.


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  • Go Back   Mycotopia Web Forums > Deep Knowledge > The new Vaults > Grow Chambers & Clean Rooms [terrariums]

     
     
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    Old 02-04-08, 01:45   #1 (permalink)
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    Floppy Peter Bulk Substrate Tek

    For floppypeters bulk sub tek you will need to start with a large tub for mixing. floppypeter suggests using a 41qt/39lt. sterlite container. The container measures 34 1/2 x 16 1/2 x 6. The container was lightly sandpapered on the outside and spray painted black underneath and 3/4 up the sides leaving room fpr light ot get in the last third. These containers are available at any and all dept stores for about 7 bucks.


    One brick of coir is put in the tub and 1.33 gallons of 170-boiling degree water is added.


    while the coir is expanding it takes about a half hour, I toss in my additives now. IMO they are not neccesary. Im not sure they make a good gdamn bit o difference but I add them anyway.

    they are shamelessly appropriated from hippiew supercake thread

    1 teaspoon of nutritional yeast,
    1 tablespoon bee pollen,
    1 tablespoon flax seed
    1 tablespoon shredded coconut meat/flour
    1 tablespoon blue corn meal
    1 tablespoon coarse yellow corn meal
    1 tablespoon of powdered/ground kelp meal
    1 tablespoon of cottonseed meal

    As a nod to TV Casualty I also add Quinoa flour to each sub



    now with rubber gloves and dust mask break up the coir so that all pieces are nice and moist get your hands in there and mix it all around add air to the mix.


    now put in a ziplock bag full of med grade verm. I don't pasteurize the verm.


    Mix in a one gallon bag of pasteurized poo. I use dehydrated composed poo.

    IMO the way I pasteurize is the best, y'all else suck donkey balls, there I said it (fp flings birds all around ) LOL JK, but seriously my ways the best

    I pasteurize it right in the bag, sealed. I make sure the bag is 7/9 full of fluffy poo then I fold over the opening of the bag, partially close the ziploc seal, and force all the air out of the bag pressing it between my hands and a hard surface. This will drive all the air out of the bag. At this point, with pressure still on the bag, seal the bag making it air tight. When you PC it it wont burst due to heat expansion because you were smart and account for the heat expansion prior to pasteurization by pushing enough air out and leaving room for expansion.

    IMO this method stops all that wet poo mess that gets all over with traditional wet sub pasteurization. Since only one container is used theres no mess from transferring and who wants poo in their bathtub right ?


    so submerge the gallon ziploc in your pressure cooker at 150-170 degree water. I can fit four gallon bags of poo at once in the PC I fridge the ones that dont get use. Use the PC top to keep the bags submerged.

    Mix the whole thing together and test the water consistency, I usually hydrate well beyond "field capacity without a problem. Its up to u.

    If you need to add a little water do that now or add some vem to adjust the water content to your liking. I use tap water.



    Mix in 4 or 5 quarts of spawn. In this case 5 quarts of WBS spawn were used. The WBS was crumbled into tiny individual kernels and mixed in with the sub for maximum speed of colonization and consistent pin set.


    Level it out cover it up with the top the container came with. Breath it out twice a day and wipe the condensation from the top of the container. This is important to leep the watrer and oxygen moving along the surface of the substrate. Air holes arnt necessary ime.


    Once it pins, take a twin container that has not been spray painted and place it on top of the fruiting casing. This will act as a terrarium and basically all you need to do is pick fruit.



    when you see the first pin case with 70 30 verm/coir


    I like this tek because the tub you mix in is the tub you grow in. Your not transferring from different containers etc. It keeps the mess way down, contams etc.

    It's good for all your dung loving mushrooms, for wood lovers add 1 gallon bag of sawdust. As you can see, the loolk alike cubes in the pics above love this shit. Success IMO is based on high spawn/sub ratio. FAE is overrated imo as these projects go days without FAE and still have great results. The strain above is PESA with the "magic" genetically bred out of it. Ihate to brake the law and dont want to offend any body with this hobby.so I figured Id use harmless lookalikes for example.

    my
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    Old 02-04-08, 10:06   #2 (permalink)
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    Nice floppy, hey what strain is that? i add quinoa to my grain. tis good stuff. usually only at the end it soaks up water very easily.
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    Old 02-04-08, 11:44   #3 (permalink)
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    Old 02-04-08, 12:28   #4 (permalink)
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    Strain is pesa thanks for lookin !!!
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    Old 02-04-08, 12:38   #5 (permalink)
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    heres the newest pinset using this tek.

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    Old 02-04-08, 12:49   #6 (permalink)
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    About 6 or so hours later, imo this pinset is due to genetics, and secondly at least a 25% spawn to sub ratio. No special fae except fresh air once or twice a day by opening the lid. I never get trich and I am a dirty-ass mother fucker just ask my wife. TO give you an Idea triming of my beard is monthly at best and if I hav eto shower more than once every two days I feel like a pansy.

    this whole project cost very little

    2x sterilite tubs ~ $ 20
    1 brick coir ~ $ 2.33
    1 Gal. bag vrm ~ $ 3
    1 Gal. bag poo ~ $ 1
    5 quart jars ~ $ (free i use old prego and delmonte glass jars)
    various addtivs ~ $ 3
    5 quarts WBS ~ .77
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    TOTAL $ 30.10

    Re use the containers -$ 20

    Net cost for the tray $ 10.10

    Now if I use some of the materials again like the sterlite containers my cost defers to $10.10 per casing. That's very cheap. I dont feel bad throwing out these poison mushies into the compost pile at these prices. They sure are fun to grow. Im sure that compost will produce some more powerful mushies the more I add to the pile. I must confess that I like to eat one or two of the largest fresh ones form time to time. If I wante to be super cheap I could easily get some horse poo and straw and my only cost would be the WBS. Any body know of a good free spawn material like rye or WBS ?

    I't make me happy to do this at no cost just like the earth

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    Old 02-04-08, 13:57   #7 (permalink)
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    WOW, looking good bro.
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    Old 02-04-08, 14:06   #8 (permalink)
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    Nice tek ..Thanks for explaining the steps also.
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    Old 02-04-08, 14:14   #9 (permalink)
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    forgot to mention that pastuerisation time is 4-6 hours for 4 sealed ziploc bags of poo at around150-170 degrees.

    Thank you very much for your kind words.

    And if you actually read it instead of skimming thanks again.

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    Old 02-04-08, 16:03   #10 (permalink)
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    niiice! awesome pin set. Thats going to be a good one. nice write up!

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    Old 02-05-08, 08:18   #11 (permalink)
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    Help me harvest

    Should I let em get mature or pull em before the viel tears ?

    What do you think n' why ?
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    Old 02-05-08, 14:42   #12 (permalink)
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    12 hours later

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    Old 02-05-08, 16:04   #13 (permalink)
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    damn dude. personally, I would wait until I see spores start developing on the most mature ones before I consider what to do as far as picking.. when about 80 % of the bin is past or close to the veil breaking "stage" I pick the entire thing.. you could pick as you go, but I can already see that's going to be a bitch with all those amazing clusters. nice job! is that the first time you used the grain (psuedo) isolation? did you do the "one drop" dealio?

    p.s.- if you take another pic, could you toss a bic or something familiar in thur.. I'm pretty horrible at judging size

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    Old 02-05-08, 20:57   #14 (permalink)
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    time for the picker




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    Old 02-05-08, 21:05   #15 (permalink)
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    wow. beautimus! well done good sir.

    edit: I was wondering if you think the reason that you don't need any holes was because of the small gap all around the containers where the two meet? you don't have a fan or anything, correct? interesting.. when I did a half double tub like that, my sub dried out and I think that was the reason.. I had a fan in my room and maybe that was overkill.. would be nice to know that it can be done, but without a fan running.. would make sense I guess. lol

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    Old 02-06-08, 08:33   #16 (permalink)
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    Fhaster,

    they incubate with a blue colored top that came with the sterlite tote. I don't put the other unpainted "terrarium"tote on top until its started to knot up.

    Incubating in these with the original tops allows them to be stacked on one another and put out of the way. I don't use a fan. The tote should be opened twice a day and have the condensation wiped off the lids.

    When knots occur the clear terrarium top is put on. When the first pin is noticed. It's lightly cased with 70/30 coir/verm. I sprinkle it on and fill in the gaps using zero pressure from my fingertips. When casing late, it should be applied delicately imho; don't want to hurt the baby shrooms.

    I agree with you about the imperfect fit. IMO FAE, is from the imperfect seal between the tub and cover & later between the two tubs.it would follow, the air would move a little bit due to the slightly hotter than ambient air substrate and the movement of the water to the lid in trasperation.
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    Old 02-06-08, 08:50   #17 (permalink)
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    so are you saying that you want to leave that gap for FAE? i bought some door seal weatherstripping stuff and had planned on putting that between the two pieces of the terrarium
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    Old 02-06-08, 08:56   #18 (permalink)
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    I leave the gap. it works for me
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    Old 02-06-08, 10:16   #19 (permalink)
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    well those additives sure didn't hurt eh.
    well done, nice flush.
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    Old 02-06-08, 12:05   #20 (permalink)
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    i concur
    anxious to see flush II !
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    Old 02-06-08, 13:15   #21 (permalink)
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    Thanks for your kind words
    Know there are some happily stoned worms in my compost heap tonight.

    Whomever read this

    its you that made this project

    not trying to get too meta-physical here:

    We are the I ,it's an illusion we are separate

    I don't feel FloppyPeter had this nice success. I Feel topia' + others were the reason it happened. My ego feels almost like a spectator.


    FHAT- I used your one drop iso method from a super dark homemade syringe. I put one drop in the middle of about 2 inches of sterile wbs at the bottom of a half pint using a polyfill lid with tyvek. It took a while for anything to happen but when it it it was super Rhizo, furry and fast as hell, I've ran the same iso for about 9 or 10 G2G generations with no sign of slow down. Lucky genetics I guess?
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    Old 02-06-08, 17:24   #22 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    FHAT- I used your one drop ISO method from a super dark homemade syringe. I put one drop in the middle of about 2 inches of sterile WBS at the bottom of a half pint using a polyfill lid with tyvek . It took a while for anything to happen but when it it it was super Rhizo, furry and fast as hell, I've ran the same ISO for about 9 or 10 g2g generations with no sign of slow down. Lucky genetics I guess?
    heh.. I've gotten pretty lucky in that department myself.. The PE's I have are from a smidgen of myc from a PF cake that didn't even knot up before I took the sample.. sometimes you just get lucky glad my work has helped ya in so many ways. it's inspiring to do more work. lol keep it up!

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    Old 02-06-08, 18:34   #23 (permalink)
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    beautiful. i love science.
    do you think popcorn would lend itself well to this tek?
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    Old 02-06-08, 20:09   #24 (permalink)
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    popcorn would prollly work just fine
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    Old 02-18-08, 19:58   #25 (permalink)
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    2/19 updatre

    It's really important that u use at least a 25 to 30 percent spawn ratio for success, IMO if the mych is moving faster twoard 100% colonization there is more air movement water and energy exchange, this fast paced growth keeps trich at bayimo. Use of less spawn slows the processs air movement etc. If I had to use less apwn Id make sure I had more FAE than stated above
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    Old 02-18-08, 20:41   #26 (permalink)
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    WOW can't believe i missed this.

    That tub looks sick (in a good way)

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    Old 02-19-08, 11:36   #27 (permalink)
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    Quote:
    this whole project cost very little

    2x sterilite tubs ~ $ 20
    1 brick coir ~ $ 2.33
    1 Gal. bag vrm ~ $ 3
    1 Gal. bag poo ~ $ 1
    5 quart jars ~ $ (free i use old prego and delmonte glass jars)
    various addtivs ~ $ 3
    5 quarts WBS ~ .77
    Print from topia member ~ free
    Topia Archives ~ priceless�
    How do you rig up the lids on the prego jars? I've thought about
    using jars like that before but was afraid the lid wouldn't have a
    good enough seal. Do you happen to have any pictures of them?

    I assume these are just reg mason jars right?

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    Old 02-19-08, 13:37   #28 (permalink)
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    res

    its very simple

    just punch a hole in the top of the lid with a knife or a screwdriver and fill the hole with poly fill. screw the lid on tight and cover with foil for pc. I innoc right through the polyfill or do g2g in a glove box. I dont use tyvek for the fruit or spaghetti jars. dont forget to loosen your jar tops before you put them in the glove box. I cant tell you how many times ive had to open the box mid procedure cause one of the lids were on to tight to open inside the glovebox lol

    sorry i dont
    have a photo my cam shit the bed.

    the lid has a great seal on spaghetti and fruit jars. They have to because they are shipped nationwide in warm containers. If they weren't cabable of an air tight seal all that shit would go bad at the grocery store.
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    Old 02-19-08, 13:41   #29 (permalink)
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    recently, I tried this recipe with 3 quarts of wbs

    both projects failed miserably

    imo you need at min of 4 quarts spawn, 5 or six will insure success imo
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    Old 02-19-08, 16:47   #30 (permalink)
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    super nice! and cheap too,lol.
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    Old 03-01-08, 16:31   #31 (permalink)
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