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| | #1 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Without the knowledge gained from here This would not be possible Waylitjim has been a hero of mine for some time. Thank you very much for posting your knowledge and ideas as they have been an enormous influence on my experiments. ![]() Thanks also to Buckaroo Bonzai whose knowledge allowed me to learn agar and defeat contaminants prior to spawning. ![]() And last, but not least, I would like to thank those generous individuals from whom the spores came. You know who you are...... ![]() Here are my efforts at P. Azurescens Two pictures of wood substrates I've been tinkering with. Here's P. Ovoideocystidiata ![]() And from Australia: P. Subaeruginosa ![]() I suppose you could chalk it up to syncronicity But I had planned to do the exact same thing as Waylitjim in an attempt to fruit them indoors prior to transplanting them to their intended home. I'm hoping some lucky fellow will find these while walking in the woods someday |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| A Mirror Image Join Date: Sep 1972
Posts: 4,232
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There's always room for another woodlover 08 thread! Best of luck this fall
__________________ Waylit's Exotic Roundup - a collection of sexy threads |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | I collect hardwoods and experiment with them. With any woodloving species you can't go wrong with Gambel's Oak Red Oak Russian Olive Cottonwood Alder and I'm getting ready to test Mesquite Those bags are a mix of Gambel's oak shavings Russian Olive shavings Alder chips and chunks I start with a colonized bag of shavings only Then split that over 3 bags of shavings/ chunks Very fast way to build spawn |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Update and new discoveries.
In experimenting with various hardwoods and substrate textures I've made some progress. Substrates with a coarse texture colonized more rapidly than bags of shavings. ![]() The first bag is shavings, then shavings and chips, and finally natural chips. Note the dates on the bags relative to the amount of growth in each bag. Substrates spawned with supplemented grain spawn are faster and more robust than those spawned with grain prepared in the usual manner. The last bags demonstrate the added benefit of using grain spawn supplemented with b-complex. In building my tubs, I pasteurized natural woodchips for at least 4 hours at 140*F. The idea is to stimilate the growth of actinomycetes in the woodchips. My hope is to have a microbially active colony - replicating, as closely as possible, conditions which occur in nature. I left a couple of inches free at the top of each container. I'm considering making some custom potting soil with compost, vermiculite and perlite as a casing layer. Then plant annual rye grass on top. I'll post my findings at a later date. Last edited by Myc; 12-15-08 at 19:39. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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It's a matter of seasonal timing and having a solarium which isn't heated. I close it off in the winter and the temps. can dip down to 32*F in there. A small heater will allow me to regulate the low temperature. The room gets sunshine and warms up during the day. Open windows for plenty of fresh air. Blinds to regulate sunlight. I plan to place them in a greenhouse type setup where I can control humidity. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Progress Pics
Here are the tubs after 14 days colonization. P. Azurescens ![]() P. Ovoideaocystidiata ![]() P. Subaeruginosa ![]() The Ovoids appear to be very aggressive colonizers. Rampant! Subaeruginosa is a very slow colonizer. The tub in the photo was spawned with two colonized blocks rather than just one. Small spots of Trichoderma have appeared but were easily overcome by the growing woodlover mycelium. I simply ingnored them and let the cultures take care of themselves. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Project Update
I've been waiting patiently for this day for some time now ![]() First good snow of the year. Time to case and dunk the tubs. For my experiments I'll case two tubs. One P. ovoid. and one P. azure. Cased with an even mix of pasteurized compost (stored frozen), cactus mix potting soil, and vermiculite. ![]() Two tubs are being left uncased. Both are P. ovoid. ![]() They will be left to allow a layer of snow to accumulate for several hours and removed to a greenhouse setup in a cold room later. ![]() Here's hoping for a win! |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Now that's what I call a cold water dunk! ![]() Mother Nature has been good to us over the past few hours! Over the course of the day, the snow should melt and flood the tubs. I'll allow them to dunk for 72 hrs (a benchmark used with other woodlover projects) any more snow will be welcomed and I'll let them sit out until the weather warms here again. At that time I'll set 'em up with a cozy, cool, humid greenhouse and wait to see what happens. |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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I brought the tubs inside in order to get them to flood. The snow was being lost to sublimation rather than melting. Once inside, they flooded just fine. I spent the day sanitizing the greenhouse and allowing the tubs to drain. The mycelial mats are tenaciously stuck together and stayed in the tubs just fine while inverted without trying to become dislodged. ![]() Once drained, I fixed the casing layer with a mix of vermiculite, compost and cactus mix potting soil. ![]() Two of the tubs were planted with annual rye grass seed just to see what happens. Temp is at 50*F with RH @ 99% I put some Shiitake in the greenhouse with them so they'll know what they're supposed to do. ![]() ![]() I've been waiting very patiently for this time of year. I'm very interested to see if I can actually get these gems to fruit indoors. This is the result of many, many months of care and nurturing fungal species which don't naturally occur in my location. These tubs will eventually become seed colonies for beds in a more hospitable location far from here. Any outdoor efforts I've made have been hopelessly over-run by molds and destroyed. Here's hoping that Luck smiles upon me this time. After so many failures, it would be nice to score a win for a change. |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 141
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This is very cool. Good work Myc! My outdoor gardens are currently going (growing) great guns, while their distant familials are halfway across the globe inside your fridge : ) Heres a mini experiment of my own. Day 1 and ay 3 pics respectively. From top left moving clockwise, there is a) Eucalyptus chips b) random backyard crud c) coco coir d) council woodchips. The centre is brf spawn placed straight on cold soaked cardboard. |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Hey GP!! Long time, no see! Glad you weighed in on this one. I was starting to think from the lack of responses that growing woodlovers indoors is just no big deal........happens in every laboratory. Glad to see your efforts succeeding. Please feel free to post progress here. The P. subaeruginosa is a very delicate organism - at least in my evironment. Once I spawned them to the large tubs and they became fully colonized, they succumbed to mold infection. POV is the toughest with no losses - at all. All infections were easily overcome and defeated by this species - I would rate this species as a good entry-level woodlover for the first time cultivator - still very difficult to get clean culture, but once you have one.....they're bomb proof!! P. azuresescens has fared quite well and I only lost one tub to contamination. All contaminated tubs were turned into the wild at the first signs agressive contamination where they quickly succumbed to the environmental extremes and hardy competitors of my geographic location - total failure. I have four, fully colonized invitro woodblocks waiting for me to work up the courage to do something with them (P. sub.) Primordia formation parameters would be most helpful if you can offer any advice (i.e. spawn run temps/rH - duration, primordia formation temps/rH - duration, cropping temps/rH - duration.). Actually, I kept bags of each species to see if they'll fruit invitro. This "control" will help me to answer questions about the necessity of microbial activity, casing layer, fresh air, etc.... Temps in the greenhouse stay between 37*F to 49*F. rH stays around the 95-98% range. FAE five times a day for 1/2 hr. per cycle. I sincerely hope you can offer me some pointers!! |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Universal Mod Join Date: May 1972
Posts: 4,734
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Myc,I have a question... You say you exange the air every 5 hours or so, for 1/2 a hour... Well,what is your humidifier set at ? Is it set right after the ventilators have exanged the fresh air ? You did use a humidifier yes ?
__________________ "As a child, i could walk on the ceiling. I'd butterfly up on the walls" |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Yes and yes to both of your questions. I have a large ultrasonic humidifier hooked up to another incremental timer. The FAE and rH cycles are set up so as not to occur simultaneously. The humidifier runs for one hour, every other hour. Basically, 12 on 12 off. I've been using this strategy for many months now - tweaking and adjusting as I go. Shiitakes, Oysters, Reishi, and Panellus stipticus all responded well to this environment. I just figured other woodlovers would like it too. |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Thanks for the good vibes and checking out the setup. Stamets' guide to P. cyanescens says it should take around 10 days for primordia formation. That puts us somewhere around New Year's day. I may wait a little longer. For fruitbody production he recommends a temperature elevation to the 50-60*F range. I can accomplish this with a small space heater. Fingers crossed! |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| Former Member Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 141
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Unfortunately I can't get real technical with you yet. But I can certainly offer how damn cold it gets here before they start fruiting. In nature they'll fruit whenever there close to plants, especially Eucalyptus trees.. and i'v noticed that they appear much more resistant when they're growing on those yellow coloured euc chips. The best pathces are always under and around trees. Many different types of trees and shrubs, but always Australian natives. On many occasions you could find a large fruit precisely where a decomposing leaf or wood nut was sitting. Mine fruited invitro on some bleached cactus soil and coir at room temperature with minimal ae. If there was a date on the print, you could possibly google 'Canberra weather', or 'A..C.T weather' and may be able to factor several days before this for the temperature ranges you're looking for. Next year i'l have to keep a log book of my hunts. p.s I've had some damp, semi colonised euc chips sitting around inside for 9-10 months, and I can't get them to contam if I try. Anyways, i'l have a good chat to them for you and pass on my best intentions for your sucess |
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Thanks for the good vibes GP!
Looks like they've paid off! Here's the greenhouse. Third and fourth flush Shiitake blocks are doing their thing. Panellus stipticus has been fruiting now for months - bottom shelf. ![]() Overall, P. azurescens seems happiest with the recent weather change. ![]() With P. ovoideocystidiata, a little springtime warm-up may become necessary but I'll wait for the Azures to finish. ![]() All open tub effortrs with P. subaeruginosa failed completly. However, invitro efforts on Mesquite as well as other hardwoods are currently doing well. Colonized Mesquite blocks ![]() Upon closer examination, hayphael knotting and primordia formation are evident! ![]() I'm very optimistic about these efforts and imagine we should be seeing pins within the next 3-4 weeks. Will update when I see anything note-worthy. |
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| | #29 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Yes! That photo is one of the better formations but they are evident all over the blocks. I'm very excited to see invitro fruiting of a non-native woodlover. The Azurescens are demonstrating the same type of growth. Fingers crossed........almost there! |
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| | #30 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 18
![]() | holy monkies
is there a tek vaulted somewheres about invitro-bag azures? I would really love to learn more about the things, they are so beautiful.
__________________ Ephemeral:Europa |
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| | #33 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 12
![]() | Tub Watering? Azure Alder Tubs What frequency do you water during spawn running in your tubs? Experiment of Azure on Alder chips with rye spawn . 12 qt. containers. 3" depth of soaked Alder and soaked cardboard bottom. 80-90% colonized. Can I add more soaked chips to the tubs to continue growth? It's still to cold outside. The tubs are at 65-69 degrees in an exterior closet. |
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| | #34 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 12
![]() | Light Amber Liquid?
These Azure alder tubs are from rye grain spawn. 12 quatr containers aluminum foil covered, eight 1/16" diameter holes for FAE. Getting some light colored amber liquids forming. Stamets mentions this in trouble shooting for grain techs. To high a temperature or to long colonizing. They have been from 65-71 degrees. I have dropeed them back to 65-68 degrees. Problem or not? I also want to add more wood chips to the tubs to increase the swpawn. They are 85-90% colonized. Will this be a problem? |
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| | #35 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
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Your temps look fine to me. I find that lower temperatures inhibit contaminants. As for the amber colored liquid. I have it in mine too. I see it as a sign of fighting infection. If it builds up in the tubs, I just pour it off. Since dunking, I poured the excess water off only once (today). I mist daily due to the tubs which have rye grass growing in them. The un-planted tubs rarely need misting. You should be fine to add more chips whenever you like as long as colonization temps are maintained. |
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| | #36 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 211
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Any updates on your woodlovers Myc? I just multiplied my wild Ps. cyan spawn onto more alder chips-- the batch I gathered in November had nearly fully colonized its tub. It did have a mild bout of slime due to lack of FAE but the rhizomorphs would not be stopped. I hope it will have run the spawn thoroughly by last frost around here (April-May) so I can attempt to cold-shock them into spring fruiting by taking them outside (currently incubating indoors ~58°F). I have witnessed the Seattle strain of Ps. cyans fruit abundantly in watered understory conditions at the beginning of June, so I may have a chance to coax them out. As I understand it, the semi-permanent woodlovers (unlike the hit-and-quit pasture species) may respond well to abuse like surface disturbance, brief freezes, and flooding that are natural cues for the formation of fruit. Have your primordia grown at all? |
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| | #38 (permalink) | |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Quote:
Your post gives me hope. I have plenty of material with which to experiment - so I think one of them has a date with the freezer for a few hours. ![]() The tubs are still quite entertaining to look at though. Perhaps I'll take some update picks. The rye grass is doing very well. | |
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| | #40 (permalink) | |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 245
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
Have you cased any of them yet? I've hunted a few of those wicked Subaeruginosa in my time, and they'll often fruit from Eucalypt leaves. Or pine bark. When the big, cold rains come at that time of year- plenty of leaf litter falls to the ground. It also appears VERY wet.. | |
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| | #41 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | The experiments which I kept as bag culture are starting to weigh less - indicating water loss. The tubs are quite heavy but not saturated - little excess water in the bottom of the tubs. The casing layer was found to be quite saturated. I'm reducing the humidity to allow the casing layer to dry in anticipation of a coming cold front. Fingers crossed. I probed the casing layer of each species and they all appear to be doing well. I'm very hopeful for the P. ovoideocystidiata - they are looking the most promising. Thanks for the tips Shinobi. Anything I can get. No Eucalyptus leaves here though.......I'm sure I'll figure something out. Will update as soon as anything noteworthy happens. |
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| | #42 (permalink) |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | ....and it's Psilocybe ovoideocystidiata by a mile
It appears I was right. Ovoids were most eager to fruit. Pinset is very prolific. I'll post update photos as they develope. I lowered the rH to 60% by reducing the ultrasonic cycle and increasing the fresh air exchange. The casing layer was visibly drying out on the top and I discovered activity in all efforts - companion plant or no - simultaneously while misting. I'm going to keep FAE the same and increase humidity by degrees so the caps won't crack. It should be noted also that the separate cultures vary in age from days to weeks. |
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| | #43 (permalink) |
| Puck Teknician Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,646
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That beautiful "burnt orange" color is the first sign of success ! Great news Myc ![]() You've worked hard on this and it's really exciting to watch unfold. Congratulations. That pic on the right looks amazing !
__________________ We're just flying by the seed of our plants. |
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| | #44 (permalink) | |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 29
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| | #50 (permalink) | |
| El Jardinero Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,041
![]() | Quote:
Outside beds in my location are simply not feasible - at least for temperate species. These blocks fruited just in time. In a couple of short months they'll be living and expanding in an environment which is much more suitable. Thanks everyone for looking in and sharing in my joy! | |
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