Lye wanted

[meanman420]

I'm in need of some lye.I dont need much.maybe around 15 grams.I have some b+ prints for trade.Hit me up with a PM if interested

[oibchip]

Goto the hardware store or even the grocery store and get some Red Devil lye.

[meanman420]

I thought red devil was discontinued.At least there ain't none around here.I have heard that some hardware stores sell straight lye though but thought it may look kinda suspicious

[eastwood]

Roebic drain cleaner = hardware store.

[Fresh Brewed]

Roebic drain cleaner.

[meanman420]

so once I buy the drain cleaner how am I suppose to strain the crystals?If I run it through a coffee filter will the rest of the drain cleaner evaporate off?

[Dr_T]

Yeah, that's the brand around here. It's drain cleaner, nothing suspicious about it. They may ask for ID. Smile and hand it to them. Look a bit confused, maybe even ask why. After you hand it to them, of course.

Edit- no, it won't evap off. Follow the tek, it should say what to do.

[eastwood]

Make sure that you add the lye to water not water to lye.

[lovedinplaster]

you can simply burn wood. "to leach lye from wood ashes shovel your enamel canner full to the top with ashes then pour in water until the solution is thin enough to stir, then add a little more ashes because it tends to settle alot. wire the lid on just a bit loosely so it will fit. lay it flat or slightly tilted forward, and a thick gray liquid will trickle into your bucket. if it clogs turn it until you have a fast drip. let the resulting liquid settle for awhile. successive screenings will remove the gray ash and then finally use a tightly woven cloth. the final liquid should be about the color of yak pee ..... this liquid should be evaporated to strengthen it until an egg floats in it with about the size of a quarter above the surface. at that strength you can use your self made lye at the rates for commercial lye" foster pg. 65 in THE BACKWOODSMAN

oh yea wear gloves and eye protection

[weiliicoyote]

Originally Posted by lovedinplaster

you can simply burn wood. "to leach lye from wood ashes shovel your enamel canner full to the top with ashes then pour in water until the solution is thin enough to stir, then add a little more ashes because it tends to settle alot. wire the lid on just a bit loosely so it will fit. lay it flat or slightly tilted forward, and a thick gray liquid will trickle into your bucket. if it clogs turn it until you have a fast drip. let the resulting liquid settle for awhile. successive screenings will remove the gray ash and then finally use a tightly woven cloth. the final liquid should be about the color of yak pee ..... this liquid should be evaporated to strengthen it until an egg floats in it with about the size of a quarter above the surface. at that strength you can use your self made lye at the rates for commercial lye" foster pg. 65 in THE BACKWOODSMAN

oh yea wear gloves and eye protection

That's really cool, I didn't know that was possible. Thanks for the tip Backwoodsman

If all else fails, there is tons of inexpensive lye on ebay.

[cuts]

Originally Posted by weiliicoyote

That's really cool, I didn't know that was possible. Thanks for the tip Backwoodsman

If all else fails, there is tons of inexpensive lye on ebay.

Yea..true. But do you really want everyone to know that your buying lye? Certain...shall we say, people can see what your buying online. Especially if you use a credit card.

[meanman420]

hey man thanks for the tip.I didn't even think about making my own.I read up on it a little more and seems pretty simple.When making your own you can make it as strong as you want.They said that it's best to use hard wood such as oak though for the ashes.I'm going to try to make my own instead of buying drain cleaner.

[Dave_the_stoner]

Originally Posted by lovedinplaster

you can simply burn wood. "to leach lye from wood ashes shovel your enamel canner full to the top with ashes then pour in water until the solution is thin enough to stir, then add a little more ashes because it tends to settle alot. wire the lid on just a bit loosely so it will fit. lay it flat or slightly tilted forward, and a thick gray liquid will trickle into your bucket. if it clogs turn it until you have a fast drip. let the resulting liquid settle for awhile. successive screenings will remove the gray ash and then finally use a tightly woven cloth. the final liquid should be about the color of yak pee ..... this liquid should be evaporated to strengthen it until an egg floats in it with about the size of a quarter above the surface. at that strength you can use your self made lye at the rates for commercial lye" foster pg. 65 in THE BACKWOODSMAN

oh yea wear gloves and eye protection

If I'm not mistaken that produces potassium hydroxide (Common for homeade soap making), rather than sodium hydroxide (also common for soap making but has other common uses as well).

[meanman420]

No it makes sodium hydroxide but may have some other biproducts in it.I was thinking of letting the water evaporate so that I get pure crystal but not sure if will work.So far I got everything I need except a wood barrel.This is some text from wikihow


Lye, also known as NaOH, sodium hydroxide, or caustic soda, is used in making soap, and also in biodiesel fuel production. You could easily buy lye from a chemical supply house or online, but you may find great satisfaction in doing it all yourself, not to mention the money you will save.
Steps

1. Start a rain barrel to catch soft water. This is a key step. Depending upon how much lye you want to leach, make sure that you have 2 or 3 gallons of soft water before you proceed.
2. Find a local brewer's supply house and pick up a wooden barrel and a cork about 3" long. You can use a cask-sized or waist-high barrel.
3. Take the barrel home and drill a hole in it approx. 2" above the bottom. Make sure that the cork will fit snugly into the hole.
4. Find a place that the barrel will be undisturbed. Lye is caustic. Take the necessary precautions. Put some bricks down and place the barrel on top of them. The brick base must be stable. It raises the barrel up so that you can easily drain off the lye into a container when it is ready. Give yourself room to work.
5. Cover the bottom of the barrel with some palm-sized clean rocks (e.g. river rock). Cover the rocks with approximately 6" of straw (this can be hay or grass). This will filter the ashes and help your lye drain cleanly.
6. Gather branches and/or logs of oak, ash, or fruitwoods. Remember that the best lye is made from hardwoods. Avoid pine, fir, and other evergreens.
7. Burn it outside in a pile, or better yet, use it in your fireplace or woodstove.
8. Scoop the ashes out and put them in the prepped barrel. (Make sure that the ash is completely cold, or you'll set your barrel and anything around it on fire.) You can fill the barrel with ash but it is not necessary you can make smaller amounts with less ash.
9. Put a pan under the hole and remove the cork. Pour the soft water in until you see it start to drain into the pan, then put the cork back in tight. The water level should be about 6" from the top. After a day, the first ash should settle and you can add more ash.
10. Let it sit for at least 3 days. You can add ash all week and drain it regularly on a specific day of the week.
11. Check to see if your lye is ready. For what purpose are you leaching this lye? Body soap or heavy cleaning? Lye concentration gets stronger with each leaching. For average soap making, you can use these measures: Drop a fist-sized potato or a raw egg into the barrel. If it floats enough for a quarter-size piece to rise above the water, it is ready. If it doesn't, you need to add more ashes or drain all the water and re-leach it (pour it back into the cask and let it set one more cycle).
12. Make sure that you have a wooden crock or glass container to catch your lye when it's ready. Put it under the tap, gently pull the cork, and fill your containers. Leave enough head room that they will be safe and easy to pour. Make sure that you have tight fitting lids.
13. Store your lye in a cool dark place until use. (The sooner the better.)

[Deathocybin]

hey I dont know if anyone has said this yet or not but isnt potassium hydroxide safer & less salty then sodium hydroxide???? I have read that it is a good sub & safer when making extracting to be ingested

& I have Roebic heavy duty 100% lye 2 lbs from tractor supply store

[MycoChondria]

Originally Posted by Deathocybin

hey I dont know if anyone has said this yet or not but isnt potassium hydroxide safer & less salty then sodium hydroxide???? I have read that it is a good sub & safer when making extracting to be ingested...

KOH reacts more violently in H2O than does NaOH. This may be a good thing in terms of getting your basifying reactions started. Unfortunately, KOH is not easily acquired compared to NaOH unless you go to a chemical shop that sells reagents like this.

[meanman420]

Originally Posted by Dave_the_stoner

If I'm not mistaken that produces potassium hydroxide (Common for homeade soap making), rather than sodium hydroxide (also common for soap making but has other common uses as well).

I stand corrected.This is a quote from wikipedia on the subject.I really wish that I would have found this before I went through all the hassle to get all the supplies.Well maybe I'll just make some soap for the fun of it.Has anyone seen a TEK for using potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide for a DMT extraction of MHRB?

Of historical significance is the old method of boiling a solution of potassium carbonate (potash) with calcium hydroxide (slaked lime). A metathesis reaction occurs, precipitating calcium carbonate, leaving potassium hydroxide in solution:
Ca(OH)2 (s), (aq) + K2CO3 (aq) → CaCO3 (s) + 2 KOH (aq) Filtering off the precipitated calcium carbonate, and boiling down the solution gives potassium hydroxide ("calcinated or caustic potash"). This method used potash extracted from wood ashes and slaked lime. Probably known since antiquity, it was the most important method of producing potassium hydroxide until the late 19th century,[citation needed] when it was largely replaced by the modern method of electrolysis of potassium chloride solutions, analogous to the method of manufacturing sodium hydroxide (see chloralkali process):
2 K+ (aq) + 2H2O (l) + 2e− → H2 (g) + 2 KOH (aq) Hydrogen gas forms as a by-product on the cathode; concurrently, an anodic oxidation of the chloride ion takes place, forming chlorine gas as a byproduct:
2 Cl– — 2e− → Cl2 (g) Separation of the anodic and cathodic spaces in the electrolysis cell is essential for this process.[7]

[Doctor D]

Originally Posted by meanman420

Has anyone seen a TEK for using potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide for a DMT extraction of MHRB?

Buy some pH test strips that measure up to pH 14; use the same tek you would use if you had lye, except substitute KOH. The concept is the same.

[meanman420]

Thanks Doctor D.Depending on the end result this may be a good substitute for Lye