Crystal Clear Mescaline HCL -- easy as pie

[Myco-Iggy]

Yea, so despite a few complications...
I think I might have done good

The HCl salts were formed by gas,
Caught with water but once seperate, lots of color

I evaped at 200*F and scraped to get a cruddy green Xstal.

Warm acetone seems to have helped alot.
Should find out just how well it was cleaned.

I like the new method, but Ill probably do a titration since I got the equipment still from last try with my next kilo.
After collecting the Xstals in water from the solvent, titrate, then a slow simmer down + filter then carbon/boil and filter
did an amazing hands off job of cleaning.

I want to try the IPA/dH2O ReXstal to see how well the cream colored stuff can still be cleaned.

1.3 from half of a 500g extraction, will finish the other half and try cleaning the cream.

Thanks for all the help!!! Ive learned alot on cleaning.

[tregar]

Welcome MateOx...good to see you. This is good chemistry practice in lab techniques, learning about re-crystallization process, drying solvents, vacuum filtering, etc.

It is roughly 98% mescaline HCl. Even if green and ugly. when you filter the stuff, the green stained toluene sticks to the powder and stains it. Its unavoidable unless you have a centrifuge.

I used xylene, so mine turned a bright yellow color. Which did you use xylene or toluene?

**That's really strange that when you collected with water, that the water turned green! I've never had that happen, usually the water stays "crystal clear" or takes on a tiny tint of yellow--but only on the 4rth pull. But I did use a sep funnel: I added my gased xylene to the sep funnel, then poured in some hot water, let it sit for 15 seconds, then drained off the bottom water layer which was always clear. Did you use a sep funnel? If you pour your gassed xylene into a sep funnel, then add 1/2 cup of boiling hot water, the water stays crystal clear as it pulls only the mescaline from the solution in the sep funnel, it will be your bottom layer and should be clear, not green or yellow water. It might have a very slight tinge of yellow, but not much at all.

Everytime I've gassed my non-polar (dried xylene) it turned a bright yellow color and not green.

Anyhow, it looks like your acetone wash worked just fine...what I would do now is experiment with re-crystallization techniques to get beautiful pure white or crystal clear mescaline hcl, just like you said you would work on. It looks like you were able to remove the stained nonpolar color from the mescaline hcl.

If this method doesn't work for you, then yes, there's always titration you can do next time.

Anyhow, Let's concentrate on the re-crystallization: I have some good stuff to post on this in the next post. There's where the real magic is at: whether you gas or titrate or do the standard extraction posted by ekstaza/waylitjim, if you re-crystallize your product, it can come out pure white or see thru clear. Gassing your product just gets you a little closer to a cleaner product, so only a 1st pass re-crystallization should yield beautiful perfect product...it will take usually 1 to 2 re-crystallization passes on product from the standard titration or other salting to get to perfect product.

I'm going to be re-crystallizing my product to get it crystal clear using white's method (it does work) of 80% mek, 20% iso, water to taste...

or I will follow the simple mek-recrystallization on post #47 . It should work as there is some water in the mek. I'm pull out my lab hot plate in a couple weeks.

Both methods are "dual-solvent" recrystallizations.

Good job. I'll be posting some new badass re-crystallization stuff in a little bit.

Thanks so much for the pics too. The only reason I can think that your stuff turned green after you gassed it was because either:

1) you used toluene instead of xylene, doesn't matter which you use.

2) "over-gassing" might be the cause of green stained product, but it is easily washed away.

3) the non-polar was not dried with dried epsom salts for about 1/2 hour or more.

4) You gassed your xylene solution, but then did not bubble air thru it with an aquarium pump for 5 to 30 minutes to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas in the non-polar.

How did the gassing go? Did you find it easy? How many times did you submerge the wand in the non-polar and gass it? About 5 to 10 times?

Also, you may find that you get a much cleaner product by using a sep funnel...pour your gassed xylene into the sep funnel, and allow the mescaline to fall to the bottom over a period of 30 minutes...it will all collect at the bottom, from this point on you have 2 options:

1) Option #1 is to collect with boiling hot water....pour your boiling hot water into the sep funnel, then it will collect on the bottom and pull your mescaline out...drain it all out within 30 seconds or so, then put it into a pyrex brownie dish, evaporate off the water overnight, then scrape it up and clean it with an acetone wash.
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2) Option #2 will give you very clean product....pour your gassed xylene solution into the sep funnel, and wait 30 minutes for all the mescaline to fall and collect at the bottom of the sep funnel.

Then just drain out the bottom mescaline layer: it will be a bright yellow color if you did everything correctly. It might be green like you got. It will be a brown puddle if you did not correctly dry your nonpolar. It's all good.

Then just follow these instructions to get beautiful white product (I have done it this way, and it does work):

See post gass cleanup instructions and acetone/water re-crystallization on post #45.
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Anyhow, in a few hours I'll be posting all of the known re-crystallization techniques that have been used sucessfully with mescaline hcl to get beautiful pure white to crystal clear (see-thru) product with no impurities. Re-crystallization is more an artform than a science, but it gives you potent clean product with virtually no body-load. Whether you salt your mescaline freebase by gassing, titration, or other methods to arrive at your mescaline hcl, it can be cleaned further to yield beautiful product by the magic of dual solvent re-crystallization--it removes the impurities from the crystals yielding a beautiful pure crystalline matrix that grows over a 24 hour period from tiny crystals to large clean crystal matrix, leaving the colored impurities behind in the solvent which you just pour off or filter the whole solution thru a buchner funnel, it will leave your pure crystals on the top of the filter, then just rinse your crystals with some cold acetone. You let your re-crystallization solution cool from boiling down to room temperature, then you put it in the fridge, then you put it in the freezer...a day later you have clean crystals with no impurities.

[tregar]

This is the alternate way of collecting your product from your sep funnel if you don't want to collect with water. I did it this alternate way to show you how nice it comes out...

1.) On the left is a picture of my dry xylene containing mescaline freebase after it was gassed. Note the bright yellow color of the mescaline and xylene stained yellow at the bottom that collects around the crystals. This is normal.
2.) Pour the jar into a sep funnel.
3.) Wait 30 minutes, and all of the yellow stained mescaline hcl will collect at the bottom of the sep.
4.) Drain out the yellow stained mescaline into a buchner cup with a filter disc and put it on a buchner funnel vacuum setup.
5.) Clean it with acetone and rinse with more acetone (at least 3 times) following avalo's post gass cleanup on post #45, I've also re-posted it below.
6.) This is a pic of the yellow goo ball that drops out of the lower part of the sep funnel...after a while the xylene evaporates off the product, but as it's evaporating you can see white mescaline oozing out of it and collecting on the dish.
7.) The yellow goo ball must be cleaned and rinsed with acetone on a buchner cup following avalo's procedure here: Then you must use boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization to drive off the solvent fumes from the white mescaline...this also gets it crystalline pure. Here's the procedure you follow:

Part I, Post Gassing Clean-up

Filter the mescaline.hcl from the gassed xylene with a buchner funnel & vacuum. (or if you put it into a sep funnel, it will be the lower bright yellow layer, just drain it out into a small puddle). Wait a little white for the xylene to evaporate off the powder.

Then wash the powder with clean xylene. This flushes through any brown cactus crap that was also in the xylene.

Now disconnect the vacuum hose to break the vacuum. Then reattach it, but leave the vacuum turned off. This creates a sealed volume of air, so when you pour liquid on top of the filter paper, the trapped air will tend to keep it there instead of allowing it to drain through.

Now using a wash bottle, wash the powder with acetone until it's completely covered, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then turn the vacuum on, and filter through the acetone. Now rinse the powder with more acetone as it's being sucked through. This soaking and washing will remove the vast majority of the xylene.

Cover the filter funnel with a large oversized piece of filter paper, and suck air through the funnel for a couple of minutes, this will help dry the powder and protect it from dust.

Now remove the filter funnel and allow the white powder to completely dry.

Once dry, the power will flake off the filter paper, so you won't get mushy paper fibres in with your product. (tregar: see post #54, that's a picture of the whiteness the gassed product will be after doing this simple fast acetone cleaning): but it's still not done yet--it has solvent fumes/residue that must be "driven" off by adding it to boiling hot water, the next step.


Part II, Acetone/Water Recrystallisation

Place the mescaline.hcl powder in small 50 mL Erlenmeyer flask.

Use hot distilled water to soak the filter paper, and wash the filter funnel.
Add this to the flask, and then add a small boiling chip.

Using a lab hot plate or oil bath, boil the water down until it starts to get a sheen on the surface.
The boiling water will drive off any residual solvent vapours, and you boil it until the mescaline gets concentrated.

Then remove it from the heat, and let it cool down a bit. If crystals start forming immediately, then you've boiled off too much water. So add a bit more water then re-heat it and boil it down again.

Once the solution is concentrated and warm but not hot, then add an equal volume of acetone. Crystals should start forming immediately.

If the crystals don't form when you add the acetone, then there was too much water in there, so boil it down again. The acetone will all boil off first, then boil off a bit more water before letting it cool and re-adding some more acetone.

Once you add the acetone and the crystals start forming, then reheat it, and drip in a single drop of water at a time, until all the crystals dissolve in the hot acetone/water solution.

Then remove the boiling chip and let the solution slowly cool down to room temperature, then place it in the fridge.

Filter the pure crystals out.

You can also recover the mescaline traces and impurities by evaporating off the waste liquid on a Pyrex dish.

The recrystallisation is a bit of mucking about, and I hear it takes practice to master, I've only read about this at the moment. But the trick is to get the crystals to grow out of the solution as it cools. If you crash the crystals out too soon, then they form small crystals that grow very fast and trap impurities inside the crystal matrix.

The other thing you can do to remove solvent residue is put your powder or crystals in a short test tube and place them inside a filter flask. Put a solid bung in the top and then turn the vacuum on. The reduced pressure makes the solvents evaporate off much more quickly.

[tregar]

See the yellow goo ball on the top post? Well, after you wash it with acetone and rinse it with acetone, it looks like this--very white--the picture you see below is when I took the white wet filter disc from the buchner after the washing and rinsing with acetone (took 5 minutes or so) and plopped it into a vacant dish...as the last of the acetone evaporated from the mescaline, it coated the entire dish, so I scraped it up to get it ready for the next step...now you just follow the water/acetone re-crystallization steps above (part II) to drive off solvent fumes and get it pure as can be.

The bright yellow color washes away from the gassed product VERY EASILY and QUICKLY with acetone as you can tell. The product is indeed white, but it is not done yet! It needs to be added to boiling hot water to drive off any solvent fumes--this will eliminate all chemical residue, taste and smell from the product. Just follow avalo's boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization above (part II) or another method of re-crystallization of your choosing.

Myco-Iggy is dreaming about doing the IPA/water re-crystallization process, that's another great method you can substitute in place of part II above...there are many different re-crystallization methods you can use.

I'll post some more good re-crystallization methods later that may be easier. Even if you used a different method of salting out your mescaline, such as waylitjim's method or a different method and ended up with very brown, brown, or tan product, you can do a re-crystallization on it to get some pure looking stuff...re-crystallization will remove the impurities from very brown, brown, tan, off-white or white mescaline.

[tregar]

Ok, here it is, what I've promised...

THE ULTIMATE COMPILATION OF DUAL and TRIPLE SOLVENT RE-CRYSTALLIZATION METHODS for mescaline hcl:

I'm going to list and describe all the details of 4 popular methods below...also don't forget the 5th method above by avalo (part II) on post #53. Study and pick the re-crystallization method you like the most....experiment till you find the one you like the best. Once you read all the methods in this post, you will see how similar they are and have a better overall understanding of re-crystallization.

Refer to Chapter 13 "Recrystallization" pages 119 to 133 for an excellent description of how to re-crystallize with pictures from the book The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual by James W. Zubrick. You will need a lab hot plate or similar (no flames), your solvent and product, and an Erlenmeyer flask, not a beaker. "If you recrystallize compounds in beakers, you may find the solid climbing the walls of the beaker to get at you as a reminder. A 125ml Erlenmeyer usually works."

I'm very interested in re-crystallizing my small amount of powder. I just so happen to be very sensitive to impurities, and just plain like re-crystallizing stuff now that I've read so much on it...I'll post pics in a few weeks of the results before and after. I don't care if it takes 1/2 a day to do or more...1 pass should do it with the gassed product I believe. I was very impressed with white's photos of the before and after: before: 1500mg opal tan, after 1234mg crystalling translucent mescaline hcl. me!'s hcl crystals are just as mind-blowing. Like me! saids, the re-crystallized product has no perceptable body load, very clear.

These are some questions I asked white:

What were the approximate amounts of 80% MEK and 20% of the 99% ISO that you used for the 1500 opal tan? I'm going to try this in a couple weeks, just waiting on a real lab hotplate I've decide to go with.

Question 1) You used 10x the volume solvent to product as fine powder. So if you have 1500mg powder, how much MEK would that be? How much ISO would that be? I'm not good at this kind of conversion.

Question 2) Do you think there is a bigger advantage to using MEK with ISO together as opposed to MEK by itself?

Question 3) You used non-dried MEK right out of the can right? Just checking to make sure.

Question 4) What do you think of method 2 below by Unknown? It works because MEK has some water in it, so it's a dual solvent re-crystallization. Do you think it will work as posted? It looks like a nice method for a beginner.

Question 5) What do you think of method 3 by me! ??

Because, in me!'s method he used 150ml of boiling hot MEK to 3 grams of mescaline hcl.

However, avalo saids to use 100mL of boiling hot DRY MEK per 1 gram mescaline powder.

Who's right? I'm just a little confused...

me! saids:

The solubility of the HCl salt in water is right around 700 mg/cc in warm (but not boiling) water. give or take as much as 50 mg... the actual solubility is slightly higher than this, but 700 is approaching saturation...

solubility in boiling mek is more like 1000 mg to 150 cc or 6.7 mg/cc...

solubility in boiling IPA is in between but much, much closer to water... like 500 mg/cc or thereabouts.

solubility in methanol is closest to water, followed by ethanol then IPA... (makes sense... order of polarity...)

the figures for water are pretty good. the ones for mek and IPA are ballpark figures, but pretty close to accurate..

1) White's excellent method (see pic of his translucent mescaline hcl earlier in this thread):

I gave this a go using 99% iso.First attempt used too little solvent and ended up with a chunk in the freezer so redid it with 5x by volume iso and brought to heat this nearly disolved it completely. I added only one drop of water and it cleared I reduced it until it "shimmered" and cooled slowly to recover a thick layer of clear-tan xtalsfrom the alcohol these were xylene washed to remove even more "color" then boiled in etOH to clear all solvents and dried to the same color as tregars gassed product ( pics when camera gets some batteries).

Results; MEK/Iso/H2O is much more efficient at collecting impurities and trapping them while releasing the alkaloid in a more pure state .Iso/water returned only 74% of the product as crystaline and held over 25% in solution after freeze precipitation it also left more color than the MEK/Iso/H2O method which generaly returns high 80 to mid ninty percent of my "crude" as off white Xtals.

80%MEK/20%ISO/ water to taste.Dropwise until it reaches shimmerosity then one or two past till just barely clear, boil until just shimmering again and slow cool.
I use 10x by volume solvent to product as fine powder.
for very clean linen white product repeat process then slow crystalize from etOH for clear needles. Pics below.

That was just for show. It can be done to perfection. For me however this is wasteful of my time and effort as the opal tan from a 'tone wash and etOH boil is as good as I need. Just wanted to show what CAN be done with practice and if it is that important to you. 'Tone ,MEK and MIBK will all work as will etOH in place of ISO but the 95% etOH I get you dropper in after10% due to the 5% H2O.
1500mg opal tan yielded 1234mg of the clear crystals pictured after two passes and an etOH boil

2) Method "2" by Unknown:

This method cleans most phenethylamines extremely well. You will lose a little product doing this but SWIM reckons purity is the most important aspect of his drugs.

Methyl ethyl keytone is NP but it forms an azetrope with water meaning it will hold a little water. When MEK is bought over the counter as plumb weld primer it has water in it. Acetone does as well and is the reason people lose product when rinsing with it. The water in the MEK is going to be usefull to clean up Mescaline.

Place your Mescaline HCl in a beaker. Add just enough MEK to dissolve it. Put the beaker on a hotplate and bring to a vigorous boil. Use the minimum heat it takes to achieve vigorous boiling.

SAFETY NOTE: Always be careful when boiling flammable liquids. Only use laboratory hotplates or you can modify one from you local dollar store. The thermostats in them work by expanding and contracting metal which can cause a spark when it turns on and off. Solder it closed and put light dimmer switch in the power line. Probably be good to get a professional to put it in. Do it yourself at your own risk.

Boil the MEK until you start to see signs of saturation. You will know its saturated when little crystal start forming on the side of the beaker. Remove it from the heat and put it in the freezer until it is ice cold. Overnight is overkill but SWIM loves overkill in this situation.

When you remove it from the freezer the MEK will be yellow or brown and there will be crystals in the solution. Filter these out. SWIM always uses vacuum filter.

Rinse the crystals with ice cold anhydrous acetone. To make the acetone anhydrous (remove the water) bake some epsom salts in the oven at high temp for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Filter the acetone a few times before you use any.

After the crystals are rinsed dissolve them in minimal boiling hot dH2O and evap. SWIM always does this after acetone rinses to remove any remaining acetone so as to not endanger anyone whos predeliction is towards IV.

3) Method 3 by me! (excellent white to translucent product):

Approximately 3 grams of naturally occurring white mescaline HCl that had been previously produced by gassing was added to 150 ml of boiling methyl ethyl ketone. The ketone was allowed to boil vigorously but was observed to be clouded by undissolved material. Distilled water was added by dropwise addition until the clouding cleared. The material was boiled down until the solvent just began to display signs of saturation, at which time, it was removed from the heat, covered and transferred to a freezer. At the conclusion of two hours time, the beaker was removed from the freezer and observed to be filled with a golden colored liquid saturated by a massive conglomeration of a material that bore uncanny resemblance to sparkling clean crushed ice. The contents of the beaker were fast filtered through a vacuum funnel and rinsed with very anhydrous ice cold mek followed ice cold anhydrous acetone. After subsequently stripping any residual solvent under vacuum, the material was observed to display spectacular clear needle formations, each roughly .10 mm in length.

The bulk of this material was subsequently dissolved in a minimum of boiling distilled water and the volume of the solution reduced to just above saturation. At this time, the beaker was removed from the heat and placed on the lab bench for observation. It was immediately noticed that a thin skin of crystals had appeared around the upper interface between the walls of the beaker and the mescaline liquor. Within seconds, the skin began to expand radially inward at a rate of very roughly .2 mm/sec. Simultaneous to the skin moving across the surface of the liquid, an amazing array of fractal patterns appeared in its wake, frozen in the crystal. After an hour, the beaker was observed to be filled with long dagger shaped crystals that lay parallel to the base of the vessel. It was then flooded with anhydrous acetone and the crystals broken free into a suitable vacuum funnel. Upon drying under vacuum, the material assumed the appearance of very large white/clear shards of mescaline hydrochloride.

me! in depth on the above process:

Of course one can do the boil outside and then bring it inside to put it in the freezer... this isnt such a bad idea as boiling mek reeks pretty badly... swim happens to rather like the smell of mek, but nobody he's ever lived with shares in his strange love for the smell of boiling ketones and these kinds of experiments have caused more than one domestic dispute in swim's house... also, ketone solvents such as mek and acetone are quite flammable, so doing this outdoors adds a measure of safety in that the vapors wont concentrate in a small space... one needs copious ventilation when doing this indoors to avoid risk of fire or being overcome by the vapors... this isn't really that big of a deal when working with small samples but the smell is very extremely disagreeable to many, if not most people... doing this outdoors really is a good idea providing one can do so without some busybody snooping on his activities and calling the cops...

what happens with this is that mescaline HCl is not terribly soluble in mek, boiling or not... the "cloudiness" that swim mentions is caused by the undissolved mescaline clouding the solution... one simply adds water in very, very small increments until the solution ceases to be clouded by any undissolved mescaline... just a few drops at a time, little by little until the liquid turns clear... the water simply causes all of the mescaline to go ahead and dissolve... then one just boils it down until he notices it taking on a "shiny" appearance... think of something like silver or gold paint that has been sitting for a very long time --- this kind of paint will often seperate, with the solid part going to the bottom and the solvent floating to the top... now imagine taking a stick and very gently stirring it so as to bring some of the solids up into the solvent layer... you will see a metallic shimmering "swirl" in the wake of the stick you are stirring it with --- this is exactly the sort of "shimmer" swim is refering to with the mescaline... its not as bright, of course, as the aluminum powder that makes the metallic paint shimmer and sparkle but it looks very, very similar... this is what you are looking for... when you see it begin to appear this way that is when to put it in the freezer... give it about an hour or two in the freezer --- if nothing happens (i mean if no crystallization occurs) in 2 hours time, it only means you did not boil it down far enough... just return it to the heat and boil it down a little further and then put it in the freezer again... you might have to boil it two or three times (especially if you have never done an mek crystallization before) but just keep returning it to the heat and boiling it a little more and then putting it back in the freezer until it crystallizes... once you find the "sweet spot" the first time, it will be exceptionally easy to find it in subsequent experiments... its not in the slightest bit difficult but like I said, if the process is unfamiliar to you it might take a couple of tries to get it boiled down to the right concentration for crystallization to occur... the nice thing about this sort of technique is that it is nearly impossible to damage your product unless you boil it down to tar and let it overheat and burn it...

to further understand the process, swim strongly recommends studying swigeezmiester's recent thread on the technique as applied to pseudoephedrine HCl...

*********************

do, of course bear in mind that swigeeze is writing about pseudoephedrine HCl and not mescaline HCl so many of the fine details are not going to directly apply, but the underlying mechanisms and techniques are identical --- the exact amounts of solvents and legths of time and such that geez speaks of are not going to be the same at all with mescaline but the theory is identical and his write up is the most comprehensive and complete description of the technique swim has come across so far... it will assist you greatly in understanding what exactly is going on...

swim himself developed the mescaline/mek technique out of repeated experiments with mek crystallizations of pseudoephedrine and *************** and is of the opinion that this sort of crystallization regime will work on any hydrochloride phenethylamine salt although he has not attempted it with any of these compounds except for hydrochloride salts of pseudoephedrine, ***************, ephedrine and mescaline... it works exactly the same with each of these with the differences being only in the relative amounts of polar solvent (water, methanol or other alcohol) that one uses...

also, you will notice that swigeeze employs methanol and references the use of other alcohols in place of water in his write up... swim has not tried any of these with mescaline, but can think of no reason whatsoever that they will not work with this phenethylamine as well... bear in mind, that swigeeze is working with material that has been deliberately adulterated with exceedingly difficult to remove agents added to thwart efforts at purification... while the cactus does contain natural agents that behave in very similar fashion to some of these gaaks, the naturally occuring impurities in the cactus are nowhere near as tenacious as the human engineered ones present in pseudoephedrine pills and do not require anywhere near as much precision to remove...

in particular, swim's mescaline experiments have not required boiling the material down quite as far as what swigeeze mentions with pseudoephedrine although swim can find no reason that boiling it down this far would in any way result in a substandard product... its just not the exact way swim did the experiments...

(bear in mind that mek crystallization of mescaline is pretty much uncharted territory and the final word on the topic is far, far from being written... just play with it and see what swiyou comes up with... you really cant go wrong... even if you find you must abort the experiements for whatever reason, dont worry about losing your product --- simply evaporate the mek off the product and it will return to you exactly as it was before you dumped it into the mek...

(swigeez spared no effort at presenting a highly comprehensive description of what his research has revealed and it could appear overwhelming to one not used to this sort of chemistry (purification of pseudoephedrine from denatured OTC preparations)... but a rigorous study of his write up cannot fail to provide you with a much more comprehensive understanding of the technique and why it works...)

as far as the differences between highly pure crystalline mescaline HCl and crude brown impurity laden mescaline HCl... first and foremost, pay no attention whatsoever to those who claim there is no difference or to those who claim the impure stuff has a better effect...

swim has been arguing with these luddites for a number of years now and knows many of them personally... the honest truth seems to be that the majority of them are offended by a **** cook using techniques perfected and developed in the **** lab on mescaline... there is a certain segment of the clandestine chemistry community (those who like to toss around nonsensical words such as "entheogen" and such...) who believe that **** is evil and that anything we ********* develop is also spiritually on the wrong side of the fence... seems they believe that a product produced in a mason jar with the most egregiously ghetto of possible methods is more "spiritual" than a product produced by more advanced means...

I would counter that the Creator endowed me with my intellect and my ability to utilize and develop tools to better survive in my environment and to refuse to make full use of all that has been made available to me is the grossest of insults to that which Created me! The prehistoric Shaman who first ground up a cactus between two rocks and boiled it in a clay pot with water and lemon juice was utilizing the full scope of the technology available to him at the time... one can best believe that had he had access to such things as mek, he would surely have used it! There is nothing inherantly spiritual about crude prehistoric technology that is not present in modern technology...

the simple fact of the matter is that the more pure a given drug becomes the safer it becomes for the end user (more accurate dosing along with the absence of potentially dangerous and unknown impurities translates into greater safety for those who consume the products) and also the more potent it becomes... many people steadfastly believe that there are additional alkaloids present in trichocerus cacti than mescaline, however, long, long experimentation (several years) has convinced swim otherwise... trichocerus cacti do not share the same alkaloid profile with peyote cacti which are know to legitimate science to contain several additional alkaloids, a number of which are known to be psychoactive in one way or another... every indication seems to point to the trichocerus cacti containing but a single alkaloid, mescaline...

swim has not, however, performed TLC or other such direct investigations of the material to verify this... most of the reason he believes as he does is based on observations of the melting points of very highly purified samples of trichocerus based mescaline... swim has successfully produced samples that routinely and predictably melt within fractions of a degree of published known values for the alkaloid... were additional alkaloids presnt, crystallization alone would not seperate them (chromatography or other such advanced methods would be required) from one another and the resulting products' melting points would be divergant from published values for the pure substance...

just as certain impurities in *************** can radically modify the percieved effects of the drug, so do impurities modify the percieved effects of mescaline...

swim finds that, as purity of the material increases, body load decreases and the effect becomes more cerebral and more "clear"... above all, same as with *************** HCl, the potency of the material seems to increase exponentially as purity increases... it seems the impurities present do much more than merely throw off the dosing... they seem to invariably inhibit the actions of almost all drugs... true, some impurities in **** seem to intensify the rush but this inevitably comes at a cost of a shorter duration at best or obnoxious and/or unhealthy (even dangerous) side effects at worse... mescaline, being a hallucinogen that shares the same phenethylamine core with the true amphetamines is also something of a stimulant and seems to follow the exact same pattern.

in spite of the volumes swim and others write in attempts to explain this technique, it really is an extremely simple and easy proceedure... much, much more foolproof than regular dual solvent crystalization techniques (ie: those that use water and acetone or an alcohol and acetone...)

Tregar (May, 2007):

Can the sanchez just be added to boiling MEK on a hotplate outside, allowed to cool, then put in freezer for a while till xtals formed, then filtered off under vacuum? Or is there more to it than that, what is with the adding of distilled water to get out cloudiness...don't understand any of that.

Avalo (May, 2007): Excellent answer, thanks so much for this Avalo, learned alot. NOW I understand.

No, that wouldn't work because mescaline.hcl is practically insoluble in MEK, but it is soluble in water. The MEK thing is a dual solvent recrystalisation: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and mescaline, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the mescaline is. That's why the mescaline will drop out first.

This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.

After getting the mescaline powder to dissolve, you boiling the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.

4) method "4" by persona:

Personally, I would go with a more defined recrystallization. The easiest thing to do would be to Isolate your crystals as per the method given, and recrystallize from USP grade 91% isopropanol and dH2O. Using these two would ensure purity. Put your crystals in a beaker, heat isopropanol on a water bath till a boil, cover the crystals and slowly start adding hot dH2O until they are dissolved (this whole process is done while the isopropanol/water/Mescaline solution is boiling). Then continue heating and add a few drops of room temperature 91% isopropanol, until you start seeing a very very slight film or precipitation develop. Then remove your water bath from the heat, cover it with a towel (with the beaker still in it), and leave it alone and completely undisturbed, in a fairly dust free enviroment until it reaches room temperature and then some few hours on top of that. Stick the whole thing in the fridge very carefully after that, followed by into the freezer. This entire process, if you are patient and do it properly, should take around 24-36 hours. Some fairly spectacular crystals will develop, which you can then used as seed crystals for subsequent crystallizations, which save you a lot of time and also allow for extremely pure crystal formation.

The nice thing is that once you have one seed crystal, you can cut the time needed for recrystallizations quite a bit, and also can ensure purity and quality with 0 worry. Believe me, it's really worth it to try. Try and recrystallizing 1g, it will be worth it.

As far as ratios go, just figure it out experimentally. Heat your solvent and add it slowly to the crystals until they are at least covered. I would say, 5g of crystals in 25-30ml of isopropyl alcohol is reasonable. Then add water from there. It will take some time to figure out the true ideal ratios, but if you understand the concepts behind crystallization it's a cinch.

I should probably mention these now. You want to create a solution that dissolves the Mescaline at boiling, but is relatively insoluble to Mescaline at freezing. You want the impurities (primarily non-polar substances, or amine salts like Mescaline , present in far smaller amounts) to remain soluble in solution.

If you use too much alcohol in beginning, say 100ml per 1g Mescaline , you will just dissolve your crystals at all temperatures, and will need to boil down your alcohol to attain a more proper mix. So if you add too much alcohol, before adding more water, let the alcohol evaporate and then add water.

If you use too much water, you will need to evaporate the solution down a fair amount and then repeat the procedure from start basically. Avoid doing this, always add extra alcohol, not water.

If you need to adjust crystal solubility remember, adding more water dissolves more crystals, so ultimately adding 3ml of water might dissolve an entire gram... at room temperature! You need to add water slowly. If you added too much water, you would want to evaporate the water for a few minutes, then add more alcohol so that the crystals precipitate slightly upon adding the very last drop.

Once you have your idealized solution, let's say, ~90ml ~60/40 isopropanol/water @ 90C dissolves 10g of Mescaline you find, at precipitates 9g at freezing (this is made up so don't actually use this to start, use the above methods)...

You start with 10g Mescaline . You add 91% boiling IPA to the crystals. The beaker that the crystals are in should now be placed in the water bath, and the solvent continued to be boiled. Only a little bit dissolves. Slowly you add water in premeasured portions, say 1ml per addition, until the Mescaline dissolves. So assuming you started with 60ml of 91% isopropanol, you find that after adding 27ml of dH2O dissolves all the Mescaline at boiling point - specifically, you add the last drop and the last of the crystals go into solution. You heat the mixture to a vigorous boil, add another drop of isopropanol, then carefully cover and allow it to sit. After freezing you collect 9g of crystals. You evaporate your mother liquor until crystals precipitate and repeat the procedure to collect another .9g. Just remember, each subsequent collection past the first is more and more impure - so adjust the rations properly right away.

Once you collected and weighed, you can calculate the actual proportions. (That is, you of course won't know that 60/40 is the ideal mix, only after when you see that you added with much water to your solvent etc...).

Anyway, some fairly involved procedures, but really worth it. Try it on a gram or two, you won't regret it!

Remember, if you screw up, you can just evaporate your solvents and recover your product.

RANDOM RE-CRYSTALLIZATION WISDOM:

me! (November 2006):

I 've been mentioning the use of isopropyl alcohol as a crystalization solvent for how long now? 2 years maybe?

it does work but nowhere near as reliably nor as cleanly as mek.

IPA only works marginally well with nasty sanchez.

mek will turn even greenish black slimy sanchez into clear crystal in an hour's time.

ipa is better suited as a second pass crystalization solvent.

Rhodium:

1) One good way for ensuring that your alcohol cools down nice and slow is to put some water in a pot and heat it to boiling and take it off of the heat. Then put your container with hot alcohol/dissolved crystals in the pot of water being sure not to get any water into the alcohol, cover the container, and let it cool down to room temperature. Then you can put the container with alcohol in the refridgerator to cool more. Then into the freezer to cool more. Then you can filter your pretty crystals out. Now there is usually still a little bit of product left in the alcohol, so if you boil off say 75% of the alcohol and repeat the cooling process you can get some more crystals. The slower the rate of cooling, the bigger the crystals formed.

2) The most common method of purifying solid organic compounds is by recrystallization. In this technique, an impure solid compound is dissolved in a solvent and then allowed to slowly crystallize out as the solution cools. As the compound crystallizes from the solution, the molecules of the other compounds dissolved in solution are excluded from the growing crystal lattice, giving a pure solid.

3) Crystallization of a solid is not the same as precipitation of a solid. In crystallization, there is a slow, selective formation of the crystal framework resulting in a pure compound. In precipitation, there is a rapid formation of a solid from a solution that usually produces an amorphous solid containing many trapped impurities within the solid's crystal framework. For this reason, experimental procedures that produce a solid product by precipitation always include a final recrystallization step to give the pure compound.

4) Once a suitable solvent is selected, place the impure solid in an Erlenmeyer flask and add a small volume of hot solvent to the flask. Erlenmeyer flasks are preferred over beakers for recrystallization because the conical shape of an Erlenmeyer flask decreases the amount of solvent lost to evaporation during heating, prevents the formation of a crust around the sides of the glass, and makes it easier to swirl the hot solution while dissolving the solid without splashing it out of the flask.

Keep the solution in the Erlenmeyer flask warm on a hot plate or in a water bath, and add small volumes of hot solvent to the flask until all of the solid just dissolves.

5) Sometimes the dissolved compound fails to crystallize from the solution on cooling. If this happens, crystallization can be induced by various methods. One way to induce crystallization is by scratching the inner wall of the Erlenmeyer flask with a glass stirring rod. This is believed to release very small particles of glass which act as nuclei for crystal growth. Another method of inducing crystallization is to add a small crystal of the desired compound, called a seed crystal, to the solution. Again, this seed crystal acts as a template on which the dissolved solid will begin crystallizing. If neither of these two techniques results in crystallization, the compound was probably dissolved in too much hot solvent. If you believe that you may have too much solvent for the amount of dissolved compound, reheat the solution to boiling, boil off or distill some of the solvent, and then allow the solution to cool to room temperature again to effect crystallization.

[tregar]

By the way, in answer to question #5 above:

avalo said:

Me!'s right, I was recalling his experiments and I didn't remember correctly. I'd go with Me!'s suggestion of 50 mL MEK per gram of Mescaline. I do remember reading about someone's attempt to do the MEK recrystallisation, and they just got a black solvent and water layer with no crystallisation. The problem was they didn't use enough MEK to hold all the water and impurities, so everything crashed out all together.

But iirc the MEK has to be dried before you use it. This way when you drip in the water, the MEK will be able to hold onto it. MEK is wet straight out of the can, so if you try to drip water into this, then MEK might already be saturated, so the water will just pool on the bottom.

Just a reminder, keep these safety notes in mind from Caljet666 here at mycotopia:

Caution boiling mek is definately a must. I have said this before but it can't be said enough IMO. The thermostat in most electric hotplates can cause a spark when it is turning on or off. Solder it shut and put a light dimmer switch in the power cord.

80 deg C is its boiling point, so that is how hot you want it. Use enough mek that the water in it only just dissolves the mesc while it is boiling, or you could use a little less and add dH2O dropwise until the rest dissolves, again while boiling.

The hot water will dissolve a fair bit of mesc. When you put it in the freezer it won't be able to hold near as much mesc and it will crash out, leaving a most of the crap behind.

Buchner funnels are worth there weight in gold in conjuction with vacuum. If you dont have them, at least filter in the freezer while the solution is still cold.

You could also, if you want, put the mesc in boiling anhydrous mek and add ethanol, iso or some other polar solvent dropwise until it all dissolves.

Different combinations will work against different impurities, however swim finds mek to be the best if you are going to use only 1.

Stay Safe
Peace
Caljet

*Some tips:

*An actual sparkless lab hotplate is the way to go with re-crystallizations.

*You should use a mineral oil bath or skillet/cake plate full of sand or pea gravel with or without some mineral oil mixed into it to sit on top of your lab hotplate, then position your erlenmeyer flask inside the sand or bath for even heating when heating your solvent(s) for the re-crystallization.

*Don't forget that when you boil alcohol in a flask, it needs a boiling stone or a chipped piece of porcelain in there, or as a substitue for that, you can keep your solution spinning the whole time, but remember, as soon as you stop spinning, the alcohol could "shoot out" due to there not being a boiling stone in there, this is necessary when boiling an alcohol.

*A fire extinguisher and a box of baking soda are good to have around, as well as a decent home made fume hood to use with your lab hotplate inside of it. Full set of goggles that go around your eyes, heat & chemical resistant gloves, long sleeve shirt, gas mask when gassing, etc.

*A 1000 mL sep glass sep funnel (about $60 or so) is really needed to do this process, it allows your gassed mescaline to fall and collect at the bottom, so you can drain it out in a puddle easily after 1/2 hour or so...

*It also is needed if you plan to collect with water as an alternate collection method, by adding 1/2 cup boiling hot water to the sep, then wait 15 to 30 seconds, and drain off the lower crystal clear water layer which will pick up the mescaline hcl....evaporate it off under a fan overnight, then scrape it up and clean it with acetone and a hot boiling water rinse through the cotton...then put hot water in a dish, evaporate it off, and scrape it up again.

*Lye (sodium hydroxide) needs to be pure, I wouldn't use drain openers these days, they contain additives, there may be one brand out there that works, but it sure ain't zep 10, it has aluminum. I got my lye from a soap making place a long time ago. There may be one brand out there that's ok to use though.

*muriatic hcl acid comes in jugs at around 31.45% at hardware stores and such for cleaning pools, driveways, etc.

*A 3 gallon glass carboy and stopper can be found at beer making supply houses on-line.

*A buchner funnel and vacuum aspirator for a faucet for generating a vacuum comes in handy too, worth it's weight in gold like Caljet666 saids.

I should have renamed this thread--Crystal Clear Mesc hcl--for the chemist or advanced hobbyist, not "so easy" after all.

If you want an easy tek to follow, follow the one by waylitjim or smacked12 here at the forum, or you could do a titration if you have a good ph meter. By then following one of the re-crystallization procedures in the post above (1 of 5 popular methods), you will then be able to clean up the product (should you wish) from waylitjim's or smacked12's tek: http://forums.mycotopia.net/mescalin...l-extract.html (would you eat this? i would... mesc hcl extract)

You should be able to do one of their tek's first (and be proficient at the salting steps and subsequent acetone cleaning using a funnel and cotton ball and hot water rinse of the dried cotton) before moving on to this tek.

Pleasant dreams.

[tregar]

All you really need to know for a kick ass re-crystallization to turn your yellow, tan to off-white looking sanchez into pure white to translucent mescaline:

2 passes may be needed to turn dark brown sanchez into pure translucent product, judging from White's latest experiment. He used 80% MEK, 20% ISO, water to taste. He added 10x the amount of product as solvent. 1 pass will be all that's needed to turn gassed product (as collected above in post #53 & #54) to pure white to translucent product. Even if you collect your gassed mescaline hcl with a sep funnel and hot boiling water (drain water off within 15 seconds or less), you should be able to get pure white to translucent product with 1 pass.

I dont know how to simplify it any more than this. Its easy. Put 3 grams sanchez in erlenmeyer flask with 150 mL boiling mek (a large excess of mek.) Use around 50 mL per 1 gram of sanchez. Put a boiling stone or chipped piece of porcelain in your flask too. Add water drop by drop until all the mescaline dissolves, it will go from a "cloudy" appearance to a "clear" appearance when you have added enough drops of water, this means the last of the mescaline has dissolved. You can stir it a little with a glass rod after each water drop addition to make sure it mixes in well. If your lab hotplate has a built in stirrer, then you can turn on the stirrer for a while after each addition. Then just boil down until the liquid begins to "shimmer" --- it will take on a shiny shimmering appearance. Stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours. If no crystals appear, simply boil it some more and shove it back in the freezer. Once you have crystals, simply filter them off and rinse with cold very anhydrous acetone. Let dry. Add crystals to a minimal amount of boiling hot water in a pyrex brownie dish sitting under a fan to drive off any acetone fumes...When water has evaporated, scrape up the crystals. Eat crystals. Trip balls.

Make sure you use a laboratory style hot plate with a thin skillet or cake plate of sand with or without added mineral oil added to the sand, or an aluminum cup with mineral oil bath to hold your flask...and a fume hood is a must if this is being done inside. See the pictures at the beginning of this post to see how to build an easy fumehood in under 2 hours. You can do this while you watch TV. It mounts up to an open back window. Keep a fire extinguisher on hand, baking soda, a bucket of sand, wet towel, etc. for safety reasons. Don't have any open flames anywhere, not even a pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear full protective goggles, heat resistant chemical gloves, long sleeve shirt. The powerful fans are of the brushless computer PC type, they are non-spark.

[tregar]

For really big crystals, put the flask in a pot of boiling water that has been taken off the stove and put on a mitten on a table, cover the top of the flask...the pot will take ages to cool down...this will help develop awesome crystals, then when the pot reaches room temp, put your flask in the refridgerator, then move it to the freezer overnight. In the morning you will have tons of beautiful pure white to see-thru transparent crystals depending on how clean your stuff was to start with. The gassing gives you pretty clean stuff anyways, see post #54 for typical color of post gassed product. Your MEK will be brown to gold colored...just filter off your crystals over a #101 to #103 round disc filter sitting in the buchner cup of your vacuum filter flask and rinse them with ice cold anahydrous (dried) acetone.

To make the acetone anahydrous (remove the water) bake a thin layer of epsom salts in the oven at high temp 400 degrees F. for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little, use a spatula to scrape it up. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Decant off the top layer of acetone above the rocks and filter it a few times thru a #103 filter disc on a vacuum flask before you use any. If your acetone is anahydrous you won't loose any product when you rinse the crystals.

After the crystals are rinsed dissolve them in minimal boiling hot dH2O and evap. under a fan. Then scrape up crystals when dry. This is always done after acetone rinses to remove any remaining acetone so as to leave a totally solvent free clean product.

[Myco-Iggy]

So right now swim got 2.4 of dreams from the 500 gram test.
But due to insufficient tools and glassware, probably could have
ended up with more.

Swim needs to acquire a hotplate, sep funnel, pipette, milligram scale and should get a distiller.

The hotplate and sep funnel are musts for this process though, and proper glass for boiling. Oh how swim wishes he had invested in proper flasks at first.

How ever one can improvise and produce some very very nice Xstals.
Twas swim's first true experience with mescal, and it was definantly swim's favorite.The body load was pretty heavy and probably thanks to tha ganj, swim didnt experience nausea but swim's friend had plenty.
Looking forward to many wonderful experiences.

As soon as swim can get some more money for equipment,
swim will finish the 1.5 kilos and go for some Re-Xstallizing.
Tried last night on the IPA/water but performed on only one gram.
Lack of proper equipment led to yet again another accident

Thanks again for all the knowledge, Ill report with my future attempts on cleaning.

PEACE

[tregar]

Thanks for the report Myco-Iggy.

I'll provide some pictures of how to do the re-crystallization with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone -- in the paint chemical isle) in the future perhaps.

I'll be turning off-white to tan to yellow mescaline into pure mescaline with photos of the "before" and "after" in dreams.

A distillation setup is not needed for any of this work, but a sep funnel, lab hotplate, a small erlenmeyer flask is, along with some sand, a cake plate, boiling stone. A buchner vacuum setup is good to have too to filter and rinse your crystals over when you pour the MEK through the buchner cup with round #101 to #103 filter disc.

I have had very light tan mescaline before at 300mg and less doses over a dozen times... it has no perceptable "body load" when nice & clean. Just euphoric and nice. There is no gas, no burping, etc. for the 1st 2 hour comeup either. It was so clean, I didn't even notice a "comeup". It is possible to get it clean...Yellow mescaline gives me gas and burping though for the 1st 2 hours. Brown mescaline caused nausea and weird body load for both of us, so we don't use it anymore. Very light tan to pure white or translucent mescaline is the bomb, though. Enjoyable as all get out, no bad body load. Purity does count for some sensitive people like myself & friend.

There should be zero nausea with 300mg doses and less of clean crystals, especially when 100mg dose is taken every 1/2 hour. I've never gotten even a hint of nausea when taking good clean crystals in 1/2 hour increments.

SWIM can always try an MEK re-crystallization if possible in the future in place of the iso/water re-crystallization...it gets the crystals really clean.

[tregar]

This is what a sand bath looks like on a lab hot plate, minus the flame source at the bottom--no flames allowed! ONLY a sparkless dedicated hot plate will do in a fumehood inside or outdoors. Also, an erlenmeyer flask should be used and not a beaker.

[tregar]

This is what your mescaline hcl crystlas will look like after an MEK re-crystallization...then dissolve them in a minimal amount of hot boiling hot water to drive off any lingering acetone rinse fumes and scrape them up when dry.

[badger1]

is there a way to dry the xylene containing mescaline without a vacuume filter and what is calcium chloride used for?

[scientia]

calcium chloride (and for that matter magnesium sulfate) is a dessicant (drying agent). its used to remove the water in the xylene.

without vacuum, i suppose you could just put it in an erlenmeyer flask and put calcium chloride to dry it. (its dry when the calcium chloride moves freely and doesn't clump) then decant off the xylene. you'll be losing a little product, but it shouldn't be too much.

[tregar]

You may not want to use calcium chloride to dry xylene with mescaline freebase because the calcium chloride reacts with amines to form schiff bases, not recommended.

Magnesium sulphate (dried epsom salts) is the recommended drying agent for this procedure.

Yes, you can dry xylene containing mescaline freebase without a vacuum...you simply add the dried clumps of magnesium sulfate (dried epsom salts), a handful or two to your xylene in a jar, shake it up and swirl it for a few minutes, then let it settle for an hour or two. Pour off xylene layer above the rocks through a #103 filter in a buchner flask to get it 100% clear again (free of any trace drying agent). Then it will be ready to be gassed. So in actuality, you still need a vacuum flask to filter your xylene...this will take about 10 minutes with a high vacuum applied. You will not loose much if any product as Scientia mentions.

If you don't dry your xylene, you will end up with brown mescaline, because it will have water in it, and the water that's in the xylene will react with the hcl gas to form a messy type of titration, hence your mescaline will come out no better than an ordinary extraction.

Dry your xylene and you can end up with white mescaline, see pic in post #54.

There really is no way around it, you still need a vacuum flask so the procedures flow quickly.

This is a big shopping list, You will need in order to do this procedure plus a re-crystallization:

Like I mentioned earlier, I should have re-named this thread "not so easy" instead of "easy as pie".

This is a method for the chemist or advanced hobbyist.

However, the re-crystallization method(s) posted above are immediately useful to dreamers who wan't to purify brown, yellow, or tan mescaline...takes only an hour or so, then let your flask decline to room temperature, then put in fridge, then put in freezer, then filter out the pure crystals, rinse them with acetone, then add the crystals to a small amount of hot water, allow to evaporate, then scrape up the dry crystals.

The best proven re-crystallization procedure is listed in post #57 and #58. It uses MEK and water, that's it! All safety precautions must be followed.

For example, all Myco-Iggy has to do now in dreams is follow a good re-crystallization procedure such as the one in post #57 & 58, follow all safety precautions, and will be able to turn even the dirtiest mescaline into pure sparkling product! The cleaner the product, the less the body load, the less the nausea, it is more "cerebral" and faster acting...clean mescaline is awesome mescaline! Clean mescaline in my experience and my friend's experience (and we are both very sensitive to impurities) has no nausea at all at 400mg or less when taken in 100mg increments every 1/2 hour. Some people are not effected by impurities, but many others are. With super clean mescaline I couldn't even detect a "come up" over a dozen times, just was really nice, incredible substance, it had no perceptable body load at 300mg or less.

* A buchner vacuum flask with buchner cup and #101 or #103 filter disc paper.
* A vacuum source for the above vacuum flask, be it an aspirator and faucet or a deluxe food saver or other dedicated vacuum source.
* epsom salts
* A sep funnel
* lab hot plate
* sand
* cake plate
* xylene
* acetone
* lye
* measuring cup
* jars
* MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
* boiling stone
* erlenmeyer flask
* glass carboy & stopper
* long glass pipette to siphon up xylene from carboy
* distilled water
* blender to chop up the cactus
* empty alcohol HDPE bottle for the gasser
* calcium chloride for the gasser
* muriatic acid for the gasser
* mip adapter for the gasser
* hose for the gasser
* home made fume hood
* pyrex brownie dish
* fan
* refridgerator & freezer

[scientia]

You know, for a REALLY nice recrystallization, one could probably set up a vacuum jacketed flask to do it in. Just get a 1L erlenmeyer with a stopper with a hole in it, and also a large test tube or even a plastic centrifuge tube. Dissolve your crystals in mek/h2o with boiling in the test tube/cent tube. Immediately place the vessel into the flask, stopper it and put it under vacuum, then clamp the line and disconnect the vacuum source. Wrap with foil, then with towels. Let it come to room temp over several hours, then in the fridge for several more, then in the freezer to finish up.

I bet they'd be pretty

In fact, you'd most likely end up with a single crystal if using the centrifuge tubes...i'll be finding out soon enough.

[tregar]

Sounds pretty advanced. Over my head, but sounds great!

[scientia]

well, its not really that advanced. the main thing for growing big crystals is to bring the temp down as slowly as possible. a vacuum is really the best insulator, and then the foil and the towels help too. ideally the whole thing should be done over a day or two.

kudos for the write up. how do you prep the cactus btw? dry then powder or just blend it up wet? i noticed the other prep here (with boiling the skin) tended to create a lot of viscosity. any problems with emulsions?

edit: oh, and good call on the CaCl2. i didn't even think of that.

[tregar]

oh, ok I understand now, thanks!

The 1kg of pieces of cactus are dried allready, then they are put into a blender and ground up to a fine powder.

Then the powder is put in the glass carboy with 1.5 gallons of water.

I've never had any emulsion problems...everything runs as smooth as glass.

If you ever notice any "clumping" of cactus powder together, you just stick in a metal rod and poke at it for a few minutes, and the clump will seperate and the pieces will re-distribute. I noticed one clump in the beginning, but it broke it up in a few minutes, and all went fine after that.

But I always prepare my lye water by adding 9 oz of lye to 1/2 to 1 pint of hot water very slowly with stirring...then when it's all good and mixed, I pour it into the carboy.

Then I add about 40 ounces of xylene. Then the carboy gets rolled around on carpet pieces for a few minutes, and then left to sit upright undisturbed for 2 days...then I just pull off the top xylene layer, it seperates just fine.

Procedure here: on post #32.

It would be nice if we could use CaCL as the drying agent with the phenethylamine in the xylene, I love CaCl since they are pellets and they dry stuff very nicely, but it's just not a good idea due to the reaction caused between it and amines...it may take a while for the reaction to happen, no one really knows...but just to be safe, magnesium sulphate is the drying agent used. magnesium sulphate is powdery and a little harder to use as compared to CaCL pellets, but oh well.

I was gonna do a re-crystallization with pictures this time and post them but I'm having pc problems that happened today and will need to be fixed in the interem, so it will be a few weeks before I get them up.

Good clean mescaline is really worth it, otherwise I wouldn't go through all this trouble. I've done good LSD over 200 times in the distant past, and I fine clean mescaline just as nice if done right.

in the words of me!:

mescaline is the finest psychoactive substance swim knows of... all the power of LSD but none of the freak out of shrooms... beautiful multicolored visuals surpassing either psilocin or LSD... yet it is characterised by an extreme feeling of peace and well being and connectedness to Everything That Is... swim has never heard of anyone ever having a bad trip on the stuff... never, ever, ever... it is very, very kind...

If you like chemistry, you can learn alot from this process. It's a real positive learning experience.

I'm having PC problems, so it will be several weeks before I'm back with some pics of the re-crystallization process, before and after photos, etc. I need to re-install windows, and all my shit. This will take some time. Thanks for the kind words.

[Myco-Iggy]

HERE HERE!!!

I would like to second that, LSD and Fungi are great but so far,
Mescaline seems to be the smoothest. Extremely enjoyable.
This extraction has ended with peach cream colored Xstals both pulls
and once enough is collected, ReXstallization will be attempted.
Ill see how well an extraction works using a pressure cooker at first.

This cream colored product is still damn fine and I cant wait to see how smooth as butta the clear stuff is. (We dosed ~100mg about every 10 minutes) smells like melted butter too kinda huh?



PEACE

[badger1]

Awesome Write up, u definitely the man to talk to. my cat wants to perform your extraction tek, but cant get hold of 3 gallon glass carboy the best it could do is 4, 2 liter glass jars. it will be working with 1kg dried material but is unsure of how much lye water and toluene to use per each 2liter jar (assuming that 250g will be used for each jar? your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Oh" one more question. what is calcium chloride generally used for as i am finding it a tad hard to find the stuff?

[badger1]

Awesome write up. u definetally the man to talk to. my cat is wants to perform this tek ( in hes dreams ) but needs some help first. he cant get hold of glass carboy, so he had to go with 4, 2Liter glass jars.my cat is unsure of how much lye,water ,toluene to mix up per each jar ( assuming that 250g of cactus material will be used for each jar) My cat is quite confused about the situation and wants to be in tip top shape before anything gets done. What is calcium chloride ( for the getto gasser) generally used for, as my cat is finding it a tad difficult to get hold of the stuff.
peace

[badger1]

sorry" i thought the first message didnt go through.

[AndyLandy420]

the whole gassing thing seems really unnecessary to me when the standard waylitjim acetone wash does the same thing. why bother with this?

[tregar]

Badger1, you have to order a glass carboy (2.5 to 3 gallon) from a beer making hobby supplier. They also carry the rubber stopper to fit it. You can go crazy on the lye, for a 250gram extraction, just use 4 oz of lye water each addition instead of 8 to 9oz of lye water each addition. I would start with 1kg if at all possible, and get yourself one carboy to hold everything. The glass carboys are thick as hell and I haven't had it crack in over 4 years, and I abuse the shit out of it.

Yes, good point Andy, there's really no reason to bother with the gassing...the only thing the gassing does is bring you one step closer to cleaner product, so long as you use a sep funnel that is...However, I will stick with gassing as I love the off-white to white color it comes out when you collect it following the method in post 53 & 54 with a sep funnel and vacuum filter flask to wash it with. The yellow-stained xylene washes off the white crystals really fast, as you can tell from the yellow goo-ball picture, you can see white mescaline "oozing" out of it onto the drying tray. Only gassing will give you white to off-white crystals right off the bat, but they still need to be re-crystallized to drive off solvent fumes and get it totally pure.

The picture in post #53 & #54 really IS the color it came out after I gassed and poured off the yellow goo ball, with this alternate method of collecting the crystals, the color washes off the crystals real fast and easy, within a few minutes I had white product as the pic shows...With the standard method, when you end up with brown product, it still is a lot of work to get it tan, and then when it's tan it is impossible to get it cleaner unless you do a re-crystallization. However, even though the product comes out white after it is gassed and collected, it is not done yet, you need to drive off the solvent fumes with a re-crystallization or hot water wash & evaporation & scrape up. Also as other people have reported, when you have brown product, even though you clean it with acetone, lots of it gets stuck on the top of the cotton and turns it a murky dark brown color, and lots of product get's lossed. When I cleaned up my very brown product from 3 years ago, I lost several grams to the cleaning process on the top of the cotton due to the impurities. The acetone would not clean out 50% of the serious brown color. It stayed brown and just sat on top the cotton, discoloring it. Acetone will only take you so far with cleaning...and then you can get no further...and you have to be careful, cause if your product is really dark brown, the majority of it will remain brown--it takes boiling hot MEK to remove the impurities that form inside the hcl crystal matrix as inclusions.

The gassing should be left to advanced hobbyist or chemist types...I don't recommend it for beginners at all...

However, the re-crystallization is another story, and it is pointful...the mek type of re-crystallization is brand new and was developed about a year or two ago, and it works beautifully to return product that is very clean. It is THE perfect solvent to use with mescaline hcl in the re-crystallization process. See post #57-58 for how to do this. And yes, those are pics showing what your product will look like if you use it.

Myco-Iggy, glad to hear that as your product is getting cleaner, the effects are getting better, I agree too that mescaline is more relaxing and can be really euphoric and impart a nice calm transcendental state of mind. It feels almost as if "the gods are smiling down on you". I really can't describe it in words, but I get that effect with good clean product. Good luck with your future re-crystallization. As you get it white or translucent with the re-crystallization, the odor goes away. But before that it may have a malted honey or melted butter aroma, yes. Just make sure there is no chemical odor or taste before ingestion.

D. M. Turner - Mescaline

Poet & Writer Junger wrote this after tripping balls with Dr. Hoffman multiple times, (from "LSD, my problem child"):

More light was hidden in the dark grain that burst from the ear, more yet in the green juice of the succulents on the glowing slopes of Mexico...[Translator's note: Junger is referring to LSD, a derivative of Ergot , and Mescaline , derived from the Mexican peyotyl cactus.]

I gotta go cause my PC needs serious work. Would love to see your pics myco-iggy if you do a re-crystallization one day. I'll post mine in a few weeks when my pc is fixed--I'll do a re-crystallization and take photos to show before & after and how to do the process. I'm sorry this thread is so long, but you can never have too much information or wisdom...read and re-read until you understand the process...a good sep funnel and vacuum buchner flask are imperative to have, as is a good lab hotplate if you plan to re-crystallize.

[tregar]

I'm back again, I managed to fix most of my PC problems after 10 hours of work, but I still have hours to go...

I caught a nasty ass new designer rogue virus called "antispy storm" and it sucks bigtime that did not respond to the normal ways of isolation...but after hours and hours of work managed to get my PC running again.

Look up "antispy storm" on google and you'll see what I'm talking about...it reacks absolute havock on your pc and virtually nothing works to get rid of it..you can use all the spyware you want and even run it in safe mode, still won't get rid of it, it even disables your task manager so that "crtl-alt-delete" doesn't work, instead you get a message saying that "you don't have permission to do that", it has no program name, so it imbeds itself in windows so you can find it nowhere..every 2 minutes it gives you annoying messages with pop up sounds, some of them filling your whole screen telling you "your security has been compromised, and someone is trying to steal your credit card #'s, etc., blah blah blah", it also removes your normal screensaver or background and implants it's own -- a dark screen with red letters telling you your security has been compromised, so you need to buy their piece of shit product for 49.95....$#@!% damn what a nightmare it's been. It freezers your computer every now and then and makes your pc take 20 minutes to boot up, it also makes your desktop icons disappear. But I finally fixed it only by doing a system restore to a point 2 years ago...I lost some of my software and my 2nd hard drive is not recognized, I can fix all that...it sure beats having a sick PC. That was the only thing that worked.

Here's an example of how nasty the shit is:Antispy Storm Strikes Again - Lavasoft Support Forums

I hate the fuckers that come up with shit like that to fuck up people's PC's and make them mad as hell. All because they are trying to sell a $49.95 piece of shit spyware program...but to get you to buy it...they create a new designer virus that invades your pc and is much nastier than viruses of ages past. I used to fix people's pc for years and was an expert at this shit, but much of this new crap is really dangerous and nearly impossible to get rid of. DOWN with the fat fuckers who have nothing better to do then spend their day wrecking you PC's, and making you mad as hell. All I did was get on Internet Explorer for a lousy 2 minutes the other day, and that's all the time it took for this nasty ass virus to implant itself on my PC without even clicking or doing anything to cause it. I always avoid IE due to the backdoor entry ways it has, but hit it by accident instead of my normal browser and that's when all hell broke loose. FUCK virus creating hackers...may you all rott in hell.

[Myco-Iggy]

Jesus, at least your informed and can do something about it.
Good job getting your PC back man!

[badger1]

would you suggest do waylitjims mescaline extraction followed through with a recrystallization? I just really like the idea of really clean end product

[tregar]

yes.

I followed foaf's tek, uses a single glass carboy, no freezing: Board Message

Waylitjim's tek: http://forums.mycotopia.net/misc-ent...ction-tek.html (Mescaline Extraction Tek)

Smacked 12's improved salting ratio tek (foaf makes an appearance too):
http://forums.mycotopia.net/mescalin...l-extract.html (would you eat this? i would... mesc hcl extract)

Concerning the re-crystallization:

I found a 3 quart stainless steel pet bowl about 7" in diameter and 3" tall to fill with sand to use as my "sand bath" that sits on top the lab hot plate. I also found a compact digital thermometer with 3" probe that reads from -40 degree to 450 degree F, it can be stuck in the sand to read the approximate temp. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, look in the chemical paint isle) boils at about 80 degree C, or 176 degrees. F. I may show pics in a few weeks. You can find a bag of play box sand at any big home improvement store, or get some from your local playground. You can find a fire extinguisher and a box of baking soda at many stores to keep around for safety, keep a wet towel around too. Pick up a pair of safety goggles if you don't allready have one, and a good pair of long chemical resistant gloves for safety. You will need to build my home made sparkless fume hood (see the 1st part of this thread for pictures) if doing inside near a window. Don't forget to get an erlenmeyer flask--it sits in the sand while the contents are boiling. If your hot plate does not have a stirrer, you will need a glass rod or long glass pipette to use to stir the solvent after each water droplet addition. Last but not least, don't forget to add boiling stones or a chipped piece of porcelain to your erlenmeyer flask while the contents are boiling...this must be done to prevent "bumping" so the solvent doesn't shoot out all over the place. You will need a medicine dropper or long glass pipette to use to drop the drops of water in. A buchner filter flask with #101 filter disc would be helpful to have to pour your colored MEK through to collect your clean crystals, then rinse them with anahydous "dry" acetone. Epsom salts will be needed to dry the acetone. Oven required to heat epsom salts at 400 degrees for 2 hours, fridge and freezer needed to grow a large clean crystal matrix. Isn't chemistry fun? I should have been a chemistry major. Foaf, who wrote the tek above has a degree in Chemistry by the way.

[badger1]

thanks tregar, ur awesome

[tregar]

Thanks badger1, it will be about 4 weeks before I put some pics up of the re-crystallization, so I would check back then...will have before and after photos of the mescaline and the re-crystallization process.

[tregar]

So as to not confuse anybody, I put all the steps together after you have collected your 4 xylene pulls from the carboy, and dried them of course with a few handfulls of dried epsom salts, filtered the now dry solvent thru a #103 filter on a buchner vacuum flask to get out any traces of magnesium sulphate drying agent, and then of course gassed it. Just pour the contents of each of the 4 jars into a single large glass container and dry it and then gas it. When you are done gassing don't forget to bubble air thru the large glass container for about 5 minutes with an aquarium pump connected to a pipette submerged into it...this will drive off any lingering hcl gas from the gassed solvent.

Here's a complete breakdown & overview of the process using the alternate method of collection (not by adding water to the sep funnel to collect the mescaline hcl):

1.) PHOTO 1: Gas your dry xylene jar with mescaline freebase then bubble air thru it for 5 minutes with an aquarium pump to drive off any lingering hcl gas from the solvent, then let the mescaline fall back to the bottom of the jar, takes about 15 minutes.

2.) PHOTO 2: Pour the bottom most layer of the jar or large glass container into a sep funnel, the mescaline hcl will fall to the bottom.

3.) PHOTO 3: Drain the bottom mescaline hcl layer from the sep funnel into a dish, it will be bright yellow (if you used xylene and dried it properly). It may be green. It will be brown if you did not dry your xylene...there is 1ml of water per liter of xylene that needs to be removed via solvent drying with dried epsom salts. Let the majority of the xylene evaporate off over 1/2 hour or so on the dish with a fan blowing over it...as it dries, you will see white mescaline "oozing" out of the goo ball, or as you scoot the goo ball around on the dish, it will leave streaks of white mescaline.

4.) PHOTO 4: Since we gassed our product, the yellow stained xylene washes away very easily and very quickly with acetone. Put your goo ball into a buchner cup with a #103 filter disc, wash and rinse it with acetone several times following this method:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Post Gassing Clean-up:

A] Drain off the bottom mescaline layer into a dish, it will form a "goo ball". Leave it alone for 1/2 to 1 hour under a fan to evaporate off most of the xylene.

B] Put the goo ball into a buchner cup sitting on top a buchner vacuum flask with a #103 filter disc.

C] Now disconnect the vacuum hose to break the vacuum. Then reattach it, but leave the vacuum turned off. This creates a sealed volume of air, so when you pour liquid on top of the filter paper, the trapped air will tend to keep it there instead of allowing it to drain through.

D] Now using a wash bottle, wash the powder/goo ball with acetone until it's completely covered, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then turn the vacuum on, and filter through the acetone. Now rinse the powder with more acetone as it's being sucked through. This soaking and washing will remove the vast majority of the xylene. Rinse it at least 3 times with acetone. Since the product was gassed, the yellow stained xylene washes away from the mescaline easily and quickly.

E] Cover the filter funnel with a large oversized piece of filter paper, and suck air through the funnel for a couple of minutes, this will help dry the powder and protect it from dust.

F] Now remove the filter funnel and allow the white powder to completely dry.

Once dry, the now off-white to white power will flake off the filter paper, so you won't get mushy paper fibres in with your product. The product will be white if you dried your xylene carefully earlier on before it was gassed, but it's still not done yet--the white mescaline has trapped solvent fumes/residue on it that must be "driven" off by adding it to boiling hot water and letting the fumes evaporate off....or you can do a re-crystallization on it now, then add the re-crystallized product to a minimal amount of hot distilled water and evaporate off the water, then scape up your perfectly clean & pure white to translucent mescaline hcl.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

5.) Last photo: You will be left with a wet mat of white mescaline, plop it off into a drying dish, and as the last bit of acetone evaporates from the drying dish, it will leave a layer of white mescaline on your dish, just scrape it up.

6.) The white mescaline will contain solvent fumes and have a chemical smell and taste...it is now necessary to either add it to a minimal amount of boiling hot water to drive off solvent fumes...put it into the drying dish with a fan blowing over it, then scrape up the mescaline in the morning...taste it and smell it, it will have no chemical residue or smell if done properly...what I prefer to do is re-crystallize it with boiling hot MEK after I have scraped up the white mescaline from the dish....THEN after the re-crystallization is done, I add it to a minimal amount of boiling hot water to drive off solvent fumes and scrape it up in the morning.

HOW TO RE-CRYSTALLIZE:

EXPLANATION:

The MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) thing is a dual solvent recrystallization: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and MEK, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the Mescaline is. That's why the Mescaline will drop out first.

This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your Mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to Mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the Mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the Mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.

After getting the Mescaline powder to dissolve, you boil the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the Mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the Mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.

THE PROCESS:

All you really need to know for a kick ass re-crystallization to turn your yellow, tan to off-white looking sanchez into pure white to translucent mescaline:

2 passes may be needed to turn dark brown sanchez into pure translucent product, judging from White's latest experiment. He used 80% MEK, 20% ISO, water to taste. He added 10x the amount of product as solvent. 1 pass will be all that's needed to turn gassed product (as collected above in post #53 & #54) to pure white to translucent product. Even if you collect your gassed Mescaline hcl with a sep funnel and hot boiling water (drain water off within 15 seconds or less), you should be able to get pure white to translucent product with 1 pass.

I dont know how to simplify it any more than this. Its easy. Put 3 grams sanchez in erlenmeyer flask with 150 mL boiling mek (a large excess of mek.) Use around 50 mL per 1 gram of sanchez. Put a boiling stone or chipped piece of porcelain in your flask too. Add water drop by drop until all the Mescaline dissolves, it will go from a "cloudy" appearance to a "clear" appearance when you have added enough drops of water, this means the last of the Mescaline has dissolved. You can stir it a little with a glass rod after each water drop addition to make sure it mixes in well. If your lab hotplate has a built in stirrer, then you can turn on the stirrer for a while after each addition. Then just boil down until the liquid begins to "shimmer" --- it will take on a shiny shimmering appearance. Stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours. If no crystals appear, simply boil it some more and shove it back in the freezer. Once you have crystals, simply filter them off and rinse with cold very anhydrous acetone. Let dry. Add crystals to a minimal amount of boiling hot water in a pyrex brownie dish sitting under a fan to drive off any acetone fumes...When water has evaporated, scrape up the crystals. Eat crystals. Trip balls.

Make sure you use a laboratory style hot plate with a thin skillet or cake plate of sand with or without added mineral oil added to the sand, or an aluminum cup with mineral oil bath to hold your flask...and a fume hood is a must if this is being done inside. See the pictures at the beginning of this post to see how to build an easy fumehood in under 2 hours. You can do this while you watch TV. It mounts up to an open back window. Keep a fire extinguisher on hand, baking soda, a bucket of sand, wet towel, etc. for safety reasons. Don't have any open flames anywhere, not even a pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear full protective goggles, heat resistant chemical gloves, long sleeve shirt. The powerful fans are of the brushless computer PC type, they are non-spark.

For really big crystals, put the flask in a pot of boiling water that has been taken off the stove and put on a mitten on a table, cover the top of the flask...the pot will take ages to cool down...this will help develop awesome crystals, then when the pot reaches room temp, put your flask in the refridgerator, then move it to the freezer overnight. In the morning you will have tons of beautiful pure white to see-thru transparent crystals depending on how clean your stuff was to start with. The gassing gives you pretty clean stuff anyways, see post #54 for typical color of post gassed product. Your MEK will be brown to gold colored...just filter off your crystals over a #101 to #103 round disc filter sitting in the buchner cup of your vacuum filter flask and rinse them with ice cold anahydrous (dried) acetone.

To make the acetone anahydrous (remove the water) bake a thin layer of epsom salts in the oven at high temp 400 degrees F. for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little, use a spatula to scrape it up. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Decant off the top layer of acetone above the rocks and filter it a few times thru a #103 filter disc on a vacuum flask before you use any. If your acetone is anahydrous you won't loose any product when you rinse the crystals.

After the crystals are rinsed dissolve them in minimal boiling hot dH2O and evap. under a fan. Then scrape up crystals when dry. This is always done after acetone rinses to remove any remaining acetone so as to leave a totally solvent free clean product.

Concerning the re-crystallization:

I found a 3 quart stainless steel pet bowl about 7" in diameter and 3" tall to fill with sand to use as my "sand bath" that sits on top the lab hot plate. I also found a compact digital thermometer with 3" probe that reads from -40 degree to 450 degree F, it can be stuck in the sand to read the approximate temp. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, look in the chemical paint isle) boils at about 80 degree C, or 176 degrees. F. I may show pics in a few weeks. You can find a bag of play box sand at any big home improvement store, or get some from your local playground. You can find a fire extinguisher and a box of baking soda at many stores to keep around for safety, keep a wet towel around too. Pick up a pair of safety goggles if you don't allready have one, and a good pair of long chemical resistant gloves for safety. You will need to build my home made sparkless fume hood (see the 1st part of this thread for pictures) if doing inside near a window. Don't forget to get an erlenmeyer flask--it sits in the sand while the contents are boiling. If your hot plate does not have a stirrer, you will need a glass rod or long glass pipette to use to stir the solvent after each water droplet addition. Last but not least, don't forget to add boiling stones or a chipped piece of porcelain to your erlenmeyer flask while the contents are boiling...this must be done to prevent "bumping" so the solvent doesn't shoot out all over the place. You will need a medicine dropper or long glass pipette to use to drop the drops of water in. A buchner filter flask with #101 filter disc would be helpful to have to pour your colored MEK through to collect your clean crystals, then rinse them with anahydous "dry" acetone. Epsom salts will be needed to dry the acetone. Oven required to heat epsom salts at 400 degrees for 2 hours, fridge and freezer needed to grow a large clean crystal matrix.

Pictures to follow in about 4 weeks of the re-crystallization process with before and after photos of the mescaline hcl, this should make it easier for you to follow and understand, I'll re-crystallize different shades in dreams so you can see how they turn out with just 1 pass. Very brown mescaline may require 2 passes to get it translucent.

Good books on mescaline & lab procedures:

The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual by James W. Zubrick.
The Doors of Perception by Aldous Huxley.
Moksha by Aldous Huxley.
Psychedelics Encyclopedia by Peter Stafford pages 102-155.
Pharmacotheon, Entheogenic drugs, their plant sources & history by Jonathan Ott.
The Peyote Story by Bernard Roseman.
Mescal & Mecahnisms of Hallucinations by Heinrich Kluver.
LSD, my problem child by Albert Hofmann, Ph.D.
Phantastica by Louis Lewin, M.D.
The Varieties of Psychedelic Experience by Robert Masters, Ph.D. and Jean Houston, Ph.D.
Peyote by Edward Anderson.
Peyote and other Psychoactive Cacti by Adam Gottlieb.
Trout's Notes on San Pedro Cactus, Sacred Cacti 3rd Edition.

[tregar]

Shroomojo trader said:

Just do tregars handheld gassing tek next time. I was kinda iffy about gassing with ME!'s setup but once i tried tregars super easy method i got pure white crystals, no need for acetone washing or any other bullshit!

Yes, the gasser can give you pure white crystals (see pic above on far right) but they still need to be cleaned. If you smell and taste the white product it will have a xylene taste and smell similar to "dirty socks" this is due to the solvent residue, that's why further cleaning is mandatory. Wash with acetone and rinse at least 3 times with acetone, then re-dissolve in some boiling hot distilled water to drive off any solvent fumes, then evaporate down to the crystals which are then scraped up.

Best thing to do is a re-crystallization after you collect your gassed white product seen above. Even Litmus did this on his suphate crystals, see the deep knowlege vaults here on cactus. Then after the MEK recrystallization is done, add white to translucent crystals to a miminal amount of hot boiling hot water to drive off any lingering solvent fumes, evaporate off the water, then scrape up the clean crystals. Still a few weeks away from the re-crystallization. Waiting for funds to buy an important piece of equipment.

Foaf's simple mescaline extraction (from the vaults here):
http://forums.mycotopia.net/mescalin...xtraction.html (foaf's simple mescaline extraction)

Checkout sulphate tek by litmus, notice he does a re-crystallization to get translucent crystals, it is also possible to get translucent hcl crystals by re-crystallizing the white hcl gassed product seen above.
http://forums.mycotopia.net/mescalin...need-help.html

[L-Dopa]

tregar, I've followed your posts on a variety of subjects and continue to be impressed with your intensity to detail. I definitely think you're the most interesting poster on any of the forums I've read.

I really enjoyed your previous posts relating to LSA, and this one is no different. IMO, I think your writing is getting more organized and clearer to read. Great job.

I hope you keep up the good work and continue to provide references for the information you relate. Some real research is evident and your posts are informative and entertaining.

When you say you're "waiting for funds to buy an important piece of equipment", keep in mind that what's often short changed in these discussions is an awareness of analytical chemistry, and the end game often comes down to some attempt at analytical characterization. Add that aspect to your posts (e.g. beyond pictures), and I think you'd be writing some of the best stuff posted on forums, now or at any time in the past.

[tregar]

Thanks L-Dopa.

The last 200mg dose my friend and I took in dreams had us laughing uncontrollably (2 hours after taking the dose) at practically everything on a movie and the following tv shows that was the slightest bit funny, very therapeutic. It was essentially telling us not to take life so seriously, that it's ok to laugh for hours on end...very similar to the laughing fits that we've encountered in the past on acid, only this had us laughing even longer. Low doses can be therapuetic and fun. At other times I've enjoyed just listening to music and zoning out on the pretty colors, and enjoying the subtle euphoria, incredible meditative state...you never know what's gonna happen sometimes. The book "Lysergic" has a story about some people who took mescaline and laughed for hours too, "mescaline makes you laugh alot" is a quote from someone in the chapter on mescaline. In the book "Mysticism, sacred & profane" Professor R.C. Zaehner took 400mg of mescaline and laughed after every question the investigators (trip sitters) asked him, everything was just so damn funny. Laughter can be powerful medicine, mescaline seems to know what you need and when you need it. Mescaline is indeed powerful healing sacred medicine.

[Gringo Biloba]

Tregar, I've got another way for you around the HCl gas when crystalizing. Use Tartaric acid instead of HCl. It can be obtained from wine making supplies/u-brew type stores. It's a white crystaline solid and extremely easy to handle.
Next time you're at the end of your extraction and you have your dried solvent containing mescaline freebase, slowly, while stiring, start adding Tartaric acid and monitoring the pH. Keep adding until you get to 6.9 and then stop. Let the solution/suspension sit overnight in a refrigerator. Next day filter off your Mescaline.bitartrate crystals.
Hope you find this useful.

[tregar]

Thanks Gringo, I've got some 99.9% DL racemic tartaric acid in a container here that I got a few years ago from a wine making supplier, thanks for the tip on the tartaric salt, that's a first, never heard of mescaline tartrate before!

I know some people have had problems with trying to make the citrate of mescaline before, didn't come out too well...but I might be willing to try the tartrate if you think anyone has ever done it before.

I used that when working with LSA and friends as tartrate is the preferred salt for those agents.

[Gringo Biloba]

I imagine the citrate would be very hygroscopic and even if you managed to filter out some crystals, they would eventualy turn to puddles.
The tarate is quite common with various amphetamines and is actually used in the industry for racemic resolution (of isomers). It should work quite well.

[tregar]

Ahhh, thanks...sounds doable.

Very little on this, google only pulls up 2 listings for "mescaline tartrate" but here is one short thread on it from the nook: Board Message

Interesting.

[swine]

super sexy thread we have here.
wow, cant believe ive never heard of adding an acid thats solid. even tho ive considered using citric acid for safety in the past, i always figured id dissolve it first. i suppose thatd be fine as well, however im still worried about having acid in the precipitate. if i try this i better get a better electronic ph meter, mine sucks.
heres an old correspondence with me about HCl(g) via CaCl2/HCl(aq).

Having never tried generating gas with HCl/CaCl2, I can't speak to its dryness... but what has been found is that natural mescaline is very highly sensitive to moisture in the gas... much more so than meth or pseudo for reasons that remain obscure... one can't go wrong in having multiple driers in the system. What happens when the gas isn't 100% anhydrous is that the mescaline precipitates in particles too small to be captured with any sort of mechanical filter. It isn't the end of the world, as one can still collect the drug with water, but it is something of a pain in the ass having to wait for the water to evaporate...

HOWEVER, i dont think hcl/cacl2 hcl gas is very wet at all...i remember reading at the hive that it should be very dry.
------
now, *important* safety note:
when using a respirator one must use the correct cartridge. the cartridges shown on tregars mask are 3M 6001 Organic vapor carts. hcl is inorganic, and hence that mask will not filter hcl and could trap hcl in the enviroment inside the mask. get the yellow 6003 cartridge.

[tregar]

Thanks swine. Yes, it is extremely dry, that's how I'm able to get white product so long as the xylene containing mescaline freebase is dried properly with dry epson salts (400 degrees F in the oven for 2 hours) Yes, the old hive is where this technique originated. The gas is not wet at all, it is very dry. I remember reading that gas derived from the use of aluminum foil and hcl would be quite wet though, and potentially dangerous process.

The pic I took does not show the two additional filter pieces that clip onto each of the sides, as I noticed later on that I forgot to show that. Stick with the best cartridge you can get that is guaranteed to fiter hcl gas as swine states. I own two different gas masks.

RE-CRYSTALLIZATION:

The re-crystallization can be used by anyone to turn even dirty sanchez or brown looking mescaline into crystal clear product.

Re-crystallization in a couple weeks, it's being done on a water bath, using a hotplate stirrer and a buret clamp fastened to a ring stand to hold the 250ml erlenmeyer flask in the water bath. Do not let the erlenmeyer flask containing the 150 ml of pre-dried MEK and the 3 grams of mescaline touch the bottom of the hotplate, it needs to be suspended in the water so it is not touching the bottom. Don't worry, the stir bar will still spin, as the magnetic pull from the hotplate/stirrer still works with the flask suspended up to 1" above the bottom. The water bath needs to come up to the level of the mek in the flask, or slightly below. Add boiling stones to the MEK in the flask. The water bath maintains a constant temp of 210 degrees, even at the lowest setting on the hotplate, the liquid dry mek inside the flask is maintained at a constant 192 degrees, mek boils at 176 degrees, it is slightly over the boiling temp, no big deal, this just means it boils away a little bit faster than normal. The bowl holding the water bath is a stainless steel mixing bowl, it sits on the hotplate/stirrer.

The hotplate has a built in stirrer, this is used to stir the mek after each addition of water dropplet, the water dropplets are added until the MEK goes from "cloudy" appearance to a "clear appearance". When the clear appearance is noted, no more water dropplets are to be added. Then just boil down the MEK until it starts to "shimmy", then take it off the hotplate and put it in the freezer, if crystals start to form after 2 hours, you have done well, if not, put it back on the hoplate and boil it down further, then put it back in the freezer and see if crystals start to form after 2 hours...

As the pure crystal matrix grows, the impurites are excluded from the growing crystal matrix. As the impurities are left behind they turn the MEK a brown or golden color. Filter out the pure cystals in a vacuum buchner cup over a #103 or #101 filter disc to catch them on top. Then rinse them with acetone. Then dissolve the crystals in a minimal amount of boiling hot distilled water, evaporate off the water and recover ultra-pure clean crystalline mesc. hcl.

The re-crystallization applies to all forms of mescaline, not just the mescaline derived from this tek...though this tek just gets you one step closer to white/translucent pure mescaline hcl. So I may start a new thread on how to do the re-crystallization.

Materials list:

* Ring stand
* Stainless steel mixing bowl to hold the water bath on the hotplate/stirrer
* Buret clamp (should have rubber jaws to hold grip on the flask, I don't like metal touching glass, or you can wrap plumbers tape around the jaws or the neck of the flask.) It's easy to find buret clamps with rubber coated jaws for about $7.
* 125 to 250 ML erlenmeyer flask
* distilled water and pipette to "dropper the drops of water in"
* 150 ML of pre-dried MEK (dry the mek in the can with dried epsom salts, decant off the top portion of the MEK above the rocks and then filter it thru a #103 filter disc)
* 3 grams of non-pure or dirty mescaline
* boiling stones (alumina or teflon typical boiling stones)
* hotplate with built in magnetic stirrer
* stir bar
* home made fume hood
* open back window
* electronic temperature probe/thermometer (about $12 from dept store, kitchen section), not necessary but handy to measure temp of the water bath.
* fridge and freezer - allow the slow growth of large crystals, move your post-boiled MEK to room temp, then to fridge, then to freezer overnight for the best largest crystal growth.
* fire extinguisher (for safety reasons on standby, can never be too safe)
* sand/wet towel (on standby for safety reasons, can never be too safe)
* safety goggles and gloves
* remember no open flames, no lit pilot lights, no smoking.

[tregar]

Re-crystallization continued...

1) Buret clamp with rubber coated jaws for suspending an erlenmeyer flask in the water bath.

2) Shown in second pic: hotplate/stirrer, stainless steel bowl, erlenmeyer flask, fire extinguisher.... not shown yet: buret clamp suspending the flask in the water about 1/2" to 1" above the bottom. You should not let the flask touch the bottom of the hotplate as shown in the pic.

The flask shouldn't be touching the bottom of the bowl. It does matter, because if it is touching, then the bottom of the flask will heat up hotter then the rest of the flask. This creates a heat gradient which stresses the glass, it's not as bad as just plucking it on a hot plate, but it's not good for it, and it's more likely to bump. Bumping is when the bottom of the liquid heats up hotter then the top, and then it super boils spraying stuff all over. Constant stirring, or boiling stones help stop this, but bumping is minimized by using a water or oil bath, rather then putting it on the heating element.

[tregar]

Water bath with buret clamp (has rubber coated jaws $5), octagonal stir bar $4, 250ml erlenmeyer flask $6, stainless steel mixing bowl $5, ring stand that sits underneath the hotplate/stirrer. Flask is suspended in the water bath so the bottom of flask does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Water in the bath will come up to the liquid level of the 150ml MEK & 3 grams mescaline hcl in the flask. I could also use a 125 ML smaller erlenmeyer flask to hold the 150ml of MEK, will experiment to see which flask is better. Bottle of alumina boiling stones $12 (add 10 to 15 stones to the liquid in the flask).

[tregar]

I was finally getting ready to do the re-crystallization of my mescaline hcl using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, from the paint section) when my electronic scale broke, it completely lost power, it's not the adapter, it's putting out volts, but something inside the scale. I will have to fix it or order another one, that's the only reason my re-crystallization has not been started yet. I am finally getting some privacy to carry out the dream research but then the scale broke, so I am set back once again by about a week or so. I also don't have alot of leftover money to blow on a scale after bills, etc. I allready had to buy a hotplate/stirrer and other stuff you see above.

I need to be able to weight out 3 grams of mescaline hcl to put into the flask. I'm going to go ahead and use the 125 ml flask instead of the 250 ml flask.

I also want to be able to weight the resulting end re-crystallized product so I can compare beginning to ending weights.

Maybe someone will beat me to it, but please be patient, as soon as I get another scale, I will begin and post my results. I will be re-crystallizing mescaline of various shades from different extractions that I've saved up.

The super-dry gassing shown in this thread got me the closest to white mescaline. All of the past extractions using the typical foaf's tek have yielded brown mescaline .

I am extremely impressed with the quality of the mescaline from the gassing ....only 200mg for both of us had us laughing hard for hours, it was more potent than any of my past dozen or so mescaline hcl trips I've had in the past, and I don't quite understand why. I wonder if "density/compactness of the crystal matrix" has anything to do with it...hmmm.....that's something me! once speculated.

I also accidentaly discovered how to seperate the other "sedating alkaloids" from the mescaline hcl by using a simple micron filter.

The stuff that had us laughing for hours was the "total alkaloid" (ie, sedating + pure mescaline) from the trichocereus macrogonus:

This is a short trip report when my wife and I took 200mg of off-white Mescaline hcl produced by gassing with a handheld hcl gasser. It was then acetone cleaned and added to boiling hot water to drive off any remaining acetone residue. The clean mescaline was then scraped up from the dish after the hot water evaporated off. Very close to pure. A re-crystallization will be done on the stuff in the future to get it as pure as possible, to further increase potency.

We have never had a trip this potent with only 200mg. We watched the movie "election" with Matthew Broderick that just happened to come on tv, then we watched the movie "waiting" that happened to come on after it. Both movies are funny while sober.

But while under the influence of a small dose of this mescaline, the movies were overwhelmingly funny...after the initial 2 hour come up, we then both had un-controllable laughter for hours and hours, even after both movies were over, we were still laughing at just about anything on tv. We both had tears coming out of our eyes from laughing so hard. It was loads of fun....I've taken over a dozen trips on 200 to 300mg of tan Mescaline, but this trip just blew both of us away with it's insane potency at 200mg. Equal to 1 and a quarter hit of *very good acid*. We had never gotten laughing fits from mescaline ever before this time.

Mescaline is always enjoyable, fun & spiritual....but this was just so much fun we had laughing fits for hours, the same kind of laughing fit you get on good acid at low doses. Don't underestimate the power of cleaned up Mescaline, or nearly pure mescaline. Incredible substance, overwhelmingly positive & upbeat emotional state the entire time.

I might add that this was the "full-spectrum" gassed alkaloid product, with none of the sedating cactus alkaloids removed. These can be seperated out, I will explain later. But essentially the sedating alkaloids will fall thru and collect back in solution, while for the most part, the mescaline will collect and "stay with its own" on top the #103 filter. My wife and I both sampled the "sedating alkaloids" twice at doses of around 300mg, and they are indeed very very sedating...and have none of the same effects as mescaline.

My friend persona commented (concerning the re-crystallization process and why it's a good thing to do it):

The impurities within extracted cactus definitely can have a negative effect on the trip.

Having assayed both, I can say this from experience, as well as from a theoretical standpoint.

While it is true that losses will be greater purifying your product, the end result is a product that is cleaner, healthier, and overall more enjoyable.

I'd rather eat a little bit of black caviar than a lot of salmon caviar.

The losses from purification, if done properly, should be no more than 10-15%. Well worth it.

Edit: Oh yeah, and increasing the purity of a substance may or may not increase potency, depending on the impurities present. In this case, I would say that there is a but small increase in potency per fixed amount of weight - but that tiny increase is in part due the negation of the effects of the other alkaloids, so while quantitatively the increase was very small, qualitatively the increase was large.

I think tregar's post is an excellent affirmation of this.

Of course, he is one lucky person to get effects off such small doses. I think I could do full public appearance on any dose up to 400mg. Above that, I begin to get "real" effects.

200mg... I don't think I'd get much of anything on that. I wish I did though, mescaline is so damn impotent compared to other psychedelics.

I don't know if the "gassing" had anything to do with it, but when I gassed it, it caught all sorts of other alkaloids as well.

I ended up with a several gram pile of stuff that fell thru the #103 2.5 micron filter -- these were the sedating alkaloids, my wife and I tried then twice, both times they caused us to feel very sleepy, we were begging for a pillow even at 7pm, they are very very downing.

The stuff on top the filter was the pure mescaline.

The stuff that made us all giggly was the full spectrum stuff that was collected with water after the gassing--it contained both the mescaline and the other alkaloids that were sedating, I don't know if that had anything to do with why we got the laughing fits or not, but it sure was powerful, neither of us have ever had a low dose mescaline trip hit us that hard, it was a 2 hour comeup, then smooth sailing from there, that's when we were trip trip tripping big time off just 200mg.

I still have a big pile of the sedating alkaloids from the tricho macrogonus....see my gassing thread, it's easy to seperate them out if you want, but I seem to like the full alkaloid effect so far...it surely seems potent in the brain dept.

Imagine my disappointment when I ended up with over 3 grams of sedating alkaloids rather than mescaline--I took 300mg of the stuff that "fell through the filters" literally, and all it caused was extreme sedation, similar to a sleeping pill, has none of the euphoria, stimulation, of mescaline.

I then purposely took more of it and gave some to my wife twice, and again same thing...it acted as a sleeping pill, and there is quite a bit of this stuff in the trico. macrogonus anyways.

So you can have it two ways, you can take the full spectrum alkaloid or you seperate the sedating alkaloids from the pure mescaline and take only the pure mescaline, you can have your cake and eat it too basically.

From page 65 of Trout's Notes on San Pedro, 2005:

Trichocereus macrogonus -- Reported Analysis:

10-50 mg of total alkaloid per 100 gm. fresh;
Mescaline (MS, IR) (Over 50% of total alkaloid)
3.4 Dimethoxyphenethylamine (MS) (1-10% of total)
3-Methoxytyramine (MS) (1-10% of total alkaloid).
Tyramine (MS) (1-10% of total alkaloid)

I don't really want to call it pellotine, whichever one of those things above is sedating, then that's what it is....Which one could it be?

By the way, I gave this stuff to my wife twice by accident, thinking it was mescaline, and it made her extremely drowsy, she wanted to lay down and go to sleep the rest of the night as well--it is not stimulating at all, and has no euphoric qualities as mescaline does.

I took it twice myself, and my wife wanted to kick my ass for giving it to her--she complained for days about how tired it made her--and all I could say was "I don't know what happened! This wasn't supposed to happen!". I gave her and me both the pure sedating stuff that fell through the filters, thinking it was also mescaline (like the stuff that's ON TOP the filters--it IS mescaline), but the stuff that fell through is most assuredly not mescaline. It is good only as a sleeping pill imho, perhaps it plays some role when taken with mescaline to potentiate it -- nature often mixes uppers with downers--take kratom for example or poppy pods, have mix of upping stuff with downing stuff.

The 200mg each that we took in this trip report came from the 3rd and 4rth pulls, they were gassed of course, but then were collected directly via a water pull...no filtering or anything like that on the 3rd and 4rth pulls, so it got all the alkaloids, full-spectrum in other words.

This all sort of opens up a can of worms...so many questions become apparent:

1) Does gassing collect additional alkaloids that a typical a/b extract does not?

2) Why did 200mg have such a profound effect? Was it the extra downing alkaloids in the mix? Was it something else?

3) If somebody else builds the handheld gasser (and I promise it is NOT dangerous when used properly) maybe they can confirm my findings...you will also need a vacuum buchner setup and #103 filter discs (2.5 micron)...just gas your xylen, then filter it thru the disc...the mescaline will collect on top and the other alkaloids should fall on through the disc and collect back in a vacant jar. Then just extract that xylene jar with water to collect the "downing alkaloids". Now you will have two piles, mescaline in one, and downing alkaloids in the other. Combine them in the appropriate ratio, then trip....then compare to just the pure mescaline pile....which is more potent? Are there any subjective differences?

4) Free Spirit gets excellent results from the syrup....is it indeed possible to gas the xylene and end up with all the same alkaloids that are in the syrup? who knows until more people experiment...maybe, maybe not.

5) Lets take the pile on top the filter (the pure mescaline) and play with it and dose it several times--is it more potent?

6) One day we will need to NMR this stuff.

7) One thing we know for sure, is that my wife and I had a hell of a fun time with the mescaline, it was just as good as *good acid* from the effects we got, couldn't be happier...even the music tripped us out at this low dose...it sounded great....I've experienced laughing fits from good acid several times usually with at least a couple hits, and when it occurs, it is a thing of beauty not to be missed, entertainment for hours. Never have I had it happen with mescaline, but this stuff just hit really strong, we could tell by the way it came on, then transformed into this beautiful lucid laughing trip 2 hours after dropping.

I labeled it "pellotine" cause that's what Dr. Heffter named the downing alkaloids in peyote he sampled. There are 2 or 3 I think though, all with similar names.

QUOTE

In Heffter's experiments pellotine was found to be physiologically feeble, one-thirteenth grain (0.005 Gm.) causing only temporary stiffness in the legs of the frog, two-thirteenths grain (0.01 Gm.) producing stiffness, heightened reflexes, strychnine-like tetanus, lasting from three to four days, ending in recovery. In man, from seven-tenths to nine-tenths of a grain (0.045-0.058 Gm.) produced only temporary sleeplessness with sense of weariness. Pilcz (W. K. W., ix, 1896) has used pellotine as a calmative in fifty-eight cases of insanity in doses of from one-third to one grain (0.021-0.065 Gm.). About half the cases were markedly affected, sleep coming on in from half an hour to an hour and a half after the hypodermic injection and continuing through the night. No disagreeable results and no collapse occurred, although Langstein is said to have seen collapse following the dose of seven-tenths of a grain (0.045 Gm.).

http://www.heffter.org/review/Review2/chap2.pdf (lots of info on the sedating alkaloids here, first few pages)

200 to 300mg of this stuff will knock you on your ass no problem, it will put you to sleep and keep you asleep imho. A pillow is your best friend if you take it.

#103 (2.5 micron) filter discs can be found on ebay.
Vacuum filter buchner funnel and cup can be found on ebay too, I used a deluxe food saver to generate the vacuum, used the vacuum "port" hole on the food saver, it comes with a hose, you just wrap a little plumbers tape around the hose so it mates to the tube coming off the buchner filter flask, and you have a strong vacuum at the touch of a button, or can use a faucet and aspirator. The mescaline tends to "keep to its own" as persona pointed out to me, that's why the crystals stay together on top the filter.

Clean the mescaline on top the filter with acetone at least 3 times, rinse it with lots of acetone, dry the acetone beforehand to reduce loss, then drive off the acetone fumes by adding the resulting white powder to some hot water, let water evaporate, then scrape up the mescaline from the pyrex dish when dry. Perform a re-crystallization if you are adventurous and want it really pure (my next project in the works).

For the stuff below the filter that collected back into the xylene, just pour the jar into a sep funnel, you will see the "other alkaloids" collect together in a pile at the bottom of the sep funnel, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of boiling hot water to the sep funnel, the alkaloids will collect in the water immediately, then drain off the bottom water layer quickly within 15 seconds or less to get it as clean as possible, then take the water and evaporate it off, recover the alkaloids, they will be pretty close to white or transparent looking on the pyrex, scrape them up and clean them with acetone/mortar & pestal/cotton in a funnel/rinse cotton with hot water, evaporate off the hot water to recover alkaloids when dry. My "other alkaloids" looked like ice shards, very transparent looking when on the pyrex dish before you scrape them up. When I first did this, I mistakenly though it was mescaline, sampled 200mg of it the first time, made me tired as hell, then took 300mg a second time, made me even more tired, wife had to prod me over and over to try to keep me awake while we watched a movie, but it did not work, I got really upset when she didn't allow me to sleep, all I wanted to do was sleep, I kept dozing out over and over, finally I just went to bed. Then wife sampled the material at two different doses, made her tired as hell too at 7pm, doesn't matter what time you take it, you will want to pass out. This ate up all of several weeks, two different doses, two different people, one week apart dosing for both people. After 4 trials, I get upset because I can't figure out why the "mescaline didn't work at all", wife gets upset and wants to kick my ass for giving her "supposed mescaline" but she knew better too, it was definately not mescaline, we both get upset cause all this work, no results, so I go to the forum, and then we figure out what happened. The entire time we were only taking the stuff that fell thru the filter. We both then take the "real mescaline" a week later and all is good again.

Sample pile 1 (mescaline) by itself on one day, then sample pile 2 by itself on another day...we found all the stuff that fell thru the filter to be heavily sedating, it hits pretty hard after about 1 to 2 hours, have pillow on standby.

Add pile 1 (mescaline on top the filter alkaloids) to pile 2 (misc. alkaloids that fell thru the filter) to get full-alkaloid spectrum material.

I extracted 1kg of trico. macrogonus...

If you end up filtering the gassed xylene from pulls 1, 2, 3, and 4, you should end up with approximately 2 to 3 grams of "other sedating alkaloids", using tricho. macrogonus leaving around 9 grams on top the filter overall of "pure mescaline".

I only filtered pulls 1 and 2 which gave me 1.5 grams of "other alkaloids" below the filter. With 4.5 grams on top of mescaline.

The pulls 3 and 4 were collected directly with water, there was no filtering, so they were full spectrum, this was the "giggly material" we sampled at 200mg each, and it hit hard & strong for some reason, we have never experienced anything quite like it before at such a low dose....still a little bit of a mystery. Keep in mind that not many people have experimented with gassed material either...still in its infancy. I refer to our trip as "laughing gas mescaline" It felt funny during the come up, for the 1st 2 hours, as if we knew that it was gonna be strong...we were not prepared for the somewhat strong come up, then at 2 hours, it was all but heavenly, smooth sailing for the next many many hours till 2am, utter bliss.

By the way, my wife got tired taking only 80mg of this "other alkaloid" material all by itself...she did not fall asleep on 80mg, but she stated she wanted to take a nap, she got really drowsy around 7pm after taking it at 5:30pm, I only took 200mg and 300mg of it, made me very tired after 1 to 2 hours. I tried to fight it, I really did, but you just can't win...it would make a great sleeping pill. Dr. Heffter talks at length about the sleepy effects from some alkaloids that were seperated from peyote in the paper I linked to earlier at Heffter Research Institute.

I collected pulls 1 and 2 differently from pulls 3 and 4 for the sake of science to experiment with different methods of collection.

It really wasn't worth doing a 5th pull, it only returned a very small pile of material, about 3/4 of a gram.

I know this is bound to be highly controversial, I'm just stating our experience with it, as I do know that no one here has actually used #103 filter disc to filter gassed product except myself so far...me! did not use these discs as he wanted to use materials that were available to everyone, such as coffee filters, sep funnel only, etc. Others will have to experiment with this process to confirm my findings. It was not my intention to "open up a can of worms", but it is what it is.

Anyways, I just wanted to mention my findings concerning the "other alkaloids" I discovered in trico. macrogonus. Don't let anybody tell you that there is "just mescaline" in these cactus...there is a pretty nice little percentage of other alkaloids as well. Somebody should try this process with bridgesii to seperate the other alkaloids out.

My personal scientific discovery was that 1kg of trichocereus macrogonus cactus contained 1 part "sedating alkaloids" to 3 parts "pure mescaline". The "other sedating alkaloids" can be easily seperated out using a #103 (2.5 micron) filter disc. Just combine both piles together to get the "full effect", or you can just take 1 part sedating alkaloids to 3 parts pure mescaline to get the same full-spectrum reaction. Or you can now seperate out the "pure mescaline" all by itself to take on it's own without the "sedating alkaloids". Keep in mind that some people have experienced very powerful visuals using the whole cactus syrup and a "godly experience" in some trip reports I have read while not getting the same quantity/quality experience when using only pure mescaline as a comparison. It's up to you to figure out what you like best. It could be the opposite for you...who knows? This is all fairly new, cutting edge stuff. The only way we will know is thru experimentation by others.

Some people prefer the "syrup" to "pure mescaline", I believe this may be one way, via gassing to collect the "full spectrum alkaloid" effect of the whole syrup in crystalline form. Others can find no difference between the "boiled down cactus syrup" and "pure extracted mescaline". It is subjective.

A few people who enjoy the "syrup":

Kube:

with closed eyes vivid landscapes in the desert with blue and yellow geometric patterns on tric. macrogonus tea/syrup.

free spirit:

w/ mescaline i find the visuals to be very unique. moreso on syrup than on pure. using trich. macrogonus as well too.

the visuals were not distortion based like shrooms and acid seem to do. the visuals instead were like 'slid' over the existing imagery. like laying a stencil over it. (for example, i could see the wall and the chair, and they werent distorted at all, but overlaying it all were these intricate patterns)
w/in these visuals, ive seen various different landscapes. interestingly they tended to favor mayan or incan themes. temples, or vast statues and walls that were like canvases.
lots of geometric shapes...

never gotten the same visuals on pure mescaline. only the foul foul syrup!

Afro88:

Exactly the same visuals I've had in my mescaline experiences. I used Pedro and boiled it into a tea. Definite incan theme, blocky angular shapes and characters. At one stage there were about 20-30 squares overlaid onto each wall of the room aligned up into a perfect grid that all uniformly moved horizontally towards the corner, while shifting between the colours blue, red and green. Amazing stuff, I felt extremely grounded and blissful the whole time.

Now on the crystal:

droop23:

I've been wondering a lot about the high doses people report taking too. For me 300mg of hcl (very light tan/yellow) is definitely a full psychedelic experience with complex 3D CEV, simple 3D and complex 2D OEV, intense flights of imagination, deconstruction of the ego leading towards recall of Buddha-mind, etc. 450mg of hcl ramps the OEV up to complex 3D/4D, can detach me completely from my body/surroundings, and causes my whole being to vibrate with intense energy. I've done up to 350 at shows,etc but can't imagine going much higher in a situation where I'd have to retain at least some control. 450 requires a "safe place" for at least the peak if not much of the ascent. It's been a long time since I've had any acid, but I'd compare 300mg hcl to maybe 150 mcgs of lsd and 450 to about 250mcgs...... Interesting how different all our heads are....

I'll now return to the original topic and get back to posting more on the re-crystallization in a week or two.

[prosrman]

thanks much tregar. huzzAH!

swim would recommend drying the nonpolar even if you intend to titrate because it removes the impurities and lye stuck to the water.

when gassing, swim prefers to drip 28% HCl onto 90% H2SO4 with magnetic stirring. the vapors are led through a tube packed with CaCl2, then a suckback trap, then bubbled into the nonpolar/freebase solution. tregar's method is also quite viable. generating gas using HCl(aq) + NaCl + heat is not recommended.

a $30 mask will not help you, a proper full-face HCl-reducing mask costs $300 but you don't need it and you don't need a fume hood either. simply keep some NaOH solution handy to bubble excess gas into once your freebase is titrated if excess pressure remains in the system. once the pressure has stabilized excess acid can be poured down the drain with cold running water.

swim recommends placing a piece of ordinary white paper over the opening of the nonpolar/freebase jar while gassing. stop gassing immediately when the paper begins to change color, it is a litmus indicator that registers quickly and will prevent you from overgassing.

hive bee unda the sea,
-prosrman

[tregar]

Nice tips prosrman, thanks. Long live the bees.

[tregar]

This thread is being continued here:

Please post all questions and comments pertaining to mescaline hcl re-crystallization/purification here:

http://forums.mycotopia.net/botanica...-w-photos.html (Re-crystallization of mescaline hcl attempt w/photos)