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| | #1 (permalink) |
| XPLORER Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 149
![]() | I almost got to the last stage but failed to fruit. After I cased, the myc ripped right through the thin casing layer in 2 days. I'm going to try to fruit next time as soon as I apply a very thin casing layer. I got overlay and pools of moisture on the surface which probably blocked any knots from breaking through the surface. I got so much moisture that I got some mold. I got bruising on the sub from taking it out from the tub to dump the pools of moisture that were on the surface. The good news is that I made a LC just in case I ran into any problems, so I'll take another shot at it! ![]() LC<WBS<HPOO<CASED (Verm & Coir) ![]()
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Admin Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 36,331
![]() | what type of grow chamber do you have set up for them ? why so much moisture ?
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| XPLORER Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 149
![]() | I got monotubs. cubes grow easily with the same parameters and setup that I've tried with the pans. I thought pans had a high tolerance to moisture and temp. I believe I have to fruit earlier.
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,059
![]() | They need more air than that. I've used tubs with the lid slightly cracked open for Panaeolus and it worked pretty good. You can run a small fan in the room to get a draft going for FAE for the tub. Not too much, but enough moving air to do the trick. You don't want the fan pointing directly at the projects. I held a lighter up to one of the cracks to get a good visual of exactly how much air was moving at one of the cracks. The flame slightly moving around was good.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Pantastic Mod Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,049
![]() ![]() | I personally would not be using a monotub, they work great for cubies but there are better ways for Pans. Like Lazlo said, you need more FAE. Also there is a need to control pooling on the myc surface, air circulation would help that out alot. It seems as though the stagnacity of air in the FC drastically lowers yield, if allowing fruiting to occur at all. I use a 64 qt Sterilite FC with about 3 inches of Perilite on the bottom. I have many 5/32" holes drilled below the perlite level to allow CO2 to exit. I use a 60 gal aquarium pump 24/7 through a Tropicaire reptile air exchanger/humidifier mounted on the top of my FC lid. I use containers or bags to place my sub on the perlite. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| XPLORER Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 149
![]() | Thanks for the advice fellas! I would like to keep my grow in a monotub but I agree that I need more FAE. I plan on drilling more 1" holes on the top and bottom of the monotubs to cease the pools of moisture. I innoc 5 jars from a LC I have today so I'll keep you posted. It should take me 2 weeks to get back at the fruiting stage. I am surprised how fast pan's myc grows. Wish me luck! ![]()
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| XPLORER Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 149
![]() | For the casing, I used 50 Coir / 50 Verm with 10% calcium carbonate by volume. I'm going to apply a very thin layer of casing next time around. Thin casing layer and more holes in my tubs will keep my subs from overlay and hopefully pins. ![]()
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