n00b overview - Step 1

[gravit8]

Okay so I'll be doing a series of posts that might help the new mycologist save time and effort from the process.

Mycotopia is a vast forum with nearly 20,000 members (and an equal number of threads) and obviously a lot of information. For the starting user it can be overwhelming and very difficult to find relevant information without a lot of time to spend looking for answers. So here we go. From the start.

STEP 1.
Determine your budget. It can be fairly cheap to get started, with a later expenditure far exceeding the initial cost, or you can just buy everything you'll need from the start with nothing to buy later but re-supplies.
Honestly, getting a solid working setup will cost you between $100-$200 for reliable, reproducible results and re-usable materials (in August, 2008 prices).
The following are itms you will absolutely need to have any success following the average TEK (and we'll assume we're all shopping at Hell-Mart for lack of other worldwide corporate monsters):

1) Big Pressure Cooker. Get the big Presto 16qt. for around $60. They also sell a larger 23qt model for $90. You can get a smaller one, or a cheaper one, but the pressure cooker (PC from now on) will become the most important tool you use. You can do things without a PC, but it'll take you a whole lot of effort and you'll risk a higher percentage of contamination. Also, bigger models provide for less effort in prepping a set amount of substrate. Smaller might be cheaper, but how much is your time worth when considering how often you'll be waiting for stuff to cook/cool?

2) Wide-mouth canning jars and lids. Depending on what TEK you use you'll end up with either 1/2pint, pint, or quart jars (maybe even bigger sizes). Pick up an extra 12pack of lids for whatever sizes you're using, too. They'll come in handy later on, for only $2. You'll want to get two dozen jars at around $8 a dozen, + extra lids = $20 worth of jars to start.

3) Containers and measuring utensils. While you may already have a fully-appointed kitchen, you want to get this stuff for dedicated use. Get it all together and make a kit so you'll never be looking for that one measuring cup when you need it...
a) Large mixing bowl set for less than $4
b) Measuring cup set. less than $2
c) Liquid measuring cup $1
d) Large spoon/scoops less than $3
e) Large strainer w/smaller holes $3
f) candy thermometer (bright yellow, made of glass) $2
g) 1 Large non-stick cooking pot w/lid. $5

Total = $25 or less for everything. **The dollar stores will often have this stuff for even less

4) Hardware for lids. Forget about poking holes in the lid and leaving it uncovered. Top posters here on Myco have eliminated the need for this with a little effort and less than $20 for everything you'll need in a one-time expense. In the hardware section of the hellmouth:
a) Flat washers x45. They come in a 15 pack for about a dollar. Get 3/8" diameter, zinc plated. You'll need 2 for every lid you prep.
b) RTV high-temp silicone sealant ($6 for 3oz). This is easy to find in auto parts stores. DO NOT GET ANYTHING ELSE. Residential/bathroom sealers don't do the job. Trust in experience here.
total hardware= $10+

5) Sterilization stuff. One key to successful results is keeping the nasties away (or dead). Every time you insert anything into one of your jars, it should be absolutely free of bacteria and foreign matter.
a) a big jug of 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. Less than $2
b) a big jug of hydrogen peroxide. Less than $2
c) A half dozen rolls of paper towels. $3 +/-
d) a bottle of bleach. $2

6) Tyvek. You might have seen it wrapped around houses while they wait for siding. This is a synthetic material created by dupont that has very small pores - small enough to keep mold spores, water/moisture, and bacteria out while permitting gas and fresh air exchange. You don't need much to get started, however it comes in very handy in later stages if building larger fruiting chambers or using the 'tub' method.
Sources would be Lowes, Home Depot, other construction supply/lumber places. Some have suggested liberating the shipping envelopes from your local post office but if you take the time to procure a large roll of it you'll never need to get more ever again.
cost= free to $30

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT = These items will help speed things along , and can later be used for other steps in the process. Recommended for mycologists of a northern location (i.e. unless ambient temp stays above 50 degrees at night, where keeping things heated to around 80 degrees could be difficult).

7) Several cheap Sterilite tubs, preferably solid colors for the incubation chamber (if so desired). 10 gallon sizes work well, big enough to hold all the jars you intend on having incubate at once. $4-$5 apiece = $10

8) Submersible fishtank heater for 10-20 gallon tank. Depends on the size of tubs you chose. Smaller, lower wattage, with an adjustable temp. Maybe $20 tops brand spanking new. Probably a lot less. Go to some garage sales in the 'hood
a) small fishtank bubbler, depending on your TEK, $5

9) One large tub to use as a glovebox, say 20 gal+ (wider and longer vs. taller/deeper). Pick up a sheet of clear plexiglass for about $10 to use as a viewing port. Some thicker plastic utility gloves and an adhesive (you could even use the RTV sealer from above) and you've got a sterile workchamber for around $20. Do some research on gloveboxes for more ideas...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, as you can see, costs can get up there pretty quick. The list above is a basic rundown of the supplies you'll need to get started with your average grain or BRF TEK through the innoculation and colonization stages of growth, but one could easily top the $200 before even getting started here. Also, you can purchase many of these items in assembled form ready to use from www.mycrotopia.com, which is much easier to start with with could end up being considerably more expensive in the long run if you screw up. Once again, consider your final intent before making these purchases - do you just want to mess around for personal fun, or do you intend on trying multiple strains at once?

Obviously, some items are missing from this list...Spore syringes can be obtained from a number of sources online. Check the sponsor page for listings and be prepared to wait while the USPS does it's thing. I've personally ordered from several sources and found Ralphster's to be the most reliable thus far (potent spore wise). They have great specials, too.
No matter where you order from, be prepared to order at least 5 or 6 syringes as you'll probably need backups. Even the best prepared research project can go down the tubes in an ugly mess of colored mold with just one small mistake, sending you back to the start. If you're like me, waiting for a new set of syringes between every failure is painfully annoying.
So, to help your chances, $60 is a reasonable expenditure at Ralphsters. Look through the specials. I'll discuss what I know of strain selection in another post so we can explore the different characteristics in more detail. Since everyone has their favorite strain it could be interesting

Another item left out is your substrate selection. Until now, the most recommended TEK for beginners, PF TEK, uses brown rice flour and vermiculite. This stuff is cheap and easy to use, while more advanced users tend to use grain mixtures and even popcorn. This topic also deserves another thread simply to run through the different stuff you can read about, but generally speaking, what you chose to work with will be a result of personal preference, amount of free time, amount of resources (money), and ease of locating materials. In some parts of the country finding rye berries in bulk can be nearly impossible. All of the stuff I've listed so far is pretty easy to find at most retail stores, but you may still decide to go with a pre-mixed/pre-prepped option shipped to you to get started.

*****
I've condensed information plied from at least 30 different threads to come up with this list, though it is by no means complete. Check for the next part on why I chose these materials and how to use them, where I'll try to explain what/why and list the threads where this info came from for further review. My intent here is to simplify the process overall and get the basics in a neat series of posts so someone new to the hobby can get a foundation of knowledge without digging through the nearly 400,000 posted comments on mycotopia.

More...later

[floppypeter]

Afterthought:

A very cheap method is Mycrotek bags ($42) and 5 syringes from Hillbilly ($25)

no other gear required

[Shroomette]

[Yale]

I thought 75 percent iso alcohol was better because it takes longer to evap? wasn't there a thread on this..

[gravit8]

In my first post I went over a list of materials you'll need to get started through colonization. Here I'll go over why I chose them and attempt to provide deeper links for the Mycologist who MUST have all the info. (Be sure to check for links as well as glossary definitions in all highlighted words).

1.The most important item in the toolbox for the average mycologist is the Pressure Cooker. I personally chose the 16qt. Presto model from my local Wal-Mart (despite my resentment of the place, it was pretty convenient (he says as thousands of small shopkeepers turn in their graves)).

For $60 you get a model that can be adjusted for pressure and it holds 8 pint jars upright at a time(you can even squeeze a half-pint or two in there). The reason you'll really want to consider getting a bigger model is because this step is absolutely essential for eliminating contamination from molds and bacteria. Every time you want to try a new strain or decide to start a new run, you'll face a three+ hour (at least) process packing, heating, cooking, and cooling your jars. If you can only do three jars at a time, it could take the whole day to prep a dozen jars with substrate. You simply can't skip this step (alternative methods here, NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE N00B (Fractional Sterilization - mushrooms without a pressure cooker.)), so carefully consider how much you'll be making.
The little buggers that'll ruin your efforts are very tough to get rid of, needing very high temperatures or chemicals in nearly toxic mixtures (for our purposes) to kill them off. Any number of posts on Mycotopia are questions about contamination, so pick a few and read up (sterilization forum:new vaults). While various methods suggest soaking grain to coax endospores to hatch, even pre-baking BRF and vermiculite to sterilize before mixing, etc, nothing comes close to blasting your substrate for more than an hour at several hundred degrees. This is achieved through pressurizing boiling water at 15psi, which raises the boiling point and internal temperature north of 250 degrees. With enough time in this environment you effectively eliminate anything that could cause you problems from inside the jar. There are some other tips for getting this process right, but after a few tries you'll know what heat setting and length of time you'll need to use for optimal results. Some substrates don't cook like others, either. Once again, look through the forum on TEK choices for particular information and variables, there are simply too many to pick from: bulk, grain, rye &wheat, BRF variations, etc.)

2.No matter what substrate you chose to use, you'll probably put it in jars. Other methods using oven bags and an assortment of other containers are out there, but for the beginner jars are simply the easiest thing to use. PF TEK suggests using half-pint jars, while others quickly suggest full pint or even quart jars. Container forum.
In general, though, WIDE-MOUTH (to enable extraction of your colonized cake) pint jars should be optimal for BRF and even grain mixes as far as overall volume. Depending on what fruiting method you chose (invitro, 'cake' style, or a bulk spawn, more on that selection later) pint jars offer an ideal volume to colonize and establish a community able to resist contamination when exposed for the next step. You may get a half-pint to colonize quickly but then you have less usable material to work with overall in your next step. Again, it all depends on what you intend on doing after you've got an established colony of mycelium.
You should pick up some extra lids too, for a couple dollars, as eventually you might try Liquid Culture (LC) or simply use them to keep sterilized equipment sterile until you need it (quart jars make great containers for sterilizing used syringes, airports (airport re-deux) and the like in your adjustable pressure cooker).

3. "3) Containers and measuring utensils. While you may already have a fully-appointed kitchen, you want to get this stuff for dedicated use. Get it all together and make a kit so you'll never be looking for that one measuring cup when you need it...
a) Large mixing bowl set for less than $4
b) Measuring cup set. less than $2
c) Liquid measuring cup $1
d) Large spoon/scoops less than $3
e) Large strainer w/smaller holes $3
f) candy thermometer (bright yellow, made of glass) $2
g) 1 Large non-stick cooking pot w/lid. $5

Total = $25 or less for everything.
**The dollar stores will often have this stuff for even less"**

These items should be self-explanatory. While you may already have them laying around the house, it's easiest if you have the specific items you need for your efforts all in one place. I have a large plastic tub I keep most of this stuff in, and it's always there when I need it. Never underestimate your roommates' ability to lose the flippin strainer and not tell you until you're already done soaking your grain. Like a mechanic and his toolbox, this tub is off-limits to anyone not me.

4. LIDS. This is probably the 2nd most important item you'll use in your efforts. The original PF TEK (BASIC BRF TEK) uses the 'open hole' method which is, frankly, inviting disappointment and failure. Leaving open holes, even with a generous amount of vermiculite on top of your substrate, leaves you and your little spore buddies at a serious disadvantage when the mold spores come floating in (it only takes 1 microscopic spore to ruin your jar, and it'll spread faster than you think).
So you've got options, and mycotopians have found some of the best. Hippie3 is a staunch supporter of high temp RTV sealant, for good reason. It's flexible nature makes it perfect for use as a self-healing injection port - the place you'll be sticking your needles when innoculating. It'll take repeated stabbing, hundreds of times, before needing to be replaced, and it's high-temp formulation means it'll stay intact when sterilizing your jars at over 250 degrees. Other sealants, specifically the stuff you'd find in the hardware dept. of walmart, aren't usually heat-resistant and often take up to a month to cure fully. AVOID THIS STUFF. It's worthless for our purposes. I've wasted money trying different types, even sauna and hot-tub sealant, and nothing comes close to the RTV stuff. Expensive but worth it for the dozens of lids you can make (and it often comes in handy for other home projects and putting together fruiting chambers).
ABOUT TYVEK (<---excellent discussion with actual data) (Tyvek)RTV also seals your tyvek and washers to the lids, providing a barrier and adhesive around your breathing hole. Once colonization begins, gases need to be exchanged from the jar (the reason for the open holes in orig. PF TEK). You simply cut two round pieces of tyvek for each lid, glue one piece to one side of a washer, and then glue the other side of the washer to your lids leaving dead air space between the tyvek (this helps prevent 'wicking' of contam through the tyvek, a rare but occasional possibility).
When done properly, you'll have two holes in each lid, one sealed with RTV and the other covered on both sides by a small piece of tyvek suspended on a washer. This allows you to eliminate the vermiculite/polyfil barrier inside your jars and removes 99% of the chance of mold spoiling your day, assuming you PC'd things correctly. A few hours spent putting these lids together will last you for dozens of batches and save you from pulling your hair out after seeing those first spots of (green, yellow, orange, black, etc).

5. Sterilization stuff...should speak for itself. You'll swab each lid with iso alc EVERY SINGLE TIME you inject your jars if you intend of keeping mold at bay. You'll also dip the needle in alc between each jar after flame sterilizing it w/basic lighter if you're really intent on keeping things clean.
You'll also want to bathe in it on a regular basis if you don't build yourself a glovebox to work in, and even with a glove box you'll be using quite a bit to ensure it's sterile before you do anything.
IT ONLY TAKES ONE SINGLE MICROSCOPIC SPORE TO CONTAMINATE EVERYTHING YOU'VE DONE. They'll go from jar to jar without hesitation if you don't keep things 100% sterile between each one. It's hard to overstate how important this activity is to a successful result.


Incubators: why you might need one.
Basically, you'll need to keep your little buddies at a certain temperature for optimal performance and results. While not entirely necessary, a simple tub-in-tub incubator can get your freshly inoculated jars started and growing, on average, more quickly than leaving it on it's own at room temperature.
For an on-the-cheap reliable re-usable and stealthy incubator one only needs two large(r) solid color plastic tubs, a small fish tank heater some water. You simply put some water (with a small amount of bleach to prevent mold or bacterial growth so close to your research) in the bottom of one tub with the heater fully submerged. You might need something to space the second tub, which will be set into the bottom tub ('stacked in') and the warmed water. Your jars will go in the top, dry tub and sealed with the lid. A small thermometer might be helpful to montior the internal temp of your incubator, which will provide optimum results at around 80 degrees (between 78 and 82 by most estimates is a good temp).
Solid colors will eliminate the possibility of light slowing colonization (a small but potential factor), and also keep people from knowing at a glance that you're doing some dr. weird stuff in your bedroom.

Last on the list I make mention of a glovebox. This is a simple chamber designed to eliminate outside disturbance and air movement while working with your materials. Used properly, a glove box can almost completely remove the potential for contamination of your strains, substrates, prints and syringes while working with them. Basic operation involves as much sterilization os possible before putting equipment/supplies into a closed chamber that has also been sterilized as much as possible. More sterilization takes place after everything is placed in the chamber, and then one can manipulate materials with near impunity, without fear of mold or other crap getting your meticulously prepared jars thrown out halfway through colonization, as long as you follow sterile procedure when handling everything else. It sounds tedious but after a few lost batches you'll quickly look for ways at cutting down on waste...

****

Once again, this is just basic what/how/why as an overview before you even get started picking what TEK you'll use and to what end, updated and peppered with actual links to the deeper discussion thread speread throughout mycrotopia. I may have missed some things but in general this is what you'll need to know for quick-and-dirty answers about why you should make so much effort from the beginning. Many thanks to those who've spent the time already ironing out these problems in the past.

MORE TO COME...
Part 2: choosing your strain...a discussion thread

[gravit8]

One of the reasons I'm trying to tie all this info together is just that:

Yes, I'm sure there's a thread, but in this case it's mostly irrelevant since the simple application of iso alc of medical quality use will do the job, but feel free to dig that link up and post it to part 1a : why (N00b Overview - step 1a materials and why)

[gravit8]

This is, next to picking a TEK, the most difficult factor when deciding on a starting point for this hobby.
A quick tour of Ralphsters Spores will reveal an astonishing 91 different strains to choose from (no shit, 91. Next time someone tries to sell you something, ask them what strain it is. Educate yourself and make a fool out of anyone who tries push B+ when it's actually Brazilian).

While not all 91 in that collection are 'for research purposes only' - some are actual foodstuff quality - a general survey will prove that among the varieties we're looking for, there is a substantial range of qualities shared and unique among the various strains.
Some have become the 'standard' for beginners, and others are recommended for more experienced researchers due to particular quirks and needs. Among the more difficult and unique are strains from another species of mushroom altogether - Pan Cyans. For the most part, we're interested in P. Cubinisus strains, as theyr'e all generally the same in needs and result.

For starters, though, one would be hard pressed to suggest anything other than B+, Golden Teacher, or Ecuadorian (EQ), if popularity was a measure of ease of growth. These strains are hardy, reliable, and have a good mix of aggressive growth, resistance to contamination, production and strength.

Other good starters could be the Mexi-cube, Argentine, Brazilian, or anything else with aggressive colonization characteristics. Dozens of threads discuss the merits of all I've mentioned here and then some, so personal choice in this matter is the main factor.
My own personal knowledge of the strains is limited, but it would seem at a glance that most of these strains fall into just a few different categories: Asian/'eastern island' strains, Indian strains, south american strains, 'gulf strains'(originating in middle-america and around the gulf of mexico in the south/southeast of the US), and of course strains the thrive in the upper northwestern part of the US like oregon and washington.

Most do well with any sort of grain-based TEK you might use (as in, flour, whole grain, mixed grain, etc). Some respond differently to changes in temp and humidity, let alone the kinds of nutrients mixed into the substrate you choose to use. This information is buried in the vaults here at mycotopia, so instead of commenting on any one type in the comments section, I'd really like for people with knowledge on particular strains to post the links where more (detailed) information might be found or shared.

In the end, regardless of which strain you chose, you'll want to order several syringes to begin with. As you will no doubt encounter contamination, mistakes, and even the occasional pissed-off/jealous girlfriend, it's more than a great idea to have backups for the next round. There will always be a next round, because once you get a finished product, you'll want to try another strain, or another method, and until you're successful enough to make your own prints and syringes, you'll have to wait patiently by the mailbox for your next order when you run out.
As far as ordering, and receiving the stuff in the mail, there are currently no federal laws prohibiting the transportation of spores (as far as I could discern, but I'm not a lawyer). Some states forbid it explicitly (California, Georgia and Idaho, sorry ya'll). In any case, spores sent through the mail are always intended for microscopic research ONLY, so everything I've discussed thus far, and potentially all information on this site, is for theoretical research past plain old microscopic study. Ya dig? I said theoretical, as in, you don't ever intend on performing any steps that could produce the VERY ILLEGAL fruit of this interesting species (it becomes a 'transporter' of a SCHEDULE I narcotic, listed as having no therapeutic use and high potential for abuse, right alongside cocaine, crack, meth, and pot. Yeah, it's like that (total bullshit but someone else decided on this years ago. Way to go, democracy!).

Since this material is only for research purposes, on a fundamental level the FEDS, in any guise, really shouldn't care what you're up to, or care about the shipper and who he's shipping slide-quality spore material to. It's important to understand and approach any transaction this way for the sake of everyone involved. Much as a 'bong' sold in head shops across the country are only to be referred to as WATER PIPES FOR TOBACCO ONLY in store, so it is with spore prints and syringes.

As with those stores, the FEDS need some serious reason to procure customer information like orders, addresses, and payments, but they're getting expanded powers every time congress meets so the picture is changing constantly. What you need to be concerned about is what kind of information you're willing to connect to your purchases and how you're sending it. Ralphster's uses a mail order system wherein you send an order form and cash or money order through the mail, eliminating any electronic eavesdropping potential and saving your credit card info to be sold only by the porn site you just visited. Assuming those written records are destroyed by Ralphster upon receipt of the order, you'd be safe short them snooping through your mail.

One can order online, as well, with a variety of vendors ready and willing to take your credit card info and ship it off today. The Good Spore, another mycotopia sponsor, is very well established and allow electronic payment options, however the average shipping time is just about equal or longer than that from Ralphster (including time spent mailing the order and money to them). Either way you have a venue here with which to wield a big complaint stick if a sponsor turns out to be a scam - although I have no information to even suggest this. On the other hand, visiting any site not a sponsor here and ordering online could be as faultless as either of the options I've mentioned, or turn into a nightmare of canceled charges and the selling of your personal info. You never know, basically, asit is with any online transaction...

Honestly, though, you don't need to mess around with other vendors at all. I've found the selection, specials, pricing, and shipping time at Ralphsters to be more than adequate (hoping for free stuff with my next order. heh).

I feel this might help a beginner to get a better picture of the known factors for each of these strains by getting a clear view of the information already compiled here at mycotopia. There are currently 73 threads and 2,800+ posts on this subject, some more useful than others. With a little work I'm sure the useful info could be distilled down to one thread for each particular strain with solid experience info.

Help a N00b discover new strains or simply start with a winner, right here.

[ez_goin]

Damn gravit8,
You're realy pumping these threads out today. Thanks for the patience and dedication to do so.

[goebbels]

Really helpful thanks =3!

[gravit8]

Here I break from cover and run headlong onto the battlefield.

Anyone can purchase the materials, and anyone can order the spores, and anyone can put together everything and mix and match all they want, but to be successful, you need a proper TEK.

There's just one catch: you have to pick from hundreds of different procedures, which may be tailored to a specific strain or even suited for a specific environment (say, Denver, with a high altitude, or Phoenix, which has a relative humidity somewhere near Zero, give/take).

I won't even attempt to single one out over the rest, rather, I'd like to help weigh the options and parameters based on a discovery of the particular need of you, the N00b. My desire to do an overview actually stems from the absurd amount of information available, and the haphazard way it's doled out across this site, sometimes in a proper thread and often a single post unrelated to the thread it's actually in. Without a bigger picture of all the elements needed for a successful run, picking the details of your TEK can be, at best, a shot in the dark. And I'm sure many a N00b has missed the mark entirely.

"MARCO!"

You should probably get things started by selecting a strain (N00b Overview - Step 2 Picking a strain) and ordering the first set of syringes you'll use. Assuming you've already purchased the basic supplies I outlined in step 1, you're set to start a vast majority of the TEKs, or methods, that can eventually produce the fruit of your efforts. You'll find several pages worth of alternative options (than using a jar), but most of these are actually based on jar TEKs with some adaptation. We'll go over that route in more detail later.

Without getting too specific, preparation of your substrate will include several steps that will provide moisture, nutrients, and a place for your spores to take hold that provides all the right requirements for quick growth. Selecting the right ingredients for the job is essential, and one must have a long-term plan to select the right substrate, so we'll...

START AT THE END!

If only it were that easy. In a roundabout way, as this is just another of life's cycles, your spores are actually all that remains of a past organism, yada yada...insert philosophy here.

Seriously, though, what you get in the end is only a reflection of what you put into the jar and sterilize several months previous. If you only want a personal experience, what you start with can differ quite a bit than what you'd start with for a more bountiful project, but will generally fall into two categories:

BRF/PF/CAKE

For modest, novice mycologists, the classic BRF / PF TEK (BASIC BRF TEK) will be the easiest to handle, has the most information readily available, and will produce very reliable results with only a few tries. You can't sneeze on mycotopia without getting some on another BRF variation, which is to say, with a little effort and experimentation you can make cake teks work in nearly any setup.

As if this style needed any more help, several sponsors offer pre-mixed jars/tubs that are already prepared and ready to go out of the box, just give em a squirt and (providing you sterilized the spore needle) in a few short weeks you'll be ready for fruiting (more on that in a bit). If you'd rather do it yourself (it's why you bought all them jars, lunkhead!) you'll be mixing some brown rice flour (or flour of some sort) and something that'll hold water - vermiculite in the classic PF TEK. Some special mixes include several other ingredients to add some nutrients, but the basic recipe works without much modification.

With this TEK you eliminate some of the steps associated with whole grain prep, but the right moisture and density can be difficult to achieve. Cakes also provide fewer spawn points if you decide to go bulk, as they are difficult to break into smaller pieces comparable to grain, which is why they're generally preferred for smaller projects, like in vitro fruiting and smaller stealth grows.


WHOLE GRAIN

Just what it says! TEKs abound for different grains, but they all include the same basic steps. Take your selected grain, soak it/cook it/mix it up, jar it, and sterilize. I personally use a mixture of rye berries and Quinoia, but these can be difficult to find in smaller cities if at all. Other grains could be long grain brown rice, wheat, flax seed, popcorn, corn, wild bird seed (WBS), or virtually any solid seed of a smaller size.


Common wisdom would discourage the new researcher to avoid using a whole-grain approach, however someone wishing to quickly multiply an existing stock of mycelium would likely choose grain over cake teks for one characteristic: multiple spawn points. In a cake, it becomes one mostly solid mass of substrate and mycelium, difficult to break into small pieces, limiting the potential surface area of your spawn (spawn is the mycelium you're transferring to another medium, in which it will colonize and grow).

When mycelium grows in whole grains, it grows in, around, on top of, and connects each individual grain (optimum results). It can then be broken after everything is colonized, back into the individual grains, except now they're covered by our fuzzy friend. Then mixed into a bulk substrate (this is where one can get really, really exotic), each tiny grain is a single point of mycelium in the new substrate. With thousands of other little friends mixed evenly in the new 'food', a single jar or two can colonize a significant volume of material in a short period of time.

STEALTH GROWS

You might be living with nosy roommates (MOO-OM! GET OUT OF MY ROOM!) or in some situations that just aren't suited to having shelves of jars with strange colors in them or large plastic containers that need 12 hours of light every day. In this case, a solid no-mess small footprint approach is needed.
In Vitro is the process of fruiting your colonized substrate almost entirely in the jar, allowing you to control the events and variables with a very small amount of space and effort. Details vary and personal situations will give rise to endless adaptations, but the elements will remain the same : keep it simple, keep it small, keep it stealthy. You won't be producing a large amount of slide-quality research material, but with practice you can have a ready supply growing quietly almost anywhere. "See that pile of stuff in the corner? Look closer."

THE TUB

When I first read about the tub, it was an older thread where Those Who Have Gone Before were experimenting with all kinds of ideas (you might be sensing a theme on variations...). The basic setup is an enclosed chamber, rigged somehow to provide for some airflow and a regular dose of light.

In principle, this is simple enough. Over time it's been honed and mutated, and now you can use THE TUB for just about any kind of finishing steps you'd like. Basically, take one of the tubs you bought in part one, cut some holes into it and cover them with tyvek, and you've got a versatile fruiting chamber. A piece of plexi glued over a big hole or a clear lid to let light in
is easy enough, and all you've got left is to fill it and put it into the light 12 hours a day. For several weeks.

THE TUB works great for bulk spawning, because it gives you the square footage for a nice colony - the bigger the tub, the more surface area you have, more research material, etc. Sealed up right, moisture can be kept high and internal temp is fairly easy to adjust if you're using the tub/in incubator (also in pt. 1). it isn't packed full of material, either - technically you only need a few inches of substrate, maybe twice as much headroom for your new friends (my they've grown so quickly!), and the rest is gravy. THE TUB stacks in the closet easy, moves easy, is virtually invisible (who questions a storage tub sitting in the corner of your room, esp. if it's under all your dirty laundry?)

As a fruiting chamber for cakes and BRF projects, it works just as well. If one were so inclined, you could use a TUB for your entire experiment. Made into a glovebox, you could actually innoculate, colonize, birth and fruit the entire batch inside a single storage container. Talk about stealthy, your workstation and work would never be too far apart - and sterile as all hell. Can't beat that with a stick. Well, you could, but it'd be pretty tough...

So now we'll talk about:
BULK

Again I find a general discouragement of going straight to bulk, but with the right info it can be done successfully on the first try (I've experimented with the proof). To get bulk right, you need to have an absolute command of the sterile procedures that are the cornerstone of worthwhile effort. Dealing with large amounts of material means exponentially increasing potential sites of contamination, and in most cases you won't have the luxury of blasting everything with 250+ degrees of godliness. In fact, most of your bulk substrate will be pasteurized to encourage the best action for your quickly reproducing little buddies.

This is where the candy thermometer comes into play. For best results you'll need to hold your materials at a set temperature, but not above or below it, for a set length of time. This is tedious and boring and has to be done right, but the payoff is a whole field of dreams reaching for the light when you look down from your heavenly perch. It's hard to describe the feelings a whole TUB of open boomers can instill on the heart. Brings a tear to my eye to think about it...

BAGS AND LOGS

Another bulk method to consider is the BAG or LOG. These are self-contained colonies filled with bulk substrate that can even bear fruit in open, exposed locations, like outdoors. As with everything else, where a modification is needed to produce results in a unique environment, mycotopians have found an answer. Also available from our sponsors, pre-mixed and prepped bags are a fun way to experiment with your existing strains and maybe venture back into the outdoors where this all began.

Usually, a fast colonizing strain is better for bulk projects,as quick turnaround is only a byproduct of a natural defense mechanism. Aggressive strains are successful because they quickly consume and absorb the material that would otherwise become mold if left exposed. A large amount of pasteurized hay, for example, is like a giant buffet for spores of all kinds. The more mycelium you have, and the more physical contact it has with the material, the less your chances of allowing mold to get a quick snack are. Once the mold sits down at your buffet table, everyone else might as well find something else to do, b/c your experiment is done. Increase your odds, lower theirs. Mold has a vast number of soldiers and the only defense here is the same: numbers.

Essentially, a bulk operation is really just moving an established colony to a larger amount of substrate material, where it continues to colonize until it's ready to fruit. The details of fruiting are complex, so we'll take that topic on another time as questions are sure to prove more numerous than answers on that subject, but it's a matter of some interest here so:

FRUITING IN NON-BULK

Basically, if you chose go on a smaller scale, you'll need to construct a chamber in which the environment is entirely under you control. Temperature, humidity, and gas levels are all important factors and depending on your grow TEK how you approach this portion of your project will vary immensely. Some chose to case their substrate, others go straight outta the cake, and some options are in between. What you chose to do with your specific setup is your call; you can't deny nature it's essential needs, however, and must take the time to monitor and perfect your final setup until it's reliable and productive for your needs. Smaller fruiting chambers can appear to be the best answer - except that in a smaller environment, even small changes can have a big effect, whereas a large chamber is more laborious to adjust but more stable in the long run. Small modifications are often then only course of action, while big changes in design can take weeks to provide solid feedback but might just help get past a recurring problem.

Full Circle?

So we're back at the beginning, where choosing a grain based TEK lends itself best for bulk work but isn't the only game in town for smaller players. The theme and overwhelming fact of the matter is, however, that you can adapt any of the TEKs for virtually any fruiting method and vice versa, back and forth, until you've read enough to get your mind mushy and you end up not entirely sure of where you started.

So get a solid idea of what you expect now, and in the future, and make sure the two ideas meet somewhere along the way. Adapt it for you, get it to work, and share the results. Maybe you'll have the next BIG BREAKTHROUGH and you'll help others too.


A FINAL WORD ON TEKS

In the end, this is just a hobby, and probably shouldn't be taken too seriously, since you're only trying to produce specimens to study under a microscope. Eating the fruits of your labor is expressly forbidden by federal law and this should always, ALWAYS _ALWAYS_ be a major factor in your research. Sharing with friends is great until the word gets out and you're the victim of stupid drama, like an ex or a parent or a spouse or whatever.

Up until you've produced fruits, your new hobby is legal, for the most part. Anything connected to it, anything associated with it, is legal. But once you've managed to coax even one single mature 'shroom, and quite possibly even before that (pins), you're crossing into manufacturing with intent to deliver territory. Thats fedral law. Ouch is right. While cops have much better things to do, DEA and other federal agents have plenty of free time to go after you for what you grew in your closet. Don't doubt that for a second. They wander around phish shows, they have more than a few agents at Bonoroo (spellcheck? anyone?), and they're asking your neighbors what you have in your spare bedroom after your take kindly to an undercover narc at some random house party.

If that doesn't scare you, it should. All it takes is one vengeful ex-friend and you're looking at federal agents in full body armor as they pile through your (now broken) front door. And that isn't even the worst thing that could happen, in some neighborhoods you'd be lucky if the cops showed up before anyone else.

Put it all together, and you've got some big things to consider before picking a TEK to work with. Take some time, do some pros/cons, dig around, and be comfortable with what you're planning before you get started. If you decide this hobby is not for you after a couple of tries, you're only out some time and money and you've got some kitchenware in return.
If you're good at it the sky's the limit.

Please save your TEK advice and opinions for the forums, this isn't so much about specifics as it is general knowledge. Thanks, and keep adapting mycotopia.

[gravit8]

Forgot to mention the links to relevant forums and threads are embedded, although several were overwritten by the default glossary tag. The whole purpose of this was to pull together some general knowledge to help in getting started and the links for more detailed info is there.

Next episode I'll look at preparing a batch of each kind of general TEK, cake vs. grain. Grain can be a PITA, but worth the effort. Cakes can be anything you want them to be. Should be fun.

Providing my house doesn't get blown down tomorrow. On the bright side, all of my projects are in watertight containers

[bluethumb]

...OMG that is one big ass post i do enjoy ur love of writing though

[crazy1]

Up until you've produced fruits, your new hobby is legal, for the most part. Anything connected to it, anything associated with it, is legal. But once you've managed to coax even one single mature 'shroom, and quite possibly even before that (pins), you're crossing into manufacturing with intent to deliver territory

spores are the ONLY part of the mushroom that's legal.
And it's not in all states.
As soon as there's mycelium you are into the illegal area.

[crazy1]

The original (BASIC BRF TEK) (BASIC BRF TEK)PF TEK uses the 'open hole' method which is, frankly, inviting disappointment and failure. Leaving open holes, even with a generous amount of vermiculite on top of your substrate , leaves you and your little spore buddies at a serious disadvantage when the mold spores come floating in (it only takes 1 microscopic spore to ruin your jar, and it'll spread faster than you think).

I really have to disagree here.
This TEK and it's lid set up is the oldest and MOST reliable TEK there is!
It has been proven successful 100's of 1000's of times!
I don't understand why you'd question it, and by doing so possibly cause some "new to the growing experience" to veer away from it.
That is ignorant!
As long as you follow that TEK to a T you'll be successful.

[sagiboy]

hi im new here.
yesterday ive started growing shrooms for the 1st time.
http://forums.mycotopia.net/fungi-gr...tml#post573562 (I NEED ADVICE (light issues+temp handle))

ive made 4 hole at each jar and after injecting i closed it with a medical duck tape. after eading the (BASIC BRF TEK) (BASIC BRF TEK)PF ive made 1 hole with a syringe at each jar.
is it ok?

[crazy1]

the tape is unnecessary, remove it.
other than that you look good to go

[Hippie3]

http://forums.mycotopia.net/faq-freq...ked-questions/

[floppypeter]

Mycobags are super easy if your a slob like me

THey are the hardest thing to contaminate imho and the easiest to use for a noob

[hyphaenation]

My desire to do an overview actually stems from the absurd amount of information available, and the haphazard way it's doled out across this site

Thats simply not correct folks. There is nothing haphazard or absurd about the info here.

Thats an opinion of a 90 day member with 21 posts.

Do the research. There is no "mushroom 4 dummies" layout here. Get out your shovel and start digging.

[gravit8]

If you read my whole post you'd realize I wasn't dissing the whole PF TEK.
Again, JUST THE LIDS. Thats it. For another $10 you can eliminate the need for the extra vermiculite (making more room for cake) and positively seal your container. You can be unbelievably sloppy with the jars with the sealed lids. Instead of losing 20% or whatever, you start losing 5% or less to contams. Imagine losing only 1 or 2 jars for every 20 you prep vs 4 or 5 or more.

I'm sure some people have lost entire batches b/c they had open holes and couldn't resist looking at them, moving the verm around, until it got a foothold. Maybe they didn't pack the verm tight. Whatever. Remove the variable and you remove possibility of failure because of that variable.

Why is that addition/change so hard for people to grasp? I went over the idea behind the lid IN DEPTH and explained the whole flippin thing, and yet you call me ignorant.

And because I'm only registered since May I'm...what, stupid? Because you can't browse as a guest unregistered? And, you know, I obviously have no grasp of the topic whatsoever.

Yes haphazard. One FAQ turns into a discussion about glossary terms. There are two different mushroom forums, one recent discussion and the other in the vaults, while Hippie3 has himself 34,000 posts which range across the entire site.

The best prepared information was compiled by BB in one nice thread. Yes there are nice topic bars and everything looks organized, but the info is fragmented by it's nature. It is absolutely true that you'll often find things in threads not exactly about what's being discussed. Even the constant moderation of every single post couldn't to keep that all in order, no matter how hard anyone tried. How do determine if information about tyvek is better suited to a thread about building chambers than lids, for example? You couldn't expect anyone to keep it all straight, and I never said that should be the case.

And a constant idea I keep hearing is that, yes, in fact, it is scattered, and the best bits are 'in the cracks' as one person put it, defending the notion that one should have to read a lot, as a sort of right of passage.

But thanks for the support anyways.

[hyphaenation]

If your going to recommend a lid you might as well offer info on the best lids for all around use ...

http://forums.mycotopia.net/jars-bag...lid-setup.html (silicon/tyvek lid setup)

and variation

http://forums.mycotopia.net/jars-bag...-bandaids.html (Self H