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| | #551 (permalink) |
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Here's the link to what I was refering 2:http://www.mycotopia.net/discus/messages/7747/1471 59.html?1087792449 Stuff works wonders. Sometimes the answers r right in front of U. Good idea bout looking up the lime onlime |
| | #552 (permalink) |
| Mycophage Join Date: May 1971
Posts: 128
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what kind of shit are we talking here? dog shit? cat shit? bullshit? horseshit? meadowmuffins? road apples? Personally I prefer horseshit for flavor and texture. Makes sure it is dry before you use it. It won't go bad, can't imagine why you would put it in the fridge except to piss off your family. leave it in the sun and it will last as long as you need. if its raini9ng don't let it wash off into your lawn or the lawn will be happier than the shrooms. shit is easy to deal with, have fun |
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| | #556 (permalink) |
| Forum International Moderator Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 4,616
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Yogis talkin shit again? I like shit myself and will agree... nice dry horse shit is my prefrence also.
__________________ ubuntu! Member of Native Geekaho Tribe. "Think for yourself and question authority" |
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| | #559 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Oct 1972
Posts: 6
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it smells just like my other normal casings... maybe it is the air exchange i have it in a regular styrofoam cooler... i just cut out a hole in each side and filled it with polyfill... maybe that will do the trick...should i just go out and make one of those closets??
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| | #561 (permalink) |
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2 what? Ummm I took 3qts multispore popcorn and spawned that to 9qts of castings mix. This was in a 73qt rubbermaid. I'd go 1:3 for your first time...that way you'll get it a little faster and hopefully no contams. They better you get the longer you can try to make your spawn go....but here less is more. Or even better...what you can do is find a little 6qt shoe box sized plastic container with a lid. Mix 1qt of spawn to 3qts of castings mix. Put the lid on it and let it colonize, then either case it and cover again and let colonize or stick straight in the chamber without a casing layer.
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| | #562 (permalink) |
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What would be the best solution to grow a liquid culture in from an edible culture syringe for storage? Or would I be better off growing it out on agar and sucking it up with dh20? I know it will be stored on agar...but I will make large batches of syringes, some which will be stored for a little while until ready to use.
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| | #566 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Jul 1972
Posts: 80
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In a way, it is a form of isolation, through survival of the fittest, But you only isolate a faster colonizing strain, And even then it's not complete isolation of one strain, Just an isolation of a few strains that colonize well. It's similar to faht's popcorn isolate and myc. syringe tek. http://www.mycotopia.net/discus/messages/7747/1461 08.html?1089240964 I suppose if you're looking to grow and harvest mycelium, It's not a bad way to go about isolation. Even if they don't flush big, they will most likely still fruit. Who knows, You might get lucky and get a nice fruiting strain Not the most efficient way though... Although, It is very handy for making quick myc. syringes! And those always come in handy |
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| | #570 (permalink) |
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those polyfill holes may help, but theyre really not needed. make sure that polyfill does not get stuff splashed on it. it can get nasty. good air exchange is simply opening the cooler up (assuming the casings are not enclosed in any other way) and fanning it with something like.. a magazine, for 10 seconds or so. once a day will do the trick, but 2 or even 3 times is probably better. lots of exposure to fresh air helps to cut down on the contams, especially trich. [assuming the air is reasonably clean]. |
| | #574 (permalink) |
| Mycophage Join Date: May 1971
Posts: 128
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I am intruiged by the use of phalaris grass. this grass contains natural DMT and has been suggested to increase mushroom potency if used as a substrate or suplement. As for straw, I am sure taht you can find some in either a pet store r crafts store. It keeps too well to go out of season and horses use it all year round
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| | #576 (permalink) |
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i've checked out a craft store and they didn't carry any. all of the pet stores i've been to only carry hay. from what i've seen and read, hay doesn't work well as a substrate. i understand cubes will grow on anything but i want a substrate that will perform as well as straw. i'll go check out a few stores soon. |
| | #578 (permalink) |
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I've got horse shit right now. Im really lucky because I live right by a place that has a ton of it and everyone was really nice about letting me take some off there hands. The only person that didn't know we were taking the horse shit was the person that owned the horses (some old lady real nice) I can only imagine what she was thinking when she saw some guy putting horse shit in a bag with such a huge smile |
| | #580 (permalink) |
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I had two bags of wet horse manure mixed with wood shavings, lime and a little hay for six months. For the last three months, one of the bags has just the poo that I'd sorted from the mix of one bag. Animals have made small holes in both bags, so insects and bacteria have started to decompose it. The poo still seems viable for growing so far. However, be warned that my 'leave it alone' method of horse poo storage means the pasterization step requires dealing with lots of wiggly things climbing to the top of the burlap bag when raising the termperature to 160. This is not recommended for those with a weak stomach or those easily grossed out. I simply used a piece of paper to give the three biggest creepy crawlies a free lift to the outdoors. I'm sure I'll get good karma for that. My wife however was not amused with the sight. |
| | #581 (permalink) |
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Wow, nice setup!!! I might suggest taking one of your three main steps out. I've successfully spawned grain based spawn to pasterized manure which is then placed outdoors in a shady area and watered. I mixed with a richer spawn ratio, and to correct my posting, there was about 15 litres of manure to 1.75 litres of spawn in my outdoor patch first planting. The yield in terms of count was ~60 mushrooms in the first flush. I'm concerned also that unless you've already completed spawning on manure indoors, that your extra step will put your outdoor transplant too late in the season to get a decent number of flushes before our weather here gets too cold for the fungus. So I guess I'm saying get your patch outdoors as soon as possible, and that spawning to manure indoors as a precursor to moving outdoors is not necessary, but I'm sure it would work seasonal timing considerations aside. |
| | #582 (permalink) |
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For a casing outdoors, where I am I have rich composted soil that so far has proved to be a good casing material at depths of 1/4 to 1/2 inch. The oyster shell, vermiculite, peat moss and lime seems very deluxe. Another advantage to using soil as a casing is the increased stealth factor. If your soil is not organic compost based with lots of humus, then go ahead and add some vermiculite for a casing, but I'd stay away from mixing peat moss in at 50/50 as I have had disaster using that indoors. It seals easy, and it's hard to detect it having sealed. |
| | #586 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jul 1972
Posts: 386
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I too have been having problems with peat moss and casings. Ill probably cut out the peat and lime, and stick with a 50/25/25 vermic/gardening soil/potting soil casings, then ill cover with rye grass seeds for patch longetivity, concealment, and the grass provides a good environment for primordia to form. To keep the patch continuously fruiting Im going to remove chunks of spawn and casing from time to time and replace it with fresh substrate to feed the mycelia network, Ill also use the removed mycellium to spawn to more substrate in other patches. To deal with those pesky slugs Ill be ringing the patches with Diamataceous (spelling?) Earth, or as its commonly called here DE as well as scattering some over the patch. Ill also place some saucers of beer flush to the ground near the patch to take care of any slugs in the area.
__________________ Stay free As soon as they popped my gate I knew these motherfuckers made a mistake |
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| | #587 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jul 1972
Posts: 386
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Well, today I went ahead and did it, I buried a chunk of furry myc inside of the manure in the patch, ill water it daily now, and time will tell how it turns out. If it works ill be sure to get pics. Here's Hopin' Keep Tokin'
__________________ Stay free As soon as they popped my gate I knew these motherfuckers made a mistake |
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| | #588 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jul 1972
Posts: 386
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Slugs eat the fruitbodies, and leave ugly looking holes in your caps and stems. The worst part is, once they find your patch, if you don't get rid of them, they bring others and they eat your pins before they can even grow. They munch your shrooms as soon as they pop up! Scatter DE on and around your patch, and put beer saucers in the surrounding area.
__________________ Stay free As soon as they popped my gate I knew these motherfuckers made a mistake |
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| | #589 (permalink) |
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I was looking thru Shroom Wizards tek and it says that you can PC the jars without punching holes in the lids as long as they are not the glass or ceramic lids.I have tried this and have not had a problem and it makes sense as far as keeping excess water out. But in searching thru the archives here, I see everyone pokes holes before PC-ing. what's the story??? |
| | #590 (permalink) |
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in general it's not a good idea to pressure cook reasonably airtight containers that are not meant to withstand high pressures and temperatures. if you pressure cook, you typically cook with the jars lid-up and a low level of water (as only a small amount of water actually escapes teh system during the cook). I PC jars with a water level about 1/3 as high as the bottom jars. Tyvek is nice to use for filter. usually, water entering the jars is not a big concern because of the amount used, but it would be ok to have tape over all of the holes except for one, or to poke a small hole in one of the pieces of tape, but this is being a little bit over cautous. i think that the tape would break before the jar explodes. it is convenient to have holes in the jars before cooking for injecting spores/tissue and for air exchange, so that they do not need to be made after cooking. making them after cooking would probably require a greater degree of care to prevent contamination. all the ways i can think of doing this would be a pain in the ass. |
| | #596 (permalink) |
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one adds the peroxide AFTER while the agar is cooling, once the temp drops to 140*F or less. i don't think one really needs a PC for agar although i've never tried it without one so i'm just speculating. but i see no reason why one could not get by with boiling it, there are no endospores to kill in agar. |
| | #600 (permalink) |
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font> what is shamanic?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote> what is meant is that point where the voyage ceases to be recreational and becomes spiritual, usually high [5 dry grams or more] doses are required to reach 'shamanic' levels. |
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