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| Wild Birdseed TEKS millet, etc. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| i party like a rock star Join Date: Apr 1970
Posts: 871
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From what I understand, depending on how you innoculate it. Lime adjusts the ph to disallow contamination spores from germinating. If you plan on innoculating this jar with a multispore solution, it is conceivable that the lime will prevent said spores from germinating. I'd leave it out, use it for bulk substrates. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| The Lost Join Date: Apr 1972
Posts: 1,756
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i don't really see where it would help anything... i mean the jars should be sterilized properly anyways... Lime is used to adjust the PH of acidic substances like peat moss and as far as i know WBS is pretty neutral... what might help you out a little is a pinch or 2 of some powdered gypsum (calcium sulphate) which adds calcium and sulphur both of which are said to help strong growth, and the gypsum also keeps grains from sticking together so much, making them easier to shake LOST
__________________ Plant a seed, It will grow, So it's been, Sow the show To think outside the box, sometimes it is nessecary to step, outside the box |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Harvester of Sorrow Join Date: Apr 1972
Posts: 1,967
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only add a little bit of hydrated lime if you are soaking or simmering in coffee. Even then its not necesary.
__________________ Dreams are real. But they are made of viewpoints, of images, of memories and puns and lost hopes |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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I use a level 5ml measuring spoons worth for every seed soak in a 6qt pan. It really helps for healthy growth, preventing molds, and for preventing the seed from sticking together. After the seed has colonized, I can easily break up the seed with the back of a tablespoon down to the bottom of the jar. There's no problem with multispore knock ups either.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| DUNG DEALER Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 43,266
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5 ml isn't much in a 6 qt pan, i don't see how one could credit, with any certainty, it for "healthy growth, preventing molds, and for preventing the seed from sticking together". btw chalk is a quick 'n easy source of 'gypsum' but sticking shouldn't be a problem unless you over-cook the grains & burst a bunch of kernels, spilling the starch, always bad even with powder added.
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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I won't even soak seeds without a calcium additive now. The difference after the pc run and colonization is quite a bit. The grains look better after the pc run and break apart with ease after colonization. It's hard to explain really. I use the same amount of gypsum in the same size bowl and they break apart easy as well. I just like to use lime @ 5mills per 6qts. otf seed soak so the PH is a bit higher and the grains break apart with ease. Try it out! You'll love it.....
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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Sorry, but my edit function isn't working at the moment. But the reason I like to use lime is because I do tons of grain tranfers to other jars and the mycelium just rips through the new seed. After the colonization the seed is just as easy to break up with a spoon as it is stirring up a bowl of cereal. So nice with a lime additive IMO. Same as gypsum, but I prefer lime for a ph adjuster and for an easy colonized grain seperater both.... |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Mycophiliac Join Date: Oct 1971
Posts: 33
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ya thanks it is true, the wbs does break up alot easyer. I just made 5 pints of wbs soaked with lime. I am doing it to hope that my tric will stop killing my casings, since I have a huge problem with green mold and wbs. I belive it is because the wbs that I get is very cheap and very dirty. When I added lime to my casing layer the tric was cut by 75% but still had tric just less of it at about 25%. So I hope that lime in the wbs and casing will not allow the tric to grow at all. "chalk is a quick 'n easy source of 'gypsum'" What do you mean like chalk as in the chalk that my teacher at school writes with on the chalkboard? |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
You'll still get molds if your preparation technique is wrong. But the lime does help some. Just the other day I got my first mold in some seed for the first time in a long time. Try allowing your colonized seed to set in the tray for recovery for a couple of days before you case it. In other words, allow it to whiten back up well before casing it. Casing beaten up seed will up the chances for molds a lot.. | |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| I.Know.All Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 884
![]() ![]() | Wild bird seed help
I went to get some wild bird seed at the hardware store....they have MANY kinds. what specifically should i look for...or look for as to NOT get...most of the ones i saw had millet, crushed corn, and sunflower seeds with some stating 5% added and others have "added nutrient". Some help?
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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I've used every brand out there and haven't noticed a difference at all between them. Get the cheapest bag per pound to use. For example, I get 50# bags from Lowes for 11 bucks. Plain Wild Bird Seed. Some of it contains vitamins (Pennington brand). Those brands are fine to use also...
__________________ How can you have any pudding, if you don't eat your MEAT? |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
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That's a myth. Don't worry about removing the sunflower seeds. Sunflower seeds in minimal amounts like in WBS do no harm. If you choose to remove them, they will float up to the top of the soak water making them easy to scoop out. No need really..
__________________ How can you have any pudding, if you don't eat your MEAT? |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Embrace Your Damage Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,798
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I've seen a few people on other threads asking about problems with slimy-looking jars after PCing their WBS. I believe it is due to the cracked (crushed) corn content. I have made spawn from straight cracked corn many times and the slime removal is part of the prep. Basically, after simmering (not a rolling boil) cracked corn in a pot for about 30 minutes, a distinct slime will suddenly appear on the surface of the water. You'll know it when it happens. This stuff is bad. I turn off the heat and pour the slimy corn into a milk crate lined with window screen (not the metal type) and hit it with a garden hose at full pressure, stirring with my hands until all the slime is rinsed off. I throw in some lime and vermiculite until the mix feels right, then pack in bags and PC. WBS with cracked corn in it would likely benefit greatly from this rinsing if slimy jars appear to be a problem. Rinsing before cooking (whether in PC or simmering in a pot) does not remove the slime. Mixed WBS might not manifest the slime problem; I've only used straight cracked corn, but I have a bag of WBS in my kitchen I'm planning to use this weekend, and it has corn in it so I'll see. |
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| | #25 (permalink) |
| Mycotopiate Join Date: Jan 1973
Posts: 329
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I remove most suflower seeds that float to top and just toss them in the yard. I've noticed that the sun flowers seeds if left in the mix colonize slower. The smaller bird seed found in most grocery stores colonize faster, but the slightly larger seed found at Walmart (Pennington's) also works quite well and is cheaper per pound. I also remove any corn present when I strain and rinse after 24 hr soak. If a different brand other than Penningotn's, then I check the bag contents to ensure the least amount of corn possible. Course that's just me. Another tip, the dustier the bird seed, the more times I rise before the 24 hr soak. When the murkiness dissipates from the seed and water mix, go ahead and let soak. |
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| | #31 (permalink) |
| Mycophage Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 176
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Doc's is a good tek. If you have more time, you can just soak for 24-36 hours. (You can use the hottest tap water avail, and you get close to the simmer but without the chance of bursting seeds) Then let drain for an hour or so. Mix in a little wet and some try verm, and you should be set! Some people seem to have a problem with the simmer step in doc's. They do it too hard and too long which results in bust seeds that gum up the works.A five gallon bucket with a 5 gallon paint filter bag (home depot, a few cents) works PERFECTLY. You just put the bag in the bucket, add your seed, and go to work! Makes straining super simple too! Plus after drained, you can put it back in the bucket which makes scooping super easy. Good luck |
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| | #32 (permalink) |
| old hand Join Date: Mar 1970
Posts: 7,591
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | http://mycotopia.net/discus/messages...tml?1070729805 Mycota's bird seed tek. And the wbs that contains the "Bird Coat" is fine to use. It's mearly vitamins and minerals.
__________________ How can you have any pudding, if you don't eat your MEAT? |
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